This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (184) thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=426934&v=1
Repeat posters - 39
Andy
Miles - sounds like the ideal time to practice technique. Then coupled with your strength increase you’ll be a beast.
Seankenny1
Thickhead – great time and result
Steve Perry (Pezz) - good progress
Biscuit
Chris05
AJM - not much longer until you can get back to it. I think we all remember that horrible ‘can’t sleep because you can’t stop thinking about revision’ feeling.
Leon - go back and crush it !
IainRUK – that’s a massive improvement. I take it the foot’s on the mend.
Endless Winter
Grubes – it’s about fun and what you can fit in around your life. Just re-adjust the targets. I found trad targets really hard as if you weren’t up for doing an E2 but only had that visit to do it in it wasn’t enjoyable.
Derbyshire Ben – sad news but I think I know why. It's not because I admitted top roping an RP project last week is it ? Seriously, i'll certainly miss your enthusiasm and your week of straight talking advice worked wonders for many of us on here. Fair enogh tthat you feel strongly enough to take a stand. All the best.
Andy Farnell
Jkarran - the trad route sounds a bit spicey
Nomisb
LiamM – I ran for a while on the ultra I did with a guy like that. He’d done at least one 50 mile race a fortnight for the last 15 yrs. Nutters
SteveJohnB
TonyB - congratulations ! There are more important things in life. The layoff caused by Andy F’s new arrival seemed to spur him on to greatness of late.
Plexiglass Nick - I’m findig I can’t resist ‘climbing’ on my one visit to the wall a week. Going to have to be more disciplined myself and get some roped laps done.
Sonya Mc - RB doing v well again. Don’t stress over the finger. Manage it i.e. don’t do climbs that will aggravate it. If it hurts on crimps get on the overhangs
Dave B
MattRM - on holiday
Richardh – fingers really are a weak point in our bodies
petestack - how much longer has doc said it’s going to be ?
Kevster – you’re going well yourself. I need some of that Portland sunshine.
TomPR – we’ll let you off :0)
jimmykay – proper boulderers know St Bees is best. That’s an amazing tick list for a 1st time to the pebble. Nice one.
Fried :0(
Wilbur - Good stuff. What got you through it ?
Eric the red – I’ve thought that a couple of times myself. Black snot is not good.
Ayuplass - work is rubbish – end of story.
Fimm
Alan2468 - not a bad week. I did a lot of practice falling earlier this year and it really helped.
Ade7
Richard Hall - great week
Absent – 4
Allysmith
Rob Naylor
Viking
mdh
New posters – 2
Eivindf – welcome along. Onsight 7a outside but only sent 6b indoors ! That’s some serious under grading. You’ve reached a good standard v quickly. What’s your long term ambition ?
LeeS – Hi. That’s a lot of bouldering in a week. Are you an all rounder, sport climber or a boulderer who sometime climbs ? Just wondering as your long term goal of ‘getting better’ isn’t very specific ;0) You have obviously got the time, ability and dedication so with a bit of focus you could improve v quickly.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (184) thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=426934&v=1
Repeat posters - 39
Andy
Miles - sounds like the ideal time to practice technique. Then coupled with your strength increase you’ll be a beast.
Seankenny1
Thickhead – great time and result
Steve Perry (Pezz) - good progress
Biscuit
Chris05
AJM - not much longer until you can get back to it. I think we all remember that horrible ‘can’t sleep because you can’t stop thinking about revision’ feeling.
Leon - go back and crush it !
IainRUK – that’s a massive improvement. I take it the foot’s on the mend.
Endless Winter
Grubes – it’s about fun and what you can fit in around your life. Just re-adjust the targets. I found trad targets really hard as if you weren’t up for doing an E2 but only had that visit to do it in it wasn’t enjoyable.
Derbyshire Ben – sad news but I think I know why. It's not because I admitted top roping an RP project last week is it ? Seriously, i'll certainly miss your enthusiasm and your week of straight talking advice worked wonders for many of us on here. Fair enogh tthat you feel strongly enough to take a stand. All the best.
Andy Farnell
Jkarran - the trad route sounds a bit spicey
Nomisb
LiamM – I ran for a while on the ultra I did with a guy like that. He’d done at least one 50 mile race a fortnight for the last 15 yrs. Nutters
SteveJohnB
TonyB - congratulations ! There are more important things in life. The layoff caused by Andy F’s new arrival seemed to spur him on to greatness of late.
Plexiglass Nick - I’m findig I can’t resist ‘climbing’ on my one visit to the wall a week. Going to have to be more disciplined myself and get some roped laps done.
