UKC

can anyone confirm the grade for white slab on cloggy if you do the lassoo pitch - i've got a grade of E1 5a in an old paul williams guide but am stuck out in spain and can't buy a guide - it's given E2 5c here on the ukc logbook but would that be climbing direct without the lassoo? if anyone can clarify.......greatly appreciated.

In reply to railtong: It's bottom-end E2 either way. The lasso make little difference as it's probably scarier than freeing it.

It's got four long pitches that are each no more than E1 in isolation. So, if you climb it with a strong partner and have both done loads of the bigger E1s it will feel straight-forward. However, for others it has the potential to feel like a very sustained and demanding expedition.

In reply to railtong: It's E1 as there is very little on it more than 5a. In fact the first pitch is the most worrying for both leader and second and may just be touching 5b. Just can't agree with the previous comment: and you have to do the lasso as its an integral part of the route.

In reply to railtong:

We couldn't lassoo the spike so did it free (man) and is probably the second crux done like that (5b). As Gary says the opening moves are probably the real crux (tricky and poorly protected traverse) and the rest sustained 5a. Top end E1 5b or very bottom E2 5b.

In reply to Dark Mavis:


I've done it twice, once with the lasso and once without. I would have to agree with railtong's opinion above. It's definitely not a soft option at E1.

In reply to railtong: Done thrice seconded the lasso pitch once, lead it with and without lasso

E1 if you lasso the spike.

E2 if you go direct, reasonable steady for grade but very bold IIRC.

Grades are subjective though.

Remember to move left into Ghecko Groove so that you have to do the lasso move. Going direct up the slab is Banner's Variant and is a thinnish run out 5c I think.

In reply to railtong:

I recall using some rp's and small wires for the start which is bold, the rest was easy by comparison. The lasso ought to be mandatory.

J

In reply to railtong:

thing to remember, the second needs to be as competent as the leader for the first pitch is a traverse they could deck out on if they fall off.