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hello guys,
Sorry for the approximative "ingliche" but i'am a french climber living close to the verdon, 5 years ago we found and start (with some friends) to devellop a very nice cliff about sand/gritStone it was very interesting and original for us because very similar to the way you use to climb (some cracks) and so we decided not to bolt (yes!!! us frenchies can do that!!!) and we have now cleaned and bolt (only some belay) about 80 routes.
The cliff is close to the famous sector of bouldering of Annot and very easy to reach, it's high 150 m but much of the route are 1 or 2 pitch.
We did a small "hand made" guide book you can find in the small climbing shop "la dégaine" in the town of annot.
Most of the route are grade 6a to 7a but some of them are to 7c with psycho pieces.
If you're interested in seeing some pics (and movies about an english climber...) also for the news, we did a blog :
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/2009/11/index.html
I hope you will enjoy it and maybe leave stanage drying and come!!!
lionel catsoyannis
Sorry for the approximative "ingliche" but i'am a french climber living close to the verdon, 5 years ago we found and start (with some friends) to devellop a very nice cliff about sand/gritStone it was very interesting and original for us because very similar to the way you use to climb (some cracks) and so we decided not to bolt (yes!!! us frenchies can do that!!!) and we have now cleaned and bolt (only some belay) about 80 routes.
The cliff is close to the famous sector of bouldering of Annot and very easy to reach, it's high 150 m but much of the route are 1 or 2 pitch.
We did a small "hand made" guide book you can find in the small climbing shop "la dégaine" in the town of annot.
Most of the route are grade 6a to 7a but some of them are to 7c with psycho pieces.
If you're interested in seeing some pics (and movies about an english climber...) also for the news, we did a blog :
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/2009/11/index.html
I hope you will enjoy it and maybe leave stanage drying and come!!!
lionel catsoyannis
In reply to catso: Good effort man.
Looks great from the pictures!
Looks great from the pictures!
In reply to catso: good work, mon ami! Bonne chance et merci.
In reply to 8ace:
Hello, you need a longer rope, like 2 of 50m for the multi pitch and you can do a lot with a single of 70m. In some of the harder route it's better to have double rope to protect better (zig zag).
I forgot the movie of Alan Carne (maybe you know him, he's inglish):
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/filmperf/
If you're interested to come, contact us.
lionel
Hello, you need a longer rope, like 2 of 50m for the multi pitch and you can do a lot with a single of 70m. In some of the harder route it's better to have double rope to protect better (zig zag).
I forgot the movie of Alan Carne (maybe you know him, he's inglish):
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/filmperf/
If you're interested to come, contact us.
lionel
In reply to catso: Another thanks. It looks really impressive. In this picture: http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0128757ece19970c-pi there is snow in on the ground - do you climb there all year round? Does it get very hot in the summer?
In reply to catso:
Fantastic. Especially like the piss taking of the perception of the English, that we think you are all Hilti wielding maniacs, which of course you are!
Good work, nice to see that "our" ethics still have a place, and can sit side by side with bolted crags.
Fantastic. Especially like the piss taking of the perception of the English, that we think you are all Hilti wielding maniacs, which of course you are!
Good work, nice to see that "our" ethics still have a place, and can sit side by side with bolted crags.
In reply to NorthernRock:
Yes, we manage to climb all long the year because during summer you can stay protect from the sun in some gorges and during winter, the major part of the sectors are sunny.
It's funny because we (mostly me) are also "drill machine maniac" but these cracks were so pure to be bolted and a trip in indian creek/yose and stanage 10 years ago show us how it can be interesting to clim trad.
Last year some french (strong and famous) climbers started to bold the route we have already done with trad stuff, we had to distruct everythink but a lot of them still think that we are bastards!!!
That's why we want to promote the spot in order to protect it.
Thanks if you come
lionel
Yes, we manage to climb all long the year because during summer you can stay protect from the sun in some gorges and during winter, the major part of the sectors are sunny.
It's funny because we (mostly me) are also "drill machine maniac" but these cracks were so pure to be bolted and a trip in indian creek/yose and stanage 10 years ago show us how it can be interesting to clim trad.
Last year some french (strong and famous) climbers started to bold the route we have already done with trad stuff, we had to distruct everythink but a lot of them still think that we are bastards!!!
That's why we want to promote the spot in order to protect it.
