UKC

I'm planning a climbing trip to Britain next august. Since I found very useful the "Best E1 in Britain" topic (you know, checking route names, pictures, locations...), I'd like to go one step forward, so any suggestions to the best (or among the best) E2 in Britain?

In reply to tgna:

Left Wall

In reply to Exile:

Left Wall isn't even the best E2 in North Wales!

The usual suspects: Shibboleth, Saxon, Vector.

ALC

In reply to tgna:

sula-mingulay
angel face-beinn eighe
the bug-tollaidh

In reply to a lakeland climber:

I'll take your word for it, I've not done many in N. Wales, however I enjoyed it. Did like Vector too though.

In reply to a lakeland climber: I was disapointed with Vector. I thought Weaver was a much better line and climb.

In reply to craggyjim: Yeah vector is a bit unbalanced, pound for pound left wall is better.

In reply to Morgan Woods: wow, in the pictures, left wall looks superb!!

In reply to tgna:

Steeple, Shelter Stone Crag

In reply to Exile:

Not as good as The Bug on Craeg Toilladh(?)

Mousetrap - for a non-standard experience!
Deep Space/Lucky Strike

In reply to tgna:

The Goblin King at Goblin Combe is awesome.

Quietus, The Rasp and Regent Street are all awesome grit E2s.

I thought both Weaver and Vector were pretty average

In reply to tgna: easy, it's: Prophecy of Drowning on Pabbay in the Hebrides.

Unfortunately it is epic to get to and August is not the best month for a visit (midgies) - can't you reschedule for May/June? Also, the last few years have seen a regular pattern of good weather in the spring - early summer period; come August it might well be raining.

On a more general note - North Wales has the highest concentration and greatest diversity of classic routes in a tight geographical area. Plenty of bad weather options (Tremadog, Lleyn, Gogarth, Ormes, Slate) too should the usual August rain blight your trip.

In reply to Exile: the UK's move over-rated route? great position and great crag yes but a plod to a few metres of crack climbing and then a nonsense escape leftwards.

In reply to tgna: Personally I found Left Wall a bit boring and repetitive, while I giggled my way up the whole of Vector, gorgeous route! Lets chuck in my S.Wales choices of Deranged [St Govans], Quiet Waters Direct [Hunstmans] and Brazen Buttress [Mother Careys]. Mind you Out of the Blue [Lowersharpnose] and Destiny [Landing Craft Bay, Lundy] are stunners from the SW.

In reply to ksjs:

Loving the Pembroke suggestions. Lucky Strike is just mind bogglingly brilliant, I really wanted to just abb in and do it again, but it has to be E1. Also Depraved is the poorer (E1) sibling to Derranged which is next door and E2 and brilliant, odd line but stunning climbing that keeps throwing it at you. I loved Pull My Daisy as well.

Haven't done LW or Vector but desperately want to!

In reply to spacey:

Oh and right up there for me is Resolution Direct Gogarth Main Cliff, great line covering some stunning territory.

In reply to spacey: no, Depraved is knocking on the door of E3 and is superb; higher quality than Deranged.

I would suggest some of the Pabbay routes, but they're kind of cheating as they're not really "in" Britain and too hard to get to be realistic suggestions for the average trip. So instead I'll go with Torro on Ben Nevis for my pick. Long route, huge exposure, lots of pitches all at the grade each of quite different character and not over till you are virtually on top. What more could you want.

Other belters would be Shilbolleth with the true finish and Saxon on Scafell.

Central pillar on Esk is probably up there with the best as well

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Wow, that must be quite a traverse!

In reply to Simon Panton: I know august is risky because the weather, but we have to meet a very busy friend in Keswick in any moment of the trip, so this topic provides us useful information for taking advantage of any good weather window. Hebrides? we'll take in account for the next time

In reply to ksjs:

Fair enough, was going off this http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24803 and the old rockfax guide. I see on the rockfax database it is now up to E2 with comments about it pushing E3. So I stand corrected. If it's better than Deranged it must be some route!

