UKC

Looking for some recommendations for when the tides are unfavourable (high neap tides). Particularly whats possible on Long Rock and the Promontory, but also stuff on the Culm Coast.
Thanks, John.

In reply to johnl: ID Say there isnt that much. But possibly there is. Il think and get back to u.

In reply to El3ctroFuzz: Thanks, any other locals on here?

In reply to johnl: I agree not much, but if I'm not mistaken Kinky Boots (VS?) can be done at high tide... would suggest you check with someone more familiar before relying on that though.

In reply to johnl: Kinkyboots start gives the possibility of Midnight Cowboy, peeping Tom etc. Crags which are fins sticking out into the sea are far more tidal at one end than the other. At the landward end they aren't that tidal eg Smile at Sharpnose, Caravanserai at Compass, maybe Haille Selassie at Gull Rock and Half Life at Screda? Top roping is always an option too. Pressure Drop at Speaks Mill Mouth is non tidal -- could you go clean it for me

In reply to johnl:

I don't think the right side of the Pink Void Slab is all that tidal. Assuming that's still where Pink Void starts. It's a bit variable and I haven't done it for a few years.
Doesn't Bike start over there too? Although I don't think the main issues there are tidal.

In reply to Kafoozalem: Pressure drop is non tidal but subject to spray from the waterfall if windy or high stream levels, plus check there is a stake in place first, the rabbit burrows don't make a great belay.
If I remember correctly Haille Sellaise is tidal as we spent a grand day there delibrately getting cut off by the tide and going swimming before climbing again later on.
Or maybe go surfing at high tide , I'm sure some of the breaks work then.

In reply to johnl:

For the culm coast, get to Blackchurch. Plenty of non-tidal stuff on the main cliff there if you like that sort of thing. Personally I've only done Loose Women, but that was magnificent. You could take a belay on the ab rope for stuff on Blackchurh Rock too I guess.

I think Hippa Rock near Lower Sharpnose is also non tidal, but could be wrong?

I think you mean high spring tides by the way (when the moon is near full). There should be plenty of manageable stuff accross much of the culm on a high neap (weak) tide. So don't get put off if someone tells you it's a high neap, although the last few days have seen spring tides.

In reply to Southern Man: Thanks all. I do mean neap tides, which I think should give me more scope at high water(Thurs/Fri next week). Caravanseri at Compass is definitely on the hit list as is Blackchurch Rock if I can get on to it(lower water in the evening?).
Cheers John.

In reply to johnl:

Sorry John, see what you mean now, that that is when you do want to go climbing rather than can't go climbing. I should have read it properly in the first place

In reply to Southern Man:

Any advice on whether those routes actually need you to take pegs? Planning on going next week and the guide seems to say you need them for quite a few routes...

In reply to thomasadixon:

Hey Thomas.

Do you mean at Blackchurch? You definitely don't need any on Loose Women. Not sure about the others and although I was told that you don't need pegs for The Verger belays, I've not done it yet but would be tempted to take them to be honest. Everything else there is a bit beyond me, but I wouldn't be surprised if placing (and removing) pegs at Blackchurch is fairly common practice - I'm prepared to be proved otherwise now!

In reply to Southern Man:

Was thinking Verger, Archtempter, yep Blackchurch. Don't have any and don't *really* want to buy any...

In reply to thomasadixon:

I've not taken nor felt the need for pegs on any of the 6 routes on Blackchurch main cliff I've done but then I've not tried any of the real off-piste items like Crucial Bunny.

The Verger belays are fine. I did Archtempter as one big pitch. The situ belay pegs were complete mank four years ago but I didn't look hard for other gear. Pressing on seemed the natural thing to do.

They are both great routes. If Archtempter goes OK, try Rude Nude. If that goes OK then tighten your belt and step up to the plate for the mighty Savage God!

In reply to duncan:

Thanks for the info. Remembered after I left it was Rude Nude I was mainly thinking of, Savage God's one I really want to do...will see!