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How do you do it?

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 sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
I have been browsing the site for the last few weeks and have seen people are still out climbing. its so cold out there how on earth are you doing it?

I have been climbing just shy of a year and had 3 great outdoor trips, we called it our last trip in october as we thought it would be too cold later on. is there a trick to stop you're hands going numb within seconds?

Even indoors at the moment i am strugling with the cold.

Am i just being a wuss or is it actually cold out there?
 benj_d 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

Most rock tends to have better friction in winter, so thats a motivation..
 fishy1 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: Climb harder. Was discussing this with mate the other day, we figured when you're terrified of dying orclimbing where mistakes are serious, you don't notice the cold.
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
In reply to benj_d:

ok thats understadable i guess, never thought of that before.
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
In reply to fishy1:

i do agree when i am on a big overhang at my local centre i dont feel cold, i actually feel hot and sweaty but its my hands they go numb and i can no longer hold on. oh well i guess it is a case of trying harder.
Thanks.
 benj_d 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

Dont be afraid to wear an extra layer of clothing

Also to keep warm you could maybe make sure you start your session by warming up properly. You could also try bouldering rather than routes, that way you arent standing around while belaying someone.
 ark05 02 Jan 2010
- sport climbing and bouldering are good because routes are done quickly and you climb harder warming you up.
- wear loads of layers when belaying, standing around is when you get cold. - choose a south faceing crag and give the rock time to warm up (dont go first thing in the morning)
- climb through hot aches on easier climbs and they will go away
- get some of these and put um in your chalk bag http://www.chasesmith.co.uk/Camping/Camping_Accessories/sc1413/p2015.aspx
 ark05 02 Jan 2010
just saw that you are from down near portland... thats probs the best sport destination in the uk at this time of year.
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
In reply to adamki:

well thats where my few trips out have been perhaps i will have to give it ago then.
dan
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
In reply to adamki:
never thought of putting them in the chalk bag what a very simple yet genius idea. thanks.
 EZ 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

You should learn to keep a hold when you cannot feel your fingers. Be able to look at it and see it holding but not be able to feel it at all. It is about having faith in your ability. The cold only partly diminishes your ability to grip, it is your mind as often as not that says let go.
 Bulls Crack 02 Jan 2010
In reply to fishy1:
> (In reply to sdmi123) Climb harder. Was discussing this with mate the other day, we figured when you're terrified of dying orclimbing where mistakes are serious, you don't notice the cold.

Somewhat dubious advice!


Pick somewhere dry, sunny and still, invest time in warming up,wear warm clothes and don't hang about.
 stewieatb 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

Stick to south facing crags, avoid climbing before about 10:00 and only on sunny days (warms up the rock), wear fingerless gloves if possible/comfortable (except maybe when jamming), and wear more clothes. Warm up properly, use hand warmers where possible (in chalk bag is a good idea, as mentioned above). Somebody mentioned learning to hold without feeling, sounds good. Get some very thin trainer socks (ankle socks) to wear in your rock shoes. Other than that, man up.
 Jonathan Emett 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:
the cuttings is usually really warm on a sunny morning this time of year. wind is ok so long as it is from the north-west or thereabouts. There is also lots to get on there at your grade. have fun!
 jl100 02 Jan 2010
In reply to stewieatb: Why not wear proper socks with your shoes no point pansying about with it. As your feet are colder theyll be smaller so you can wear quite thick socks. I think manning up however is fine advice, once youve climbed through the first bout of hot pains your hands will be fine trying to prevent the first set of hot pains will just mean you have a generally uncomfortable days climbing throughout. The op sounds like a bit of a southern softie.
In reply to sdmi123: I just let my hands go totally numb, sit on the floor crying for ten minutes til the hot aches go away then they're fine after that.
 davross1986 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

heres a tip for you all. in this kind of weather, make sure you check the top out for snow as I lead a climb on higgar tor the other week and shit myself when I realised I couldn't top out because the snow was so bad.

the friction this time of year is awsome though and well worth braving the cold for. just take plenty of hot drink and food, and some gloves
 tommakin 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: Get on the gritstone.... ok it will still be cold and still hurt but cold grit is without a doubt the best climbing medium in the world. The awe expended after slapping (and sticking) big slopers will overcome the minor frostbite recieved.... simples
 tallsop 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: hava cuppa cement an harden up u quireboy :P x
Derbyshire Ben 02 Jan 2010
In reply to benj_d:

>Most rock tends to have better friction in winter, so thats a motivation..

Only really for bouldering. If you look at the dates of the FA and repeats of the conditions dependent harder grit routes they are mostly all in the Autumn, Summer and sometimes Spring.

 ark05 02 Jan 2010
In reply to jl100:
> (In reply to stewieatb) The op sounds like a bit of a southern softie.

thats what i was thinking... lol.. its colder in the north and we are still cragging
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: Just warm up properly, run around a bit before thinking about touching the rock, then get on and do a couple of moves, get off, then repeat with a few more moves ad infinitum till warmed up. Have a duvet jacket for between goes.

