UKC

Clean or not Clean?

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 langar27 16 Jul 2010
Did a multi-pitch sport climb in France consisting of 9 pitches...Fell once whilst seconding a pitch. Have logged the climb as 'fell/rests(dogged)'..but got into a discussion with some other fellow countrymen in the pub who said that the climb is 'clean on sight' because the fall took place whilst seconding. Any input on this topic is welcomed?
 Fraser 16 Jul 2010
In reply to langar27:

Not that it matters but in my opinion, they're wrong on two counts. 1: you loaded the gear/rope, so not clean. 2: seconding it means you can't really "onsight" it (depends on your belaying method though, I suppose!). Just my 2d.
 hexcentric 16 Jul 2010
In reply to Fraser:
You can 'onsight' it if you are swapping leads...well, the team can.
Not if you fall off though.
 PeteH 16 Jul 2010
As others have said, it's a collective onsight, i.e. at least one of your party onsighted every pitch, but not an onsight for you. Of course, how you log your own climbs is very much up to you, and no-one else really has a right to care much!

Pete.
 mlmatt 16 Jul 2010
In reply to langar27:

I think to climb something clean you should do it with no falls or rests on the rope, so climbing a pitch in one push.

The onsight is a difficult one. If you swapped leads and each of you onsighted each of your pitches then as a team you've onsighted it. But if you seconded it all then you probably watched the leader climbing it. Some purist would call that beta and say it removed the onsight.

Do you have fun though is the real question?
 Silum 18 Jul 2010
In reply to langar27:

One a 9 pitch route, one fall on a 2nd would not make me tick the fall/rests/dogged tick box for the entire climb, though I'm nowhere near as pedantic as most climbers who really care about 'claiming' the onsight. When you talk about it to your mates, do you say, yea I dogged that 9 pitch route in France.. of course not. That's my reasoning.

I'd just log it as Clean on sight, make a note of which pitch you fell. At the end of the day, its your own logbook anyway.
OP langar27 18 Jul 2010
In reply to langar27: cheers for all the feedback guys.
 QReuCk 19 Jul 2010
In reply to langar27: You log what you want in your logbook anyway.
What I would do in your situation would be to log a followed dogged and would say something in the line of "except for one rest in pitch number n, would have been a followed clean with beta". Or you can tick the followed with beta and add a note saying "one rest at pitch N°n". Which means exactly the same, or you can decide you didn't have sufficient visibility for your belaying to invalidate the onsight. Everyone knows that followed onsight isn't really a pure onsight and can understand what it means anyway.
Most important part is having fun climbing the route, not logging it.

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