UKC

Dave Birkett has had a long association with Scafell and in this article he recounts, in words, images and video two of his winter ascents of Botterill's Slab, the latest last January.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1811

In reply to UKC Articles:

Also featured in this article is the video: Botterill's Slab by Alison Stockwell .... a reenactment of the first ascent, first climbed in 1903 by Fred Botterill.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I found the re-enactment video in particular really interesting. Looks like a well thought-out re-enactment.

It's an interesting point that I now habitually carry a long ice axe when summer climbing on the West Face of Aonach Dubh, as I find that many of the more neglected ridges there require the cleaning of turf or mud from holds. Perhaps in some cases not a great deal has changed.

In reply to UKC Articles: Fantastic. I've done one winter route in the Lakes in similar conditions and it was brilliant - a shame it doesn't get that blootered with snow more often.

Alex - hope your Aonoch Dubh face doesn't provide any rare flora habitat!

In reply to UKC Articles:
looks like good shape that day :O) soon be back

In reply to UKC Articles: I take it that the 3 similar photos are of the first pitch, but I can't recall a chimney at the top? But it was damp and very misty (and greasy) when we did it.

In reply to UKC Articles:

A massive contrast in conditions between Dave's first and second ascent! I wonder if he felt that the true "white-point" was still on the table..

In reply to Sean Kelly:

"We got 20m below the crag and it was out of this world. As soon as we saw Botterill's Slab we knew we had to do it. It's one of the best winter routes in the Lakes. During the summer it takes the slab, in the winter you stick to the corner and chimney."

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I don't think that helps much though, because as I remember it from a summer ascent about a decade ago there is a first pitch up short thrutchy corner crack thing. Then the second pitch which in summer you go up the eponymous slab a few metres left of the wet corner where the winter line goes. Then at the top of the slab there is a third pitch - I really don't remember that but I guess this is the chimney? I do clearly remember coming very close to falling off the top of the slab pitch when a foot popped though!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Usually at this time of year I'm keen to watch anything to do with winter climbing but I can't help thinking this clip is more of an advert for Dave's sponsers than entertainment for the masses. I've shot more interesting footage in the Coire Cas car park.

Get a grip UKC.

Ps Nae offence to DB he's a top bloke.

G

In reply to Lobby Dosser:

If you stripped all adverts from UKC or any print media, UKC and the print media wouldn't exist.

This is a grassroots video showing conditions, actually shot by Andy and Mary whilst Dave was climbing on a digital camera they found.

If you want free content: get used to adverts.

Mick

In reply to TobyA:

I did it in winter in three pitches: the awkward scramble up to the foot of the slab; the slab to the big platform at the top of the Shadowfax wall; the chimney and scrambling to the summit/plateau. The video looks like they belayed halfway up the slab pitch on the sloping ledge to the right of the slab.

ALC

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Mick

I've not got a problem with adverts if the clips justify it. Just that in this case I don't think it did.

As I said it felt more like an advert than entertainment.

G

In reply to Lobby Dosser:

I know what you mean, I much prefer all the other high quality, free, advert free videos about British winter climbing you get everywhere else. I mean, its three minutes long and I've far more important things to do with my time than spend it on UKC sub standard content.............

In reply to Tyler:

Apologies Tyler I didn't mean to offend the UKC fan club!

In reply to Lobby Dosser:

There is one?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I think Tyler might be your first member!