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![[Neil Kershaw on Clock People, E6 Millstone, 3 kb]](http://img.ukclimbing.com/t/142674.jpg "[Neil Kershaw on Clock People, E6 Millstone, 3 kb]")
A regular theme that crops up on the UKC forums is that of the local hero. You know, the climber who quietly onsights E6s every time they go out...
Do they really exist?
Adam Long introduces Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53061
In reply to UKC News:
Great article Adam! I think most know of a 'local hero'.
I think perhaps this being a weekly slot would be a bit too much work, but how about making it a fortnightly thing?
Great article Adam! I think most know of a 'local hero'.
I think perhaps this being a weekly slot would be a bit too much work, but how about making it a fortnightly thing?
In reply to UKC News: good article me ode! The man is on fire
In reply to UKC News: Wow. Think he's the lad who was at Caley the t`other week when there were rumours of Psycho, Adrenaline Rush and Marrowbone being done in one day.By the same bloke. Wow again.
In reply to UKC News: excellent
Local heroes:
This would be a very good regular theme. Nice article.
This would be a very good regular theme. Nice article.
In reply to UKC News:
At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed, just some lads having fun without making a big thing of what they were doing, good effort lads.
<Wonders if our equally impressive on-sights of Spiral Stairs and flying Buttress was noted by them!>
At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed, just some lads having fun without making a big thing of what they were doing, good effort lads.
<Wonders if our equally impressive on-sights of Spiral Stairs and flying Buttress was noted by them!>
In reply to UKC News:
Nice One Nige! Good list there!!
Nice One Nige! Good list there!!
Nice one Nige - great list for such a short time. Well written piece Adam.
Clock people photo is absolutely brilliant. Love it!!
Clock people photo is absolutely brilliant. Love it!!
In reply to UKC News:
Great story and photos. Nice work Adam. Some words from the man himself would be good.....or maybe best keep it enigmatic
Great story and photos. Nice work Adam. Some words from the man himself would be good.....or maybe best keep it enigmatic
In reply to blanchie14c:
>my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed
Eh? Isn't this something you see more or less every time you go to the Cromlech? Have you ever been before?!
jcm
>my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed
Eh? Isn't this something you see more or less every time you go to the Cromlech? Have you ever been before?!
jcm
In reply to UKC News:
A friend of mine posted a trip report on his blog a few week's ago: http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/2010/04/car-troubles-portland-and-bit-of-grit....
He got a picture of Neil high up Master's edge, it's at the bottom of the blog post.
A friend of mine posted a trip report on his blog a few week's ago: http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/2010/04/car-troubles-portland-and-bit-of-grit....
He got a picture of Neil high up Master's edge, it's at the bottom of the blog post.
In reply to UKC News:
Good article and I've always thought that, in comparison to US magazines, British mags don't do enough profiles of dark horses. Pity this wasn't a full blown profile.
Good article and I've always thought that, in comparison to US magazines, British mags don't do enough profiles of dark horses. Pity this wasn't a full blown profile.
In reply to UKC News: excellent article, I'd love to read more like this.
In reply to UKC News:
Local heroes/dark horses tend to climb for themselves, not for the adulation of others. It may prove difficult to pin them down in this sort of article, most would shy away, their climbing is about their own fun not self agrandising.
Local heroes/dark horses tend to climb for themselves, not for the adulation of others. It may prove difficult to pin them down in this sort of article, most would shy away, their climbing is about their own fun not self agrandising.
In reply to Tyler:
Isn't it ironic that someone who is a local hero and quitely goes about his climbing is being splayed across the climbing press, with his ascents being scripted to the degree of how he warmed up for a route.
Nicely written article and enjoyable none the less. Shame it wasn't a full blown profile?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Good article and I've always thought that, in comparison to US magazines, British mags don't do enough profiles of dark horses. Pity this wasn't a full blown profile.
>
> Good article and I've always thought that, in comparison to US magazines, British mags don't do enough profiles of dark horses. Pity this wasn't a full blown profile.
Isn't it ironic that someone who is a local hero and quitely goes about his climbing is being splayed across the climbing press, with his ascents being scripted to the degree of how he warmed up for a route.
Nicely written article and enjoyable none the less. Shame it wasn't a full blown profile?
Bon Effort Neil!
"Bone those holds..."
"Bone those holds..."
In reply to UKC News: Good article.
I've always thought that most members of the public with no climbing knowledge would asume people like Neil were professional sportsman with a team of trainers and physios, not normal people with a fulltime job.
Inspirational stuff.
I've always thought that most members of the public with no climbing knowledge would asume people like Neil were professional sportsman with a team of trainers and physios, not normal people with a fulltime job.
Inspirational stuff.
In reply to fijibaby:
I don't think they'd imagine that for long if there actually were climbers who were professional sportsmen with teams of trainers and physios. The fact is we're pretty rubbish at climbing relative to what we would be if it were as popular as football. And a good thing too.
jcm
I don't think they'd imagine that for long if there actually were climbers who were professional sportsmen with teams of trainers and physios. The fact is we're pretty rubbish at climbing relative to what we would be if it were as popular as football. And a good thing too.
jcm
Thanks for all the feedback folks. I'd like to hear about more local heroes too!
