UKC

Having totally failed on this on Monday, I'm baffled. OK I'm a bit ring rusty and took a long time getting up the technical groove to the roof so I might have been too knackered, but I really couldn't work out how to get out from under the roof. I got as far as the big side pully jug under the roof with a foot on a small hold on the arete - but where was I supposed to head for next ? I couldn't see any obvious foot or hand hold to go for. On sight blown now so any beta is welcome.

In reply to GrahamD:
Cant help with the beta it being years ago when I did this. However it seemed pretty hard for the grade at the time (HVS!) and quite out there once you'd pulled onto the wall. Excellent route though.

In reply to GrahamD: I did it 20+ years ago when it was HVS and found it stiff for the grade. I seem to recall a long reach for a hidden hold above the overhang. Have you tried this link? http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1751

In reply to GrahamD:

Ah, the move left from under the roof.

Well, without giving it all away, you basically have to move out horizontally leftwards from under the roof, leaving the good holds and gear behind and make a bold/committing swing type move round to a good ledge which you can't really see when you're ensconsed under the roof. From this ledge you then move back right above the roof. From the ledge, the rest of the pitch is about 4c but with lots of exposure and little protection, so steadyness is needed.

It used to be graded HVS 5a and was a bit of a knee trembler at that grade. It's now fairly graded IMO.

Hope this is enough to inspire you to have another go!

Dave

In reply to Dave Williams:

Yep, it's a bit of move alright. There is actually a good juggy fingerlock at the edge of the ledge around the corner which I only found after a bit of whimpering and a dangle on the peg.

Which means I've got to go back again and do the bloody thing clean of course.

Still excellent value at E1 I thought.

In reply to GrahamD:
1) Start to the right of the rib and work your way on top, step right onto flake and down slightly to make a move back up and right. Stay below the gorse on fairly crappy holds working your way right. head up through the holly bush to belay. 2)Trend left to the ledge with the ash tree mega flake to belay off. 3)The fun begins.... climb the groove behind the tree (the tree helps to get started) good gear placements. Step left slightly good foot holds then back into the groove on crappy holds,

What's with this route description? 'Crappy', 'mega'..for goodness sakes....grumble. rhubarb etc etc.

In reply to all:

I'm glad its not just me, then, and that the concensus seems to be E1 rather than the HVS I thought it was. Obviously needs a return visit with a bit more of a banzai attitude

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Actually, that seems to match my recollection of it pretty well.

In reply to GrahamD: Yep, traditionally one of those 'hard' HVS's that was worth a pop back in the 60's,70's

In reply to Al Evans:

Never did it but Clough and Alexander did it one day, along with Broad Walk and said it was one of their harder days out. Not a pushover even now with modern gear it seems.

In reply to GrahamD: Well this is reassuring as i found it tougher than expected. I do remember the first 20 ft of the groove being harder and scarier than the moves around the overhang so as it sounds like you did that bit with no probs hopefully on your next go you'll cruise it! Top pitch is good too.

mike