UKC

Adam Ondra's brilliance shows no sign of slowing down as he enters the later years of adolescence, reports karin.com.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51613

In reply to UKC News:

I'm just waiting for the world's first 9C from the lad ......

In reply to UKC News:

Punter...

In reply to UKC News: Whilst what he's done is very impressive, I can never quite understand the astonishment that he's managed to onsight more than one route at a high grade in a day.

All he's done is gone out climbing and led 4 routes. Admittedly they're very hard routes and not many people can do what he does but I'll bet there are loads of us who have had days where we've led 2 pitches at our onsight limit and two pitches a grade easier in a day.

If you take 4 attempts to redpoint a pitch in a day, then that's surely got to take more out of you than if you onsighted it.

In reply to UKC News: would be good if he came to the uk to do some trad routes

In reply to grizz: also be interesting to see what he reckons of hubble/the big bang/violent new breed. i reckon he'd only get up one of them...

In reply to portlandclimber:

we should have a UKC members money pot; say a couple of quid each, with which to fund UK trips for the euro-uber-wads, challenging them to climb certain routes in good style and experiencing british climbing at it's best. sort of like BMC youth and international meets i guess, but we'd get to choose the who, where, what and how.

In reply to UKC News: It's his birthday on Friday. Wonder what he's doing?

In reply to Michael Hood:

I think you underestimate things somewhat. He's barely past puberty and he has days like this which for the vast majority of elite climbers would be a lifetime's dream. Has anyone EVER onsighted 2 8c and 2 8b+ routes in one day? I honestly don't know.


Lol.


Whether its hard for him or not is neither here nor there. What would someone have to do to astonish you then? Do lots of redpointing?

In reply to Dom Whillans:

He's probably not great at cracks....
Warm up on The Vice, Gobbler's Roof at Harborough, followed Ray's Roof. If he gets all them, then chuck him on Kyrie Eleison (forgetting to mention that it hasn't been freed of course).

In reply to jonny2vests:
we'd get to hold him to what he said at the start of the "progression" film. and i dare say he'd wipe the floor with us brits.

I disagree. It can sometimes take me 4 redpoint attempts just to get into the swing of it , and properly warmed up, where as one proper hard onsight can leave me completely wasted for the rest of the day.

If someone's onsight limit was 7c, I think they'd be pretty pleased if they onsighted 2 in a day, and did a couple of 7b+'s too. In fact I'd say that almost never happens

In reply to GDes:

"If someone's onsight limit was 7c, I think they'd be pretty pleased if they onsighted 2 in a day, and did a couple of 7b+'s too. In fact I'd say that almost never happens"

Agreed.

In reply to GDes:

All of which leaves you with the impression that he is nowhere near his limit yet ...

In reply to GrahamD:
I'm looking forward to him putting a long concentrated effort into a route/ boulder problem like Sharma has........
James

In reply to UKC News:

If he comes to the UK, I'm pretty sure he will crush our hardest routes just as he has crushed elsewhere.

If he's onsighting Font7C+ cruxes in the midst of F8c routes I don't think he'll have too much trouble making quick work of our hardest routes.

I cannot wait until he spends some sustained time on a project. Maybe we'll see F9c. Also I think he may be capable of a F9a onsight. I don't know which would impress me more. I'd certainly like to see it on a video!

In reply to Michael Hood: The level of O.S is newsworthy surely?There are still only a few folk who can O.S at this level.Noone in the UK.
Incidentaly I think Ramon Julian has rp 2 9as in a day not so long ago.
Different streams same river...

In reply to UKC News:

he's currently in siurana trying sharma's golpe estado. first day on it today and he pissed the crux (the one sharma tries about a hundred times in fanatic search vid). he was just setting up for his first proper redpoint when i had to leave for work. gutted i expect it'll go this week. watch this space...

In reply to witnessthis: I suspect that this level of O.S. might well be Ondra's normal day out climbing when he's not pushing a red-point project. There was a similar one reported nearly a year ago. He probably tries to on-sight anything below 9a - in a similar way to us punters just turning up at Stanage and climbing a few routes.

Is it newsworthy? - unless it's pushing standards up (i.e. harder than anything done before) then this will depend on how much other news is around (just like the normal news). I don't object to it being in the news, as I said before I'm just suprised that we're "astonished". Impressive, yes, but this is the level that Ondra operates at and we should be used to it by now.

Or maybe it's just the tone of the reporting that I feel is somehow wrong and I'm just becoming a GOM :-|

In reply to RockSteady: For some time now I get the feeling that he is somehow holding back from trying to do as hard a RP as he possibly could.

This may be because of time constraints (is he still at school?) or that he may not like working routes for too long. Or maybe he's strategically decided to not force things too much either before his body's finished developing or to avoid injury/burnout and get a longer climbing career.

It will be intereting to see just how good he gets as he goes into and through his 20s.