Thanks if you come
lionel
In reply to catso:
This is a dream come true for me!
God forbid this will ever become bolted.
I'll almost certainly be heading down there in the next few weeks. Do you know when the climbing shop is open so I can get a topo?
Also - how much sun does it get?
Cheers
Enty
This is a dream come true for me!
God forbid this will ever become bolted.
I'll almost certainly be heading down there in the next few weeks. Do you know when the climbing shop is open so I can get a topo?
Also - how much sun does it get?
Cheers
Enty
In reply to Enty:
We got the Annot topo (sports) from the Tourist Shop in Annot, I would think they're likely to have some as well perhaps?
We got the Annot topo (sports) from the Tourist Shop in Annot, I would think they're likely to have some as well perhaps?
In reply to catso:
Excellent effort, well done.
This route in particular:
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
looks absolutely superb.
Incidently, I think it says a lot about the volume of rock in France that there are still these undeveloped crags about the place - such a crag in Britain would have been climbed out ages ago!
Excellent effort, well done.
This route in particular:
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
looks absolutely superb.
Incidently, I think it says a lot about the volume of rock in France that there are still these undeveloped crags about the place - such a crag in Britain would have been climbed out ages ago!
In reply to catso:
Do you realize what the result of this means? Thousands of funny looking people wandering around going "Corrrrrr!" and drinking all your beer!
Do you realize what the result of this means? Thousands of funny looking people wandering around going "Corrrrrr!" and drinking all your beer!
In reply to catso:
"Did you adjust the grades to account for trad protection?"
What do you mean???
We use a normal (french) way of grade, and we explain on the guide book how hard it's to protect and what you mostly need.
The inglish system is not easy to use, you need a very high culture of the climb to compair the route and we have not enough reférences.
From an inglish climber, some of the route are about E5/6 ( paola felici, Créme anglaise).
You cant't find anythink on the sportive guide book, only the short bolted route in the lower sectors (shipped but interesting)the tourism office is not very interested in climbing, but in honey, lavand...
The shop is always open but i think she's in hollydays for few days now.
If you buy the guide book (3 euros) don't forget to download the new routes from the blog. Sorry for the french language, if you don't understand well just ask by a mail.
lionel
"Did you adjust the grades to account for trad protection?"
What do you mean???
We use a normal (french) way of grade, and we explain on the guide book how hard it's to protect and what you mostly need.
The inglish system is not easy to use, you need a very high culture of the climb to compair the route and we have not enough reférences.
From an inglish climber, some of the route are about E5/6 ( paola felici, Créme anglaise).
You cant't find anythink on the sportive guide book, only the short bolted route in the lower sectors (shipped but interesting)the tourism office is not very interested in climbing, but in honey, lavand...
The shop is always open but i think she's in hollydays for few days now.
If you buy the guide book (3 euros) don't forget to download the new routes from the blog. Sorry for the french language, if you don't understand well just ask by a mail.
lionel
In reply to Alun:
Wow, fantastic.
Froggies, the ros bif's salute you!
> This route in particular:
> http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
> looks absolutely superb.
> http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
> looks absolutely superb.
Wow, fantastic.
Froggies, the ros bif's salute you!
In reply to catso: It looks superb, those cracks are far too good to bolt, good on you for keeping them trad.
As for grades, most British trad climbers will probably say they can climb at least a grade harder on bolts. For example, back home I climb around VS, which in terms of technical climbing difficulty is around French Grade 4. However on bolts I can climb 5/5+ because I don't lose time and energy placing gear, and because mentally bolts give me more confidence (they seem to be more reliable than trad gear, even though I know in reality they may not be).
The question is, have you taken account of this in your grading? For example, is N°4 "Gapencais's crack" actually 5+ in terms of technical difficulty, or is it more like a 4+ but graded harder to take account that it is trad and not bolted?
The British grading system takes account of the fact that although two climbs may have the same level of technical difficulty, one can be harder than the other because of problems with trad protection (and other factors). However, as you say, without knowledge and experience of this culture it can be difficult to apply.
As for grades, most British trad climbers will probably say they can climb at least a grade harder on bolts. For example, back home I climb around VS, which in terms of technical climbing difficulty is around French Grade 4. However on bolts I can climb 5/5+ because I don't lose time and energy placing gear, and because mentally bolts give me more confidence (they seem to be more reliable than trad gear, even though I know in reality they may not be).