In reply to tgna:

Steeple and Central Pillar are very good, and arguably have the best outlook (particularly Steeple).

But Mr Panton is on the money. Prophesy of Drowning has the best climbing and the best name.

Neil

In reply to tgna:

'Best' is very subjective, but trying to think back to the most memorable of the ones I've done they tend to be sea cliff classics. Desolation Row (Great Zawn, Bosigran), Eroica (Pentire, but I'm not sure what the current peg/grade situation is here) and the Strand (Gogarth) stand out for position, atmosphere and being completely absorbing in their own ways. Loads at Pembroke but I'd go for Chimes of Freedom for the memories, though First Blood is a cracker and very satisfying technically.

North Devon is great but I don't seem to be able to come up with anything really outstanding at E2.

In reply to spacey: honestly, it really is very good, one of the best ive done at Pembroke, really varied with a beefy start, technical groove and short but lovely wall to finish. 3 stars all the way...

In reply to ksjs:
The Conger.

In reply to tgna: Really enjoyed Bow Wall at bosigran, and Scoop Wall at stoney was very entertaining.

In reply to gazhbo:


Goblin King is better than Vector?

Vectors probably not the best but it's a masterpiece of route finding and packed full of character - what's not to like?!

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Make the sure the tides in!

In reply to tgna:

Of those I've done so far, mostly in Scotland, the classic Pabbay and Diabaig ones, and Torro, are all amazing.

But my pick would go to The Bug on Upper Tollie Crag. Long, varied pitch in a beautiful setting overlooking Fisherfield, outstanding.

In reply to dave o:

Do you think Sula is the best E2 in the Hebrides? Did you do U-Ei?

In reply to Simon Panton: Almost everyone I knwo who has done Prophecy and U-Ei have rated U-Ei as better. I've only done Prophecy. U-Ei must be one hell of a route!

And whoever added Steeple - the last pitch must be situated one one of the best locations in UK. Classic.

In reply to Fultonius:

I don't know whether U-Ei is better than Prophecy, I suspect some people say so just because Prophecy is hyped so much, but there's no doubt it's also excellent.

In reply to Fultonius:

It is...

...but Prophecy is better!

Neil

In reply to tgna: Another vote for Vector, also a couple of Peak classics Darius and Five Finger Exercise.
Jon

In reply to andy moles: I have wondered that in the past - PoD very hyped so everyone is expecting more, U-Ei not so hyped, unexpectedly good?

In reply to tgna:

If the sound of granite with some Killas Slate thrown in, and all above a crystal clear blue Atlantic Ocean swell sounds inviting... then consider these:

Xanadu (Great Zawn)
Thane (Kenidjack) (Killas Slate)
Golva (Sennen)
Samson's Arete (Sennen)
Delilah (Sennen)
Caesar's Groove (Land's End)
Edge of Light (Land's End)
Stone Boom (Pordenack Point)
Teacher's Pet (Carn Les Boel)
One Way Ticket (Pendower Buttress)
Geireagle 2 (Carn Barra)
Smash and Grab (Carn Barra)
Illustrated Man (Carn Barra)
The Music Man (Folly Cove)
The West Face Route (Chair Ladder)
Bishop's Rib Direst (Chair Ladder)
Ebony Crack (Hella Point)
Devil's Meridian (St. Levans Wall)

All can be found in the Climber's Club Guide "West Cornwall" and if you can get your hands on one..."Cornish Rock"

Nice thing is, this lot are super close to each other, without the feeling of being in the same place.

