UKC

Verdigris @ Brownstones....Advice!

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 tom290483 23 Apr 2010
Just a quick question about this little problem at Brownstones. I've only recently started going upto Brownstones and havent climbed with any locals/knowledgable people yet!

The topo I printed off the net says that the "jug on arete" is out of bounds and in the rockfax guide it says there is a useful hold on the arete. Are they talking about the same thing?

Can someone please clarify whats in and whats out on this problem please?

Cheers!
 dread-i 23 Apr 2010
In reply to tom290483:
From what I can remember, the huge hold on the arete is out (it is uk 6a after all). There is a thin crimp with a sort of lay away on a thin vertical edge. Use that to make progress.

OP tom290483 23 Apr 2010
In reply to dread-i:

I did think that was the way forward it was just the two guidebooks/topos i have seem to contradict themselves.

i'll get on it tomorrow.

cheers!
rginns 23 Apr 2010
In reply to tom290483: Never trust rockfax!!! The big jug on the arĂȘte is out of bounds, using this makes the problem about 4c.
From what I recall for me the high left foot is key, dreadi is right that you use a two finger crimp and a sidepull for the left. Great problem.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Apr 2010
In reply to tom290483:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=9694

Our description also says the arete is out of bounds.

Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

If in doubt consult the magic Wiki- http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/08.++Verdigris+V3+6a -with video!!
rginns 24 Apr 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to tom290483)
>
> http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=9694
>
> Our description also says the arete is out of bounds.
>
> Chris

I stand corrected then this time!
In reply to rginns:

You can see how it can be misconstrued:

The right side of the wall has a useful hold though the arete is to be avoided.

That could mean avoid the arete but use the handy hold.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 24 Apr 2010
In reply to bentley's biceps:

It could be misconstrued, but if the problem is graded 6a and using the jug on the arete makes it 4c............


Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Chris, never assume that people have common sense!
Besides, it'd be an wasy 6a tick

This is Brownstones- there are rules that govern the rules.
OP tom290483 26 Apr 2010
In reply to bentley's biceps:
> (In reply to rginns)
>
> You can see how it can be misconstrued:
>
> The right side of the wall has a useful hold though the arete is to be avoided.
>
> That could mean avoid the arete but use the handy hold.

That was what confused me!


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