UKC

What do people think is actually the least pleasant crag on here?

Alex

In reply to a13x:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=373

In reply to Toreador:

I've only been there once and the only route I did was Fluted Columns which was wet and the whole crag was'nt really my style but why such a personal dislike?

In reply to Toreador:

Almscliff?!?

I see your Almscliff and raise you Plump Hill Quarry!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1582
Complete & utter shite...

In reply to Toreador:

I've just noticed one of your favourite climbs is Parsons Chimney at Almscliff so I don't understand your rationale?!? Sure the climbs feel quite tough for the grade but there are some top routes on offer there...

In reply to everyone after Toreador: Maybe it was a joke...

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Plump Hill Quarry looks nice compared to this place I climbed on a couple of years ago.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9474

Strange that nobody seems to have repeated the routes - take a look at the photos, because they have probably all fallen down now.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:
Maybe he thinks the same way as me, cut down on over crowding by giving a negative impression about the crags?

Just incase anyone is interested I'd say that the entire Peak District should be nominated, it is all awful and loose.

In reply to Reach>Talent:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1397

In reply to a13x:

Obviously Portland, or did you mean a particular crag on Portland?

Actually I may be out of date - it's possible that Gibson has discovered some quarry in the Peak which is even more disagreeable, although I doubt it.

jcm

In reply to a13x:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1200

I win.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8949

In reply to funsized:

That really does look appalling. Makes various grubby sport quarries look like heaven.

In reply to a13x:

This one doesnt look very good:http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1989

In reply to a13x:
I'm reliably informed that this is a rubbish venue.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3453

In reply to a13x: Cadshaw Quarry http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1105 wet and vegetated, loose horrible

In reply to a13x:

I won't be rushing here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8566

In reply to a13x: We mustn't forget the classics

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1565

In reply to Toreador:

Clearly this place is much worse than The Cliff, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1657

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
The OP said 'crag' - that's just a load of big pebbles scattered around some woods.

In reply to a13x: This is pretty bad
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1565

In reply to a13x:

Gollum's Cave at Avon http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11480 - the decsription here is grossly misleading; it is the most vile, druggie infested, mattress littered, damp fireplace of a crag that it has ever been my misfortune to visit.

In reply to a13x: Am I the only one

who is mining this thread for venues?

In reply to a13x:

Also: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1341

In reply to a13x:

Dunnerholme

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1459

In reply to davidbeynon:

Heathen!

In reply to Southern Man:

Personally I like that sort of thing, but for a large percentage of the people here I'm willing to bet it would be hell on earth

In reply to Wilbur:


Excuse me, but where are the old bonfires, discarded needles and condoms, broken glass and soot-covered rock that are prerequisites at this end of the venue spectrum? Besides which, it is quite clear from the photo that it is not possible to stand at the foot of the crag and touch the top at the same time.


In comparison to some of the crags cited above, this looks well-appointed. However, I am prepared for the flattering photo angle, taken from the sewage outfall pipe.

PS I have climbed on a crag called Poo Corner for such a feature, and it was way nicer than Gollum's Cave, even though the outfall was at the top of the crag.

In reply to Al Evans:
yes, but in 1847 you have a very good route, regardless of the surroundings

In reply to nniff:

Looks pretty cool in that photo! Curious holes is different...kinda cool really. Pretty awful photos on here.

Would probs vote for Plump Hill out of those I've actually been to, the photos on here make it look far nicer than it really is. Still doesn't sound that bad compared to some listed on here, at least it's a pretty area and not full of rubbish!

In reply to a13x:

Cant believe I wasted a morning here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=106

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

It's not that bad. There are worse crags in the area.

I am sorry. You are all wrong:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=240
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2280

In reply to a13x: I'd be interested to hear nominations for the worst crag north of the border...

In reply to Ian Cameron:
North Queensferry Quarry - Dont be fooled by the nice picture.. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=156

And Rosneath is particuarly uninviting, no gear, bramble belays and midge hell. 100 plus routes, and no one can be bothered to write them up, shame.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11957

I'm sure there are plenty more special esoteric beauties to be found in the central belt..

In reply to a13x:
Welcome to my local grotty venues:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11041
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11042

In reply to Lawrie Brand: I've got kinda mixed feelings about Auchinstarry Quarry in the central belt. I know it's popular and well-loved but it can be a bit grim with the broken glass etc and the busy road right in front of the easier climbs.

In reply to a13x:
Obviously nobody has been to cleadon + caussey quarry

In reply to Bulley:
Oh come on, there's nothing wrong with Causey!

In reply to a13x: this thread's hilarious. What a horror show.

