UKC

Hi all,

There is nothing like first hand Knowledge, and as i only have the guide book i was wondering if anybody has been, and is willing to give me some local knowlege? I have been to Norway before but never to Lofoten.

i.e, best time of year for rock climbing......Camping.........prices.......transport......gear we will need.....weather...... etc etc etc.

We plan on a 2 week rock climbing trip next year.

Look forward to hearing from you all,

cheers

kev

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

I could give you all my knowledge distilled from half a dozen visits, but you already have it!


Chris

so the guide book is the true power then? read read and read again........

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

Chris wrote the book. He put all his knowledge from half a dozen visits into the book. You read the book. How can that be anything but first hand knowledge?

In reply to wirralclimber1984: Email me and I'll send you a trip report I'm writing from last year.

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

Lots - pitches are long - normally 45-50 mtrs on the bigger routes and the climbing can be sustained. I'd aim for a double set of nuts plus maybe a few more; a full set of cams plus doubles in a mid sizes, and I'd recommend 3-4 hexes or similar so that you can build belays with them and keep the cams for placing on the lead.

I've done most of my climbing there in just a baselayer on top and softshell trousers, but have a few light weight mountain rock layers with you - a windshell, a micro fleece, light hat and gloves, and a paclite shell or similar.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I just got the guidebook too. Very nice. Does the whole island really smell of fish?

In reply to KeithAlexander: No, well, it depends on the wind direction. Those fish racks really do reek though.

In reply to wirralclimber1984: I've lived in Lofoten for a year, and I can guarantee you that the book Chris Craggs and Torbjørn wrote has all the knowledge you'd want. Main campsites are Kalle, Djupfjorden and Festvåg/Gandalfveggen. All of which have water. At Djupfjord you have to walk the road in direction to Henningsvær. You'll quickly see running water on your left side. Please DO NOT use the ground as a toilet, do this stuff in a toilet at the village, or point your behind to the ocean. Keep your toilet paper and/or burn it. DO NOT throw toilet paper in the ocean... It's very easy to hitchhike in Lofoten, people in Northern Norway are very friendly and eager to get to know you. The island doesn't reek of dried fish. Have fun!

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

If you can afford a hire car, that will make everything a bit more efficient - we did it without a car last year, and spent quite a bit of time hitching. We stayed below gandalf which is best if your carless. Without a car, it took us 2 days travelling either way, camping at the airport.

Lots of gear as the previous poster said, the more cams the better - protection is generally really good.

We were there in August last year, got a bit rainy towards the end...probs july is most popular.

Do westpilleren, it's amazing!

Fish from the bridges when you can see schools of cod below them.

It's a really friendly a beautiful place. Enjoy!

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

I was being a little cheeky with my 'guidebook' reply (needed a smiley!).

Things that have changed that I am aware of:

Since the Lofast road connected the islands to the mainland the Skutkiv ferry is much reduced.

There is a new shiny toilet block in the car-park in Henningsvaer.

The place is much busier than even a few years ago!

New route/corrections info here (free download) - http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=172

Hope this helps.


Chris

In reply to wirralclimber1984:

I've been to Lofoten armed with the rockfax guide. It was excellent and I can't answer any of the questions better than the information in the guide. Is there something specific you want to know?

In reply to wirralclimber1984:
Agree with Tony B, The guide book is excellent as is chatting to other climbers at the cafe in Henningsvær.
I was there last year, Fantastic, Im going again in July, my friend lives there and rents out a car or 2. From fear of having this post removed I better be careful about what i write, as a moderator might think im advertising.
He's in Reine. I can send you a link if you like.