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Hello,
Me and a friend are planning to climb the swedish route on the troll wall at the end of september. As you can imagine this is a great undertaking and something i am very excited but nervous about doing as its such a big undertaking.
So i have a number of questions that i would greatly appreciate any answers possible.
What is the best topo?
Has anyone done the route and have some beta on it?
What is the approach like? is it stable, is it frequent to avalanche?
I am researching day and night and getting together all information possible.
I appreciate any information
many thanks
Me and a friend are planning to climb the swedish route on the troll wall at the end of september. As you can imagine this is a great undertaking and something i am very excited but nervous about doing as its such a big undertaking.
So i have a number of questions that i would greatly appreciate any answers possible.
What is the best topo?
Has anyone done the route and have some beta on it?
What is the approach like? is it stable, is it frequent to avalanche?
I am researching day and night and getting together all information possible.
I appreciate any information
many thanks
In reply to Gazleah:
The approach to the Troll Wall is a very steep scree slope, which when I was there was receiving regular rockfall..... blocks as big as cars on occasion. You could hear them coming but couldn't tell from which direction
I went back a couple of years ago and it was if anything worse than the first time, despite being a lot drier, probably made worse following the massive rock fall in 1998/99.
I now have no desire to climb either the Rimmond or the Swedish route.
Good luck
The approach to the Troll Wall is a very steep scree slope, which when I was there was receiving regular rockfall..... blocks as big as cars on occasion. You could hear them coming but couldn't tell from which direction
I went back a couple of years ago and it was if anything worse than the first time, despite being a lot drier, probably made worse following the massive rock fall in 1998/99.
I now have no desire to climb either the Rimmond or the Swedish route.
Good luck
In reply to Gazleah: The guide i have been looking at getting is the cordee one. however, its 5 years old, anyone know of a updated topo?
In reply to Gazleah:
The Swedish route is some 25 pithes route up the Troll Wall. And you can add 4-5 pitches for the intro slabs. Grade Norwegian 7, equal to american 5.11 or British E2 - E4 (should get a high E in this setting). It has been done in a day, but most parties uses two to three days.
BUT, the Troll Wall is falling apart. Well, all mountains does, but this one faster than most. For the last 20 years there has been major rock falls nearly each year. The largest happend in 1998, when the Rimmon route lost 5 pitches (actually they were replaced by 5 new pitches). The rockfall measured 2,05 on the Richter scale.
The Rimmon route shares some pitches with the Swedish route, but the rock fall didn't take the Swedish route, but was very close. Lots of loose rocks and debris was spread on the lower parts of the Swedish route and on the intro slabs.
Two Swedes did the Swedish route in three days in August 2002. They thought the 12. pitch was destroyed by the landslide in '98. The new pitch was both loose and very difficult. NB The route was repeated again a few Germans in 2003. They believed every pitch above The Terrace was intact (including the 12.) It was the two pitches under the Terrace that had most signs of the slide, but none were destroyed.
While you can climb all through all night in June in Romsdal, the end of September has shorter days, and a high chance of bad weather. The rockfalls appears mostly when it rains, and the wall is not a pleasant place to be even if you don't get hit by the stones.
British climber Michael Garton tried the Swedish route solo in the summer of 2006, and on the lower part of the route a ledge just disappeared beneath him. He took a huge fall, and got injured. By luck he got rescued with a helicopter from the Norwegian Rescue Patrol, but all his stuff is still hanging up there, as no one has been there since. And I don't think you should go there either.
The Swedish route is some 25 pithes route up the Troll Wall. And you can add 4-5 pitches for the intro slabs. Grade Norwegian 7, equal to american 5.11 or British E2 - E4 (should get a high E in this setting). It has been done in a day, but most parties uses two to three days.
BUT, the Troll Wall is falling apart. Well, all mountains does, but this one faster than most. For the last 20 years there has been major rock falls nearly each year. The largest happend in 1998, when the Rimmon route lost 5 pitches (actually they were replaced by 5 new pitches). The rockfall measured 2,05 on the Richter scale.
