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![[James McHaffie onsighting Isis is Angry, on Yellow Walls, Gogarth, 4 kb]](http://img.ukclimbing.com/t/93350.jpg "[James McHaffie onsighting Isis is Angry, on Yellow Walls, Gogarth, 4 kb]")
James McHaffie had a good weekend on Peak grit last week.James flashed the classic gripper End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar and also the Burbage test-piece Balance It Is (E7 6c).
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=52441
In reply to UKC News: Impressive to say the least.
In reply to UKC News:
Was Balance it Is climbed on Wednesday? I think I saw that along with a cameraman filming it..
James
Was Balance it Is climbed on Wednesday? I think I saw that along with a cameraman filming it..
James
In reply to UKC News: No loss of form over the winter, great stuff James.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
How many E7s has he flashed now? It must be over 40? Definitely one of the most impressive climbers in the UK and on top with his ethics. Spot on.
How many E7s has he flashed now? It must be over 40? Definitely one of the most impressive climbers in the UK and on top with his ethics. Spot on.
In reply to manker:
Watched JM in Pembroke a few years back casually onsighting E4s and E5s one after the other, with trainers and huge first aid kit on the back of harness. Seemed to be having a stress free trip, was v inspirational as we perspired up E1s with much swearing and fear. His ladyfriend was having fun too prusicking up all the routes on second.
Watched JM in Pembroke a few years back casually onsighting E4s and E5s one after the other, with trainers and huge first aid kit on the back of harness. Seemed to be having a stress free trip, was v inspirational as we perspired up E1s with much swearing and fear. His ladyfriend was having fun too prusicking up all the routes on second.
In reply to manker: Yeah, I'm looking forward to the article when he reaches 50!
In reply to UKC News: Typically understated stuff from Britain's most consistent onsighter/trained killer/ballroom dancing champion.Quality.
In reply to manker:
are you confusing ethics and style?
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> and on top with his ethics
>
> and on top with his ethics
are you confusing ethics and style?
In reply to UKC News:
James (Caff) McHaffie is the best climber in Britain at the moment.
He once soloed 50 lakeland extremes in a day, just a training day! Awesome.
James (Caff) McHaffie is the best climber in Britain at the moment.
He once soloed 50 lakeland extremes in a day, just a training day! Awesome.
In reply to Steve Crowe:
50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
In reply to Offwidth:
It takes someone of his standard to carry out such a feat.
> (In reply to Steve Crowe)
>
> 50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
>
> 50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
It takes someone of his standard to carry out such a feat.
In reply to Offwidth: Come on, doing 50 short routes even if they are below your standard by a long way is a very good effort. Doing 50 E1s in the Lake District (hence probably a bit longer than many grit routes) would be exhausting, even for an E8 climber.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
No it doesnt: with planning a much lesser climber could do that. Of course it depends what extremes he soloed and in what style and it takes nothing from the man.
50 lakes extreme solos from one of the best onsight climbers in the UK just isn't awesome unless its meant it in a 'Bill and Ted' throwaway way.
No it doesnt: with planning a much lesser climber could do that. Of course it depends what extremes he soloed and in what style and it takes nothing from the man.
50 lakes extreme solos from one of the best onsight climbers in the UK just isn't awesome unless its meant it in a 'Bill and Ted' throwaway way.
In reply to Offwidth:
In a day? It is. Its not like The Peak where they're all lined up next to each other, clean and only 40ft high.
> (In reply to Steve Crowe)
>
> 50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
>
> 50 lakeland extreme solos is hardly 'awesome' for a climber of his standard.
In a day? It is. Its not like The Peak where they're all lined up next to each other, clean and only 40ft high.
I wonder which routes he soloed, some Lakes mild extremes can be filthy and f*cking desperate.
I've heard some scary stories about Caff soloing, whether they are true of Chinese whispers is another matter.
I've heard some scary stories about Caff soloing, whether they are true of Chinese whispers is another matter.
In reply to Offwidth: Mate, 50 lakeland extremes in a day is very, very impressive.
In reply to Offwidth:
So what would be awesome in your books? Personally I think it is an amazing effort!
Chris
So what would be awesome in your books? Personally I think it is an amazing effort!
Chris
In reply to Offwidth:
Your showing your ignorance there i am afraid. Lets just say me and most others will beg to differ.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> 50 lakes extreme solos from one of the best onsight climbers in the UK just isn't awesome unless its meant it in a 'Bill and Ted' throwaway way.
