UKC

hello

what belay device are you using and do you like it?

(n.b. not looking at grigri-style devices as I already have one of those)

Finally about to replace a Wild Country Variable Controller that I've had since I started climbing and which looks like it could do with replacing, so I'd like your thoughts on what you like. I'm looking for a good all-round device.

Thanks in advance
TC

In reply to Tall Clare:

I use the BD ATC XP Guide. Really good, does everything. Fat/Thin ropes, 2 levels of friction and has the extra loop for the autoblocking function which is really handy for multipitch/winter etc.

In reply to Tall Clare: BD ATC Guide. Me think its a great device. Thin enough for a skinny rope, not the best on large ropes mine. Works well in guide mode and also in normally belay mode

* Also a good colour it comes in

In reply to Tall Clare:
Petzl reverso 3.
Works with ropes from 7.5 upwards, easy to unload if used in auto mode, lightweight..
Been using this since it came on the market and am very happy with it's performance.. I use it for trad, winter, alpine, sport and down the wall..
Spot on all round. Get one, you wont be disapointed.

In reply to Tall Clare:
Petzl reverso 3 - great to use in all situations it's designed for.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Of my various ones, the only two I routinely use are GriGri and an old style, unsprung Stitch plate. In both cases I like them because they're grabby.

Probably not a lot of help in choosing a new one.
jk

In reply to Tall Clare: I use a Petzl Reverso 3 for most stuff and love it especially when using a direct belay. I've also just bought a Mammut Smart. It's costs a lot less than a Grigri, has no moving parts, is smaller and weighs half as much. I tried it last night and was most impressed.

Al

In reply to Tall Clare: You can borrow my Reverso on Sunday if you like.
But try not to break it.

In reply to control freak:

Cheeky fecker. Can I try it on Friday?

In reply to Tall Clare:

Petzl Reverso 3

+1

It's ace. Dead light and very versatile. It's got the guide mode and can handle pretty thin ropes. You can get them for about £25.

In reply to Tall Clare:
I like the VC, in fact I have 2

In reply to Tall Clare:
BD ATC XP - but not tried Reverso 3 which is basicaslly a copy anyway.

In reply to Tall Clare: The reverso 3 is lighter and less bulky than the BD.

Al

In reply to Tall Clare: +1 Reverso 3. Love it

In reply to Tall Clare: Of course, I forgot about Friday. Don't drop me though.

In reply to Tall Clare: This is the BD ATC XP http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN31029

This is the BD ATC Guide http://www.theoutdoorshop.com/showPart.asp?part=PN31031 - similar to the Reverso 3

In reply to control freak:

for that, I'm tempted!

:-P

In reply to 5cifi:

oops - of course. Sorry about that.

In reply to Tall Clare: BD ATC xp

In reply to Tall Clare:

Reverso Mk I, irrelevant as you can't get them now.
Have used Mk III and like it a lot.
I also have a DMM Bugette which I like but it's not ideal for 10mm+

In reply to Tall Clare: I've been happily using the original Petzl Reverso for years, but just upgraded to the Reverso 3 since I want to start using 8mm ropes for Winter/Alpine stuff.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Petzl Reverso 3 for me too. Great device, less bulky than the BD equivalent, and actually manufactured by DMM if I remember correctly - bonus!

In reply to Tall Clare:

+1 ATC XP. fat or skinny ropes. just does the business with no fuss.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Get another Variable Controller - I still think they are the best for general use on normal ropes.

In reply to Tall Clare: i like the reverso 3. i have used it for winter, trad, sport, at the wall and for ascending ropes and i think its pretty good. its also very light

In reply to Tall Clare:

Reverso 3. Got two of them. Great.

In reply to EZ:

I'm hearing a Reverso 3 refrain emerging loud and clear!

Control Freak, I *will* be borrowing yours on Friday to experiment with.

In reply to Tall Clare: Well I have 3, reverso 2 and 3 and a DMM Bud (my second)

I like the reverso 3 but tend to leave the Bud on my harness so it gets most of the indoor work, which is most of the time.

THe reverso 2 is hardly ever used.

In reply to Tall Clare:

I'm a fan of the classic ATC, perfect smooth action and you don't have to remember which way round it goes. I've tried others and find that the ATC guide and various VCs tend to be a bit too grabby when feeding out rope and in some abseil situations.

