UKC

British climber Hazel Findlay has ticked the run-out and tenuous test-piece of Air Sweden (5.13R) at Indian Creek, USA.

During her visit to the sandstone crack Mecca she managed several 5.11 and 5.12 onsights and rounded her trip off with a very hard onsight of Ruby's Cafe (5.13-).

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53354

In reply to UKC News:

Tres Bien, most impressive!!

Having watched it in xxx ( insert name of DVD here, I can't remember which one it was)

In reply to UKC News: return to sender??

In reply to UKC News: Well Done, Hazel!!

In reply to UKC News:

I was there when Sonnie Trotter redpointed it, last October (photo: http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/galleries/climbers/indian-creek), it is certainly a very difficult route. But I find her flash of the ignominious Ruby's Cafe even more impressive!

In reply to Alex Buisse:

Damn, the forum messed up the link, it should read http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/galleries/climbers/indian-creek

In reply to Alex Buisse:

You have called it Air Swedin on your gallery.


Chris

In reply to UKC News:
I am impressed but could anybody tell me what Ruby's Cafe would get in UK trad?
I'm guessing about E6/7??

In reply to Keeg:

At least I imagine. Very impressive. I think her ticklist in Squamish last year was about as good as any brit, full stop.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

@Chris: I have followed the guidebook in this. I suspect this is the real name, as the lower section is also called "Swedin Ringle".

@Keeg: I would say a solid E7, though it should be mentioned that it's a bit easier for people with small hands. This is a shot of it: http://www.aperturefirst.org/index.php?showimage=935 (climber is Andres Marin and hanging photographer Andrew Burr).

In reply to Alex Buisse:
In that case I am not just impressed but very impressed. Nice one.

In reply to Alex Buisse:

That's fine, I thought it was a typo you had missed. Nice shots btw!

Chris

In reply to UKC News:
holy shit thats quite a send. Air Sweden loosk soo heinous. Hats off

In reply to UKC News:
Yeah, impressive news. Seeing both routes in Return to Sender - Parallelojams feature shows how impressive they are and to hear of cool sends by local types makes palm sweating news ... want to get out there! Air Swedin looks to have bags of exposure and be uttery technical - so easy to muff. And Ruby's Cafe onsight is very cool given Mica Dash's comments in Parallelojams about it being so crucial to hit all of the locks perfectly (and then have the cheek to say that when that happens it feels like 5.12!), so much harder first go. Gotta have the right sized fingies to be happy out there
Keep on ticking Hazel!
Simon