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Creveta, Mallorca - approach and accommodation

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 Jimmy D 29 Oct 2009
Heading to Mallorca for New Year and planning on spending some time in Puerto Pollensa and climbing at Creveta. We won't have a car, so I was wondering

(a) if anyone knows of any apartments/accommodation for 2/4 people as near as possible to this crag

(b) whether there is a pleasent (i.e. not on a road) approach to the crag from Puerto Pollensa?

Thanks
 Simon Pelly 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D:

From dubious distant memory. Group of us hired a villa in Puerto Pollensa many years ago and climbed at Creveta. Without a car it would be quite a walk. Seem to recall driving up a large switch back hill side, parking near the top and walking off the back. Long time ago though. Somebody should know for sure as it fairly popular. I'll try an dig my guide book and notes this evening when back home
OP Jimmy D 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Simon Pelly:

Great - thanks
 catt 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D:

For Creveta I believe you have to approach from the parking by the view point on the way out to Formentor, as approaching from the other direction is not allowed by the landowner. It would also be quite a long, rocky and jaggy bush wander up from Pollensa even if you could find a path.

p.s. add a + or two to the grades of the classic 6a's and b's on the crag
JH 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D:

My wifes family has rental properties in Puerto Pollensa at a reasonable price. You can mail me via this forum for more information.

Here is a link to google maps showing the normal approach to Creveta

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=MA-2210&dadd...

At the first hairpin bend you can cut across country and go directly to the crag. However it is pretty rough and there's not much of a path so it is probably just as quick by the road. It will take about 40 mins to reach the crag.

Cheers, JH
OP Jimmy D 29 Oct 2009
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to Jimmy D)
>
>
> p.s. add a + or two to the grades of the classic 6a's and b's on the crag

Thanks

Yes, I've been to Mallorca once before and have experience of the rather unflattering grades!

In reply to Simon Pelly:
> (In reply to Jimmy D)
>
> Seem to recall driving up a large switch back hill side, parking near the top and walking off the back. Long time ago though. Somebody should know for sure as it fairly popular.

Experienced exactly the same last year.
OP Jimmy D 29 Oct 2009
In reply to JH:

Thanks - that's very helpful. Will mail you
 Simon Pelly 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D:

Yep. Looking at my guide book and notes pretty much remember it correctly. You'll probably either have or obtain a guide book, but to quote the approach from Rock Fax "Leave Port d'Pollenca towards Cap Formentor. The road winds uphill for 5km..." Here is a view point. You then walk down the back side down a faint path.

We messed around on main wall and found the grades quite stiff. Although this was my earlier climbing years. We spent the rest of our stay in Sa Gubia and the local coffee bars trying to dodge the rain

You can't get bored climbing on Mallorca but I'd recommend a car.

 Mattyk 30 Oct 2009
In reply to catt:

> p.s. add a + or two to the grades of the classic 6a's and b's on the crag

you've made me feel happier about myself!!
 Missile 30 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D: Just to add that Creveta doesn't get the sun until the afternoon. We were shivering in duvets in April until the sun came round. It can be a windy place up there.
 vincentvega 30 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D:

Agree with all the above points.

Fromthe view point where you park, you head back on youself following a pipeline. When you reach an old sign bear right and drop over the second col along. DONT drop over the first col as its very steep! the second col isnt to plesent either, a bit of scrabling needed.
It doesnt get the sun till later on as said above, and it does catch the wind so wrap up.

I found the grades all over Mallorca to be around a grade harder than the guide books.

HTH

Allan
 aquazepp 30 Oct 2009
In reply to vincentvega:

I concur with your walk in route, it took us about 30 minutes to get to the crag in late Sept. Got loads of little scratches from bushes and decent footwear is required.

Grades seem quite stiff.
 Andy Fielding 30 Oct 2009
In reply to Jimmy D: I had a car so can't really help. It's a nice crag with some good routes so well worth the effort of getting there.

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