Was bouldering outdoors today in a wet parisellas and this approach worked fine for a good 3 hour bouldering session, just a shame about the seepage.
 stvredmond 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: im terrible in the cold. i bitch and cry about it when they go numb, then bitch and cry some more when i get the hot pains when a put my hands in my pockets, after that though they tend to sort themselves out.
 Choss Weasel 02 Jan 2010
You guys might be out cragging and bouldering in northern England but I'm not so sure thats viable up here in the central belt of Scotland, we have a lot of snow with more on the way. I wanted to get out bouldering but wasnt sure if its possible with the weather. Anyone been out bouldering or cragging in Scotland the last week or so?
 jl100 02 Jan 2010
In reply to Auchinstarry: Went the other day up to salisbury. Just about possible but only a good idea if your bored. My axes are broken too. Wouldn't reccomend it especially with this wet snow today.
 Mick Ward 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

We basked in sunshine for several hours today at a new crag on Portland. At one point, it was almost too hot!

Mick
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
Thanks for all the advice well ill just have to grin and bear it then as you all seem to think im a big softie. i will have to make an extra special effort to go out as soon as poss. ill gather the other pansies and take a trip down portland.
thanks again.
OP sdmi123 02 Jan 2010
In reply to Mick Ward:

NEW CRAG? where abouts? info please
kerrera 02 Jan 2010
In reply to Shaun L:
> (In reply to sdmi123) I just let my hands go totally numb, sit on the floor crying for ten minutes til the hot aches go away then they're fine after that.

I remember my fingers did that at the foot of the inpin and got my zippo out and fried them. Never bothered me again that day.

kerrera 02 Jan 2010
In reply to Auchinstarry: Just a general reply. Does Red Lead still exist? I'm guessing Crazy Paving is gone. Oh the days.
 chris wyatt 02 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123: It should be noted that if your core is warm, the hot aches will go. If your whole body is cold you have no chance. We had a great day n the gower today!
 Bobling 03 Jan 2010
So concensus is that after an intial bout of intense pain in the hands the worst is over? I guess that tallies with my experience - after seconding our first climb of the day I always have awful pain when hands denumbify, but then don't really notice it again (even though hands go through the freeze/thaw process several times after that).

Fingers tips are still a bit tender though even now 12 hours later!
 Choss Weasel 03 Jan 2010
In reply to kerrera: I've only been climbing for a year so havent done that one, I know the climb you mean though and I as far as I know it is still there and popular. Unfortunately theres been more bouts of stabilisation work at Auchinstarry, the council started up with the crowbars again about October and they are still at it. They seem to have concentrated on damaging the routes at the car park area and the last time I passed they were banging away with tools unfortrunately. I've done a lot of the climbs in the car park area of the crag and never encountered loose rock and in most folks opinions I've spoken to its just senseless vandalism. Unfortunately from what I've heard MCofS dont seem to be remotely interested in intervening to stop the destruction.
 Kafoozalem 03 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:
I was working a F7a+ at Anstey's Cove, Devon yesterday in full sunshine. At one point it was so warm we both climbed shirtless - despite frost lying in the shade the whole day.
Today I returned but it was overcast and windy. I tried to top rope the route in duvet jacket and hat but couldn't generate effective warmth in my fingers so I binned it. Study your forecast well with regard to wind direction and crag aspect -- you can sometimes experience "summer" in the depths of winter.
 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 03 Jan 2010
In reply to kerrera: thankfully red lead does still exist, and wonderful it is too however the juggy finishing arete bit is earmarked for removal, though whether it will go or not is another matter
 robw007 03 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:
Dont be too hard on yourself as I am sure quite a few of the people out in the snow are locals so its not too bad if the conditions are poor or you get too cold - we can just scarper down the local.
If youre coming from afar its different - you want to ensure you have the weather on your side.
I must admit though its been amazing getting out over the Christmas break and getting some bouldering done in the snowy conditions - so picturesque.
All the advice on hotaches etc - just gritting yer teeth etc etc is good - but only if you can jump off - wouldnt like to get really cold on a big route!
 Mick Ward 04 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
>
> NEW CRAG? where abouts? info please

If you park as for Cheyne Wears and go through the gate, after about 40 yards, there's a 'goat track' off to the left. (It's the second, after the gate.) This takes you on to a limestone pavement, just above a small quarry. Follow it leftwards, just around a corner, and the crag's in a dip, i.e. just left of the upper part of Cheyne Cliff. My mate can get there in one minute from the car; it takes me slightly longer!

It's called 'The Nook', only small but very friendly and sheltered from all but East winds. It keeps the sun when Godnor, Neddyfields Main, etc are in shade. Six routes from F3 to F6c and a lovely traverse - enough for a couple of hours fun (and a picnic).

There are also more than a dozen new routes in the Lost Valley, mostly at each end.

Have fun!

Mick
 jkarran 04 Jan 2010
In reply to fishy1:

> Climb harder. Was discussing this with mate the other day, we figured when you're terrified of dying orclimbing where mistakes are serious, you don't notice the cold.

Yes you do, it just makes it more frightening when your skin is so cold and waxy you've no feedback from your tips as to how good/poor a hold is.

OP: The trick is finding 'warm' crags, ones out of the wind that catch the sun then staying warm once you get there. If your hands are numb then pick routes to suit: cracks, easy ledge shuffling or slabs.

jk
 DreadyCraig 04 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:
I was at the cuttings in portland on saturday, sheltered from the wind and the sun was out, was almost like a spring morning. Once the sun had moved round and we were in shade we done a couple of routes at the bower area with the last of the sun. Great day out and not as cold as we had feared.
 GrahamD 04 Jan 2010
In reply to sdmi123:

You have to be warm before you start so that you are not climbing too slowly. Once you chill off it becomes a bit of a downward spiral. If you feel like you are getting cold, get moving on long traverses or easy solos until you are warm again.

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