The question is, have you taken account of this in your grading? For example, is N°4 "Gapencais's crack" actually 5+ in terms of technical difficulty, or is it more like a 4+ but graded harder to take account that it is trad and not bolted?
The British grading system takes account of the fact that although two climbs may have the same level of technical difficulty, one can be harder than the other because of problems with trad protection (and other factors). However, as you say, without knowledge and experience of this culture it can be difficult to apply.
In reply to Howard J:
Hy, we've been ther today, there's a new route about 7b an another 6C,the wether is so nice in this time.
For the grades, we use to cote as if we were climbing in top rope (only a technical info). so it's true that a 6a can be much much harder (and dangerous) as an other 6a because of the protections and the energy you need to spop/think/install the piece.
The other thing to say is that we you use to climb in crack it become easyer and french climbers use to climb mostly in overhang with pocket and tuffa than cracks.
As for us it's now ok but some friends of us are very dispointed when they can't move in a 6a (even top rope) and they use to lead 7b on bolted route.
lionel
Hy, we've been ther today, there's a new route about 7b an another 6C,the wether is so nice in this time.
For the grades, we use to cote as if we were climbing in top rope (only a technical info). so it's true that a 6a can be much much harder (and dangerous) as an other 6a because of the protections and the energy you need to spop/think/install the piece.
The other thing to say is that we you use to climb in crack it become easyer and french climbers use to climb mostly in overhang with pocket and tuffa than cracks.
As for us it's now ok but some friends of us are very dispointed when they can't move in a 6a (even top rope) and they use to lead 7b on bolted route.
lionel
In reply to catso: Have we got any basic info on the logbooks section with details of the routes? Couldn't find it myself.
In reply to Matt Maynard:
Yes, on the paper guide book (3 euros) you have the picture of all the differents places, the routes, the grade and what you need as gear.
We don't say all what you need but enough for you not to Fuc..d because you have not enough big or very small pieces.
In the hardest or dangerous pitch we tell more about what you need and sometime about loose block or things to care.
on the blog you've seen, i just leave the news, but to understand everything you really need the photocopy with the maps. I'm just making the new topo with all the last routes.
lionel
lionel
Yes, on the paper guide book (3 euros) you have the picture of all the differents places, the routes, the grade and what you need as gear.
We don't say all what you need but enough for you not to Fuc..d because you have not enough big or very small pieces.
In the hardest or dangerous pitch we tell more about what you need and sometime about loose block or things to care.
on the blog you've seen, i just leave the news, but to understand everything you really need the photocopy with the maps. I'm just making the new topo with all the last routes.
lionel
lionel
In reply to catso: Fantastic Work guys, looks a great spot
In reply to Whitty2012:
This route looks awesome! Where in the France is it?
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
This route looks awesome! Where in the France is it?
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6d8d25b970b-pi
In reply to catso: Looks brilliant, thanks for sharing the info. =o)
In reply to Owen W-G: There's a bolt at the top of that crag!
In reply to Removed User:
There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
lionel
There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
lionel
In reply to catso:
Brilliant!
> (In reply to Hardonicus)
> There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
> But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
> I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
>
> lionel
> There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
> But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
> I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
>
> lionel
Brilliant!
In reply to catso: It looks excellent!
In reply to catso: Ha Ha!
In reply to catso: I'm definitely going to have to try and visit this place over the summer, I was drooling before I even got past the first picture and now all I can think about it climbing this thing
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6dc93ce970b-pi
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/.a/6a0120a5eda2b7970c0120a6dc93ce970b-pi
In reply to chrisprescott:
this one is not so bad : "créme anglaise" 7A/B on the upper legde. 30m of happiness with a final dyno the feets 3m far from the last green alien...
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/2009/11/cr%C3%A8me-ang...
See you there...
lionel
this one is not so bad : "créme anglaise" 7A/B on the upper legde. 30m of happiness with a final dyno the feets 3m far from the last green alien...
http://tradannot.blog.sfr.fr/escalade-fissures-annot/2009/11/cr%C3%A8me-ang...
