UKC

Dai Koyamada took off on his month long trip to Switzerland about a week ago, and he's been crushing hard.He quickly worked out all the moves of Toni Lamprecht's The Dagger, 8B+, on his first day at Cresciano and sent it on his 2nd day. He also mentions that he sort of got all the moves...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54459

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users

Dr. Pinch is a guidebook misprint - much closer to 7C+, as indicated by many who have registered the ascent on 8a...

Makes sense as Day said it felt super easy. Thanks

Malcom Smith then Dai... I guess strong boulderers never really retire!

Of course he will go after the story of two worlds! It is arguably the biggest trophy out there, the legendary "hardest in the world" problem that remains unrepeated despite efforts from basically everyone remotely theoretically capable. That would really be the crowning of a fantastic career.

Hoshi

Bjorn, don't you get tired to see ~80% of your news on 8a.nu (without the source, most of the time) systematically few hours after you publish them ?

Gambatte!

This time the idiot showed completely his lack of brain as he copyed a piece of news no other site had published beforeevitter (other than in japanese).

Jens next time you should at least check if you can lie about where you find the news you steal from Bjorn . If you´re going to cheat try at least to learn how to.

Hey! I published a good part of this news the first (If you forget the Dai's blog)

http://stikkit.tk/nouvelles/a-la-une/573-koyamada-en-suisse

19th april...

Interesting Lewis, but with all respect I seriously doubt Jens aupdates his information from your blog nor he can read french.

Funny though that Jens is one of the most engaged readers of this blog which he otherwise tells is the root of all evil. He is so fond of Bjorns news he immediately reports it in his own shite

So what's the deal with The Story of Two Worlds being called 'the new standard for 8C'? It may be hard but it's also a terrible problem. Paul Robinson calls it 'a complete turd' and Dai apparantly isn't particularly excited about investing time in it even if he could figure out where it actually starts.
With so many beautiful hard problems out there, do we really need this heap of junk as a 'standard'? I think you can only call something a standard if enough strong climbers get motivated to try it, instead of them walking away from it because it's a dabby non-obvious line

For me, I always try to repport my source and I take a news from a others website.

The Bjorn's website is very important for the community.

Thanks man!