UKC

NOW WITH VIDEO:: Tim Emmett - Pembroke E10 - Full Story

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 UKC News 08 Jun 2010
[YES! Tim Emmett - a happy man, on the flat grassy top of Stennis Ford - SAFE!, 2 kb]Full details and photos of Tim Emmett's new route at Pembroke:


“The section to the gear would warrant E9 in its own right, featuring F8a climbing in a very dangerous position...

...The crux comes after the gear and is the equivalent of a V7 boulder problem. It bumps the whole route up to F8b..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55339

 Adam Lincoln 08 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Effort Timmy. G-dumping sounds interesting.
In reply to UKC News:

Good info and also the surrounding routes. An appropriate name too (although I'd already put a bet on it being "Spicy Times". Oh well!

Bet we're going to here no end of questions about glycogen dumping now. Everyone loves a short cut and would rather know about this than the hard work that he's put in over the years.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Evidence on the net (so reliable) says it works but you put more weight on afterwards.
 Adam Lincoln 08 Jun 2010
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) Evidence on the net (so reliable) says it works but you put more weight on afterwards.

Yes, am aware of what it is. My comment was meant more of a, seems to be becoming popular 'kind of interesting'.

In reply to UKC News:

Jeez ...damned fine effort Tim .... It's a bit of a pant filler just reading about it..... phew...
 aln 08 Jun 2010
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Bet we're going to here no end of questions about glycogen dumping now.
I have a question about glycogen dumping. Why are you talking about it? I've read the article twice and don't see any reference to it.
 screenager 08 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

This looked amazing in Welsh Connections. I wish UKC wouldn't say super route though; this isn't Top Gear.
 chris_j_s 08 Jun 2010
In reply to aln:
> (In reply to TomPR)
> [...]
> I have a question about glycogen dumping. Why are you talking about it? I've read the article twice and don't see any reference to it.

Tim mentions it in his blog entry over on the planet fear website.

http://www.planetfear.com/blog.php?id=240
 aln 08 Jun 2010
In reply to chris_j_s: Ta.
 Jack Geldard 08 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News: I just found an awesome extract from the Welsh Connections DVD by Bamboo Chicken - on vimeo.

This vid features Tim on the E8 Point Blank and then attempting his project.

It's a really good bit of film.

It's now in the news item (Refresh your browser) and also on thehome page and also here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=230
 Will Goldsmith 08 Jun 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Nice one on getting the video up. Me and Doug were sat across the ford watching this happen. I really thought he had blown it at the end of the runout! Very scary to watch indeed!
 TobyA 08 Jun 2010
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Effin' brilliant video! I felt quite queasy watching him slap some of those moves before the Rock 6. Well done to Tim and the film team.
In reply to UKC News:
Thanks for posting the link to the Video, very interesting, gives a great perspective, I was there on Sunday when he was setting of up the route and he was making it look easy up to the first gear. Unfortuneatley I had to head back to work so missed the main event.

Very impressive.

Martin
In reply to UKC News:
There were two video cameras there this sunday so I guess we'll be seeing footage of the sucessful ascent sometime.

Martin
 Jonny2vests 09 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Best video in ages. And Tim is such a likeable and approachable guy; mega psyched but down to earth at the same time. Couldn't wish it on a nicer bloke, good effort Timmy.
 Lurkio 09 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Superb and terrifying video. As one who thinks most climbing films are as dull as dish-water, I have to say I found this one gripping.

Cheers
 nniff 09 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Tremendous video - so much more engaging than the many soulless bolt clipping and narcissistic bouldering ones
 turtlespit 09 Jun 2010
It is a great video - will be awesome to see Tim completing the route.

Side topic on great climbing videos - also from Welsh Connections is the short "To the Rainbow". Would recommend this to climbers and non-climbers as a truly inspirational short film.
 Jamie B 09 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent video, excellent achievement. It certainly looks like E10. I liked the "spicy times" comment mid-runout!
 EZ 09 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Outstanding.
 Rich Kirby 09 Jun 2010
In reply to EZ:

Really inspiring. I see Ghost Train has had some attention.....

Any knowledge on how clean it is/many ascents this year?
 steveP 10 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome video - good work!
 thomasadixon 10 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Wicked video. So disappointing to see him fail right at the end!

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