See you there...
lionel
In reply to catso:
Oh how I love climbing.....being literate in the delicious riddles of climbing lexicon that allow me to comprehend and nod knowingly to such wonderfuly obfiscating sentences such as:
'30m of happiness with a final dyno the feets 3m far from the last green alien'
- "what's that mean cries the lay man?!",
'Oh, just our special climbing way of talk!"
I reply with such confidence and pride in my studied hours leading to such powers of insight and deduction.
Oh to be a climber! ( ;
Oh how I love climbing.....being literate in the delicious riddles of climbing lexicon that allow me to comprehend and nod knowingly to such wonderfuly obfiscating sentences such as:
'30m of happiness with a final dyno the feets 3m far from the last green alien'
- "what's that mean cries the lay man?!",
'Oh, just our special climbing way of talk!"
I reply with such confidence and pride in my studied hours leading to such powers of insight and deduction.
Oh to be a climber! ( ;
In reply to Matt Maynard: I challenge someone to get a non climbing friend or partner to draw a picture with these details interwoven:
- 30 metres of hapiness
- a final dyno
- feets 3 metres far from the last green alien
Picasso?
- 30 metres of hapiness
- a final dyno
- feets 3 metres far from the last green alien
Picasso?
In reply to Matt Maynard:
Beuuu???!
I think that you're something like kiding me, just remember that i'am a french guy with a basical english from school.
If my words about "créme anglaise" were too much, i apologize. I'd like to show you a picture of the blog which was not easy to find.
Next time i'll say "una via veramente impegnativa, non pericolosa ma difficile da protegere tutta in cima alla parete. con una uccita particolarmete divertente" it's maybe easyer for you to undertand and less painfull as a romantic picasso???
Qué t'en penses mec???
lionel
Beuuu???!
I think that you're something like kiding me, just remember that i'am a french guy with a basical english from school.
If my words about "créme anglaise" were too much, i apologize. I'd like to show you a picture of the blog which was not easy to find.
Next time i'll say "una via veramente impegnativa, non pericolosa ma difficile da protegere tutta in cima alla parete. con una uccita particolarmete divertente" it's maybe easyer for you to undertand and less painfull as a romantic picasso???
Qué t'en penses mec???
lionel
In reply to catso:
Super site! Ca donne envie de rentrer en F pour grimper en trad!
Sur les photos, ca ressemble plus a du standstone qu'on trouve dans le Kent plutot que du gritsone de Stanage(mon dictionnaire traduit les deux comme etant du gres?). C'est sablonneux au toucher ou bien ca reste plutot dur? Ou alors c'est que les couleurs sont encore "jeunes" sur des falaises nettoyees recemment?
A quand des falaises calcaires en trad?!
Sandrine (originaire du 84)
Super site! Ca donne envie de rentrer en F pour grimper en trad!
Sur les photos, ca ressemble plus a du standstone qu'on trouve dans le Kent plutot que du gritsone de Stanage(mon dictionnaire traduit les deux comme etant du gres?). C'est sablonneux au toucher ou bien ca reste plutot dur? Ou alors c'est que les couleurs sont encore "jeunes" sur des falaises nettoyees recemment?
A quand des falaises calcaires en trad?!
Sandrine (originaire du 84)
In reply to catso: Everyone scoffs at this story but I swear it's true. Sitting at the bottom of the Dervish (a classic trad E3 crack on North Wales slate), we watched two climbers approach, get kitted up and start up the crack. So far, so good, except that the leader only had a rack of quick draws. After 20 feet (where it gets polsihed and thin) the leader retreated and we explained the difference between sport and trad climbing. Yes, they were French. And, yes, I know you can see from the bottom that there aren't any bolts....
In reply to catso:
Je crois au contraire qu'il applaudissait le lyrisme de ta description.
> (In reply to mattyork2)
> Beuuu???!
> I think that you're something like kiding me, just remember that i'am a ....> lionel
> Beuuu???!
> I think that you're something like kiding me, just remember that i'am a ....> lionel
Je crois au contraire qu'il applaudissait le lyrisme de ta description.
In reply to Pekkie: Excellent and (no offence french dudes) I believe you. When was this?
In reply to stewieatb:
My memory is not so good any more. Was it the sixties? No. The seventies? Nah. I know - the nineties!
> (In reply to Pekkie) Excellent and (no offence french dudes) I believe you. When was this?
My memory is not so good any more. Was it the sixties? No. The seventies? Nah. I know - the nineties!