> 50 lakes extreme solos from one of the best onsight climbers in the UK just isn't awesome unless its meant it in a 'Bill and Ted' throwaway way.
Your showing your ignorance there i am afraid. Lets just say me and most others will beg to differ.
In reply to Chris Craggs: I don't think Caff should solo anything. He's such a nice lad we need him to stick around. Soloing is lethal.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
As everyone else except Offwidth says, sounds pretty amazing to me - John Arran found repeating Big Ron's 100 extreme solos on grit in a day pretty tough, 50 lakeland extremes is much harder I would think.
As everyone else except Offwidth says, sounds pretty amazing to me - John Arran found repeating Big Ron's 100 extreme solos on grit in a day pretty tough, 50 lakeland extremes is much harder I would think.
In reply to TobyA:
Yes it is "a very good effort" for even the best climbers. Yes "it would be exhausting, even for an E8 climber". Yes it's very newsworthy. Yes depending on the routes and style it may be awesome but '50 lakes extreme solos' in itself is not.
The recent solo of Moonlight Buttress and Regular Route on Half Dome were awesome. Ron's big solo day or the traverse of Stanage in their time were awesome.
Yes it is "a very good effort" for even the best climbers. Yes "it would be exhausting, even for an E8 climber". Yes it's very newsworthy. Yes depending on the routes and style it may be awesome but '50 lakes extreme solos' in itself is not.
The recent solo of Moonlight Buttress and Regular Route on Half Dome were awesome. Ron's big solo day or the traverse of Stanage in their time were awesome.
In reply to Offwidth:
Nice back tracking.
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
> Yes it is "a very good effort" for even the best climbers. Yes "it would be exhausting, even for an E8 climber". Yes it's very newsworthy. Yes depending on the routes and style it may be awesome but '50 lakes extreme solos' in itself is not.
>
> Yes it is "a very good effort" for even the best climbers. Yes "it would be exhausting, even for an E8 climber". Yes it's very newsworthy. Yes depending on the routes and style it may be awesome but '50 lakes extreme solos' in itself is not.
Nice back tracking.
In reply to Offwidth:
It does strike me as being rather good. I did soemthing of a similar (though significantly less challenge) last year, 50 routes in 4 hours at Burbage North, then the following weekend 100 stars in the Eastern Peak. As endurance goes, it was very pushy, and as anyone who has done this sort of thing will testify, towards the end it gets so much harder. Soloing E numbers at the end of an endurance challenge is a very different ball game to say, the first ten. A very good effort.
It does strike me as being rather good. I did soemthing of a similar (though significantly less challenge) last year, 50 routes in 4 hours at Burbage North, then the following weekend 100 stars in the Eastern Peak. As endurance goes, it was very pushy, and as anyone who has done this sort of thing will testify, towards the end it gets so much harder. Soloing E numbers at the end of an endurance challenge is a very different ball game to say, the first ten. A very good effort.
In reply to UKC News:
didn't know the lakes had 50 "extreme climbs"
didn't know the lakes had 50 "extreme climbs"
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
My objection was to the word 'awesome'. To me this means you are in awe of what they did despite a good idea of what they are capable of. To others in a 'Bill and Ted' sense, it means something closer to that was impressive and unexpected (based partly on ignorance). So, I'm sorry if I rate James too highly to be in awe of this (as it was presented), in my sense of the word.
Anyway this is getting out of hand, and it's taking away from a multi-route achievement that I'd like to see more of, from climbers at all levels.
My objection was to the word 'awesome'. To me this means you are in awe of what they did despite a good idea of what they are capable of. To others in a 'Bill and Ted' sense, it means something closer to that was impressive and unexpected (based partly on ignorance). So, I'm sorry if I rate James too highly to be in awe of this (as it was presented), in my sense of the word.
Anyway this is getting out of hand, and it's taking away from a multi-route achievement that I'd like to see more of, from climbers at all levels.
In reply to UKC News:
As you would expect from one of Britain's TRULY great trad climbers.
Nice one.
As you would expect from one of Britain's TRULY great trad climbers.
Nice one.
In reply to the cassin ridge:
E4 onsight in the rain on Pavey Ark is one...
To the guy who thinks 50 lakeland extremes in a day isn't awesome, wheesht.
> I've heard some scary stories about Caff soloing, whether they are true of Chinese whispers is another matter.
E4 onsight in the rain on Pavey Ark is one...
