UKC

NEWS: New E8 for Fairhead

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 UKC News 29 Oct 2009
[Andy Marshall inspecting The Dark Side before his successful ascent., 2 kb]Andy Marshall has climbed a new route on the Bingagapple area of Fairhead, Northern Ireland.

The Dark Side (E8 6c) takes the obvious orange wall right of the classic E4 Track of the Cat.
Commenting on the photography and climbing website Hillerscapes, Andy said:

"It's that sort of route that...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50080
In reply to UKC News:
Effort lad
 Aly 29 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News: Looks good. Out of interest was this done ground-up or after practice? I was just wondering if there was still a strict ground-up ethic at Fairhead or if things have changed a bit?
Good effort either way.
 DannyC 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Aly:

Hiya Aly,

After practicing for about a year, according to Craig's website. I don't know if there ever was a strict ground-up ethic at Fairhead (...there may well have been, I just don't know). There has always been a strict trad ethic however. The newer routes like Ricky Bell's E9 The Complete Scream would be quite an undertaking ground-up and would require an unusual rack too, including sky hooks, gaffer tape and blue tack Looks a cracking line. Gonna book a trip home for April I think, though I think this might be a bit (at least six grades) beyond me!

All the best,

Danny
 Aly 29 Oct 2009
In reply to DannyC: OK, cool. I just seem to remember reading an article in an old OTE with James Pearson trying the bolt-less direct start to Primal Scream (?) - since become The Complete Scream?? - ground-up as pre-practice wasn't 'allowed'. Maybe I'm just imagining things. Anyway, I must drag myself over to Ireland at some point, the place looks awesome.
Cheers.
 abarro81 29 Oct 2009
In reply to Aly:
There's not a ground up ethic for 1st ascents, since everything needs a good clean first (so I'm reliably informed). Though some stuff gets done after abb-cleaning and inspection but not pre-practice (Marshall did an E6/7 thing like that last year I think).
Complete Scream is indeed the Primal Scream direct start - E8, though I think Heason said maybe e7? Rick headpointed it - it's the final route on Underdeveloped if you've got that.
I've only done 1 day there but it's mega.

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