In reply to catso:
In the early 80's I watched a French climber going for it on Lord of the Flies. He fell, about 2/3 of the way up and took a huge fall, to finish only about 10 feet from the bottom, upside down. He turned himself upright, and said with a huge grin and in the most outrageous French accent "A good one!" - a phrase which remains with me today, combined of course with the ridiculous accent.
In the early 80's I watched a French climber going for it on Lord of the Flies. He fell, about 2/3 of the way up and took a huge fall, to finish only about 10 feet from the bottom, upside down. He turned himself upright, and said with a huge grin and in the most outrageous French accent "A good one!" - a phrase which remains with me today, combined of course with the ridiculous accent.
In reply to catso:
Love it!!!
Enty
> (In reply to Hardonicus)
> There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
> But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
> I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
>
> lionel
> There's two bolts !!! we call it "relai" or belay....
> But if you want, don't use it, you can walk down (2h00) and take a taxi to come back to the village (15km)
> I'am almost sure that some friendly (french) climbers will send you back your cam by post...
>
> lionel
Love it!!!
Enty
In reply to Sandrine:
Ha ben alors voila, je me stresse à essayer d'écrire en anglais dans le texte (et lyriquement en plus) pour finir par etre lu par des francaises, c'est du propre!!!
pour répondre à ta question, c'est plutot du sandstone, j'etais allé à stanage par exemple et dans mon souvenir c'est du rocher assez dur avec des "pibble", à annot les petits galets sont rares mais ne sont pas trés solides.
La falaise fait plus ou moins 200m de haut, (c'est une curiosité géologique) et du coup, selon les couches le rocher est assez variable, il peut etre super solide et à grain fin (les partie en gris clair ou jaune vif avec des facettes anguleuses) parfois arrondi et trés soft dans les parties beiges voire carrément ingrimpable dans les parties qui n'ont pas subis d'erosion (sous certains dévers).
Ya un peu de tout par contre on a sacrément nettoyé, sinon, peu de chose aurait été vraiment faisable, la végétation pousse facilement dans le sud-est...
c'est aussi pour ca qu'on fait un peu de pub au secteur, le fait de grimper dans les lignes les maintient en état (et accessoirement les protége des psychos de la perçeuse avec qui on a déja eu pas mal de soucis!)
Pour mon envolée lyrique, je ne savais pas si c'etait du lard ou du cochon...désolé.
Pour ce qui est du trad en calcaire, c'est un peu à la mode, il y a évidemment pas mal de voies dans les massifs existants qui sont plus ou moins trad mais il faut avouer qu'a ma connaissance en france les falaises calcaires existantes ont plus ou moins été "exploitées" alors si c'est pour marcher 4h pour se retrouver au pied d'une falaise toute pourrie avec ton rack, ca fait pas trop réver.
Vers Nice, certains se sont mis à grimper dans les voies équipées en clipant des friends (en appellant ca du trad) mais je pense que tes collégues anglais seraient un peu mort de rire...
Ce qui est sur c'est que certaines voies n'auraient jamais du être équipée, revenir en arriére semble problématique.
Un site comme annot pourrait mettre le pied à l'étrier (pas pour faire de l'artif!!!)à des grimpeurs qui n'auraient pas passé le cap.
P'tain c'est plus facile en francais...
lionel
Ha ben alors voila, je me stresse à essayer d'écrire en anglais dans le texte (et lyriquement en plus) pour finir par etre lu par des francaises, c'est du propre!!!
pour répondre à ta question, c'est plutot du sandstone, j'etais allé à stanage par exemple et dans mon souvenir c'est du rocher assez dur avec des "pibble", à annot les petits galets sont rares mais ne sont pas trés solides.
La falaise fait plus ou moins 200m de haut, (c'est une curiosité géologique) et du coup, selon les couches le rocher est assez variable, il peut etre super solide et à grain fin (les partie en gris clair ou jaune vif avec des facettes anguleuses) parfois arrondi et trés soft dans les parties beiges voire carrément ingrimpable dans les parties qui n'ont pas subis d'erosion (sous certains dévers).
Ya un peu de tout par contre on a sacrément nettoyé, sinon, peu de chose aurait été vraiment faisable, la végétation pousse facilement dans le sud-est...
c'est aussi pour ca qu'on fait un peu de pub au secteur, le fait de grimper dans les lignes les maintient en état (et accessoirement les protége des psychos de la perçeuse avec qui on a déja eu pas mal de soucis!)