Sonya Mc - RB doing v well again. Don’t stress over the finger. Manage it i.e. don’t do climbs that will aggravate it. If it hurts on crimps get on the overhangs
Dave B
MattRM - on holiday
Richardh – fingers really are a weak point in our bodies
petestack - how much longer has doc said it’s going to be ?
Kevster – you’re going well yourself. I need some of that Portland sunshine.
TomPR – we’ll let you off :0)
jimmykay – proper boulderers know St Bees is best. That’s an amazing tick list for a 1st time to the pebble. Nice one.
Fried :0(
Wilbur - Good stuff. What got you through it ?
Eric the red – I’ve thought that a couple of times myself. Black snot is not good.
Ayuplass - work is rubbish – end of story.
Fimm
Alan2468 - not a bad week. I did a lot of practice falling earlier this year and it really helped.
Ade7
Richard Hall - great week
Absent – 4
Allysmith
Rob Naylor
Viking
mdh
New posters – 2
Eivindf – welcome along. Onsight 7a outside but only sent 6b indoors ! That’s some serious under grading. You’ve reached a good standard v quickly. What’s your long term ambition ?
LeeS – Hi. That’s a lot of bouldering in a week. Are you an all rounder, sport climber or a boulderer who sometime climbs ? Just wondering as your long term goal of ‘getting better’ isn’t very specific ;0) You have obviously got the time, ability and dedication so with a bit of focus you could improve v quickly.
In reply to biscuit:
Poor week this week.
Family wedding this weekend ( never thought i'd be present at my mother's wedding ) and the lurgy have not helped.
2 lots of core and 1 str end session went well.
Trip to Penrith wall saw me flailing about on a 7a+. NAILS ! Started off with a V5 6 move boulder problem and then went up through a roof with only smeary features for feet. Short and intense which isn't what i've been training for.
I need to stop playing about now. 1 month left before Kaly. I will post tomorrow with my targets for this week as i am going to devise a last months plan once the kids are in bed.
I'm still fat too - and the wedding won't have helped :0(
I may have to start early morning runs.
Poor week this week.
Family wedding this weekend ( never thought i'd be present at my mother's wedding ) and the lurgy have not helped.
2 lots of core and 1 str end session went well.
Trip to Penrith wall saw me flailing about on a 7a+. NAILS ! Started off with a V5 6 move boulder problem and then went up through a roof with only smeary features for feet. Short and intense which isn't what i've been training for.
I need to stop playing about now. 1 month left before Kaly. I will post tomorrow with my targets for this week as i am going to devise a last months plan once the kids are in bed.
I'm still fat too - and the wedding won't have helped :0(
I may have to start early morning runs.
In reply to biscuit: Thanks B.
STG: lose 10lbs - need to get on with this now!
MTG: decent Abbey Dash (sub-38 will do)' 18m long run by Xmas
LTG: sub 3 marathon (yawn)
M: bike 26m to work and back - fastest on the way home this year, so things are improving, and would have been faster had the roads not been wet/I hadn't been a girl on the descents
T: good quality tempo session - 1 mile warm up then 4m at 6:35, 6:35, 6:25, 6:21 then a mile cool down. Quicker than I expected and not lung-burstingly hard
W: day off, travelling
T: 5m on quayside in Newcastle - steady pace for 4.5m then workmate got a bit giddy for 800m. Grateful if anyone knows any good routes from quayside as I'm likely to be there most weeks. Anything from 6-12miles.
F: hangover/travel
S: 14m steady run with 4 slightly quicker miles (with a cheeky MP mile at the end). Felt good all the way.
S: Appalling weather but shamed into going out and doing 5m steady - felt I'd earned my afternoon in front of the telly!
STG: lose 10lbs - need to get on with this now!
MTG: decent Abbey Dash (sub-38 will do)' 18m long run by Xmas
LTG: sub 3 marathon (yawn)
M: bike 26m to work and back - fastest on the way home this year, so things are improving, and would have been faster had the roads not been wet/I hadn't been a girl on the descents
T: good quality tempo session - 1 mile warm up then 4m at 6:35, 6:35, 6:25, 6:21 then a mile cool down. Quicker than I expected and not lung-burstingly hard
W: day off, travelling
T: 5m on quayside in Newcastle - steady pace for 4.5m then workmate got a bit giddy for 800m. Grateful if anyone knows any good routes from quayside as I'm likely to be there most weeks. Anything from 6-12miles.
F: hangover/travel
S: 14m steady run with 4 slightly quicker miles (with a cheeky MP mile at the end). Felt good all the way.
