Conrack says...
Nalle, you are wrong.
Professional and weekend climbers alike all relate climbing to art, finding the line, having the vision to see moves going down, working the painting, clay, spray paint, sculpture, novel, rock etc. until the final work is completed to the best of the original artists interpretation.
I don't understand why every other single sport in the world, ego is accepted, understood and ultimately expected. Sharma is the Michael Jordan of climbing, he has opened the most difficult routes in the world, he's the only climber in the world with a major shoe brand marketing shoes off of his name, why shouldn't his ego come into play regarding possibly THE most difficult route in the world? It is entirely human nature to have an ego, to thrive off of said ego. You wouldn't even contemplate the possibility of trying frfm if your ego weren't inflated enough to believe you could climb the hardest route in the world, ESPECIALLY when you don't even climb routes! It's as if climbers try to be so far from the mainstream that they end up being entirely hypocritical.
You can't be an accomplished artist without believing you're work is at the very least respected, and more likely, admired.
Think of FRFM as the fresco that adorns the sistine chapel created by Michelangelo; four years of work to create arguably the greatest work of art in history, frfm is possibly the first 9b+ in the world, almost two years of work in the making. Now imagine one of michelangelo's peers inviting himself after 3 years of work to add his own flair to it without an invite from the original artist, wouldn't it make sense for michelangelo to ask for more time to finish it before the peer had a chance?
Nalle you say you don't understand why people are attacking you for your point of view, if you simply stated that chris is wrong, and that you don't respect chris's view on this matter, you wouldn't be a hypocrite. You argue that you respected chris's wishes and were more than honorable. Yet you continue to argue that chris is in the wrong for trying to finish the artwork he viewed, cleaned, and has dedicated himself to .. just because you say, 'i somewhat understand why chris didn't want me climbing his route..' doesn't mean you have respected chris's wishes. taking potshots at chris through your blog is childish and cowardly. "I find it interesting how I'm being judged for doing absolutely nothing at all, except respecting Chris's request and the effort he has put in the route." if you actually respected his wishes and the effort he put into the route, you wouldn't be acting in this manner.
You argue that it would've been entirely a different situation had BigUp prefaced the airing of frfm with a 'closed route' warning. You expect the climbing community to believe you go to the single greatest concentration of hard, bouldery sport routes in the world only content on working the most hyped up route in the world? And have no intention of benefiting from the media coverage from said route?
there is one hundred percent difference between dg climbing the redtagged girl talk, which amounted to 8c+, and frfm 9b+? media sensationalism and coverage, sponsorship, and ego.
Nalle, you're in incredibly gifted boulderer, when you work on a 9a super hyped boulder problem for 2 years and someone tries to swoop in and take it from you, then you'll understand. Until then, either stay off a rope or put in the effort to create your own routes.