UKC

Apart from Lupino Lane (E2 7a/b) what other ungradeable routes and problems are about? I'm not thing HXS choss-fests but more routes of problems with stupid or really morphologically dependent moves on. Elder Statesman seems like a fairly good candidate and there are a few 'classic vdiffs' that probably fit the bill.

Any others? Any examples for the low-mid grade climber to get stuck on?

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Doesn't sulky little boys (slipstones) get HVS 6c or something?

In reply to Kevster:

Chatterton.
Jumping Bean.
Design Award.

In reply to Reach>Talent: Possibly not quite what you're after, but if you're short routes like Piggot's Stride should come with a 'requires chin-guard' element!

In reply to Kevster:

V7 in the logbooks,

In reply to Liam M:

Also at Almscliff "The Final Finale" (HVD 5a IIRC) is essentially ungradeable. It's neither a boulder problem nor a route IMHO, is unprotectable, lethal if you get it wrong, and a one move wonder.

In reply to Kevster:


Funny grade but it's quite a conventional grab the holds and pull down type problem.

jk

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Crouching Mahogany at Callerhues is a candidate.

In reply to Steve Crowe:

Why? Sure it gets fairly regular ascents.

Just looking at logbooks, maybe not.

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Patey's Old Man - Glen Etive - Unclassifiable

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Cave Route at Craigmore...
15 feet 3a-6a
The grade depends on the size of the person attempting the route. Start as for short chimney. Instead of climbing that route go into the cave and exit through a hole above.

(Description from the old Glasgow Outcrops Vol.II, although it's regrettably settled in the current Lowland Outcrops to a *** 3a with the caveat 'No place for fatties.')

In reply to Reach>Talent:
Goth in the Avon Gorge is really odd - gets E2 "5b to impossible" in the guide - you've got to squeeze onto and traverse a tiny hanging slab with a roof above and below you. Desperate for the tall, but really easy for midgets.

In reply to Reach>Talent:
What does Monty Python's Flying Circus at Kyloe In get these days? Used to be something like VS 6b.

In reply to Reach>Talent:

do you mean imaginative use of our grading system or routes that really can't be graded...for the majority presumably as they will be gradeable by someone.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Surely all these climbs can be graded by the experts here on UKC? There are plenty of folk on here with the knowledge and confidence to grade stuff they haven't a hope of climbing. Just ask them to grade this so-called ungradeable stuff.

In reply to agibb:

Here is the guidebook description for Patey's Old Man.

Lasso the top of the striking pinnacle and climb the rope to the top. Treat it gently!

All grading offers welcomed

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Low mid grade ? Quite a few at Birchen including a few new ones that make it onto the bouldering circuit (Sling your Hammock and The Admirals Head) also looking forward to the feedback on the new cave routes at Eastwood. Also few repeats as yet on the cave problems at Shining Cliff. All in the new Froggatt guide.

In reply to Offwidth:

Ungradable routes at Birchen, or just ones with odd grades, especially those with hard starts? Not referring to your fetish with squeezing through tight holes btw!


Chris

In reply to Reach>Talent: From the UKC page for little wanney, Northumberland.

"The western section is a bit naff, but it's got a curiously ungraded (ungradable) route up through the cave."

Anyone care to shed any light on this for me, tempted to make a visit to have a look.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ones a new OKish squeeze the other a full body bridge up the back of the crows nest.

In reply to Reach>Talent: Ian Cummins did that problem in his trainers way back when it was first done!

In reply to Offwidth: Noticed 'Sling your Hammock' the other day but didn't fancy it without lining the Bunk with mattresses. Done the easier of the cave routes at Eastwood but was stopped by my ribcage in the tighter one. A skinnier friend found it straightforward though.

In reply to Reach>Talent:
Has it got to be in the UK?
Otherwise I was thinking about fessura della desperazione in valle dell'Orco. It's given as f5c,f6b,f6a+.

Methinks that most f6b climbers out there would be in for a shock! I'm tempted to say E3,5b with one #6 camalot, E2,5b with 2 #6 camalot and E4,5b without any of those.

We settled for our mars bar scale which is only concerned about the amount of calories burnt regardless of danger, exposure or difficulty (it only burns more calories to be scared). The fessura was a definite 3 mars bars on a max of 3 thus far...I'm willing to leave the scale open ended for those crazy people who feel the need to torture themselves forever more.

All said though it is a fantastic line and a great climb too.

In reply to bentley's biceps:



Along with those 3, there's also Johnny's thing at Ramshaw (I think) that jump starts into hand jams.