S: Appalling weather but shamed into going out and doing 5m steady - felt I'd earned my afternoon in front of the telly!
In reply to biscuit:
yea feeling a bit better now.
STG (end of 2010): Onsight at least 5 HVS starting 02/08 (0/5)
Flash Browns eliminate E2 5b. Really keen to get to froggatt as I find its great for my trad head.
Do a few more E1's onsight
Boulder Font 6b outside
Train indoors properly:
Warm up properly - been an issue in the past
set up a circuit at the wall-tick
work it regularly - tick
Complete it and repeat it on two seperate visits
MTG (end of Mar 2011):
Get solid at E1
Buy a beastmaker and fit it.
Make a beastmaker routine
couple of E2s flash/onsight
LTG (summer 2011):
E3 onsight
Keep my love of climbing
M: core session 350 movements. Light weights session
T: rest
W: Hudds Wall 2hour 30 mins. good session working and doing hard problems a few routes.
T: Holmfirth circuit. 1 hour felt weak easy problems were feeling hard. maybe tired from the night before.
F: rest
S: rest
S: the depot 4 hours. warmed up doing the full whites circuit plus a few blues and a green or two. Mainly did purples some flashed others worked. I did a couple of reds wprked quite a few. Worked the yellows and a black
Disappointed with the weather so no trad but a got an outdoor bouldering session in. After todays beast of a session feel weak and broken (thats better). I was back at about V4 indoors just need to get stronger again and lose a bit of weight then push for V4 outdoors and V5 indoors.
> Grubes – it’s about fun and what you can fit in around your life. Just re-adjust the targets. I found trad targets really hard as if you weren’t up for doing an E2 but only had that visit to do it in it wasn’t enjoyable.
yea feeling a bit better now.
STG (end of 2010): Onsight at least 5 HVS starting 02/08 (0/5)
Flash Browns eliminate E2 5b. Really keen to get to froggatt as I find its great for my trad head.
Do a few more E1's onsight
Boulder Font 6b outside
Train indoors properly:
Warm up properly - been an issue in the past
set up a circuit at the wall-tick
work it regularly - tick
Complete it and repeat it on two seperate visits
MTG (end of Mar 2011):
Get solid at E1
Buy a beastmaker and fit it.
Make a beastmaker routine
couple of E2s flash/onsight
LTG (summer 2011):
E3 onsight
Keep my love of climbing
M: core session 350 movements. Light weights session
T: rest
W: Hudds Wall 2hour 30 mins. good session working and doing hard problems a few routes.
T: Holmfirth circuit. 1 hour felt weak easy problems were feeling hard. maybe tired from the night before.
F: rest
S: rest
S: the depot 4 hours. warmed up doing the full whites circuit plus a few blues and a green or two. Mainly did purples some flashed others worked. I did a couple of reds wprked quite a few. Worked the yellows and a black
Disappointed with the weather so no trad but a got an outdoor bouldering session in. After todays beast of a session feel weak and broken (thats better). I was back at about V4 indoors just need to get stronger again and lose a bit of weight then push for V4 outdoors and V5 indoors.
In reply to biscuit:
New poster, hi. Have been climbing on and off for four years. Started to climb frequently when living in Cornwall last year. Got alot of climbing in this year (indoors and out) but with no structured training regime and a shoulder dislocation in January haven't become as strong as I'd like. Trad is definatley my thing, all else feels like training. But training can be fun Am two weeks into my new training regime, and as such am still tweaking.
M - Rest (after 5 consequetive nights on the new fingerboard)
T - 1 hr on fingerboard + core
W - Evening session at new Reading wall. Routes. 2 hrs. Leading 6b cleanly.
T - 1 hr on fingerboard + core
F - Reading wall. Routes. Lead 6c clean (def. soft), lots of 6bs clean. Almost got 7a+ clean on lead. Confident for next attempt. Surely soft.
S - 1 1/2 hrs on fingerboard. New intensified routine. Core.
S - Rest
STG (spring 2011) - Confident at E2 onsight. 7a redpoint indoors and out.
MTG (2011/2012) - Onsight Wellington Crack. Onsight El Zumu Demente (inc. crux pitch), Riglos.
LTG (?) - Confident at E4/5 onsight.
VLTG (?!) - Raindogs redpoint.
New poster, hi. Have been climbing on and off for four years. Started to climb frequently when living in Cornwall last year. Got alot of climbing in this year (indoors and out) but with no structured training regime and a shoulder dislocation in January haven't become as strong as I'd like. Trad is definatley my thing, all else feels like training. But training can be fun Am two weeks into my new training regime, and as such am still tweaking.
