UKC

The story goes as follows: In 2006, Dave MacLeod made the FA of Rhapsody, E11 or 8c/+ S, on Dumbarton rock not far from Glasgow, Scotland. The ascent was significant in the sense that it was the first "real" route to be given a grade above E10. By "real" I mean it's not a boulder route like Blind...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55015

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users

So fucking what? Get out and climb.

Yikes. I'm actually going to Göteborg in January to see a friend. Any hope at all of doing anything outside? Hiking, climbing?

I agree that McClure didn't climb the full value Rhapsody that Dave and Sonnie did. Dave has, according to his blog, also done the route that McClure did, and guesses E10. Steve seemed to be after the most natural line, while Sonnie and Dave were after the hardest climbing. Props to any of them, I think, but Steve McClure can't claim to have sent the actual 'Rhapsody, E11'. Although I agree with anonymous that we should get out and climb.

I would go out and climb, but it's +2, dark and raining. Chances are it will stay this way until April...

Well my anonymous friend, of course you're right in a way. Dave can climb whatever he wants and call it whatever. It's not like he's been dishonest about the style of the ascent or how the line goes. The question is rather what makes a route. Who defines what's on and off?

I live in Stockholm, but I guess the weather is pretty much the same on the west coast. I'm sure there's plenty to do.