UKC

NEWS: Dumbarton Buzzing - New Problems

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 UKC News 23 Jun 2010
[Alex Gorham on the final moves of his new line, Thoroughbred, 3 kb]Jen Randall reports on the current buzz around Dumbarton:

So far this season at Dumbarton Rock, a storm of new lines and hard ascents have been put up by a group of strong young bucks...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55844

 Jonathan Bean 23 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I've made a topo hopefully explaining these new link-ups. It's here if anyone fancies a look:

http://blog.dumby.info/

Jonathan

In reply to averysmallman: link-up-tastic!
 willackers 23 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC News:

vimeo.com/11918422

vimeo.com/12001967

vimeo.com/12535648

Here's some videos of the recent ascents.......
murdster 21 Jul 2010
In reply to UKC News:

There should be a policy of not reporting link-ups because the whole idea of them is just... well... crap to be honest, and a sad indication of the direction bouldering has taken.

"the hardest line on the face so far is a link of Nice and Sleazy into the crux of Malkied, creating Thoroughbred"

Anyone who does a link-up and gives it a new name is pathetic.

 @ndyM@rsh@ll 21 Jul 2010
In reply to murdster: why?
 Adam Lincoln 21 Jul 2010
In reply to murdster:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> Anyone who does a link-up and gives it a new name is pathetic.

See that is the thing about climbing. There are no rules.

 La benya 21 Jul 2010
In reply to murdster:

although he said it like an idiot i agree, link ups dont require a new name and grade... its like doing a wel established route, but giving it 8a instead f 7a, because you didnt use every other hold. fun at the time, worthwhile only to you, definately doesnt require a name
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 21 Jul 2010
In reply to mark_wellin: It's not really anything like that, for example pilgrimage in the cave is a link up of pre-existing problems, sections worth V6, V8ish,V9, V11ish, and V8 but together they result in a V14 which is massive and completely different in character to any of them.
 La benya 21 Jul 2010
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:
is there new climbing involved? is the length of the route greatly increased etc? there is a difference between combining routes to make a longer harder route, and just doing the start of one, middle of the next and top of another.

as i said, its fun to do, and good training/ climbing but the world doesnt need it to have another name, cos its not a new route
 Tyler 21 Jul 2010
In reply to mark_wellin:

What if the link up is 'the' line and the problems it links up are the arbitary ones?
 La benya 21 Jul 2010
In reply to Tyler:

hmmm, thats a good point.

but generally people dont sit down at a new boulder and do a strange eliminate wandering line... they do the most obvious line, crack, arete, line of pockets etc. but when the new line is the 'actual' line, dont most people just call it 'route direct'?
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 21 Jul 2010
In reply to mark_wellin: There were no moves that hadn't been done before, but none of the problems it links is more than 10 moves long, but the link covers 40+ feet of horizontal ceiling with some really hard climbing and was a world class effort when Malcolm Smith did the first and ascent and would still be world class to repeat. It is very easily worthy of a new name no new moves but an entirely new problem.
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 21 Jul 2010
In reply to mark_wellin: Lots of problems in the cave start at obvious good start and finish holds, cross sections of roof, and don't top out or finish at the lip of the cave.

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