In reply to Toreador:

I could almost agree with you on Almscliff.

The Gristone Wart.......

However some of your favourite haunts are being dissed on here!

Not in your UKC logbook but suggested for Melbourne dwellers on Victorian website "chockstone.org" :

http://www.chockstone.org/Melbourne/RichmondBridge5l.JPG

WARNING! Don't move to Victoria if your sanity depends on rock climbing at more than one venue without burning as much fossil fuel as a medium sized airline.

In reply to Lawrie Brand: There's a full guide to Rosneath in the Lowland Outcrops book.

In reply to aln: I know there is, but even the crummy quarrys have some logbook ticks on here, - Rosneath - none.. even with over 100 routes to choose from.. Its a bramble hell.

Auchinstarry is what it is - a loose central belt quarry, but has some nice routes hidden away. It would possibly be less loose if the council stopped going round every wee while with their crowbars too.

In reply to a13x: Has to be Shitlington. What's in a name, eh?

In reply to nniff:

Can't be that bad, there seems to be an in situ chair for chilling out in between climbing!

In reply to a13x:

Some crags are so bad they're great!

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/01_Birch_Quarry_834.html

In reply to a13x:

My memory is a bit hazy, as this is going way back (over 20 years), but here goes...

Many years ago I used to live in a village called Melling, in the Lune valley, Lancashire.

There was a small, but impressively overgrown, wet and chossy quarry nearby that I used to do some scrambling and tree climbing in when I was a kid.

It's moire or less opposite the primary school. Here:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&q=Melling,+C...

In reply to Misha:

Some tom must have brought that down because the mattress was too wet.....

You really don't want to do a sit start there, which is unfortunate as that halves the usable height of the crag. I suppose the chair is the third way, a sit start without sitting in a pool of urine.

In reply to a13x:

Man some of these are really bad!! We should get a list together.

Never been here and dont think I want to:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1245


Alex

In reply to NorthernRock:

I've never even heard of most of them - so they can't be that bad or I'd have been to them.

In reply to Al Evans:

Yeah, and who's responsibility would *that* be, then , Al?

In reply to a13x:

How could I forget this beauty?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10023

I went over there with TraceyR a while ago to check it out, after I spotted it on a walk. 10m of soft sandstone and 5m of death!

In reply to Al Evans: Big of you to own up to that Al. Do you remember Priestcliff Quarry, between Stoney and Buxton. Did any more ever get done there? I did a route graded about HVS that started out as a 1 inch finger crack but by the time I had finished my second was bridging a chimney. We never returned but perhaps there are some solid walls that would take bolts.

Al

In reply to a13x: I was surprised to find an entry for crag point , seaton sluice...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10996

No climbs listed, perhaps they've all fallen down since I last climbed there.

In reply to Toreador: ill agree, the only good thing about the cliff is you see if caley is dry.

In reply to graeme jackson: Never the same place once Charlies garden fell down!

In reply to a13x:

>> Nice to see that no crags from the higher hills were mentioned.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2727

Dalmahoy Hill, the worst crag in the entire world.

In reply to a13x:

Of ones that I've actually visited:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11375

Actually sounded quite promising in Highland Outcrops; a number of routes listed and even some stars. The reality was vegetated on a grand scale and didnt look like it had seen a climber in decades. I didnt put my shoes on.

A number of these crags raise a possible case for retro-bolting and/or dry tooling. Or if not definately for more selective guidebooks!

In reply to niggle:

Nah, the crag's ok, it's just the approach that's crap.

In reply to a13x:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1965

Worst I've been dragged to anyhow.

In reply to a13x: Jack Scout Crag would be the worst one I've had the pleasure of.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1251

In reply to a13x:

There is no discussion in this matter.

The answer is 'Thorgill Crag', North Yorkshire.

The walk in is terrible. The routes unclimbable. The routes are crap anyway, even if it wasn't all trees and it's just generally a total pile.

Middlehead is also poor.

In reply to a13x:

Maybe not the worst in the logbooks but the worst one I've been to

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=52

Tottering choss pit.

In reply to mockerkin:


>> Nice to see that no crags from the higher hills were mentioned.

>> O.K. I'm going to reply to my own post, seeing that no-one has taken the bait. Insofare as this OP has attracted only replies from small outcrop
& quarry climbers, does that mean that those "crags" are naturally in bad condition or that few people contributing to this post have ever seen a mountain route in the high hills of Scotland, Lakes & Wales?

In reply to mockerkin:


>> Nice to see that no crags from the higher hills were mentioned.