Mark

In reply to tgna:
Quartz Icicle, Wen zawn, big G

Samba Pa Ti, A buttress, Dow

Commander Energy, Roaches Lower

Pull My Daisy, Rainbow Slab, Llanberis Slate

The Weaver/Vector can't make my mind up Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog (the grasper is good too)

SS Special, Clogwyn y Grochan, Llanberis Pass

Yellow Wall, Craig Ddu, Llanberis Pass

Mousetrap, Mousetrap Zawn, Big G

Suicide Wall Route 2, Idwal (not done route 1 but that looks even better)

Not all THE best but some fine pitches full of intersting climbing or brilliant experiances (the climbing may be dirty, loose, bold or awkward but i often find these to be the best routes!
have fun dude!

In reply to andy moles:

i felt let down by prophecy, probably just because of the hype as it is undoubtedly a great route.

also reckoned it was about hvs/e1 so didn't find it as 'challenging' as i suppose i had hoped.

u-ei is great, but probably not one of the greatest....although the ab in is!!

i forgot to include the long reach, which is e2 and i don't care what anyone says!!

also

travelin man-nevis
elegy-roaches
bloodlust direct-sheigra
gudgeon-tollaidh
northumberland wall-diabaig
lady jane-coe

and many more i have yet to do.....

In reply to Fultonius:

sula is the best in the islands, which means it is therefore the best in the world!!

In reply to tgna:
Another vote for The Weaver.

Best route on Weaver Butress, as someone I used to climb with stated frequently.

In reply to dave o:
another vote for U-Ei over both the others, especially with the 100m free ab approach

In reply to tgna:

Pull My Daisy

Ten Degrees North

Left Wall

Suicide Wall Route 1

Vector

Grasper

The Wasp

The Strand

In reply to mr mills: no votes for shrike ?

In reply to jas wood:

Not done Shrike jas ! My mate did it this week and said it was really good ! Hope to get up there soon...

In reply to tgna: The Steeple, Shelterstone.

In reply to Fultonius:

It is beyond me how anyone could rate U-Ei as better than Prophecy. The Paradise Regained/U-Ei combination is significantly better than U-Ei, but still does not come close to Prophecy in my opinion. I thought the first two pitches of U-Ei were pretty mediocre by Pabbay standards.

In reply to tgna:

Quick mention for Diabaig Pillar, not claiming it's the best - I've not done enough - but it's well good aye

In reply to dave o: Hear hear! Voyage of Faith is ranking up to be one of my best ever E3s. In fact, if I never get to climb again (possible) then I can retire happy!!!

In reply to tgna:

Another vote for Weaver. Complements Vector perfectly - it could hardly be more different, yet in some ways it's even better.

In reply to Southern Man:

Just checked the photos of Diabaig Pillar, not heard of it before and it looks freaking amazing and right my style too. Whats the pro like?

In reply to tgna:

The Long Reach on the Etive Slabs hasn't been mentioned yet? Pretty sure its generally regarded as E2 these days. One of the most 'out-there' feelings ever when you're in the middle of the main slab. A true adventure.

The Strand at Gogarth is also excellent for a single pitch - long sustained and gets continually harder til almost the top.

In reply to tgna:

Glad to see that this hasn't turned into another "they're all on the grit" threads.

Millenium on Foinaven is certainly one of the most memorable though I'd struggle to say best!

I don't think anyone else has said King Kong on Carn Dearg though all of those 'big three' (The Bat and Torro being the others) are equally good.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Youve not heard of Diabaig Pillar? have you only just started climbing?

Good but slightly spaced protection. Sustained. Superb.

In reply to tgna:

Left Wall is excellent.

In reply to tgna: Prophesy of Drowning. No contest

In reply to Fultonius:

I thought that Les Voyageurs was even better...... hard though that might be to believe. Better line, and if you thought the top pitch of Voyage was exposed.......

In reply to tgna:

It's Elegy.

In reply to tgna:

Darker Angel, Cadair Idris, Mid Wales.

A striking multi pitch line in a stunning location with fine positions and climbing.

Sacre Couer for best of its genre.

In reply to Owen W-G: Ah yes, Sacre bloody fantastic Coeur and, don't forget Mercury at Carn Gowla.

