UKC

Heading to Font this October and want to concentrate on some slaby problems from Font 6c/7a upwards. Does anyone have any areas, problems that they would recommend? Also what's the best guidebook to find these problems, I've only got the Jingo Wobbly guide at the moment.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Duel
Super Prestat

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I'm also a slab fanatic - these should keep you busy for a while

Amanite Dalloïde 6c+ (7a)
area : Roche aux Sabots

Lucifer 7a
area : Roche aux Sabots

Les Sabots d'Hélène 7a (7a+)
area : 95.2

La Médaille en Chocolat 7a
area : Apremont

Lamentations 7a (6c+)
area : Apremont

Le Mur des Lamentations 7a (7a+)
area : Apremont

Hiéroglyphes 7a+
area : Apremont Ouest

L'Angle Ben's 7a+
area : Franchard Isatis

Caresse (La Marbrée direct) 7a+
area : Franchard Isatis

La Diagonale 7a+ (7a)
area : Éléphant

In reply to Sl@te Head: the ones on merville bloc-dal de fer and sourir au david??? one is sandbag 7a the other is 7c ish

In reply to beastofackworth:
Cote Coeur at Cuisiniere 7c ish

Thanks for all the recommendations so far

Which guidebook would be the best for finding these?

In reply to Sl@te Head: Apremont-Science Friction. Brilliant problrm. Only 6b but enough to get you thinking. (maybe a warm up)

In reply to Sl@te Head:
7 + 8 1789 straight ups in Fontainebleu (contains exactly what it says!!)

Essential Fontainebleau ( has a few problems at each place so not as good for that but we found the maps for getting to the areas were the easiest to use.)

Good luck

In reply to BlakeyDerbyshire:

It's 5c

In reply to Gorilla:
>

That very much depends on where you exit, 5c straight up, closer to 6a/b the further right you aim.

@ OP and Tris, thanks very much for the question and the slab list, cheers

In reply to Tris: Not sure L'Angle Ben is a slab. The easy side is slabby, but Ben's is nightmareishly vertical and entirely smooth.

Font slabs can be horrifically frustrating once knackered. For that reason, for slabs I'd head off the beaten track a bit and find some decent rock. Pretty sure there are good slabs at Gorge du Houx (definitely at about 6b, probably harder ones too) and Gorge Aux Chats, both of which have non-trashed rock.

I can't think of anything less fun than trying to climb a hard slab at Sabots or Bas Cuvier.

In reply to Sl@te Head:
Do you know this website? I've a soft spot for this, albeit easier than grades you specified:
http://bleau.info/cuvier/2005.html

In reply to Tris:

Thanks for the list! Out of interest how many of these would you describe as being crimpy?

In reply to Sl@te Head:

La Super Prestat at Bas Cuvier is crimpy!

In reply to Sl@te Head:

"live on mars" 6b at Isatis, superbly frictional climbing

not quite the grade but very worth while future classic

and of course science friction definately worth seeking out

b

Heading to Font this October and want to concentrate on some slaby problems from Font 6c/7a upwards. Does anyone have any areas, problems that they would recommend? Also what's the best guidebook to find these problems, I've only got the Jingo Wobbly guide at the moment.

Ferry booked

....anymore recommendations?

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Get the 7 & 8s guide - it'll keep you busy

In reply to Sl@te Head:

bring shorts, it was 25 degrees today and has been dirty hot all week, not good for slab climbing unfortunately.

In reply to Jon Barton:

Got this the other day...just need to narrow it down to a crimpy slab that suits my style....

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Extending the list...I'm putting in some steeper slabs as well, up to vertical. use bleaqu.info to see better...

a l'impossible nul n'est tenu 7a (Sabots)(a hard one!)

Note on "Lucifer" : several variations are possible, the hardest goes at (soft?) 7b, a bit of a one move wonder though.

Les Nombrilistes 7a+ and 7c versions, outstanding piece of rock, lonely boulder in the middle of nowhere, quite tricky to find. I can detail the access if you want take the challenge, but expect 30 minutes of walking in circles the first time, if you're good at orientation i mean.

Rataplat 7a+/b (Isatis). Weird one : balancey techy beginning into a desperate all-slopey topout (forget your technique and squeeze...)

La Dalle du pilier Légendaire 7b (isatis). Bring new skin, out-of-the-box megastiff ultratight edging shoes, and a lot of balance...

Le Mur Cordier 7a+ Cusiniere. hard hard hard, f*cking hard. crimpy.

Soirée Brésilienne 7b Cusiniere. Vertical, crimpy, techy...dyno to top!

Le mur de la fosse aux ours 7a+ 95.2 (and it's neighbours going at 7a+ and 7b)

Test de Turing 7a+ (95.2) you really need someone showing you the beta AND perfect conditions. Did it once, failed to repeat on two occasions...

La dalle de Fer 7c (Cuvier Merveille). desperate, expect to leave a lot of rubber here. Worth trying only if it's really cold...

In reply to ghisino: Thanks for the reply

La Dalle du pilier Légendaire 7b (isatis) sounds interesting, is it vertical or slabby?

Le Mur Cordier 7a+ Cusiniere. hard hard hard, f*cking hard. crimpy.
Again is this vertical or slabby ?

In reply to Sl@te Head:
http://bleau.info/isatis/8861.html - Slab
http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/474.html - Vertical, harder then a lot of 7b's in the forest!!

In reply to Sl@te Head:

There's some weird definitions of slab on this thread. Le medaille au Chocolat certainly used to be a fairly trivial couple of moves on a slab followed by a jump, the latter being very much the main event. Le mur de la fosse de l'ours (or whatever it's called) is a, well, wall in my book (the clue being in the name). So is Mur de Lamentations. Maybe slabs have changed angle since my day, and indeed since these problems were named.

More constructively, Stalingrad at the back of Cuvier, perhaps, and the one next to it (which might even be Super Prestat, sorry, it's a while since I've been).

And surely Science Friction is harder going left rather than right, isn't it? What with that dirty great bucket on the right.

jcm

In reply to Beardyman: Thanks for the reply, I'd forgotten how useful bleau info was, have now checked out most of the recommendations on here.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:



I've warned for "steeper slabs"!