To the guy who thinks 50 lakeland extremes in a day isn't awesome, wheesht.
In reply to martin heywood:
And re. the extreme solos:
Doesn't the awesomeness (or lack of) rather depend on which routes they were? A load of bold E1 5a's wouldn't be the same as a load of E6 6b's. Anyway I am sure it was impressive enough for the average witness....
And re. the extreme solos:
Doesn't the awesomeness (or lack of) rather depend on which routes they were? A load of bold E1 5a's wouldn't be the same as a load of E6 6b's. Anyway I am sure it was impressive enough for the average witness....
In reply to gribble:
I did a similar thing a few years ago with a friend (similar to you that is not the 50 extremes in a day!). Like you I also faded towards the end. My friend however was pretty much as fresh at the finish as he was at the start. He was and is just a lot fitter than me - I think we underestimate just what a difference real fitness can lead to sometimes. Big Ron had (has) that fitness and I'm guessing McHaffie does. Not to say, re the expressions of amazement, that 50 in the Lakes isn't damn impressive
I did a similar thing a few years ago with a friend (similar to you that is not the 50 extremes in a day!). Like you I also faded towards the end. My friend however was pretty much as fresh at the finish as he was at the start. He was and is just a lot fitter than me - I think we underestimate just what a difference real fitness can lead to sometimes. Big Ron had (has) that fitness and I'm guessing McHaffie does. Not to say, re the expressions of amazement, that 50 in the Lakes isn't damn impressive
In reply to John Gillott:
I find that pretty awesome too. I suppose it's no different to what Bachar and Croft were doing back in the day, perhaps. As long as you stick to reasonably roadside crags. I'd love to see a list, but I guess Caff isn't the type.
jcm
I find that pretty awesome too. I suppose it's no different to what Bachar and Croft were doing back in the day, perhaps. As long as you stick to reasonably roadside crags. I'd love to see a list, but I guess Caff isn't the type.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: And who were the chaps who tried to do all the Brown/Whillans routes (in the Peak? In Staffordshire?) in a day? Mark Sharret and Andy Turner was it? Or is that the hard Scottish winter Andy? Andy something anyway. Both very talented climbers but didn't quite make because they just got knackered by the end of the day even for doing routes which are pretty straightforward. There was a good article about their attempt in Climb last year.
In reply to TobyA:
Yes, that was Shaz and Andi. I was taking photos and *I* was knackered.
Yes, that was Shaz and Andi. I was taking photos and *I* was knackered.
In reply to Jon Read: How many routes did they do and how many were they aiming for? Good photos BTW!
In reply to Offwidth:
I would argue that 50 lakes extremes in a day would be harder than 100 peak extremes in a day. So awesome is a good word to describe Caff's effort.
Enty
> (In reply to TobyA)
> The recent solo of Moonlight Buttress and Regular Route on Half Dome were awesome. Ron's big solo day or the traverse of Stanage in their time were awesome.
I would argue that 50 lakes extremes in a day would be harder than 100 peak extremes in a day. So awesome is a good word to describe Caff's effort.
Enty
In reply to TobyA: can;t remember. total of about 30+, they managed 25ish.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I don't know what all the routes were but I would love to find out. I do know that they included classics like Grand Alliance and Prana.
> I'd love to see a list, but I guess Caff isn't the type.
I don't know what all the routes were but I would love to find out. I do know that they included classics like Grand Alliance and Prana.
In reply to Steve Crowe: Which is what makes the whole thing so impressive really. Just thinking about the speed of movement needed (averaging a route every 15 minutes for 12 hours straight!) makes my brain hurt without even imagining being up solo on the crux of a multi-pitch E4, 20 odd routes into your day. Even on the grit that pace would be impressive but to maintain it on longer lakeland climbs is mindboggling.
In reply to Steve Crowe:
!!!
Not exactly roadside E1 5as then.
I think Offwidth may need to recalibrate his awemeter.
jcm
!!!
Not exactly roadside E1 5as then.
I think Offwidth may need to recalibrate his awemeter.
jcm
In reply to Offwidth:
What a silly way to be pedantic. I bet the number of people who have ever soloed 50 extremes in the lakes is less than a hundred. They are so much taller, dirtier, further apart and more serious than Peak routes. Have you led 50 extremes in the lakes?
What a silly way to be pedantic. I bet the number of people who have ever soloed 50 extremes in the lakes is less than a hundred. They are so much taller, dirtier, further apart and more serious than Peak routes. Have you led 50 extremes in the lakes?