In reply to Chris_Mellor: What about Silver Shadow at Pembroke?

In reply to tgna:

Another vote for The Weaver, and Sacre Coeur, although that looked smaller than I expected when I saw it. Left Wall too.

In reply to Fultonius:
Almost everyone I know who has done Prophecy and U-Ei have rated U-Ei as better. I've only done Prophecy. U-Ei must be one hell of a route!

I've done both. I thought Prophecy was better (would probably get my vote as best route of that grade).... U-Ei is not exactly rubbish either right enough though.

Runners up for me would be:

Torro on Cran Dearg
Ichabod or Saxon, Scafell
Steeple, Shelterstone (though even better to start up The Needle and move over into Steeple after the 2nd 5b pitch for the ultimate combo).

In reply to Dark Mavis:

But somehow unsatisfying at the top - the Bug is better.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I disagree Always thought the bug is a bit overrated...nice, but nothing special.

In reply to tgna:

Here are just a few of my favourite ones in no particular order:

Torro, Steeple, Shibboleth, Central PIllar Esk Buttress, The Pillar on Diabaig, Bloodlust Direct, Saxon, Angel Face, Resolution Direct

In reply to tgna:

Shibboleth
The Hill
Plague of Blazes

In reply to Removed User:
Oh yeah, I forgot to add The Hill or Over The Hill!

In reply to tgna: From the rave reviews of my mates on a recent trip to Mungulay, I would say Sula on Dun Mingulay.

In reply to hexcentric: IMHO Shibboleth with the true finish is a sandbag at E2. When I did it (some years ago) the belay before the final pitch was poor - a microwire I recall. This was followed by a long unprotected traverse to the final crack where some old tat was gratefully clipped. All rather serious - the lower pitches were a breeze in comparison. Cannot understand how it continues to get E2 unless gear improvements have made it safer in the last 20 years.

In reply to Heike:

Well there you go! I did them a few days apart and found the Bug slightly harder ( DP is more like E1) and slightly better. The Pillar still a great route though but there'll be mutli-pitch Scots routes better than both.

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

That.

In reply to crimple:


? We are talking about the same route right? The final belay was a couple of bomber wires and a cam I think, though a bit hanging (ie you couldn't sit on the best ledge as the good gear was too low) to be able to use the best stuff. The traverse wasn't that well protected, just one decent wire maybe a third of the way along it but then it's only 5b, so E2 seems totally fair to me.

In reply to tgna:
I'd second the vote for the Wasp - definitely the best of the E2s I've done at Tremadog which means it's better than either Vector or Pincushion.
I can't comment on many of the routes listed here but Fairhead has loads of fantastic E2s. Hurricane, The Brasser and Conchubair were all great but all paled behind Scorpion which is just one of those routes that everyone should do

In reply to hexcentric: I remember the stance was hanging but it sounds like the placements might have improved since I did it. The traverse is 5b but it's strenuous, long and with big fall potential by the time you reach the crack which gives the protected 5c bit. It's about 20 years since I did it but grade sandbags do tend to stick clearly in the mind.

In reply to tgna: What about The Ben? (Torro is very good, the crux being within the last few moves, right at the top of the last pitch...and I've heard King Kong is above average too, but I haven't done that one...)

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I agree with Heike. It seems all the rage to say the Bug is better than the Daibeg Pillar, but I don't really think the Bug is even the best E2 on that crag, let alone in Scotland (I thought Gudgeon was better). I guess its all pretty subjective though.

Personal favourites include Steeple, Angel Face and Torro, and South of the border I think Saxon must be the best I've done.

In reply to Mark Phillips:

King Kong is very good but Torro is better. King Kong sort of fizzles out after the 5th or 6th pitch whilst Torro goes out with a bang.

In reply to tgna:

Bit naughty of me, as I've already mentioned it in the 'Best E1' thread, because that's te grade it's given, but I reckon Jack the Ripper on Stac Pollaidh is E2 and it's so mind bogglingly awesome that it deserves a mention here. It's definitely harder (although altogether different) than Diabaig Pillar!