The Rimmon route shares some pitches with the Swedish route, but the rock fall didn't take the Swedish route, but was very close. Lots of loose rocks and debris was spread on the lower parts of the Swedish route and on the intro slabs.
Two Swedes did the Swedish route in three days in August 2002. They thought the 12. pitch was destroyed by the landslide in '98. The new pitch was both loose and very difficult. NB The route was repeated again a few Germans in 2003. They believed every pitch above The Terrace was intact (including the 12.) It was the two pitches under the Terrace that had most signs of the slide, but none were destroyed.
While you can climb all through all night in June in Romsdal, the end of September has shorter days, and a high chance of bad weather. The rockfalls appears mostly when it rains, and the wall is not a pleasant place to be even if you don't get hit by the stones.
British climber Michael Garton tried the Swedish route solo in the summer of 2006, and on the lower part of the route a ledge just disappeared beneath him. He took a huge fall, and got injured. By luck he got rescued with a helicopter from the Norwegian Rescue Patrol, but all his stuff is still hanging up there, as no one has been there since. And I don't think you should go there either.
In reply to hillman: Thanks for this information, i really appreciate your input. I totally understand the risk involved in taking on a wall such as this. This is not something we will be undertaking lightly and are taking this very seriously.
It's good to hear that we can expect the route to be intact when we arrive. We are attempting to climb it quick and fast and will be taking the best gear available to give us the best chance of success.
Obviously if we arrive at the wall and find it acting very unstable we will consider other options but will be aiming to climb the Swedish route.
Can you give any further information as to the best pitch to bivi? temperature to be expected?
rough day length during late September?
Many Thanks
It's good to hear that we can expect the route to be intact when we arrive. We are attempting to climb it quick and fast and will be taking the best gear available to give us the best chance of success.
Obviously if we arrive at the wall and find it acting very unstable we will consider other options but will be aiming to climb the Swedish route.
Can you give any further information as to the best pitch to bivi? temperature to be expected?
rough day length during late September?
Many Thanks
In reply to Gazleah:
"I totally understand the risk involved in taking on a wall such as this. This is not something we will be undertaking lightly and are taking this very seriously"
You are 23 years old.
Read this.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=32357
Now think whether you totally understand the risk.
"I totally understand the risk involved in taking on a wall such as this. This is not something we will be undertaking lightly and are taking this very seriously"
You are 23 years old.
Read this.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=32357
Now think whether you totally understand the risk.
In reply to Gazleah:
hillman is local and his advice is worth considering very carefully.
Have a look at this film: http://www.nrk.no/nett-tv/klipp/478144/ (mostly in Norwegian but self-explanatory. Michael Garton is interviewed towards the end.)
See also the post from Andy Kirkpatrick on this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=193104
There are many other very fine big-wall destinations in Norway (or Italy or Spain) that don't involve the major objective dangers of the Trollveggen.
hillman is local and his advice is worth considering very carefully.
Have a look at this film: http://www.nrk.no/nett-tv/klipp/478144/ (mostly in Norwegian but self-explanatory. Michael Garton is interviewed towards the end.)
See also the post from Andy Kirkpatrick on this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=193104
There are many other very fine big-wall destinations in Norway (or Italy or Spain) that don't involve the major objective dangers of the Trollveggen.
In reply to duncan: You should re read his post. They'll be taking "the best gear available" so what could possibly go wrong.
In reply to Morgan Woods:
This thread is so obviously a 'troll'. However its not particularly funny, in light of the above links.
This thread is so obviously a 'troll'. However its not particularly funny, in light of the above links.
In reply to Gazleah: Try to get in touch with Bror Morten Ranum via his 8a.nu scorecard, he did the Swedish route 2 years ago and said it wasn't too bad. Loose in parts but not as suicidal as some people will have it.
In reply to Gazleah:
At the end of September, snow is a distinct possibility, though rain is more likely.
At the end of September, snow is a distinct possibility, though rain is more likely.