In reply to Steve Crowe:
Sounds terrifying!
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> [...]
>
> like Grand Alliance and Prana.
>
> [...]
>
> like Grand Alliance and Prana.
Sounds terrifying!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
You may be right if we are talking quite a few high, mid-extreme, long routes, without recent pre-inspections; wouldnt be the first time I happily "ate my hat".
One reason I said what I said isn't just language pedantry its the apparent embarrassment that some exceptional climbing friends of mine and other outstanding climbers I've met have displayed around words like awesome when it was appropriate or close enough. Then there is the delight of the media circus around such descriptions. I think hints of hyperbole are unneccesary when the action speaks for itself and slight understatement is a much better option. Maybe I'm old fashioned.
You may be right if we are talking quite a few high, mid-extreme, long routes, without recent pre-inspections; wouldnt be the first time I happily "ate my hat".
One reason I said what I said isn't just language pedantry its the apparent embarrassment that some exceptional climbing friends of mine and other outstanding climbers I've met have displayed around words like awesome when it was appropriate or close enough. Then there is the delight of the media circus around such descriptions. I think hints of hyperbole are unneccesary when the action speaks for itself and slight understatement is a much better option. Maybe I'm old fashioned.
In reply to Offwidth:
so 50 multipitch E3-5 retro flash/ onsight solos in the lakes would be impressive? I think that would be the single greatest climbing achievement ever. You were overly pedantic and didn't think about what soloing a Lakeland extreme entails, just accept it.
It's best to be honest (IMO)
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> You may be right if we are talking quite a few high, mid-extreme, long routes, without recent pre-inspections; wouldnt be the first time I happily "ate my hat".
>
>
> You may be right if we are talking quite a few high, mid-extreme, long routes, without recent pre-inspections; wouldnt be the first time I happily "ate my hat".
>
so 50 multipitch E3-5 retro flash/ onsight solos in the lakes would be impressive? I think that would be the single greatest climbing achievement ever. You were overly pedantic and didn't think about what soloing a Lakeland extreme entails, just accept it.
> One reason I said what I said isn't just language pedantry its the apparent embarrassment that some exceptional climbing friends of mine and other outstanding climbers I've met have displayed around words like awesome when it was appropriate or close enough. Then there is the delight of the media circus around such descriptions. I think hints of hyperbole are unneccesary when the action speaks for itself and slight understatement is a much better option. Maybe I'm old fashioned.
It's best to be honest (IMO)
In reply to hexcentric:
Wow when you do the maths that's an unbelievable feat, no matter how short or close by the routes were. I wonder how many hours he was out for?
Wow when you do the maths that's an unbelievable feat, no matter how short or close by the routes were. I wonder how many hours he was out for?
In reply to mrjonathanr:
Agreed; the more you think about it the more unbelievable it is.
What was Jimmy Jewel's list in four hours on Cloggy? Eight or so at around E3, although I think the four hours might have included a jog down to Pete's. I seem to recall that impressed people quite enough. I realise Cloggy's a bit higher than some Lakes crags, but even so.
Doesn't JJ say something on Total Control about soloing x routes in a day at Tremadog? I can't remember what x was, though.
jcm
Agreed; the more you think about it the more unbelievable it is.
What was Jimmy Jewel's list in four hours on Cloggy? Eight or so at around E3, although I think the four hours might have included a jog down to Pete's. I seem to recall that impressed people quite enough. I realise Cloggy's a bit higher than some Lakes crags, but even so.
Doesn't JJ say something on Total Control about soloing x routes in a day at Tremadog? I can't remember what x was, though.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I do know that McHaffie has on sight soloed Souls in Huntsman's Leap. As said above, he is not the sort of person who seeks publicity for his achievements.
In reply to John2:
When you say 'know', I take it you witnessed this?
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) I do know that McHaffie has on sight soloed Souls in Huntsman's Leap. As said above, he is not the sort of person who seeks publicity for his achievements.
When you say 'know', I take it you witnessed this?
In reply to Offwidth: get real, even logisitically this is amazing. lets say he starts at 09:00, he'll be climbing (and he has to stop for food, walk off / get down and go between venues) until 19:00 if he does 5 routes an hour. thats at least an E1 every 12 minutes. im guessing though his day was much, much longer than 10 hours. mighty stuff and yes, his E7 onsights are far more impressive for me than any of the big headpointing that goes on.