Pour mon envolée lyrique, je ne savais pas si c'etait du lard ou du cochon...désolé.
Pour ce qui est du trad en calcaire, c'est un peu à la mode, il y a évidemment pas mal de voies dans les massifs existants qui sont plus ou moins trad mais il faut avouer qu'a ma connaissance en france les falaises calcaires existantes ont plus ou moins été "exploitées" alors si c'est pour marcher 4h pour se retrouver au pied d'une falaise toute pourrie avec ton rack, ca fait pas trop réver.
Vers Nice, certains se sont mis à grimper dans les voies équipées en clipant des friends (en appellant ca du trad) mais je pense que tes collégues anglais seraient un peu mort de rire...
Ce qui est sur c'est que certaines voies n'auraient jamais du être équipée, revenir en arriére semble problématique.
Un site comme annot pourrait mettre le pied à l'étrier (pas pour faire de l'artif!!!)à des grimpeurs qui n'auraient pas passé le cap.
P'tain c'est plus facile en francais...
lionel
In reply to catso:
Nb a raison. Ils adorent!
Si tu as besoin d'aide pour traduire quelque-chose, fais-moi signe. Facile en Anglais, et je peux aussi faire un effort en Espagnol. Tu parles couramment l'italien? As tu aussi contacte la version Italienne de C2C?
Nb a raison. Ils adorent!
Si tu as besoin d'aide pour traduire quelque-chose, fais-moi signe. Facile en Anglais, et je peux aussi faire un effort en Espagnol. Tu parles couramment l'italien? As tu aussi contacte la version Italienne de C2C?
In reply to Sandrine:
Salut Sandrine, oui, mon italien est largement meilleur que mon anglais humoristique...
Je savais pas que C2C fonctionnait en italie, pourtant je grimpe avec pas mal d'italiens ils ne m'en ont jamais parlé, je vais regarder. Suis pas trop sur que ca les branches.
C'est super rigolo de voir que le même genre de post (le trad à annot) génére une 50aine de visite en france (C2C) et presque 3000 en angleterre.
Les francais sont quand même bien moins curieux que vous.
lionel
Salut Sandrine, oui, mon italien est largement meilleur que mon anglais humoristique...
Je savais pas que C2C fonctionnait en italie, pourtant je grimpe avec pas mal d'italiens ils ne m'en ont jamais parlé, je vais regarder. Suis pas trop sur que ca les branches.
C'est super rigolo de voir que le même genre de post (le trad à annot) génére une 50aine de visite en france (C2C) et presque 3000 en angleterre.
Les francais sont quand même bien moins curieux que vous.
lionel
In reply to nniff:
Ha! I was there too on that day - on Memory Lane. It was amazing - everyone heard the guy as the whole crag had fallen silent in awe at the fall. I'll never forget it.
Ha! I was there too on that day - on Memory Lane. It was amazing - everyone heard the guy as the whole crag had fallen silent in awe at the fall. I'll never forget it.
In reply to catso:
C2C a au moins 6 langues differentes. Mais je ne frequente pas le forum italien, donc je ne sais pas s'il est populaire.
Autant que je sache il y a de grandes classiques trad dans les dolomites?
Il me semble aussi que UKClimbing a un forum beaucoup plus vivant avec beaucoup plus d"'abonnes" que C2C? Dans les 20000 je crois. Peut-etre aussi qu'il fait quand meme plus sec de maniere generale en F et que les grimpeurs grimpent, plutot que d'attendre que ca seche et de tuer l'ennui sur un forum!
Au sujet du trad en F, quand j'en parle a des amis francais, il me dise que je fais de l'alpinisme! (de l'alpinisme dans le Dorset?!!). Ca m'a pris du temps ici, pour comprendre un minimum d'historique, l'ethique, les cotations quand meme bien compliquees et pedantiques et pourtant je suis sur place. Tu as aussi des gens ici qui refusent obstinement de grimper des voies sportives...Mais c'est vrai aussi une majorite (je pense) qui voyage et qui apprecie les coins d'europe, quels qu'ils soient.
