In reply to rh5980:
Beta for Strapiombante for a climber with an HVS best onsight:
Version 1:
1) Get connned into thinking its a good first E1,
2) climb first half, place gear, back off, learn from experince.
Version 2
1) As before,
2) place gear and go for it, falling off trying to establishing self on ledge, back off, learn from experience.
Version 3
1) As before,
2) as before but fall more than once.
Version 4
Success after one or more attempts; thinks to self... must recommend this as a first E1 to a similar underacheiver who needs a push.