UKC

This feb we are staying in Algorfa for a week. The nearest climbing looks like Orihuela then Marin. Does anyone have any advise on these crags or the surrounding areas. I have the rockfax guide, but have heard and read a few stories of lost days due to sparse bolting / undergrading etc.

If theres a case for traveling out a bit further im up for it but would rather stay near. We would like to do a bit multi-pitch sport as we have never done it. Prob up to F6a or just under would be realistic for the group.

Any advice would be great.

In reply to mark237:
Marin is great for the lower grades, and many of the routes are 2 pitches. You should have a problem with sparse bolting or undergrading there (on the easier stuff). Forada probably isn't that far out of your way either?

In reply to Scomuir:

Is that a type error (I hope so) - and the bolts are ok at Marin? or will we have a problem?


cheers for recomending marin - it looks like a good place to start multi pitch

In reply to mark237:

I think he missed out a "not" - Marin is very well bolted.


Chris

In reply to mark237:
I did mean to type "You shouldn't have a problem with sparse bolting or undergrading there (on the easier stuff)".

Apologies for the confusion. No point in trying to be helpful if I am too lazy to check what i've typed to make sure it makes sense!

In reply to mark237:
The bolting at Orihuela is also excellent (up to 5+, can't vouch for anything harder). At least it was in the areas we climbed (there are several different sectors there).

In reply to Toreador:

The bolting was great from 5+ to 6c+ in the sectors I climbed at earlier this year.

In reply to mark237:

Marin fits the billl perfectly. And if you have a good day there, you'd also enjoy a trip to Sax (slightly further, slightly harder routes and slightly harder to find)

In reply to mark237:
Orihuela:
Pared Negra http://climbing.me.uk/Murcia/08%20-%20Orihuela/index.html
Callosa http://climbing.me.uk/Murcia/11%20-%20Orihuela/index.html

Marin:
http://climbing.me.uk/Murcia/13%20-%20Marin/index.html

In reply to mark237:

Hi I got back from that part of the world on saturday. Climbed at La Panocha last Wednesday it has a fantastic setting high above Murcia rock was interesting and most of the routes were well bolted there were alot of routes in that grade range, you'd have to have sunny windless days in feb as it is fairly exposed, worth a look if you've got time easy access aswell.Some of the routes are looking a bit well worn, Rockfax description of how to get there is ok we had no problem finding it.

Went to Sax 31/10/09 Penas del Ray, very nice lump of rock alot of 2 pitch routes in that grade range and seemed well bolted, 1st pitches can be long 2nd pitches usually easier and take you to the summit where you walk off
did Super directa 6a/5+ which was v good spoke to some one who just done Tupangato 5+ 5+ again v good. Did the 1st pitch of Elana del Gato 6a+ which is brilliant.
I updated the information on the approach as it has changed due to a railway being built.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1674
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1678

In reply to mark237: There is some decent stuff around orihuela for short outings and longer multipitch things. I reckon you could get up to forada from there in about an hour without too much of a problem. Lots of nice sunny easier routes there in a spectacular setting. If you fancy multipitch you should look into sierra de espuna and the leyva valley - amazing place and incredible rock wall. Even just going to the sierra espuna is worth it. There are a good number of easier routes too, all of which would be incredible i reckon. I second the bit about cresta de gallo near murcia - it isn't bad at all. Some good routes but they can be a bit polished. You can split a day though with a wander around murcia thought which is worth a trip - go to the market near the river for great fresh food in the morning.

In reply to mark237: Yes, as others suggest, plenty to go at in the area.
Derecha del Espolon at Pared negra is a good and easy intro into longer routes. Teo is harder but very good value and much less hasle to descend from .

Single and multi-pitch at Callosa is good. Some quite short and thuggish routes. La Cantera was a good longer route.

If you are in this area, then I agree Leyva just has to be a must. Carillo-Cantabella is pretty straightforward. Pitch 2 seems to be a bit harder than the rest. I think Carnaval s OK, but not done it. Fisura Carrillo-Vera is brilliant but a bit tougher.

In reply to John Postlethwaite:

Can be aided though (guilty as charged).

In reply to mark237: Oh yes, there is also some nice sunny single pitch stuff at leyva as well in case some of your party don't fancy the multi-pitch.
Enjoy.

In reply to mark237: why not bring a few nuts and get stuck in..................