In reply to Paul R:
I don't think so. For starters I got Nige to write and email me the ticklist, and the note about his warm-up was his own.
Generally the climbing media is pretty low-key, and a lot of the time the ascents that get press are the ones where the climber is prepared to shout about it. If a climber isn't interested in doing that it doesn't neccessarily follow that they are against a bit of exposure. Many just wouldn't know where to start, or wouldn't feel comfortable making the call themselves.
In fact I can only think of one climber I've met who was opposed to a bit of exposure. And I think that was because he didn't feel the media represented the right climbers - understandable but not entirely logical!
In reply to fijibaby:
On the other hand, in my experience most climbers seem to assume all very good climbers are sponsored, and on some easy ride where they get to climb every day. I've lost count of the times folk have assumed I'm sponsored by 5.10, for example.
In reply to Paul R:
>
> Isn't it ironic that someone who is a local hero and quitely goes about his climbing is being splayed across the climbing press, with his ascents being scripted to the degree of how he warmed up for a route.
> Isn't it ironic that someone who is a local hero and quitely goes about his climbing is being splayed across the climbing press, with his ascents being scripted to the degree of how he warmed up for a route.
I don't think so. For starters I got Nige to write and email me the ticklist, and the note about his warm-up was his own.
Generally the climbing media is pretty low-key, and a lot of the time the ascents that get press are the ones where the climber is prepared to shout about it. If a climber isn't interested in doing that it doesn't neccessarily follow that they are against a bit of exposure. Many just wouldn't know where to start, or wouldn't feel comfortable making the call themselves.
In fact I can only think of one climber I've met who was opposed to a bit of exposure. And I think that was because he didn't feel the media represented the right climbers - understandable but not entirely logical!
In reply to fijibaby:
> I've always thought that most members of the public with no climbing knowledge would asume people like Neil were professional sportsman
On the other hand, in my experience most climbers seem to assume all very good climbers are sponsored, and on some easy ride where they get to climb every day. I've lost count of the times folk have assumed I'm sponsored by 5.10, for example.
In reply to Adam Long:
>In fact I can only think of one climber I've met who was opposed to a bit of exposure.
Didn't Colin Mortlock used to make this climbing partners swear not to tell anyone where they'd been or what they'd done, even in the pub?
Nice theme for an article by the way; I'd like some more too.
jcm
>In fact I can only think of one climber I've met who was opposed to a bit of exposure.
Didn't Colin Mortlock used to make this climbing partners swear not to tell anyone where they'd been or what they'd done, even in the pub?
Nice theme for an article by the way; I'd like some more too.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
He'd have probably helped himself here if he hadn't called his best route Mortlock's Arete!
> Didn't Colin Mortlock used to make this climbing partners swear not to tell anyone where they'd been or what they'd done, even in the pub?
He'd have probably helped himself here if he hadn't called his best route Mortlock's Arete!
1
In reply to Tyler:
And indeed made the FA of Cloggy's rather excellent Little Krapper. I suppose that must have been an earlier phase.
jcm
And indeed made the FA of Cloggy's rather excellent Little Krapper. I suppose that must have been an earlier phase.
jcm
In reply to UKC News:
Nice article, but for those of us who have never felt the need to stuff a condom full of walnuts what does that look like? Does it matter if you shell them first and what variety of condom are you talking about?
Nice article, but for those of us who have never felt the need to stuff a condom full of walnuts what does that look like? Does it matter if you shell them first and what variety of condom are you talking about?
1
In reply to Adam Long:
Great article - thanks for writing this.
I'd love to see more like this too. This sort of thing is much much more inspirational to someone like me than the recent Mammut video for example.
Cheers.
Great article - thanks for writing this.
I'd love to see more like this too. This sort of thing is much much more inspirational to someone like me than the recent Mammut video for example.
Cheers.
In reply to Adam Long: Apologies, my post reads a bit abrupt, it wasnt meant as a slurr. My point was/is that local hero status is what it suggests, a bod who goes about doing his business known only to friends and locals, in producing this article 'nige's' local hero status is now defunct. Like batman loosing his mask.
Characters like 'nige' and many many others are the roots of folk laws and superhero stories within climbing. The origins of stories past down that you stumble across in conversations in pubs, they put the character and charm into our 'sport'. The aspect of which is disappearing fast.
Is exposure really necessary?
Characters like 'nige' and many many others are the roots of folk laws and superhero stories within climbing. The origins of stories past down that you stumble across in conversations in pubs, they put the character and charm into our 'sport'. The aspect of which is disappearing fast.
Is exposure really necessary?
In reply to Paul R: Folklore surely?
In reply to Paul R:
I see what you mean, but I'm not sure that keeping these characters in the shadows is really part of climbing's charm.
So all you want column space given to is sponsored 'heroes' who plan their life around what route will get the most magazine covers? Like 'Ant Mace' above, I don't really find this stuff the most inspiring.
