UKC

I’m seem to be consolidating at HVS, (E1 is still elusive). From what I understand my trad grade has reached a point where I can start to get something out of sea cliff climbing (reasonable number of quality routes at the right grade).
I quite like limestone but I’ve never climbed on sea cliffs before and I am thinking of taking a long weekend this summer to somewhere by the sea to climb.

I’m aware of various areas: Pembroke, The Gower, North Wales, Swanage, Lundy and of course the far SW - the list is very long. I know that there is plenty in Scotland but have a feeling it’s quite a long way North – correct me if I’m wrong

So, any recommendations for a suitable area - VS-HVS, plenty of quality, reasonable introduction

I’m based in Newcastle so Pembroke could be done but I think Cornwall is a bit far!!

Cheers

Mark

In reply to The Mole: Scotland isn't that bad from Newcastle, Reiff and Sheigra alone are worth the trip.

In reply to Steve Perry:

Scotland's always worth the drive.

Reiff's great, but if you've got the weather, you'd be better stopping at Stac Pollaidh (not a sea cliff) before you get there.

Sheigra is a great place, but we got rained off for a full two days

Skye would be a good bet too, with Flodigarry, Kilt Rock, Neist, Elgol etc...

you'll save a hour or more if you go to the culm rather than West Cornwall - great climbing there too

In reply to Steve Perry:

I think its closer to Gogarth from Newcastle than it is to Reiff. Fastcastle just south of Edinburgh would be doable from Newcastle in a day and are quite friendly. Pembroke is limestone and brilliant, Gogarth is excellent as well (not limestone).

In reply to The Mole: An extensive recent thread on sub E grade sea cliff classics:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=404215&v=1#x5819803

In reply to all: It would seem that Newcastle is about as far from suitable Sea Cliffs as one can get!!

Gogarth: 4:30
Pembroke 7:00
Reif: 7:00
Sheigra: 8:00

I should have mentioned that likely climbing partner is based In Leeds which tends to favour E&W.

Thanks for the replies, keep em coming!

m

In reply to The Mole:

The north Aberdeen coast has a good collection of granite seacliffs with plenty to go at in the grade range you're after. Meikle Partans (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1939) and Fulmar Wall (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=187) would probably be a good place to start (and don't have any problems with seabirds), but there are other crags a little further north that would also keep you entertained e.g. Harper's Wall, Aligator Ridge, Souter's Hole and Hidden Inlet.

In reply to The Mole:

Oh, and you're probably about 4(ish) hours from Newcastle to the north Aberdeen coast. There are also seacliffs south of Aberdeen which might be of interest (and are about an hour closer to Newcastle) - Clashrodney is particularly good at VS - E1 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=181), but Floor's Craig, Souter Head and South Cove might be worth a look.

In reply to The Mole: Gogarth gets my vote! Dreaming of white horses is an awesome route. I did it as a second about 8 years ago way before I had even led a trad route and it still remains one of the best routes I have ever experienced. I am planning to go back this summer to do it properly!

Awesome setting and great exposure. It's hvs 4c so not too technical you just need to be confident with your rope work on multi pitch and there is a traverse section where you need to make sure you adequately protect your second! Don't let that put you off though it is a great route and a great experience!