Have to say I'm tempted by the new reverso though

In reply to Different Steve:

I think with my VC, because it's been so heavily used over the last eight years, and pretty much always in the same way, it's very clear which way round it is by the very polished metal showing on various bits of it...

In reply to Tall Clare: I'll be buying a reverso 3 next time my missus decides to chuck my belay plate off Gimmer. I use a bug at the moment which is the best non-guide device I've come across.

In reply to Tall Clare: Noeud d'amarre on an HMS

In reply to Tall Clare:

I've had an ATC XP (non-guide) for a good 5 years now and find it great. I got it before the "guide" version came out. I find it excellent, smooth, but with plenty of friction and great for all sorts of different sizes of ropes. Looking at the reverso 3, I would suspect there is naff all between the XP guide and reverso 3, however, if you don't want/not going to use the guide feature, then the smaller ATC XP is probably the more sensible option.

Tim

In reply to Tall Clare: original reverso. bit slick for abseils unless you're expecting it.. Replacement will prob be reverso 3!

In reply to tradlad:

In reply to Beaker:

One of the things that originally sold me on the ATC Guide is that it's got more metal than most to absorb abseiling heat. Although I bought mine pre-Reverso 3 days and don't know which I'd get if buying again.

In reply to Tall Clare:

I really like my ATC guide for climbing on half ropes, but I don't like using it with fat single ropes. I think the original ATC is much better with single ropes.

I was originally going to buy a Reverso 3, but that seemed even worse with single ropes.

In reply to Tall Clare: BD ATC XP. I liked it so much, I have 3 of them. dont like anything else

In reply to Oceanic:

hmm, my single is a Beal Flyer (iirc - it's quite old now) and I think that's 10.5mm. Wall ropes are often gonna be a bugger no matter what the belay device, unless the belay device is a body belay <ahem>

In reply to Tall Clare:

IMO there's no contest. The Simond Toucan is the ultimate belay device.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Trango B-52, but you won't get them in UK.

In reply to timjones:

Agreed

For thin ropes (less than 8.5 mm) the Simond Cubic is the one.

JH

In reply to Tall Clare: ATC guide, because it properly locks in guide mode which the reverso doesn't, it is heavier and can therefore take up more heat when abbing and is a pound cheaper

In reply to Tall Clare: I have BD XP Guide. Great device. However the Petzl Reverso 3 is lighter and from what I can tell the same thing. Do your self a faver and get a device that you can use in guide mode for multi pitch climbing.

In reply to Tall Clare: I've used the ATC Guide for years and it is great for everything, but not so long ago I found an Reverso 3 and it does everything as well as the Guide and is half the weight. I'd recommend it for that reason alone.

In reply to Tall Clare: BD ATC XP for the most part, Mammut Smart belay device for thick, single ropes or for more sport stuff.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Still using a HB Sheriff that I got yonks ago. Don't think you can get them now though which is a shame as they're pretty good. After reading all the praise heaped on the Reverso MkIII I might have to try one out now. I've got a bugette too but not really used it enough yet to have formed an opinion. Anyone else got and using one?

Sorry, been abolutely no use. Guess it's still too early

In reply to Tall Clare:

I've got a reverso III, which is really good, but the winner is still my Simond Cubik for cragging.

In reply to Tall Clare:

How often do people with an ATC Guide or Reverso 3 ACTUALLY use it in guide mode?

Genuine question. I am sure it depends on who you go climbing with and where and can see that it would speed things up when multipitching as a 3. But the rest of the time - do you do this as a matter of course or is it just a 'nice to have'?

In reply to Tall Clare:

I only briefly tried the reverso 3 so can't comment properly on that, but IMHO is the ATC my favourite - it isn't too grabby, and I can feed out rope fast, which is appreciated by the climber. I'm always struggling with other belay devices, whatever make they are.
Disadvantage is that it can't be used in guide mode, so a reverso 3 could be better there- thinking of getting one myself actually...

In reply to Tall Clare:

Oh, what I forgot to add - nearly all of the very good climbers I know have two devices - one for top-roping and red-pointing, and one for attempts where everything matters and they need to pay out rope as quickly as possible.
Most use an ATC (or similar - a tube without teeth) for the latter.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Reverso 3 users.

The videos i've seen show it being used in guide mode with half ropes. Can you use this mode with a single 10 or even 8.5mm rope? Or would the off centre downward pull prevent the rope dropping into the 'v' and locking properly?

