UKC

Again, when I thought he couldn't surprise me again, he does it... again. Now, Adam Ondra has made the ultra coveted 2nd ascent of Eric Talmadge's Im Reich des Shogun, at Tüfleten, Swizzy, given 9a, but rumoured to be harder after having been tried by many world class climbers without success....

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54719

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users

hahaha! awsome! Ondra ftw!

Haha! Good reporting. Jens could learn a thing or two.

he cured my sore-heel last week in belgium...he is the true messiah =)

awesome

Congrats to Adam. All the routes he has done in the 'Basler Jura' are estimated to be condition depending, extremely technical and difficult to read... He evidently does'nt care about that.

To your info: Eric was very hesitant to give the 9a grade for 'Shogun' because of lacking possibilities to compare the route with others. And he didn't work the route over 13 years constantly ... He bolted it back in 1987 and completed it in 2000. During this period he also traveled around and had to take some breaks from climbing as a result of hand and finger injuries. It's true that he was very obsessed with the route the last 7 years before the send, including a hard training and dieting regime. He had perfect copies of the moves at his home training wall and went out to the route only at superperfect conditions (wich are rare)...