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At the moment I'm working High Speed Imp Act at Lower Churnet. This is part of my goal of my first Font 7A/+. I've heard however that this is a 'soft touch' - still hard for me and I'm enjoying working it anyway so I will continue.
However, I'm looking now for something to work afterwards. A nice solid 7A/+ (no soft touches) which is a nice technical puzzle, requiring good technique rather than being easily solved with power alone.
Preferably near Leek so I can put the time in and have quick bursts on it, but will travel for a really nice / classic problem. Oh yeah must be in good condition at the mo too!
However, I'm looking now for something to work afterwards. A nice solid 7A/+ (no soft touches) which is a nice technical puzzle, requiring good technique rather than being easily solved with power alone.
Preferably near Leek so I can put the time in and have quick bursts on it, but will travel for a really nice / classic problem. Oh yeah must be in good condition at the mo too!
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz): h s I a is prob more 6c really.try sleeping in the flowers at the roaches also down and right is too drunk.a good 7a.or the slabs on spring boulders.tier drop over at ramshaw is good.stall arete at gib tor?
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
S&M at the newstones is a corker.
S&M at the newstones is a corker.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz): Classic Arete up on the crag near Burbage South boulders, quality little problem
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
I can only recommend soft touch ones I'm afraid, cos otherwise I wouldn't be able to climb them!
Have you tried this one? It's within walking distance of High Speed Imp Act, but much more tricksome in nature and requires no power.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41209
Triptych Groove and Too Drunk at the Roaches require a bit more grunt, but they're not too bad when you've figured out the sequences.
Alas I don't find High Speed Imp Act anthing like 6c. However, I arrange my feet I end up with far too much weight on my right arm, the left hand has nowhere useful to go and the top looks smegging miles away!
I can only recommend soft touch ones I'm afraid, cos otherwise I wouldn't be able to climb them!
Have you tried this one? It's within walking distance of High Speed Imp Act, but much more tricksome in nature and requires no power.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41209
Triptych Groove and Too Drunk at the Roaches require a bit more grunt, but they're not too bad when you've figured out the sequences.
Alas I don't find High Speed Imp Act anthing like 6c. However, I arrange my feet I end up with far too much weight on my right arm, the left hand has nowhere useful to go and the top looks smegging miles away!
In reply to GrantB: remember tho font 6c is still english 6b.if u can't lock ur right arm using the pocket there a mono for left hand.top is a jug so slap at it.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz): baldstone trav! Brill prob,not powerful just abit pumpy when u as unfit as I am.last moves not hard but is when pumped into next week.nadin trav similar grade but more powerful on the shoulders.touch on the backside of hen cloud is a tough one,bit highball 2.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
I thought Humpty Dumpty at Gentleman's and The slopes problem at Wrights Rock (right of the undercut) were good problems around the 7a/+ mark and reliant on a bit of technique rather than plain burl.
I thought Humpty Dumpty at Gentleman's and The slopes problem at Wrights Rock (right of the undercut) were good problems around the 7a/+ mark and reliant on a bit of technique rather than plain burl.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Help the Young at Stanage, fair at the grade and involves a little technique... brilliant line!
Help the Young at Stanage, fair at the grade and involves a little technique... brilliant line!
In reply to Pown:
Can't think which one you mean - any more clues?
A couple of my favourites (East Peak though) are Sloper Traverse - very technical, and Satin (soft 7a, highball slab) both at Stanage.
> (In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz)) Classic Arete up on the crag near Burbage South boulders, quality little problem
Can't think which one you mean - any more clues?
A couple of my favourites (East Peak though) are Sloper Traverse - very technical, and Satin (soft 7a, highball slab) both at Stanage.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Cool, quite a list! Excellent thanks for the replies, I'll have to have a look at them and choose one to work. I especially like the sound of the Churnet / Roaches area ones as I can just pop up for a quick hour and have a play!