In reply to John2:
Really?
Enty
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) I do know that McHaffie has on sight soloed Souls in Huntsman's Leap. As said above, he is not the sort of person who seeks publicity for his achievements.
Really?
Enty
In reply to John2:
You don't mean O/S Soloed Hunter-Killer by any chance? A la http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=17796 (I am lead to believe that Shallow Water Soloed in that link would be a better phrase.)
You don't mean O/S Soloed Hunter-Killer by any chance? A la http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=17796 (I am lead to believe that Shallow Water Soloed in that link would be a better phrase.)
In reply to Adam L: I didn't witness this, but I was told it by one of his friends whom I have no reason to doubt.
In reply to Offwidth:
Like you I don't like the unwarranted overuse of words like "awesome" but I have to confess that it might well be suitable for 50 lakes extreme solos in a day.
I guess there's a few of the low crags in Borrowdale you could do quite a few short'ish routes one after the other but if you throw in stuff like Prana at Black Crag I do feel we are pretty much into the red end of the aweometer.
Like you I don't like the unwarranted overuse of words like "awesome" but I have to confess that it might well be suitable for 50 lakes extreme solos in a day.
I guess there's a few of the low crags in Borrowdale you could do quite a few short'ish routes one after the other but if you throw in stuff like Prana at Black Crag I do feel we are pretty much into the red end of the aweometer.
In reply to Offwidth:
In a day? In the Lakes? That really is a pretty awesome feat, I've no idea how you could think otherwise.
jk
> 50 lakes extreme solos from one of the best onsight climbers in the UK just isn't awesome unless its meant it in a 'Bill and Ted' throwaway way.
In a day? In the Lakes? That really is a pretty awesome feat, I've no idea how you could think otherwise.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Still going eh? "Ive no idea how you could think otherwise" really??? Knowing some impressive climbers and some keen endurance specialists I simply expected someone as talented as James to be able to acheive 50 extreme solos in the lakes by proper planning and working very hard. I reserve 'awesome' for the unexpected, like someone soloing Moonlight Buttress (surely no one could be that audacious?) or for a private wind-up if I know the talented climber well enough to play on their sensitivities. As I replied to Mr Cox, I may well turn out to be wrong on my lack of awe as I don't which 50 routes were climbed.
So "Ive no idea" I guess is more silly hyperbole that stung me into to this rather pointless circular argument in the first place. Serves me right for biting.
Still going eh? "Ive no idea how you could think otherwise" really??? Knowing some impressive climbers and some keen endurance specialists I simply expected someone as talented as James to be able to acheive 50 extreme solos in the lakes by proper planning and working very hard. I reserve 'awesome' for the unexpected, like someone soloing Moonlight Buttress (surely no one could be that audacious?) or for a private wind-up if I know the talented climber well enough to play on their sensitivities. As I replied to Mr Cox, I may well turn out to be wrong on my lack of awe as I don't which 50 routes were climbed.
So "Ive no idea" I guess is more silly hyperbole that stung me into to this rather pointless circular argument in the first place. Serves me right for biting.
In reply to Offwidth:
Given that Prana and Grand Alliance have been mentioned as 2 of the routes it seems obiovus we're not talking exclusively abpout single pitch E1s..
I'm personally quite intrigued to know which routes he did .. and where it ranks on the scale from 'pretty damn impressive' to 'awesome'. It would make a more than averagely intersting topic for an article at the very least
Cheers
Mark
Given that Prana and Grand Alliance have been mentioned as 2 of the routes it seems obiovus we're not talking exclusively abpout single pitch E1s..
I'm personally quite intrigued to know which routes he did .. and where it ranks on the scale from 'pretty damn impressive' to 'awesome'. It would make a more than averagely intersting topic for an article at the very least
Cheers
Mark
In reply to MarkM:
Well Jack is your man for getting the info off James. Jack?
> (In reply to Offwidth)
> It would make a more than averagely intersting topic for an article at the very least
> It would make a more than averagely intersting topic for an article at the very least
Well Jack is your man for getting the info off James. Jack?
In reply to Offwidth:
Sorry, wasn't meant to sting, I was just genuinely astonished at your statement.
jk
> So "Ive no idea" I guess is more silly hyperbole that stung me into to this rather pointless circular argument in the first place. Serves me right for biting.
Sorry, wasn't meant to sting, I was just genuinely astonished at your statement.
jk
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