There will always be rumours going around to keep your pub stories going. Most of the best ones I've heard are about 'name' climbers anyway; and if someone is genuinely good but unknown they'll break through somehow sooner or later.
I see what you mean, but I'm not sure that keeping these characters in the shadows is really part of climbing's charm.
So all you want column space given to is sponsored 'heroes' who plan their life around what route will get the most magazine covers? Like 'Ant Mace' above, I don't really find this stuff the most inspiring.
There will always be rumours going around to keep your pub stories going. Most of the best ones I've heard are about 'name' climbers anyway; and if someone is genuinely good but unknown they'll break through somehow sooner or later.
In reply to UKC News:
The climber who onsighted Braille Trail also appears to have onsighted every major route on the crag in the same day (including Equilibrium etc). Wow! Didn't know Mr Force-it was still having such good days out on the crags.
The climber who onsighted Braille Trail also appears to have onsighted every major route on the crag in the same day (including Equilibrium etc). Wow! Didn't know Mr Force-it was still having such good days out on the crags.
In reply to blanchie14c: Hey that was us the other day on the cromlech!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: It was 'Tess of the D'urbevilles' i did. It seemed a little less frequented
(Worthwhile nontheless)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: It was 'Tess of the D'urbevilles' i did. It seemed a little less frequented
(Worthwhile nontheless)
In reply to UKC News:
Interestingly his tick list reads almost exactly like the sort of thing Shaun Hutson and friends were getting up to in the late 80's / early 90's.
Similar style routes, similar ethics and equally quiet about the whole thing. Great article!
Interestingly his tick list reads almost exactly like the sort of thing Shaun Hutson and friends were getting up to in the late 80's / early 90's.
Similar style routes, similar ethics and equally quiet about the whole thing. Great article!
In reply to UKC News: He is carrying a proper rack when he is climbing clock people!
In reply to blanchie14c:
People onsighting uber-classic three star protected E2s and E5s one one of the most famous crags in Britain isn't actually that rare.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed, just some lads having fun without making a big thing of what they were doing, good effort lads.
> At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed, just some lads having fun without making a big thing of what they were doing, good effort lads.
People onsighting uber-classic three star protected E2s and E5s one one of the most famous crags in Britain isn't actually that rare.
In reply to blanchie14c:
errm, I agree with jcm. If it's sunny saturday and the rock isn't seeping, I'd be surprised if somebody hadn't got on Right Wall at some point during the day, using Left Wall as a warm up.
Back on thread, I think this sort of article is really interesting, and I look forward to more!
> (In reply to UKC News)
> At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed
> At the Cromlech the other day, my partner and I were treated to an on sight of both left and right wall. A rare sight indeed
errm, I agree with jcm. If it's sunny saturday and the rock isn't seeping, I'd be surprised if somebody hadn't got on Right Wall at some point during the day, using Left Wall as a warm up.
Back on thread, I think this sort of article is really interesting, and I look forward to more!
In reply to Adam Long:
Big up the UNUMC massive.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Another E6 ground-up for Nige on saturday - Lost World at Carls Wark.
>
> Another E6 ground-up for Nige on saturday - Lost World at Carls Wark.
Big up the UNUMC massive.
In reply to jonny2vests:
good article. I good departure from bolt climbers. This is what British climbing is about...the few who can do it.
good article. I good departure from bolt climbers. This is what British climbing is about...the few who can do it.
In reply to UKC News:
"...a ripped physique that has been compared to a condom stuffed with walnuts...", pmsl, thats manky, brilliant, need to slip that into conversation some time.
Hats off to Nige, super stylish ascent of Masters Edge.
"...a ripped physique that has been compared to a condom stuffed with walnuts...", pmsl, thats manky, brilliant, need to slip that into conversation some time.
Hats off to Nige, super stylish ascent of Masters Edge.
In reply to RockSteady:
I concur this should be a regular and cover the length and breadth of the UK. Plenty out there.
But what about local losers? Im not volunteering but you must have balance.
> Local heroes:
>
> This would be a very good regular theme. Nice article.
>
> This would be a very good regular theme. Nice article.
I concur this should be a regular and cover the length and breadth of the UK. Plenty out there.
But what about local losers? Im not volunteering but you must have balance.
In reply to UKC News: Great article Adam. I think its really good to know what's being done onsight or ground-up as it encourages others to have a go. I'm definitely inspired by some of these ascents. Well done Nige.
Quite like the suggestion about local losers though, could be a rich vein.
Quite like the suggestion about local losers though, could be a rich vein.
In reply to UKC News: I think it was Jude's (Calvert-Toulmin) daughter, either Hollie or Jodie, who coined the nickname 'Nigel' when said 'Nige' and mate Irish Simon stayed with her in 2001 when they first came to Sheffield.
"It was Jodie" says Jude. So not Chris Doyle, unless 'Nige' begs to differ of course.
Well done Nige btw. 'mazin'
"It was Jodie" says Jude. So not Chris Doyle, unless 'Nige' begs to differ of course.
Well done Nige btw. 'mazin'
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