In reply to jwi: I think some people are very much making a mockery of this link. But not everyone has ambition like this i'm sure. I will get in touch and thanks for the info. . spoke to a few people that have been there and actually have some experience to comment properly and they are giving me positive feedback and great beta, thanks for all the helpful information. P.s. the guy that fell in 2006 was climbing SOLO!! there is a far greater risk involved with that than climbing as a team
In reply to Gazleah:
I can understand the desire to climb the route, dispite all the obstacles.
The one point I don't understand is why you want to try it in late september? The chance of rain and wet conditions are close to 100%, the days are shorter, and you can expect temperature down to 5 degrees.
Why not wait until june next year?
I can understand the desire to climb the route, dispite all the obstacles.
The one point I don't understand is why you want to try it in late september? The chance of rain and wet conditions are close to 100%, the days are shorter, and you can expect temperature down to 5 degrees.
Why not wait until june next year?
In reply to Gazleah: No offence fella but asking such simple logistical questions on a forum kinda makes you come across as amaturish and not prepared. you really should know what temperatures to expect. however, i wish you all the luck in the world. hell of an intro to big wall though. id do a lot more research into the wall and its history perhaps, and as with all endevours such as this it may not be to unprudent to visit the area with no intention of beginning climbing immediately, just to recce. anyhoo, whatever you like. good luck dude. gouranga!!
In reply to Gazleah:
I think people might take you a bit more seriously if you could provide a bit more info on your big route experience.
I assume you're one of these people who doesn't record everything they do in their logbook as I can't find any record of the grades you've claimed in your profile in there, or indeed anything to suggest you have experience on big routes or loose rock...
I think people might take you a bit more seriously if you could provide a bit more info on your big route experience.
I assume you're one of these people who doesn't record everything they do in their logbook as I can't find any record of the grades you've claimed in your profile in there, or indeed anything to suggest you have experience on big routes or loose rock...
In reply to thommi: I don't think there is anything amateur about seeking first hand experience from people who are either there right now or have been there recently. I am researching every day through various sources to compile the most comprehensive view of something i have never been too. If you think there is a better approach i would like to hear.
I understand this is a very serious undertaking (as i've previously said) and yes i am aiming very high. But why listen to nay sayers and never get something done that you dream of?
Thanks for the well wishes, this is not a lash out, but it does get a little frustrating when so many people are trying to put you off when they haven't been there/done it/ attempted anything like this
I understand this is a very serious undertaking (as i've previously said) and yes i am aiming very high. But why listen to nay sayers and never get something done that you dream of?
Thanks for the well wishes, this is not a lash out, but it does get a little frustrating when so many people are trying to put you off when they haven't been there/done it/ attempted anything like this
In reply to Pagan:
I agree fully with the guy who pointed out that if you need to ask obvious questions about the troll wall you are not ready to climb it safely.
The only point to all of these replies is that people dont want you to hurt yourself badly on a rather dangerous wall.
I thought the dolomties were not too solid but this seems to be a whole different kettle of fish that gets worse over the years as it warms up.
The 2006 accident happened on the introductory slabs, not even on the route itself, solo/as a team makes no difference to a house size bit of loose rock just giving way or hitting you.
I also assume that when you say solo you realise it was a roped solo so the differences are not that bad if you know what you are doing.
I agree fully with the guy who pointed out that if you need to ask obvious questions about the troll wall you are not ready to climb it safely.
The only point to all of these replies is that people dont want you to hurt yourself badly on a rather dangerous wall.
I thought the dolomties were not too solid but this seems to be a whole different kettle of fish that gets worse over the years as it warms up.
The 2006 accident happened on the introductory slabs, not even on the route itself, solo/as a team makes no difference to a house size bit of loose rock just giving way or hitting you.
I also assume that when you say solo you realise it was a roped solo so the differences are not that bad if you know what you are doing.
In reply to Gazleah:
If you dont want people putting you off then dont ask or at least have the expereince behind you to actually look like you will have a chance on this thing.
You are heading for a shock if/when you get on this. It will be so scary you will not be able to climb anywhere near as hard as you can.