Selon moi, il y a une place pour tout: l'escalade sport qui a permis de populariser la discipline et de pousser les limites pour les mauviettes comme moi, et le trad, plus puriste, plus ecologique, qui fait drolement plus peur, avec peut-etre un futur populaire justement pour ces raisons.
Juste un mot au sujet du site: il m'a fallu un moment pour trouver annot. Une petite carte serait peut-etre utile? A moins que tu ne souhaites pas voir arriver des hordes d'engliches!
Bel effort en tout cas.
C2C a au moins 6 langues differentes. Mais je ne frequente pas le forum italien, donc je ne sais pas s'il est populaire.
Autant que je sache il y a de grandes classiques trad dans les dolomites?
Il me semble aussi que UKClimbing a un forum beaucoup plus vivant avec beaucoup plus d"'abonnes" que C2C? Dans les 20000 je crois. Peut-etre aussi qu'il fait quand meme plus sec de maniere generale en F et que les grimpeurs grimpent, plutot que d'attendre que ca seche et de tuer l'ennui sur un forum!
Au sujet du trad en F, quand j'en parle a des amis francais, il me dise que je fais de l'alpinisme! (de l'alpinisme dans le Dorset?!!). Ca m'a pris du temps ici, pour comprendre un minimum d'historique, l'ethique, les cotations quand meme bien compliquees et pedantiques et pourtant je suis sur place. Tu as aussi des gens ici qui refusent obstinement de grimper des voies sportives...Mais c'est vrai aussi une majorite (je pense) qui voyage et qui apprecie les coins d'europe, quels qu'ils soient.
Selon moi, il y a une place pour tout: l'escalade sport qui a permis de populariser la discipline et de pousser les limites pour les mauviettes comme moi, et le trad, plus puriste, plus ecologique, qui fait drolement plus peur, avec peut-etre un futur populaire justement pour ces raisons.
Juste un mot au sujet du site: il m'a fallu un moment pour trouver annot. Une petite carte serait peut-etre utile? A moins que tu ne souhaites pas voir arriver des hordes d'engliches!
Bel effort en tout cas.
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
I think I was about to head off up Left Wall, along with Tim Sparrow of this parish. There can't many physically harmless falls as spectacular as that - he's probably been mentally scarred ever since though.
Mind you, there was the guy who went the full length of the slab on Valerie's Rib and off into the trees, and walked away. Now that was spectacular.
> (In reply to nniff)
>
> Ha! I was there too on that day - on Memory Lane. It was amazing - everyone heard the guy as the whole crag had fallen silent in awe at the fall. I'll never forget it.
>
> Ha! I was there too on that day - on Memory Lane. It was amazing - everyone heard the guy as the whole crag had fallen silent in awe at the fall. I'll never forget it.
I think I was about to head off up Left Wall, along with Tim Sparrow of this parish. There can't many physically harmless falls as spectacular as that - he's probably been mentally scarred ever since though.
Mind you, there was the guy who went the full length of the slab on Valerie's Rib and off into the trees, and walked away. Now that was spectacular.
In reply to catso:
Merci Catso pour les excellents renseignements de "trad" à Annot. Ta joie pour l'escalade est formidable et je te souhaite bonne continuation. A t il des fissures larges et surplombante à Annot?( parce que j'aime beaucoup, regarde un de mes projets sur mon steviehaston.blogspot.com pour une idée)
Yl y a quelques années je me baladais à annot et j'ai vu des murs enormes, tu as fait quelque chose dedans? Alora merci Stevie
Merci Catso pour les excellents renseignements de "trad" à Annot. Ta joie pour l'escalade est formidable et je te souhaite bonne continuation. A t il des fissures larges et surplombante à Annot?( parce que j'aime beaucoup, regarde un de mes projets sur mon steviehaston.blogspot.com pour une idée)
Yl y a quelques années je me baladais à annot et j'ai vu des murs enormes, tu as fait quelque chose dedans? Alora merci Stevie
In reply to Sandrine:
Oui, bien sure c'est le lyrisme que j'applaud.
Les mots peint un veritable image, je trouve Sandrine.
C'etatit ni une blague, ni une critcisme.
Je vourdrais vraiment visiter ca falaise a paques.
Oui, bien sure c'est le lyrisme que j'applaud.
Les mots peint un veritable image, je trouve Sandrine.
C'etatit ni une blague, ni une critcisme.