In reply to Pinkelephant: Know it's not the true tick but when I have done King Kong I have climbed it to the end of the 5th guidebook pitch and then traversed right along the terrace and gone down the Titans Wall abseils. Lets you do all the quality climbing and miss the "fizzle" above.

In reply to neil the weak:

That sounds like a very good idea - cos the top really wasn't that great! Will bear that in mind for the future!

In reply to neil the weak:

Oh, good idea - yeah alright it's not the full tick, but next time I would definitely go for your option!

In reply to spacey:
Really thought Resolution Direct was very average worth a star but no more than that.

In reply to Alex@home:
Nice to see Fairhead get a mention I went for the first time a couple of weeks ago and was completely blown away by the place. Think 2 Cromlechs stuck on top of each other or Pentire Head going on for a couple of miles and you get the idea of what its like.
We did Sandpiper which was as good an E2 as you will get anywhere Brasser is clearly brilliant. If Scorpion is even better it must be up there with the best.

In reply to Southern Man:

Don't think so, it was only a couple of difficult moves and they were not more then E1...but hey.
It's quite a pleasant route IMHO, but no match to anything like Torro, Steeple, Angelface, etc. It's only one difficult pitch anyways. But hey, things are very subjective.... Glad you enjoyed it!

In reply to Heike:

Cheers it was ace and in truth, I probably just need to get out more! We'd had all three of those routes you mention on our list for the two weeks, but it was still a bit snowy up high, very glad to get JTR done though, the others will wait...

In reply to crimple:

I thought Shibboleth was more like E4 even without the True Finish, frankly. I'm not sure how wet it's supposed to be to be only E2, though.

jcm

In reply to tgna:

Back on topic, The Black Cleft on Cloggy is a fine route in its style.

jcm

In reply to tgna:

N Cornwall : Mercury, But you would probably not want to repeat it.
Wye Valley : Kangaroo Wall. 3 Brilliant pitches
Pembroke : Loads to go at. Deranged, first blood and Brazen butress stand out for me
N Wales : Left wall

At which point I get out of territory. Enjoy your trip

In reply to tgna: Oh and white slab (cloggy) is a good one

In reply to tgna: wow, is awesome such amount of information! I'll be really busy until the date of my trip to process it. Thank you very much to all the UKC followers.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I did it after the benefit of a few weeks of dry spring weather and the 2nd pitch was still slightly wet. Standing below the 5c move I repeatedly dried a crucial foothold with a rag and watched it quickly get soaked from seepage springing out above. I took advantage of a 10 sec window before it got wet again after a wipe and managed to keep my shoes dry to complete the moves. Under these conditions E2 was fair enough, adding in the interest of the boldish 4th pitch. Any wetter though and I imagine it would feel a lot harder.

In reply to tgna:

Mars at Swanage has to count as one of the more memorable E2s. Interesting & daunting from bottom to top.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

"in its style"

"Was once climbing in Wales with Ron Fawcett and it had pissed it down solidly for a week. We decided that the route to go and do was Black Cleft on Cloggy, reasoning that as it’s always wet anyhow and got its XS grade for that state it would make no difference.