Have you climbed with the wumph wumph of falling stones all around you not knowing where they were going? I suggest you get some expereince of that as it makes a little bit of difference to how you feel and how tired you get.
Have you seen the damage something even a brick size can cause first hand? It is pretty horrendous, do you reckon you can get your mate down if that happens?
If you dont want people putting you off then dont ask or at least have the expereince behind you to actually look like you will have a chance on this thing.
You are heading for a shock if/when you get on this. It will be so scary you will not be able to climb anywhere near as hard as you can.
Have you climbed with the wumph wumph of falling stones all around you not knowing where they were going? I suggest you get some expereince of that as it makes a little bit of difference to how you feel and how tired you get.
Have you seen the damage something even a brick size can cause first hand? It is pretty horrendous, do you reckon you can get your mate down if that happens?
In reply to Gazleah:
I also assume this is your mate?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=422695
I also assume this is your mate?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=422695
In reply to Gazleah: Okay, I dont think anyones is trying to put you down fella. i think people are just cautious. I think you'll find at least a couple of those who have replied to you know what they are on about, and have all the experience nessersary to advise you. it is not naysaying, just caution. In my opinion there will be people who have done the apprentiship for shit like this. In my opinion you have to have many years experience to take on something like this. It is not just about the climbing. You have progressed very quickly in the physical aspect of climbing, but do you have the experience? Im talking about about crisis situations, experience of environment, judgement, management? There are so many things involved. Like i said good luck, but dont expect lots of praise. Many on here will have (or are) working their whole climbing lives towards big walls like this. Follow your dream fella, but as hillman said, think about your timing. Maybe prepare for a year more or 10? all the best chap. Im not having a go. Peace.
In reply to Gazleah:
Because they know more than you and don't want to see another young person tetraplegic?
No, I don't think you do. I don't think it's your fault - you just don't have the experience/or knowledge to understand what you're taking on.
I wouldn't listen to me particularly (although Satan and all his minions wouldn't get me on that wall) but when people like Duncan are warning you off I'd start to take notice.
> But why listen to nay sayers and never get something done that you dream of?
Because they know more than you and don't want to see another young person tetraplegic?
> I understand this is a very serious undertaking (as i've previously said)
No, I don't think you do. I don't think it's your fault - you just don't have the experience/or knowledge to understand what you're taking on.
I wouldn't listen to me particularly (although Satan and all his minions wouldn't get me on that wall) but when people like Duncan are warning you off I'd start to take notice.
In reply to Gazleah:
As thommi said, it's not putting you down, but when you say this it makes you look daft and on a suicide mission.....
"am researching every day through various sources to compile the most comprehensive view of something i have never been too. If you think there is a better approach i would like to hear. "
Well hear this... a better aproach is going and doing the north face of the badile, the north face of the cima grande, the nose, the north face of the dru, the south face of the marmolada, the walker spur and then travelling to norway.
As thommi said, it's not putting you down, but when you say this it makes you look daft and on a suicide mission.....
"am researching every day through various sources to compile the most comprehensive view of something i have never been too. If you think there is a better approach i would like to hear. "
Well hear this... a better aproach is going and doing the north face of the badile, the north face of the cima grande, the nose, the north face of the dru, the south face of the marmolada, the walker spur and then travelling to norway.
Thanks everyone for the information. I am have made some great contacts and have most of the information i need. I will be heading out to the troll wall and will make the executive decision when i'm there starring up at it. I will be there for a while and plan to do some of the other walls near by to get a feel for the rock, exposure and conditions before are attempt.
Many thanks again, and yes rock gobbler is my climbing partner and he is extremely good with his rope work as am I and will thinking of every eventuality before heading up.
Many thanks again, and yes rock gobbler is my climbing partner and he is extremely good with his rope work as am I and will thinking of every eventuality before heading up.
In reply to Gazleah: pretty sure i've learnt a valuable lesson about posting on UKC too
In reply to Gazleah:
That is fu**in hilarious, nice one Gazleah! You are obviously trying to cheer us all up and make us laugh during this period of crap weather. Well, made me laugh anyway!
