UKC

Hi

Can anyone reccommend the best routes at Ceuse between grades F5 and F6b+? Also, any F6c/6c+s that wouldn't be too difficult to work during my week there?

Cheers!

Chris

In reply to Chris Ellyatt:
Super Mario 6c long stamina fest
Harley Davidson very polished but good 6b+/6c
Canabis ou nutella steady 6b

For something harder try Javanaise 7a - a good redpoint project perhaps which is much easier with beta after a couple of sessions.

If you can get someone to lead yo up one of the 6c+/7a routes on the grande face like I did that will be a memorable exeoerience.

I spent four weeks in ceuse four years ago and two and a half weeks the following year.

I diagree with the individuals who say it is not a a good crag to go to if you climb less hard than 7b+.

I think that climbing in Ceuse, surrounded by very motivated people who you could talk to enthusiastically about your sport after a long day up on the hill, whatever grade you are clibing, was a very enriching experience in my climbing life.

Whilst the climbing at these grades most probably is not as good quality as the routes all the wads are tearing down (and you will be none the wisere to this anyway unlike them) - it is difficult to have a poor time. If you actually look in the other direction from the imposing limestone for a fleeting moment, you will alaso find that your hour slog up hill has left you somewhere really quite beutiful as well.

In reply to Matt Maynard:


really it should be 6b in the guidebook anyway i agree on the 6c.
oh and at 6c then why not go for "zagreb" much better route imho.

my super mario experience:
-three years ago i climb it somewhere near the end of the trip, in the shade, as a "warm down". Since i had a solid 6c/7a onsight level at the crag during that trip, i had no big problems, but i have this memory of finding it a bit of a bitchy route, something i could have an embarassing time on, on the wrong day...

-last year, after a shoulder injury and a move (for geographical reasons) from mainly rope climbing to a strict font&plastic regime, i get back on the same route. It's in the sun, it's my first route of the day, i have this feeling it's a very bad idea but anyway there's some friends' draws in so let's have a go.
I stop twice and refuse to commit on the last sketchy move (slopey hands slopey feet, runout, all polished).
In this same trip i've been regularly cruising ananda (7a) as a warmup when i was in cascade, and ticked privilege (7c+).

so, my friendly advice is STAY AWAY FROM THAT SANDBAAAAAAAAG!!!




a sector with some nice easier pitches is grande face, not everything is in the guidebook since most of them are new. The only problem is that the rock is sharp!
The 7a single pitch starting with a small roof is really soft, more 6c really (could change in the next guidebook?).

There are some new-ish easy pitches in between face de rat and thorgal, those as well not reported in the topo. However thay do not seem great and they are in full sun all day...

dalles de capeps and golots a gogo are mostly easy stuff, but friends reported sketchy, polished, runout, sandbagged.

In reply to Chris Ellyatt:

I think Le vol du Philipus (6b+) was the only route I did there in that grade range that was especially memorable. Zagreb was good at 6c, otherwise you may have to look at the 7a's before the real quality kicks in - try La Reine des Pommes (7a) at Point sur l'infini, very good and certainly no harder than a lot of the 6c/6c+ at Ceuse.

Btw I dont remember Super Mario being much cop.

In reply to Chris Ellyatt: We visited there for 2 day trips while based in Orpierre a couple of years ago and climbed at the level that you are asking about. Unfortunately I don't remember the names of the routes we did--and don't have my book accessible. I do know that we found that the routes at Thorgal were mostly desperate sandbags, especially at the starts. Maybe that was because it was our first day and we were feeling the effects of the walk-up---DON'T take the "direct" path from the upper parking lot!!!!--and the altitude, but even accounting for that the routes still seemed damn hard for the grades. Our second visit was to Demi-Lune and we found that a much more reasonable area--other than the crowds. Despite comments from others, we found the easier(lower 6s) routes there to be very worthwhile, maybe a few a little sharp at the top. Yes, undoubtedly there are equally good, or even better, routes at those grades elsewhere, but the ambiance at Ceuse surely makes those routes special. As often in climbing it is the "total package" that makes certain climbs stand out beyond the climbing itself.

In reply to Chris Ellyatt: hi chris to be brutally honest there isnt much to do at 5/6b that isnt a warm up or sandbag . but if your pushing 6c/7a then its paradise.