After nearly killing ourselves soloing to the bottom of the thing, Ron set off up the first pitch (after eyeing up a 'new line' on the right wall, now done) and proceeded to gain height as I gradually disappeared under a mass of dislodged grass sods and various other botanical and entomological specimens. Just as I was about to be buried alive in this onslaught of mud and detritus I felt a tug on the rope and realised Ron wanted me to follow the pitch. The water pouring down both from the sky and on the rock cleaned me off a treat and I set off on the pitch which was now a good few feet shorter than when Ron did it, I haven’t got a clue what grade the pitch would be in the dry but it was absolutely desperate. In some cases so much debris had been washed down and lodged back into the crack that I literally had to dig into it to find the nut placements so I could remove them.
When I got to the stance, Ron was pissing himself at the state of me, handed over the remaining rack and said "Off you go then".
Right you bastard I'll see how you like it. Less than 15ft up the crack and Ron was already virtually covered head to foot in the disgusting smelling gunge. I was hanging from a nut trying to dislodge a particularly stubborn grass overhang, and Ron said "what do you reckon we go down?"
" Yeh, I really am having fun but at this rate it'll be dark before we get to the top, there’s nobody else on the crag, we've as good as done it (there was about a 100ft to go at least)".
I lowered off leaving the nut and we abbed down and ran straight into Llyn Arddu with all our clothes on and just washed the mud and slime off it was strangely warm, like monsoon rain, or maybe by now we were delirious.
In the pub that night “Yeh great route, you wanna go and do it, but do it in the rain, it’s graded for being wet anyhow" :-0)
The next 12 days it was perfect weather"

In reply to Al Evans: great story al.

on topic mercury was an extradinary experiance, steeple the best, left wall annoyingly pumpy, shrike amazing but only 2 moves makes it E2.

resolution direct or otherwise was great but not as good as strand or Quartz Icicle.
commander energy has more variety but not as good as elegy. shiboleth and scoop wall scare me, torro and king kong inspire!

In reply to tgna:
U-Ei on Pabbay is probably the best E2 I've been on in the UK, better than Prophecy overall, but only just. Quite keen for Sula after whats been said!

Would really like to do The Bug, Angel Face, Shibboleth, Torro, Steeple etc... there are so many!

South of the border, Out of the Blue at Sharpnose Point was pretty good (despite falling right at the top), as was Keelhaul at Pembroke.

Have a good trip!

Trist

In reply to tgna: Pull my daisy (slate) is excellent and so is White slab on cloggy. There the best in Wales not sure about britain. Haven't done regent street but that looks awesome.

In reply to tgna: Try some of the Swanage E2's. They will keep you entertained for a few days. Ritz, Crackers, and a bunch of others. Swanage always a bit of an adventure

In reply to tgna:
Lundy at all grades above VS makes Tremadog and Slate pale a bit in comparison. Hard to find a more memorable trad climbing experience anywhere in the uk though Pabay & Mingulay would be as good. You might get norovirus or sit in a tent in the rain for a week if luck's against you though.
August/September is time to go, when the bird restrictions have ended.

In reply to tgna:
only done a few but my fave was Browns Eliminate

In reply to turnerk: Did Gypsy in the Aventura Area few weeks back, it was my first Swanage E2 - deffinately an adventure

In reply to tgna:

White Slab on Cloggy- simply brilliant, Extol on Dove Crag- an adventure, The Long Reach on Etive Slabs- wild runouts.

In reply to ksjs:

I agree Depraved is a very good route. And wow the first few moves are nails! Finishing slab means it's interesting all the way to the top. Probably not the best in Britain though!

In reply to tgna: Im definitely on the Fair Head theme for this one.

Id pick Cuchullain for the best E2 on the crag and by default amongst the best in the UK but there are plenty more to choose from and maybe its just because I had an awesome day out that day.

In reply to tgna:
Scoop Wall, Stoney

In reply to tgna:
Darius, High Tor

In reply to tgna:
Billy Whiz, Lawrencefield

In reply to tgna:
Regent St, Knightsbridge, Erb, all Millstone

In reply to robw007:

Are the best....in Britain?

Come on

In reply to tgna:
Mercury at Carn Gowla, it will knock your socks off
you need to leave a hanging rope for the belay at the top of the cliff as you will not have enough rope to stretch back to the good anchors and the abb in requires two ropes with swapping at the knot!
EPIC go do it!

In reply to tgna:

Torro on the Carn Dearg was really strenuous for me and i was seconding it tae,i remember getting feart traversing the edge of that slab on the second pitch ,awesome route in an awesome setting though as is the scary Shibboleth