Rich.
> he is extremely good with his rope work as am I and will thinking of every eventuality before heading up.
That is fu**in hilarious, nice one Gazleah! You are obviously trying to cheer us all up and make us laugh during this period of crap weather. Well, made me laugh anyway!
Rich.
In reply to Gazleah:
Excellent. Glad to hear it.
Being extremely good with one's rope work is definitely the most important factor to consider when attempting a wall like this.
> he is extremely good with his rope work as am I
Excellent. Glad to hear it.
Being extremely good with one's rope work is definitely the most important factor to consider when attempting a wall like this.
In reply to Pagan:
Well if you can skip really well you may be able to keep the ropes from getting hit by the bits?
> Being extremely good with one's rope work is definitely the most important factor to consider when attempting a wall like this.
Well if you can skip really well you may be able to keep the ropes from getting hit by the bits?
In reply to Gazleah:
Having now looked at your profile I am now sure you are embarking on a suicide mission.
This is almost as good as DJviper, although I am concerned you are actually serious.
Having now looked at your profile I am now sure you are embarking on a suicide mission.
This is almost as good as DJviper, although I am concerned you are actually serious.
In reply to smithaldo:
I think if you're delusional enough to lie about the grades on your profile and believe they're real (a short scan through his logbook reveals no onsights harder than E3), you're delusional enough to actually try something like this.
My concern is that he's misled his mate as to how good he is going off the comment in the other thread:
"My climbing buddy is the guy I have done most of my serious climbs with and I have absolute faith in his abilities. He is climbing considerably higher grades than me at the moment and I have been focusing on the technical stuff we need to know in preparation for this over the last two years. We will be climbing as equals and sharing all the obstacles on the way"
Never mind - I'm sure with their mad ropework skillz they'll be ok.
> This is almost as good as DJviper, although I am concerned you are actually serious.
I think if you're delusional enough to lie about the grades on your profile and believe they're real (a short scan through his logbook reveals no onsights harder than E3), you're delusional enough to actually try something like this.
My concern is that he's misled his mate as to how good he is going off the comment in the other thread:
"My climbing buddy is the guy I have done most of my serious climbs with and I have absolute faith in his abilities. He is climbing considerably higher grades than me at the moment and I have been focusing on the technical stuff we need to know in preparation for this over the last two years. We will be climbing as equals and sharing all the obstacles on the way"
Never mind - I'm sure with their mad ropework skillz they'll be ok.
In reply to Pagan:
Bless 'em they're only young! Uhh, they're not actually. Gazleah is 23 and the other guy is 27.
They really are a pair of delusional novices who are old enough to know better.
But hey, we could all be wrong and they'll romp up the Swedish Route in record time. At the very least, I hope they come back safely with a little more wisdom under their belts having realised they weren't quite ready.
Rich.
Bless 'em they're only young! Uhh, they're not actually. Gazleah is 23 and the other guy is 27.
They really are a pair of delusional novices who are old enough to know better.
But hey, we could all be wrong and they'll romp up the Swedish Route in record time. At the very least, I hope they come back safely with a little more wisdom under their belts having realised they weren't quite ready.
Rich.
In reply to Pagan:
Assuming the grades in his profile are real I'd love to know he trained to bump himself up from terror at the thought of leading Commander Energy 6 months ago to On-sight E6, and E8 Headpoints?
Assuming the grades in his profile are real I'd love to know he trained to bump himself up from terror at the thought of leading Commander Energy 6 months ago to On-sight E6, and E8 Headpoints?
In reply to Pagan: I must say that i have not made up anything on my profile... and further more am not misleading my mate as i he is the person i have climbed with nearly every day for 3 years.. further more this was a route that my friend was more keen to do than myself at first.
