UKC

NEW ARTICLE: War, Death and Rubber Climbing Shoes

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC Articles 11 Jan 2010
[Climbing in the 1930's, 2 kb]37-year-old climber Jamie Simpson's grandfather was a quiet man who never bragged about his achievements, rather unusually he kept them in a mysterious brown leather suitcase.

Living as Jamie did in Howtown, in the North Lakes, it was perhaps natural Jamie would become a climber.

But he never realised how much he and his grandfather had in common until his mother, inspired by his activities on the rocks, handed over a battered suitcase he remembered vaguely from his childhood...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2369

In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely, but 'sinks of integrity'?! Are we sure? I would suggest 'iniquity' is more likely.

jcm
 ChrisJD 11 Jan 2010
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

'sinks of integrity' - this may actually be a witty play on words
 john arran 11 Jan 2010
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I quite like the idea of a 'sink of integrity'. And maybe its high-achieving cousin the 'pinnacle of immorality'

I really enjoyed reading the article - refreshingly different. But I was struck by how out of place it was in a charmingly historical piece when reference was made at the end to 'sending' his project on Pillar. Maybe 'posted' would have been more appropriate ... to the front!
In reply to UKC Articles: Very interesting. Love this sort of thing.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 11 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Nice and a bit melancholic to me.

The first picture is at the Wainstones, Broughton Ridge (VDiff) I think and the shot entitled "Norway", is Romsdal with spike of Vengetind in the distance.

Chris
 Doghouse 12 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great read, really enjoyed that.
 Kafoozalem 12 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Wonderful stuff. I am a sucker for the period photo's too. Lets hope our informal pictures at UKC strike a similar chord with future generations.
Thank you for your comments.

Also a big thanks to UKC and Daniel Johnson for spending so much time re-working the article to make it more internet friendly. I think the original article was in three parts and totalled over 7500 words (it contained huge sections of original transcripts from the diary (The original draft was over 12,000 words which isn't internet friendly)

The diary had been dusty for a long-time, a project, and line of discovery unfolded of a very quite and unassuming man.

Many thanks

Jamie
 peter fetlar 12 Jan 2010
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons: well done .there must be a book in there,please.
 Bob Kemp 12 Jan 2010
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:
Great - most enjoyable. I was also pleased to see that the pernicious impact of orange peel on mountain environments was recognised even then.
 Greenbanks 12 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

This made lovely reading, full of sensitivity. I found it (in some ways) quite Proustian! (I may live to regret that comment!).

But thank you for publishing this; deserves a place in a mountain anthology I'd say.

Cheers
 marsbar 12 Jan 2010
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons: Thanks for sharing your family history
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Thanks for your comment.

This section of the article is a direct quote from the diary, and in all cases (unless the writing was illegible or obscured by beer, ketchup or dirt) the diary spoke for itself without interpretation of any kind.

In the diary there are many instances of rather odd writing, sharp Yorkshire wit, in jokes and old style grammar and word usage. The minute keeper was seemingly expected to keep a running commentary as the evening progress regardless of alcohol consumption.

On one occasion, a meeting was held below Napes Needle, where a jovial argument broke out, with all sorts of accusations being made. All dually recorded in the book. The weather on this day was very wet.

ttfn

Jamie
 Rampikino 13 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely piece and a wonderful insight. Thanks for sharing this.
 krikoman 13 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Nice one is there somewhere where we can read the full transcript, perhaps a pdf?

Cheers,
Mark
In reply to krikoman:

Something I am looking into, but will need to discuss if further with UKC. They have a historical pictures area, may be they would could organise a archive or something?

ttfn

Jamie
 AndyP 14 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
The hills are in your DNA jamie.
Take care
 Tom Last 14 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Smashing.
Removed User 14 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Really interesting
 sutty 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

A great read, had me laughing out loud at some of the comments.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Several people will be wondering why we had our Christmas meet in a brothel and sink of integrity though.
 DerwentDiluted 15 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

A Pleasure to read. Reminds me of my Grandfather (I too am 37) who was something of an early pioneer. He climbed in the 20's and 30's with Ernest Marples and Kirkus at Laddow, Roaches and Helsby before moving to Scotland and climbing a lot in Skye, Torridon and around Glasgow. He also climbed a lot in the Alps before the war and I have a postcard he sent from Zermatt of the Matterhorn in the late 30's just before climbing it. He died in 1984 but his Ice axe and well ticked 20's guidebooks are treasured possesssions. One day I'll get round to uploading the best of his photos.
 Arne 18 Jan 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Yup - the "Norway?" picture is from Romsdalen, and that definitely is "Vengetind" in the background. Just to confirm...
 FrJ 21 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Thank you. Lovely read.
 Chris Shorter 22 Jan 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Nice and a bit melancholic to me.
>
> The first picture is at the Wainstones, Broughton Ridge (VDiff) I think .........
>
> Chris

It is the Wainstones but it is Morning Wall if the climber has ascended the line of the rope below him.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...