UKC

Hi

I'm done with sport climbing in Europe after being on the road for 6 months. I'd like to do some trad on nice long routes (england is therefore out of the question) before I hit up on Lofoten in late June. Any recommendations? All help will be greatly appreciated. Preferably granite, but limestone could be possible.

In reply to eivindf:
Orco or Mello

In reply to eivindf:

Costa Blanca (limestone) or Majorca (limestone) or Corsica (granite)

Man, you can't miss Naranjo de Bulnes. Asturias (Spain)
It's alpine limestone. Massive up to 14 pitches.
see the link below.

youtube.com/watch?v=hOEhPpj3tSk&

Is the video of a 9A trad but there are routes from V.

Riglos in Huesca (Spain) is another nice place.

youtube.com/watch?v=ed4YPA2z_fo&

In reply to eivindf:

Dent d'orlu in the Ariege still has some unbolted stuff i believe.

In reply to Angel:

I believe the majority of the decent stuff at Riglos is bolted nowadays.


Chris

In reply to eivindf: Slovak Tatry for great Trad routes on wonderful granite. they'd started bolting descents to minor extent when i was there last but great sweeps of rock with not a twinkling bolt in sight. Zleta Stena (Yellow Wall) just below Teryho Chata is a mindboggling diamond shaped face; we did the easiest line, about VS but some serious route-finding and exposure. There are about 13 guidebooks to the slovak side in slovak but some good translations of selected were beginning to appear and have been discussed in previous threads.
stay in the huts @ about £10per night for dinnner b&b, no camping/bivvying allowed and quite well adhered to/monitered as this is a beautiful national park. no choppers- all hut stuff is sherpa carried. fly to poprad & use public transport- all excellent & easy& v cheap. we treated ourselves to hotels @ about £25pp b&b when we came off the hills. 4000m of rock in 3 weeks and not another soul on any crags. Polish side was crowded and pegs have been left so route-finding was easy. climbing superb though.