I will not be posting anything further on this topic and would wish that anyone wishing to put smart mouthed, small minded comments would find something better to do with there time.. like maybe climb
pagan. what i decide to do is no concern of yours and i think your comments are about as helpful as a sh*tty blanket on a wet day. so thanks, but i don't think you have anything further helpful to say
I will not be posting anything further on this topic and would wish that anyone wishing to put smart mouthed, small minded comments would find something better to do with there time.. like maybe climb
pagan. what i decide to do is no concern of yours and i think your comments are about as helpful as a sh*tty blanket on a wet day. so thanks, but i don't think you have anything further helpful to say
In reply to Gazleah:
Alright Gaz, sounds like some big plans!!
This would be an excellent alternative - and could be high on the grim factor in September: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=34446
Good luck and stay safe chaps!
Cheers
Alright Gaz, sounds like some big plans!!
This would be an excellent alternative - and could be high on the grim factor in September: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=34446
Good luck and stay safe chaps!
Cheers
In reply to pagan:
I know I am bored at work when I find this:
" should have worded it slightly differently, don't be stupid and learn to walk before you can run... sure you can gradually overcome your fear of heights and thats good. but if your going to attempt something that you know nothing about, just seems plain stupid to me. I'm not being specific about this particular event. there are ALOT of stories on here about people that get caught out. Alot of problems can be avoided with a little research and talking to your partner about the reality of what your doing."
not my words,
the words of gazleah on an accident on tryfan north ridge.
I know I am bored at work when I find this:
" should have worded it slightly differently, don't be stupid and learn to walk before you can run... sure you can gradually overcome your fear of heights and thats good. but if your going to attempt something that you know nothing about, just seems plain stupid to me. I'm not being specific about this particular event. there are ALOT of stories on here about people that get caught out. Alot of problems can be avoided with a little research and talking to your partner about the reality of what your doing."
not my words,
the words of gazleah on an accident on tryfan north ridge.
In reply to duncan:
The video was very interesting. Scary views of the wall at the end. Also on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXhAjWtTMWw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDPeKW5BTjQ&feature=related
The video was very interesting. Scary views of the wall at the end. Also on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXhAjWtTMWw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDPeKW5BTjQ&feature=related
In reply to Gazleah:
Well, it's a bit harder to prove now that you've hidden your logbook, but certainly from looking through it before there wasn't a single E6 or F7b onsight on there. In face, there were no onsights harder than E3 and they were not what you would call prolific. So I'll ask you again: what's your big route experience and what makes you think you'll be able to climb at your limit on a wall like this?
I found these quite funny, although they don't inspire confidence in your ability to handle poor rock:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=153540
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=153161
> I must say that i have not made up anything on my profile...
Well, it's a bit harder to prove now that you've hidden your logbook, but certainly from looking through it before there wasn't a single E6 or F7b onsight on there. In face, there were no onsights harder than E3 and they were not what you would call prolific. So I'll ask you again: what's your big route experience and what makes you think you'll be able to climb at your limit on a wall like this?
I found these quite funny, although they don't inspire confidence in your ability to handle poor rock:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=153540
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=153161
In reply to Pagan: Tommy Nilsson had certainly not onsighted anything harder than E3 when he and LG did the first ascent of the Swedish route (they had some A0-points though).
In reply to Gazleah: Just go and do the route and enjoy posting the picks, the only thing i would say is wait until midsummer.
In reply to Pagan: So I'll ask you again: what's your big route experience and what makes you think you'll be able to climb at your limit on a wall like this?
Going by this post he has made significant improvement this year
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=421345&v=1#x5991820
In any case obligatory hard moves (ie ones that you cant frig past) on long established big walls are rare.
The main issue is that the Troll sounds like its looser than it used to be - and thats saying something - in a valley full of good rock. Trolltind to the left looks good I always thought instead.
Going by this post he has made significant improvement this year
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=421345&v=1#x5991820
In any case obligatory hard moves (ie ones that you cant frig past) on long established big walls are rare.
The main issue is that the Troll sounds like its looser than it used to be - and thats saying something - in a valley full of good rock. Trolltind to the left looks good I always thought instead.
In reply to Ackbar: Nice video.
For the OP it might be good to know that they ain´t doing rescues in a large part of the Troll Wall area. It´s a no go area for the rescuers due to the high risks with rockfall. This policy came after the rescue of Michael.
