UKC

NEWS: Sonnie Trotter - New 5.14 Trad Route

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 UKC News 28 May 2010
[Sonnie Trotter working his new route Sugar Daddy on top rope, 2 kb]Sonnie Trotter, the Canadian climber best known in the UK for his repeat of Rhapsody (E11, Dumbarton) has succeeded on his project at Squamish, Canada.

"It's the sort of feature you look up at and WISH it had holds on it. This one did, but barely.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53785

 remus Global Crag Moderator 28 May 2010
In reply to UKC News: What an awesome line!
 niggle 28 May 2010
In reply to remus:

Isn't it?

I have to disagree with Sonnie though (speaking of course from my, ahem, extensive experience of cutting edge trad climbing) - I'm not sure even the strongest bouldering monsters would find V11 "easy" while trying to place gear!

Serpico 28 May 2010
In reply to niggle:
> (In reply to remus)
>
> Isn't it?
>
> I'm not sure even the strongest bouldering monsters would find V11 "easy" while trying to place gear!
>
You're presuming there's any gear to place.

 niggle 28 May 2010
In reply to Serpico:

Fair play! But it looks like there is in the photo.
 220bpm 28 May 2010
In reply to UKC News: Got to love Sonnies style and enthusiasm. His blog is one of the best out there.
Keep pulling hard dude!
 Enty 28 May 2010
In reply to niggle:

That photo's too small to see any placements.
Anyone know what the gear is?

E
 Bill Davidson 28 May 2010
In reply to niggle:

You're being nice cause your all loved up!
In reply to UKC News: he's a mentalist. love the commitment

'...so it might happen any day now, unless I tear a huge flapper, or blow out my elbows, both of which are highly possible, at the same time even."

quality! go on boyo!
In reply to niggle:
> Fair play! But it looks like there is in the photo.

I think (as the caption suggests) he's working the route in the photo, with pre-placed gear above him to give a top-rope. I don't think the actual line uses that gear. Could be wrong tho!
 niggle 28 May 2010
In reply to Paul Phillips:

> I don't think the actual line uses that gear.

You're right - I just checked his blog and there is gear, he says, "the gear goes in a horizontal crack behind a large flake about a body length below my feet" but its' not the gear he's using in the photo (although i wonder how he placed that?!?!?)



http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/
 niggle 28 May 2010
In reply to Bill Davidson:

Oh f*** off you gnarly old **** and shove your ***** up your ******ing **** and twist it round until your ******ing ***** seizes up and you have to **** your ****** with *******.

Better?

 Bill Davidson 28 May 2010
In reply to niggle:

Hmmmmmm, That's the niggle I know & luv Better watch tho or you'll be getting barred!
 Alex Buisse 28 May 2010
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
> (In reply to UKC News) he's a mentalist. love the commitment
>
> '...so it might happen any day now, unless I tear a huge flapper, or blow out my elbows, both of which are highly possible, at the same time even."
>
> quality! go on boyo!

That quote was referring to another line in Joshua Tree NP, which he finally sent yesterday!
 Michael Gordon 28 May 2010
In reply to niggle:
>
> You're right - I just checked his blog and there is gear, he says, "the gear goes in a horizontal crack behind a large flake about a body length below my feet"

Still sounds pretty bold!

 James Oswald 28 May 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome lead.
The direct start is even better looking - going up the prow.
James
 Michael Gordon 28 May 2010
In reply to James Oswald:

what prow? is there another photo somewhere?
 Enty 28 May 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Awesome lead.
> The direct start is even better looking - going up the prow.
> James

This thread is hilarious, you're the 2nd poster who doesn't have a clue what is going on.

E
 Franco Cookson 28 May 2010
In reply to Enty:

to be fair the two photos on his blog make the route look totally different- one a blunt arete and the other a possitive steep sharp fin.
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