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Sport Climbing in the Basque Country

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 Richard Hall 24 Aug 2010
Off to the Basque country on Saturday.

Firstly if anyone has a copy of the guidebook that I could buy/rent/have/borrow, it would be greatly appreciated. If not do you know where we can pick one up out there?

Also anyone know of any good campsites? We will be climbing mainly at Valdegobia, so anywhere near there would be good.

Any other useful info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
In reply to Richard Hall:

Nice to see you've planned well in advance!
Think we stayed in camping angosto which is the closest campsite to Valdegovia. A google search for the name reveals all you need to know.

Valdegovia is good, but wasn't the best crag we visited in the area. That honour would go to atxarte, or Baltzola if your team has the guns for it! Atxarte has some shade, which makes it a good choice, and even if you're not up to climbing there, you should check Baltzola on a rest day. Etxauri is the best crag in the region, but it faces south and is low lying, so it'll be baking this time of year!

Regarding the guide, you'll be able to get it from Forum Sport. I think this one is on the road out of Bilbao, but I am going on memory here.
"Barrio de Zabalandi, 18
48970‎ Basauri‎ Vizcaya
Spain
OP Richard Hall 25 Aug 2010
In reply to midgets of the world unite: Planning doesn't seem important until you start packing and discover you dont even know how long a rope to bring! (taking 4)

Where does Baltzola start? Sounds like the sort of place the guy I am going with will want to go to, but will be pretty humiliating if I spend days trying to redpoint the warm up route!

Thanks for the beta on camping and guidebook.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 25 Aug 2010
In reply to Richard Hall:

You need to try and get your hands on a copy of the guide or some topos before you go. We tried to get the guide locally last year and it was out of print.

Euskalarria: Sport climbing in the Basque Country
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=331
OP Richard Hall 25 Aug 2010
In reply to Steve Crowe: Oh dear. Thought that might happen.

Are the crags busy enough that we can rely on borrowing guides from locals?
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 25 Aug 2010
In reply to Richard Hall:

Yes, I'd say that if you find the crags then the locals are generaly very helpful.
In reply to Richard Hall:

Baltzola starts at 6b actually, but there is exactly one route at that grade. A handful of decent routes between 7a and 7b, three or four really good 7c/7c+. After that it starts getting really great. If you're the weakest team member it sounds like it'd be good for a day or two.

It's a big cave, so the tempation is to head there on hot and sweaty days but try and avoid it if it's really humid, because the condensation in the cave will make everything gopping. Oh, and take a headtorch.

About the guide: you have mail
OP Richard Hall 25 Aug 2010
In reply to midgets of the world unite: Thanks very much, greatly appreciated. Have replied to your e-mail.

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