UKC

anybody been there this week

In reply to DIRK DIDLER: yes, west side well scoured and cornice free on Wed. Climbed Organ Pipe Wall and The Smirk, both in good condition. Other teams on were on Doctor's Dilema, including the other team with came with us who bled all over it ...

East had a mega cornice at the top.

In reply to DIRK DIDLER: there yesterday, fat ice all over the place. avoid the east sector as advised. everything right of central guuly getting climbed.

In reply to DIRK DIDLER:

It was busy. Get there early or late. We started up Doctor's Dilemma about 2.30 and had it to ourselves.

We weren't the bleeders btw.

In reply to robertmichaeladams:

I thought it was big aswell but apparently not.
More about conditions here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=397145&v=1#x5722427

I was behind a team that trailed a wee bit of blood after a fall not sure if it was the same people someone mentions here.

Cheers.

In reply to DIRK DIDLER:
A strong youth stuck up an assumed new route on Wednesday - crazy icicle/mixed action over by The Smirk. Might be one of the hardest things there, there's certainly not much harder on main sections.

Details will follow somewhere, no doubt.

Bruce

In reply to Hay: I didn't see it getting led but saw the second do it and it looked alot of fun!

In reply to Hay:

The Grin (VI,7), by Greg Boswell, Tim Blakemore

In reply to Hay:


Fontanalia VIII,9 (Macleod, Muir 2005) takes the thin crack through the steepness next to Captain Hook and probably takes the award, unless the recent Macleod/Turner offering on the lower tier is graded harder.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Yep, that's the 'not much' I guess - it's not come in this year I don't think?? I know a couple of folk who were keen to have a poke at it.
The unnamed Turner/Dave Mac thing is VII/7 on the low tier I think - there might have been a strong team down on the low tier yesterday too.

Good report of The Grin on Greg's blog:
http://gregboswell.blogspot.com/

Strong performance from the youth....

Bruce

In reply to Hay:

I see on Greg's blog it says there was ice at the back of the groove.

I'm glad you said that Dave; because it looks completely black!

In reply to hexcentric:

Stirrer!

That is in....and who is Dave??
Are you getting your threads muddled?

Get back to work.

Bruce

In reply to DIRK DIDLER:
Was in at Udlaidh today, pretty busy I thought with most teams on the western side, there were drooping cornices on the left hand side of the eastern sector. It was pretty mild with quite a bit of running water audible and visible. Ice we found was holding up quite well but snow/ice was mushy. Teams seen on Peter Pan (I think), Juniors Jaunt, Doctors Dilemma (busy), White Caterpillar and West Gully, don't know about stuff further round. Now if anyone in the area could tell me what that large banging noise was about 1pm, I'd be grateful. I say 'in the area' as I'm not sure if it was from the coire.

In reply to drmarten: might that be the Gold Mine?

In reply to baldie:
Yes, that would make sense. That'll do me, thanks.

In reply to baldie:
I guess the definitive answer will come from anyone who was on the Eas Anie at the time! No idea of it's nick but could see it from the road driving home.

In reply to drmarten:

I also wondered what the bang was, couldn't see any debris comming down from cornices, etc.

Did Smirk and Organ Pipe Wall yesterday, very wet (too wet), decided wasn't worth doing anything else, back home in time for dinner.

Been a great season in Southern Highlands, comming to a close now I think, time to go to the Ben.

Stuart

In reply to baldie: Thats sounds good to me, I s**t my pants when I heard it! Thinks we need a bit of freeze to save some of the routes, I got the impression that they were really beginning to thin out. The unnamed? Ice fall to the far west was getting soft and hollow/wet but still climbed well.

In reply to Stuart the postie:
Yeah, it's been great. Funny how a couple of days can make such a change, it was well frozen on Wednesday when did Organ Pipes and Juniors Jaunt.

And as you suggested....everyone went to the Ben yesterday...heaving. The lower ice is getting very soggy there too, but a good freeze tonight will sort it all out!