Je vourdrais vraiment visiter ca falaise a paques.
In reply to Matt Maynard: No 2 - 'C'est le milieu de "Fanny" - sounds it might be of interest to English (male) climbers?
In reply to all
that looks a great crag.
ca l'air vraiment chic chez les annottians. je pense que si je suis dans le region prochainment je vais fare un tour la bas.
that looks a great crag.
ca l'air vraiment chic chez les annottians. je pense que si je suis dans le region prochainment je vais fare un tour la bas.
In reply to Stevie Haston:
Hey Stevie,
ça vaut largement le déplacement. Pour l'instant il n y a pas de voies très « durs » proprement dit, mais le site est très beau, les voies (trad) très classe, originales, et il reste un beau potentiel à exploiter. Nous devons etre reconnaisants à « catso »(Lionel) et certains autres grimpeurs du coin pour un travail énorme et une optique vraiment visionnaire du potentiel « trad » de ce site. Parmi plein d'autres c'ést bien un de ses très beaux oeuvres! Merci Yo!
Carney. :
Hey Stevie,
ça vaut largement le déplacement. Pour l'instant il n y a pas de voies très « durs » proprement dit, mais le site est très beau, les voies (trad) très classe, originales, et il reste un beau potentiel à exploiter. Nous devons etre reconnaisants à « catso »(Lionel) et certains autres grimpeurs du coin pour un travail énorme et une optique vraiment visionnaire du potentiel « trad » de ce site. Parmi plein d'autres c'ést bien un de ses très beaux oeuvres! Merci Yo!
Carney. :
In reply to nniff:
There are froggies who climb trad even in very bolted areas like Chamonix. Just take the cracks next to the bolted ones.
There are froggies who climb trad even in very bolted areas like Chamonix. Just take the cracks next to the bolted ones.
In reply to catso: J'espere que c'est plus interressant que Indian Creek!
In reply to Stevie Haston:
Bonsoir Stevie,
C'est effectivement dans les falaises que tu as vu que nous passons notre temps.
Comme le dis Carney (qui es-tu donc???) il n'y a rien de "trés dur" mais quelques trucs en bon 7 pas faciles à protéger, de quoi serrer les fesses quand même. Sinon, en effet la majorité des voie est autour de 6b/c.
Ton projet dans le toit est vraiment original et impressionnant, bel effort!!!
C'est en france ou ailleurs??
lionel Catsoyannis
Bonsoir Stevie,
C'est effectivement dans les falaises que tu as vu que nous passons notre temps.
Comme le dis Carney (qui es-tu donc???) il n'y a rien de "trés dur" mais quelques trucs en bon 7 pas faciles à protéger, de quoi serrer les fesses quand même. Sinon, en effet la majorité des voie est autour de 6b/c.
Ton projet dans le toit est vraiment original et impressionnant, bel effort!!!
C'est en france ou ailleurs??
lionel Catsoyannis
In reply to Sandrine:
Sorry for the map but it's too much for my computer capacities.
Just very easy, Annot is a very small village (like médieval)at one hour from Nice.
There's a small (but very slow) train wichgo directly from the airport to Annot and a faster bus.
From annot you don't really nned a car, the crag are at 10min from the bar.
Hotel, gites, camping, supermarket, climbing shop there.
Send a mail on the blog if you need info.
lionel
Sorry for the map but it's too much for my computer capacities.
Just very easy, Annot is a very small village (like médieval)at one hour from Nice.
There's a small (but very slow) train wichgo directly from the airport to Annot and a faster bus.
From annot you don't really nned a car, the crag are at 10min from the bar.
Hotel, gites, camping, supermarket, climbing shop there.
Send a mail on the blog if you need info.
lionel
In reply to catso:
Ciao;
Dans le 7 c'est déjà dur avec les coinceurs...on essayera de passer cette année car c'est très joli je pense. Malheureusement mon projet est aux U et en plus c'est trop dur....alors je cherche quelque chose de plus facile( rire) et en france.
Merci A+ keep it up
Stevie
Ciao;
Dans le 7 c'est déjà dur avec les coinceurs...on essayera de passer cette année car c'est très joli je pense. Malheureusement mon projet est aux U et en plus c'est trop dur....alors je cherche quelque chose de plus facile( rire) et en france.
Merci A+ keep it up
Stevie
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