In reply to Tall Clare: I just have a Bug - simples

In reply to Tall Clare:

If you want to keep it all very simple go and light go for the Petzl Verso.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

I use my reverso 3 in guide mode on almost every pitch when multipitching. I like the fact that I can check the guidebook, have a bite to eat etc while bringing the second up. You just have to remember to keep pulling in that slack!

I've used it in guide mode on a single rope with no issues as well.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:


Almost all the time if I have led, but here we are often belaying on either bolts or large trees so impact forces are less of an issue. You can eat and take photos with much less worry that way.

In reply to Tall Clare:

+1 on reverso 3.

In reply to TobyA: Also great if you're second lacks a bit of confidence as you can move around a bit more to get a better view of what they're up to.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Petzl reverso 3.

Awesome bit of kit. Robust, practial, light and stylish.

It has seen me through multipitch trad, sport cragging, winter adventures, and twice weekly visits to the wall.

Does it all!

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

I used it on my trip to majorca, when i did a 7pitch trad route. Also great on the multipitch sport routes (where you have a nice robust and handy anchor point.)

In reply to Tall Clare: I've got an ATC Guide, but I'd buy the Reverso 3 if I was replacing it for the weight saving.

In reply to highaltitudebarista:

I'll have a go with the Reverso 3 tonight. It sounds like the way forward!

Thanks everyone!

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

About every time I go climbing... which usually means on multi-pitch limestone in Austria with bolted belays.

I've got a Reversino for use with my 8mm ropes, and a Bugette as a reserve in my rucksack.

Alex

I generally use a Grigri. However, I use the Reverso 3 when certain partners bring out skinny ropes. To be honest though belay devices are much or a muchness imho. (I know many will disagree)

In reply to plexiglass_nick: I use guide mode at every opportunity but only when the belay is sound enough of course. I find that I can stand and take in much more comfortably and it enables me to be able to take photos, put on/take off layers etc. more safely. I have used it with single ropes but I have just bought a Mammut Smart which will now become my first choice for sport and indoors.

Al

In reply to various:

thanks all, sounds like I might be missing a trick. might consider trying it in the future.

In reply to Tall Clare: DMM Bug on a DMM HMS. The simplest, the best...

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Guide mode is brilliant, especially if the last pitch took it out of you, since it locks off the mode when you take in, so is less effort, especially if the second needs a tight rope or falls off. It also gives you a bit of opportunity to change gloves/eat/drink/take a photo, or if the second is climbing fast, it's easier to take in fast.

But I don't use it for every belay, only where I can get an unquestionably bombproof anchor in a suitable position just above my stance (if the angle isn't right, it can be hard to pull the rope through). If you're swinging leads, you also have to secure your partner, take them off belay, and the reattach the ATC/Reverso to your harness in 'regular' mode.

So guide mode isn't always possible, or worth the extra effort; but when it is, it's really worth it.

In reply to the sheep: I have two VCs too!

In reply to Tall Clare: I use the BD ATC-XP and am very pleased with it

I used a reverso 3 tonight and really liked it so that's what I'll get. Thanks everyone!

In reply to Tall Clare:

For winter and mountian routes I've a reverso III, but need to play with it more. Plain old ATC for the wall and cragging.
Keen on the simond cubik to replace the ATC when the time comes

In reply to Tall Clare: I'm just loving the one I'm currently using, the name of which escapes me.

In reply to Tall Clare:

Its all about the Reverso 3!!

In reply to Tall Clare:

Left-field choice - Metolious BRD, lot of friction so easier to hold, asymmetric so locks up under a fall, 'radiator' fins so it doesn't get too hot on long abseils!

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/brd_belay_rappel_device.html


Most folks who have borrowed mine have been converted.


Chris

In reply to Tall Clare
reverso 3, it's good

In reply to Tall Clare: the guide's the best,if you try the reverso 3 and the guide side by side the guide is smoother on fat or skinny ropes,a little heavier i think but works much better.
cliff...

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Seconded Chris, an excellent tool

In reply to Tall Clare: I think the Simmond Toucan is the best.

Takes a wider range of rope sizes than Reverso. Works well with big fat single rope or skinny doubles - 7.5mm to 11mm. Also the lever makes it easier to lower your second off if they have a fall while it is set up in guide mode.

Thanks everyone - as I mentioned further up the thread I'll be purchasing a Reverso 3.