I indeed hope you´ve got lots of time, my belief is that september isn´t generally primetime for big walls in Norway.
For the OP it might be good to know that they ain´t doing rescues in a large part of the Troll Wall area. It´s a no go area for the rescuers due to the high risks with rockfall. This policy came after the rescue of Michael.
I indeed hope you´ve got lots of time, my belief is that september isn´t generally primetime for big walls in Norway.
In reply to shark.
Well that post suggests he went to e8 but his now hidden profile which seemed very detailed listed a couple of e7 top ropes not leads and a handful of e3 onsights.
Regardless of this the point is if he tries this he is likely to get really badly in the sh*t and without the requisite skills to rescue himself and his mate will be well and truly fubar.
No one surely wants to see people set off with a high chance of a serious epic without the skills to get out.
I have more chance of getting up this route safely and that is saying something.
Well that post suggests he went to e8 but his now hidden profile which seemed very detailed listed a couple of e7 top ropes not leads and a handful of e3 onsights.
Regardless of this the point is if he tries this he is likely to get really badly in the sh*t and without the requisite skills to rescue himself and his mate will be well and truly fubar.
No one surely wants to see people set off with a high chance of a serious epic without the skills to get out.
I have more chance of getting up this route safely and that is saying something.
In reply to Gazleah:
I can understand where you are coming from. The Troll Wall used to be a regular venue for UK Climbers 20 years or more ago and the Sweedish Route got a lot of ascents. Even then the chances were that you would camp at the bottom in the rain rather than get up it, friends of mine made repeat visits to get rained off. I was really inspired and had plans to go; I still have the guidebook I bought for the purpose.
However all this changed with the masive rockfalls which destroyed the Rimon Route, (also popular at the time) and continue to leave the face in an extremely dangerous condition, even if you don't get wiped out by continuous stonefall, I understand waht used to be E2 5c relatively solid climbing is now E5 5c rather loose climbing. Climbing very hard on solid rock is not the full skill set for climbing loose rock, maybe a weekend pushing hard e grades on the Culm Coast (20 pitches a day) would be good preparation.
If I had your talent, ambition, youth and spare time in September I would ditch the Troll Wall and head for Yosemite or Grand Capucin
All the best
Kevin
I can understand where you are coming from. The Troll Wall used to be a regular venue for UK Climbers 20 years or more ago and the Sweedish Route got a lot of ascents. Even then the chances were that you would camp at the bottom in the rain rather than get up it, friends of mine made repeat visits to get rained off. I was really inspired and had plans to go; I still have the guidebook I bought for the purpose.
However all this changed with the masive rockfalls which destroyed the Rimon Route, (also popular at the time) and continue to leave the face in an extremely dangerous condition, even if you don't get wiped out by continuous stonefall, I understand waht used to be E2 5c relatively solid climbing is now E5 5c rather loose climbing. Climbing very hard on solid rock is not the full skill set for climbing loose rock, maybe a weekend pushing hard e grades on the Culm Coast (20 pitches a day) would be good preparation.
If I had your talent, ambition, youth and spare time in September I would ditch the Troll Wall and head for Yosemite or Grand Capucin
All the best
Kevin
In reply to Gazleah:
As have I!
Good luck Gaz. Stay safe.
> (In reply to Gazleah) pretty sure i've learnt a valuable lesson about posting on UKC too
As have I!
Good luck Gaz. Stay safe.
In reply to Gazleah: You're obviously not going to back down now, and you guys aren't helping either. Good luck and stay safe, try not doing anything stupid.
In reply to smithaldo: No one surely wants to see people set off with a high chance of a serious epic without the skills to get out.
I have sympathy as I did the Rimmon with only 7 months lead climbing experience under my belt - no multipitch. Imagine the flaming if I had posted on UKC at the time. It was an epic and because of that probably still my alltime climbing highlight.
As Kevin said - there are other fabulous big walls to choose that aren't loose chossfests.