>> O.K. I'm going to reply to my own post, seeing that no-one has taken the bait. Insofare as this OP has attracted only replies from small outcrop
& quarry climbers, does that mean that those "crags" are naturally in bad condition or that few people on this website have ever seen a mountain route in the high hills of Scotland, Lakes & Wales?

In reply to mockerkin:

I think part of it is that people tend to be more selective if they are going to be walking 2 hours to get to the bottom of their route.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Also I think mountain routes are inherently nicer - even a choss pile is apt to give good views on the way up.

In reply to davidbeynon:


There is also liable to be an uplifting mountain ambience, even if the climbing is terrible. And while people might feel that a fundamentally loose and vegetated outcrop is survivable, a similarly grotty mountain crag might not be...

In reply to mockerkin:

I'm from the lakes and because of the quantity of quality rock we usually feel no need to develop rubbish. Most of the real dregs here are in places without good rock, otherwise they wouldnt have been developed!

In reply to a13x:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9281

Desperate in anything but heavy rain.

In reply to a13x: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10530


what climbs??? routes???

In reply to a13x:
That is what I meant. We have so much good rock there & Scotland & Wales, that we don't need any rubbish that is also there. But it was the fact that no-one mentioned poor high hill crags that made me wonder if they had ever seen one.

In reply to mockerkin: The answer is no.

I have never been on a mountain route I didn't enjoy, although some of them would certainly be described as god awful choss piles if they were 10 minutes from the road and/or near sea level.

In reply to highaltitudebarista:

The question was about the least pleasant. Jack Scout's a lovely location. Really mellow and in a delightful setting. Come to think of it the climbing's fun too. Not the best in the world but no where near the worst in the UK, England or even Lancashire. I wish I had something similar here. I'd be a pig in muck if I did.

In reply to a13x:

Mountain routes apart, in the hills, the alledged climbs on Dumyat nr Stirling are non existant.

Rosythe Quarry has to be the worst place in the universe to climb outdoors due to the fact you might actually get shot dead by locals.

The worst indoor venue has got to be llangorse ropes centre or worcester climbing wall - both epic in their shitness

In reply to a13x:

As a related aside, have any Leeds-based climbers out there ever visited the delightful Bramley Falls Quarry and know anything about the routes there? Someone mentioned it on here a while back and not having anything better to do at the time, I went to have a look. Needless to say, it was a total pile, the rock quality was appalling and the setting was hardly any better - it was nearly as bad as Lancashire, if you can conceive of such a thing. The penalty for failure would be to land in a mangled heap in one of the many discarded refrigerators that adorn the crag base, although it's possible you may get lucky depending on when you were there - it's not beyond the realms of possibility that you'd land on a comotose alcoholic tramp, or in the corpse of a recently deceased heroin addict.

What was even more amazing though, was the existence of a totally decrepit peg, with some equally decrepit tat hanging off it two thirds of the way up one of the walls. Clearly someone has been deranged enough to climb here in the past - anyone know any more about it?

In reply to a13x: What? No one has gone for the obvious

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=104

or more truthfully

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=138

or factually

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=148

In reply to Karl Bromelow: Totally agree, Jack Scout is excellent fun. It has a few problems (fence post belays, mysterious insect infestation, dodgy scramble descent/approach path) But the climbing is good and very interesting. Me and a mate had a go at The Onedin Line last weekend at high tide, so much fun.

In reply to a13x:

My top 5 from the topic so far:

Finedon Slabs
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1200

Metropolitan Police Fishery
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3453

Stannington Ruffs
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1565

Clifton Reynes Disused Railway Bridge
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1245

Coaley Wood Crag
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=10023

Also what do people think it is that makes a "crag" crap? I'm thinking vegetation (including spikey plants)and loose rock (or not even made of rock)...

Alex

In reply to a13x:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=4206

In reply to Pagan: Sounds classy mate.

In reply to a13x:

For me, the chance of either getting killed by a non climbing incident (i.e. getting hit by a scooter being launched off the top of the crag by neds at rosythe), or getting the car stolen (Morlais Quarry), have a big say when you are considering the catagory I call 'crag ambience'...

In reply to Rob Naylor:

My excuse is that it was the only crag opened in the Peak during the first big foot and mouth outbreak in the 60's

In reply to a13x:

The Ruffs - now you're talking. And as it happens, the closest rock to me.
Not even can it be given the exhalted title of 'Quarry', as I believe the 'crag' is the result of a landslip in the not too distant past.

Mam Tor is a reasonable winter venue at least, and a fine looking hill to boot (pun intended). And what's wrong with Ramshaw? Some of these people need to get out more

In reply to Mike Hall:

Seconded. Well worth avoiding.

T.