UKC

What was britans first F9a

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 Quarryboy 12 Jul 2010
Dose anyone know what the first f9a in Brittan was? I have a suspicion that it was the "Big Bang" any other suggestions
 chris_j_s 12 Jul 2010
In reply to quarryboy:

Well, Total Eclipse at Malham is currently credited with the grade of 9a and was climbed in 95.

Big Bang was climbed in 96.

After that came Mutation in 98, Northern Lights in 2000 etc., etc.
 chris_j_s 12 Jul 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:

Has anybody taken a serious look at TE since its first ascent by the way?
In reply to chris_j_s:

As far as I know, Total Eclipse holds have fallen off and it wasn't 9a originally.
I'd go for Big Bang.
Or Hubble if you believe in "old Skool" grading differences.
 Quiddity 12 Jul 2010
In reply to bentley's biceps:

How do we know it wasn't 9a if it hasn't been repeated and holds have since fallen off? Who has had a look at it?

the guidebook says something equally cryptic and I am genuinely interested in the story behind this.
In reply to bentley's biceps:
> (In reply to chris_j_s)
>
> As far as I know, Total Eclipse holds have fallen off and it wasn't 9a originally.

What does a lanky streak know about grading anyway?

I believe Jerry tried it afterwards and pulled some holds off. Mr Dunne inspected the damage and declared those holds unused on the FA anyway. Perhaps Mr Dunne will clarify. I would be very surprised if MidgetsOTWU hasn't been on it at some point. I bet there isn't a bolt at Malham he hasn't clipped......

In reply to Robertostallioni: Mentioned halfway down here, article by A Berry.
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/07_Malham_Cove_473.html
 Quiddity 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Robertostallioni:

cheers
 chris_j_s 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Robertostallioni:

Thanks for the link to the article - interesting stuff.

> I would be very surprised if MidgetsOTWU hasn't been on it at some point. I bet there isn't a bolt at Malham he hasn't clipped......

Maybe just a few of Ste Mac's bolts!

Speaking of which does anyone know if Steve has look at TE - it just seems a bit odd that there is an unrepeated potential 9a sat there at an easily accessible crag and nobody is interested!
 chris_j_s 12 Jul 2010
In reply to RupertD:

Thanks Ru, that makes a lot more sense - why did you delete the post though?
 RupertD 12 Jul 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:

Sorry, I hadn't realised I had. I think I wrote something along the lines of:

From what I have been told people have tried TE. There's a blank section, however, that I have been told is "impossible" by modern standards. In this blank section there's also a rock scar in a place in which it seems probable that at one time there was an undercut, and if there was an undercut there the route would be possible.

Whether that undercut is the same one that Jerry pulled off I don't think anyone knows.

 Jamie B 12 Jul 2010
In reply to quarryboy:

So Total Eclipse was the first claimed 9a, followed by Big Bang. But until one of these gets repeated and the grade confirmed there is an element of conjecture, especially as one of them may well be altered and impossible, and Big Bang doesnt seem to attract much attention either.
 Adam Lincoln 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to quarryboy)
> and Big Bang doesnt seem to attract much attention either.

Pete Robbins has done a fair chunk of it with his ascent of Infanticide.

 doylo 12 Jul 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Pete ROBINS has tried BB recently, whether its psyched him up enough only time will tell. Its very sharp!
 JJL 12 Jul 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:
> (In reply to quarryboy)
>
> Well, Total Eclipse at Malham is currently credited with the grade of 9a and was climbed in 95.
>
> Big Bang was climbed in 96.
>
> After that came Mutation in 98, Northern Lights in 2000 etc., etc.

Nah. All of those were climbed in the mid 80s by M. Edwards, weren't they?

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