Cool, quite a list! Excellent thanks for the replies, I'll have to have a look at them and choose one to work. I especially like the sound of the Churnet / Roaches area ones as I can just pop up for a quick hour and have a play!
In reply to mark s:
That's good to know as I was a little concerned about that lock off!
> there a mono for left hand
That's good to know as I was a little concerned about that lock off!
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
shouldn't this be in the bouldering thread? anyway does this problem at the churnet actually top out? i find the area a bit lacking in the aesthetics required for classic status. what about the usual peak suspects like Green traverse, trackside etc?
shouldn't this be in the bouldering thread? anyway does this problem at the churnet actually top out? i find the area a bit lacking in the aesthetics required for classic status. what about the usual peak suspects like Green traverse, trackside etc?
In reply to Morgan Woods:
mediocre, atechnical
trackside
not 7a, 6b+ish for average height, and rubbish
> (In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz))
what about the usual peak suspects like Green traverse, mediocre, atechnical
trackside
not 7a, 6b+ish for average height, and rubbish
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Have you tried the gutter underneath Valkyrie at the roaches lower tier, i think thats 7A, good body tension problem to start and a tough last move...or maybe I'm weak...
Have you tried the gutter underneath Valkyrie at the roaches lower tier, i think thats 7A, good body tension problem to start and a tough last move...or maybe I'm weak...
In reply to 2weak4owt:
It is a bit eliminate though I assumed (no right heel/toe hooks on the right hand rib which is part of the same block?) forcing you to throw face on over your head with LH and catch the layaway off balance holding a barndoor?
It is a bit eliminate though I assumed (no right heel/toe hooks on the right hand rib which is part of the same block?) forcing you to throw face on over your head with LH and catch the layaway off balance holding a barndoor?
In reply to Pown:
would that be attitude inspector? wickid dyno poblem that!
> (In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz)) Classic Arete up on the crag near Burbage South boulders, quality little problem
would that be attitude inspector? wickid dyno poblem that!
In reply to tallsop:
no it would the problem called classic arete.
no it would the problem called classic arete.
In reply to steve webster: I think I know the one - but I've never quite worked out what you're meant to do for the "7a+" grade. I've climbed it starting down on the front, rocking over the right and finishing up the left. This was about 6b+. The BMC guide calls this bit of rock 'guppy arete' and then describes various problems that seem to make less sense than the above. None of which would be 7a+. Anyone actually think there is a 7a/+ on there?
In reply to Jon Stewart:
What are you on about?
It is this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28766
As the original poster said, it is 'on the edge', not on the boulders.
What are you on about?
It is this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28766
As the original poster said, it is 'on the edge', not on the boulders.
In reply to Stig: Yeah think that's it. As I said, it's called 'Guppy Arete' in the BMC guide, at V1 on the left, and V2 on the front/right. It's got a step in the ground at the start of the problem, and if you climb it from above that, on the left hand side of the arete, it's about V1. The way I climbed it, starting below the step, it had a cool move rocking around onto the front face. I remember a long move on the front face to reach a jug on the arete, and then I finished up the V1 (left) side. This was about 6b+. I don't see where the 7a+ goes - especially since the front (RH, slabby side) gets V2 in the BMC guide (but that seems like a massive sandbag). The BMC also has a sit start at V6 - is that the 7a+ "classic arete" or what? (But if it's a V6/7 sit start to a V2 arete, it doesn't sound very classic to me...).
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I think I'll give that one a miss for now then, want a good solid, non-disputable, technical 7A/+
I think I'll give that one a miss for now then, want a good solid, non-disputable, technical 7A/+
In reply to tallsop:
17 years since I did that, and still memorable.
Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier is soft-touch but high-ball too.
> (In reply to Pown)
> [...]
>
> would that be attitude inspector? wickid dyno poblem that!
> [...]
>
> would that be attitude inspector? wickid dyno poblem that!
17 years since I did that, and still memorable.
Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier is soft-touch but high-ball too.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
I'll second Marks suggestion for the Baldstones Traverse. Really good problem that needs technique as well as some power an endurance (and it stays dry in the wet)..
I'll second Marks suggestion for the Baldstones Traverse. Really good problem that needs technique as well as some power an endurance (and it stays dry in the wet)..
In reply to Derbyshire Ben: what more could you ask for
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz): might be a churnet day for us today as its wet in leek.you welcome join us.
In reply to mark s:
Ah would love to but I'm stuck at work! I'll be down there tomorrow though if it's dry.
Ah would love to but I'm stuck at work! I'll be down there tomorrow though if it's dry.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Loving Baldstones Traverse, great recommendation. Managed to do all but two small sections on first attempt this morning but I think those two sections will need quite a bit of work from me. Great problem, I think I'm going to make this my next goal. I'll have a look at, and play on, the others mentioned here too.
Loving Baldstones Traverse, great recommendation. Managed to do all but two small sections on first attempt this morning but I think those two sections will need quite a bit of work from me. Great problem, I think I'm going to make this my next goal. I'll have a look at, and play on, the others mentioned here too.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz): clever skin at baldstones shouldm fit the bill
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
C3PO and the slab to the left? technical smearing - will feel easy in good conditions.
C3PO and the slab to the left? technical smearing - will feel easy in good conditions.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Clever skin is nails for 7a and you dont wanna try that top-out on your own! Try the stuff at Calcutta buttress on the upper tier.
Sleeping with the flowers, and the nice trav gets 7a with the dirty 'black hole start' Then there is Dirtnap, which would be a good first 7b
Clever skin is nails for 7a and you dont wanna try that top-out on your own! Try the stuff at Calcutta buttress on the upper tier.
Sleeping with the flowers, and the nice trav gets 7a with the dirty 'black hole start' Then there is Dirtnap, which would be a good first 7b
In reply to Souljah: the op asked for a solid 7a/+ and from my experience clever skin fits that bill
In reply to beastofackworth:
He also asked for something in good condition, the top-out to CS is gopping wet and covered in lichen, and more recently snow!
CS is a brilliant problem tho, but like most of Boysen's stuff hard for the grade.
He also asked for something in good condition, the top-out to CS is gopping wet and covered in lichen, and more recently snow!
CS is a brilliant problem tho, but like most of Boysen's stuff hard for the grade.
In reply to Souljah: not been for years so didnt know about the lichen,or thewetness
In reply to Souljah:
Some good pebbles have snapped off since the first ascent. It used to be much easier.
> (In reply to beastofackworth)
> CS is a brilliant problem tho, but like most of Boysen's stuff hard for the grade.
Some good pebbles have snapped off since the first ascent. It used to be much easier.
In reply to Souljah:
I climbed CS on 1st May 1994 ( the day Ayrton Senna died) and pebbles had gone then including the big one that had broke in half and left a sharp edge.
I climbed CS on 1st May 1994 ( the day Ayrton Senna died) and pebbles had gone then including the big one that had broke in half and left a sharp edge.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Best 7a/+ I ever did was 'Stall' at Gibb Tor!! No need for a spotter...dry in most weather...Great little project!
Best 7a/+ I ever did was 'Stall' at Gibb Tor!! No need for a spotter...dry in most weather...Great little project!
In reply to flatpack:
Just been over to have a look at that (well first thing this morning anyway). It does look fantastic and is now on my list!
> (In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz))
>
> Best 7a/+ I ever did was 'Stall' at Gibb Tor!
>
> Best 7a/+ I ever did was 'Stall' at Gibb Tor!
Just been over to have a look at that (well first thing this morning anyway). It does look fantastic and is now on my list!
One of the best 7A+ probs in the Peak has gotta be All Quiet Direct @ Burbage North IMHO.Quite subtle and knacky til you suss it and with a nice easy highballish finish.Silk Start @ Stanage too,no power needed,just a bit of grit savvy...
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