I have sympathy as I did the Rimmon with only 7 months lead climbing experience under my belt - no multipitch. Imagine the flaming if I had posted on UKC at the time. It was an epic and because of that probably still my alltime climbing highlight.
As Kevin said - there are other fabulous big walls to choose that aren't loose chossfests.
In reply to Gazleah:
I'm all for ambition and gnarly climbing but I don't believe the Norweigan rescuers would just leave you to die on the face. They would try to get you off and some of their children might end up without a father.
You should consider them and your own loved ones.
I'm all for ambition and gnarly climbing but I don't believe the Norweigan rescuers would just leave you to die on the face. They would try to get you off and some of their children might end up without a father.
You should consider them and your own loved ones.
In reply to shark:
True, but if you spend ages frigging every hard move you're never going to get up a big route like this.
All I would say is listen to local informed advice, don't be afraid to try a more sensible alternative and go at the right time of year.
> In any case obligatory hard moves (ie ones that you cant frig past) on long established big walls are rare.
>
>
True, but if you spend ages frigging every hard move you're never going to get up a big route like this.
All I would say is listen to local informed advice, don't be afraid to try a more sensible alternative and go at the right time of year.
In reply to Gazleah:
this may be a Troll - but I'd probably agree that the Swedish route would be a bad place to wake up on if you didn't know what you were going to do. I've had three trips to the troll wall (2 winter 1 summer) and unlike most mountains, which have either lots of little rocks falling, or a huge rock every decade - the Troll has both, and all the time. Just walking to the bottom is probably one of the most dangerous approaches in the world. If your heart is set on the Troll then the safest routes would probably be the Norwriegan (still loose and dirty) or Arch Wall and the French direct (hard aid fests).
I'd say that for such a route it would be good to have some death routes on your dance card (E4 5bs), or some solid alpine routes. Climbing el Cap is know training for the Troll (it's a climbing wall in comparison).
If you want my advice I'd either go out to Yosmite in Sept (cheaper, and you're garanteed to climb EVERY day), or go out to the alps and do some late season gnarl.
Anyway I don't belive it's dumb to ask questions - more often than not it's dumb not to ask... even if you don't hear what you want.
Andy
this may be a Troll - but I'd probably agree that the Swedish route would be a bad place to wake up on if you didn't know what you were going to do. I've had three trips to the troll wall (2 winter 1 summer) and unlike most mountains, which have either lots of little rocks falling, or a huge rock every decade - the Troll has both, and all the time. Just walking to the bottom is probably one of the most dangerous approaches in the world. If your heart is set on the Troll then the safest routes would probably be the Norwriegan (still loose and dirty) or Arch Wall and the French direct (hard aid fests).
I'd say that for such a route it would be good to have some death routes on your dance card (E4 5bs), or some solid alpine routes. Climbing el Cap is know training for the Troll (it's a climbing wall in comparison).
If you want my advice I'd either go out to Yosmite in Sept (cheaper, and you're garanteed to climb EVERY day), or go out to the alps and do some late season gnarl.
Anyway I don't belive it's dumb to ask questions - more often than not it's dumb not to ask... even if you don't hear what you want.
Andy
In reply to Gazleah:
24 hours of which about 1/2 will be daylight. It's N facing so will likely be cold. And I would think that the chances of rockfall would be particularly high due to active freeze / thaw in the upper regions. So it would compound a poor decision into a very bad one.
I would definitely aim for July - if you need to retreat, you'll be glad of the extra light
> rough day length during late September?
24 hours of which about 1/2 will be daylight. It's N facing so will likely be cold. And I would think that the chances of rockfall would be particularly high due to active freeze / thaw in the upper regions. So it would compound a poor decision into a very bad one.
I would definitely aim for July - if you need to retreat, you'll be glad of the extra light
In reply to Gazleah:
The latest I have been in Romsdal was the 1st week of September, the tops had their 1st dusting of winter snow. The Troll Wall will be Baltic!
Chris
The latest I have been in Romsdal was the 1st week of September, the tops had their 1st dusting of winter snow. The Troll Wall will be Baltic!
Chris
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