In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> >
> If you are top-roping on routes equipped with the new lower-offs, please clip either the bolts or the ‘rams head’ with your own krabs/extenders - its good practice and definitely makes a big contribution towards the lifespan of the lower-off.
>
Mick,
I have a few questions about the new lower offs.
If the idea is to minimise tie-off type accidents, then there seems to be a conflict of advice.
If the leader threads the new lower offs without gear, then all re-tying issues are solved.
If you use a pair of draws at the anchor then someone has to strip them. This could then leave an inexperienced second, stripping all the draws off the route, and then having to re-thread the lower off, by either using a cows tail, removing the draws, and threading, or by threading with the draws in place, causing a bit of a snakes nest. If all the draws are stripped, fluffing it could be a deck.
Would it not be better that the lower off is threaded by the leader, thereby eliminating anything further than a fall off the last bolt, abd accepting that the lower-offs will have a limited life of x years?
I think that the owner / caretaker of the crag should advise on what they feel is acceptable practice, as you have suggested one thing, and has been slightly contradicted by the manufacturer.