UKC

Jon deMontjoye reviews the latest offering from Rockfax - France : Haute Provence.

"Page after page of great crag and action photos revealed crag after crag that I'd never seen before"

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2371

In reply to UKC Gear:

as I started to flick through the book (from the back towards the front – why do people do this – is it just me?)

No I think it is relatively normal and more ergonomic for right-handed people. The Japanese - who love to optimise everything for maximum convenience - organise books from right to left, presumably for that reason.

In reply to UKC Gear: I had a quick browse..the crag photo-diagrams are superb.
One main niggle why the scarecity of fluttery symbols@St Leger?
This is a crag I want to go to one day but saving for when i really feel I can do it justice.
In the apparently exellent local guide they describe many rts asbeing run outto very run out. One rt an americain I have met in the past Priania 8b he reckoned you could possibly deck on from a long way up.This is second info as I say I have not been there and Priania is miles out of my league.It would have been useful for more info here.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Nice review - I better crack on with Vol 2!


Chris

In reply to UKC Gear:

I'm sold. Infact just ordered my copy now!

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thought that was exactly what you were doing Chris. Have a nice sunny day... Jon.

In reply to witnessthis:

I think it's been rebolted relatively recently. I've only been there once but I found it Ok, and I'm a complete coward.

In reply to jon:

My copy has just arrived - excellent job by all concerned; lovely cragshots, great action pics, nice colour/printing throughout, tight binding - lovely.

Chris

In reply to UKC Gear:
Great review, thanks for that.

Are any multipitch routes covered at all?

Cheers
Gavin

In reply to DrGav:

There are loads of multi-pitch routes covered.

Orpierre, Sisteron, Bellecombe, Ubrieux, Saint Julien, the Dentelles and Buoux all have many multi-pitch routes which are given full coverage.

Full list of crags and routes here - http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1036

Alan

In reply to UKC Gear:
Certainly wetted my apetite for a trip there this spring, and a vast improvement on any other guides I've seen to that area. Anyone remember the Martin Atkinson guide to the south of France ?

But I did notice the lack of a top 50, and a general lack of descriptions. I presume that this is due to the fact that the data hasn't been in the database long enough to generate votes/comments, and that Adrian didn't manage to climb all the routes himself !

In reply to witnessthis: Can't say I experienced any runouts which were alarming, and I spent nigh on a month there last year.....

In reply to UKC Gear:

Santa Claus delivered my copy of Haute Provence on Christmas Day. I have been busy since then digging out all my old French guides and ticking off loads of 6's and 7's with out ever getting out of my arm chair. It has been a great trip down memory lane for me. Provence is where I started my Euro rock climbing experience. Christmas trips to Cavillion in 1990. Then Easter trips to Ceuse, Verdon and The Ardeche.

There are some favourite crags missing from this guide but then there are crags described that I have never been to and now feel the need to check out! Furthermore the photo diagrammes show off complex crags like Buoux in a refreshing new light. My old guide to Dentelles de Montmirail only has four routes ticked in it. It is complex area to navigate and this new Rockfax has made the access much clearer even including GPS references for the car parks.

Ceuse has had loads of new routes put up since I last bought the local guide. This chapter makes the crag look brilliant which is a pain because I think I am going to have to tackle that 45min up hill walk again!

There is loads of climbing covering a vast diversity of sport climbing from popular roadside crags like Volx and Venasque to high standard crags like St Leger. Old classic venues like Sisteron and Buoux are veiwed in a fresh light and if it is getter to warm then Ceuse should provide some respite.

At almost £25 it is a lot cheaper than buying lots of local guides to just climb four routes in 20 years!

In reply to UKC Gear:

I'm a week into using the book now. It's excellent - particularly the action shots

We were on Balme Rousse yesterday afternoon (In T-Shirts)
Boxing day we were at Combe Obscure (Shorts and T-Shirts)
The forecast is for very warm weather this week 15 degrees +

Bring it on!!

If anyone is thinking about a spring trip please see my Premier Post which gives details of our accommodation.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=387292

Cheers

Enty

In reply to north country boy:
That sounds fine,i only was wondering as there is an emphasis in the local guide.when there.Anyhow on arrival I know you can use ones judgement and talk to others.Sounds like a re-bolting job has poss been done on rts even.Good!

In reply to witnessthis:

Also, we tend to not spread heart flutter symbols around very liberally on sport routes especially if it is just due to spaced bolts at the top. For example, by many climbers' standards, all routes at Céüse and the Verdon would probably need a flutter symbol due to the bolt spacing. This would make a slight mockery of the system.

Alan

In reply to Enty:

I'm going to make a point of ticking all those Enty shot routes!

In reply to jon:

Definitely Petite Marie at Venasque - great route!
Some good pics of Audrey Seguy on it in my gallery.

Enty

In reply to Enty:

I guess Venasque would be a little chilly now?? But climbing in a tee shirt yesterday does really make me envious (or just climbing, period) - you've no idea what it's like here at the moment, just no idea!

In reply to jon:

Yes, Venasque will be chilly - but's been 15 here today so probably too hot in The Dentelles.

HNY!!!

Enty

In reply to Enty:
... but's been 15 here today so probably too hot in The Dentelles.

Oh noooooooo.......!

In reply to UKC Gear:

Good review and guide altho the inside cover shot of No Mans Land should really have been front cover

In reply to UKC Gear:

Got a copy just the other day and have to say congratulations to all concerned. Adrian Berry has done a brilliant job of giving us a sense of the variety and quality the area has to offer.

"The South of France contains the best sport climbing in the world, there's no 'some of' about it. While new sport combing areas regularly take the limelight as the latest 'must visit' destinations, seldom is the quality of routes found on the limestone crags of southern France matched"

Well - I've not been everywhere - but certainly true in my experience!

Nice one guys.

Regards
Paul