M - Rest (after 5 consequetive nights on the new fingerboard)
T - 1 hr on fingerboard + core
W - Evening session at new Reading wall. Routes. 2 hrs. Leading 6b cleanly.
T - 1 hr on fingerboard + core
F - Reading wall. Routes. Lead 6c clean (def. soft), lots of 6bs clean. Almost got 7a+ clean on lead. Confident for next attempt. Surely soft.
S - 1 1/2 hrs on fingerboard. New intensified routine. Core.
S - Rest
STG (spring 2011) - Confident at E2 onsight. 7a redpoint indoors and out.
MTG (2011/2012) - Onsight Wellington Crack. Onsight El Zumu Demente (inc. crux pitch), Riglos.
LTG (?) - Confident at E4/5 onsight.
VLTG (?!) - Raindogs redpoint.
In reply to biscuit:
STG: :5 days of proper training(almost). Onsight 6b+(done).
MTG: A revamped training schedule for 2011+. Nadin's Traverse.
LTG(2010): 20 HVS points (done). (12)12 e-points(done). 2 sets of 4x4(v1,v2,v2,v2)(done). Tippler & Desperation.
VLTG(2029?): Left Wall & Regent Street.
Falls this week:0 (4 this year)
Weight: 10'0", 11.6% fat (if it gets to 12% I'll cut out the salad side dishes).
Focus: Climbing.
Mon: Core (280) & Antagonistic.
Tue: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(v1,v2,v2,v2) 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) * 2 sets.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Broughton bouldering 3*6a, 4*6a+, 4*6b, attempts on 6b+ (almost on a few) & 6c, focus on movement.
Fri: Core(280).
Sat: Sport (max onsight 6b+, max tr 6c). Followed by celebration curry & beer.
Sun: Knackered back carrying the boy in his back pack. Note to self: put the boy on a diet.
Solved the recent lack of energy problem by eating about 125g of peanut kernals around 3pm in the afternoon. Loads of calories but it does the job. Five days proper training still didn't happen this week, though not due to motivation or energy. I took the family for a walk around Stoney today, carrying my son in one of those rucksacks. Wow, how heavy is he?? Owwwwwwww. Back out & no training for me on Sunday.
Got the 4x4 LTG on Tuesday (9 months since this was set). Managed the 6b+ onsight STG(Rain Dance @ Horseshoe) on saturday, the route felt reasonably comfortable so maybe try something harder next time.
Not been to Broughton for a few years, last time I went I was struggling on a lot of the 6a+ problems. I thought it would be a good benchmark test for me so went on Thursday. The 6a+ problems that I used to find nails went quite easy & being able to complete 6bs at the place really inspired me. I left after two hours with my hands completely shredded.
STG: Nadin's Traverse.
STG: :5 days of proper training(almost). Onsight 6b+(done).
MTG: A revamped training schedule for 2011+. Nadin's Traverse.
LTG(2010): 20 HVS points (done). (12)12 e-points(done). 2 sets of 4x4(v1,v2,v2,v2)(done). Tippler & Desperation.
VLTG(2029?): Left Wall & Regent Street.
Falls this week:0 (4 this year)
Weight: 10'0", 11.6% fat (if it gets to 12% I'll cut out the salad side dishes).
Focus: Climbing.
Mon: Core (280) & Antagonistic.
Tue: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(v1,v2,v2,v2) 4(4),4(4),4(4),4(4) * 2 sets.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Broughton bouldering 3*6a, 4*6a+, 4*6b, attempts on 6b+ (almost on a few) & 6c, focus on movement.
Fri: Core(280).
Sat: Sport (max onsight 6b+, max tr 6c). Followed by celebration curry & beer.
Sun: Knackered back carrying the boy in his back pack. Note to self: put the boy on a diet.
Solved the recent lack of energy problem by eating about 125g of peanut kernals around 3pm in the afternoon. Loads of calories but it does the job. Five days proper training still didn't happen this week, though not due to motivation or energy. I took the family for a walk around Stoney today, carrying my son in one of those rucksacks. Wow, how heavy is he?? Owwwwwwww. Back out & no training for me on Sunday.
Got the 4x4 LTG on Tuesday (9 months since this was set). Managed the 6b+ onsight STG(Rain Dance @ Horseshoe) on saturday, the route felt reasonably comfortable so maybe try something harder next time.
Not been to Broughton for a few years, last time I went I was struggling on a lot of the 6a+ problems. I thought it would be a good benchmark test for me so went on Thursday. The 6a+ problems that I used to find nails went quite easy & being able to complete 6bs at the place really inspired me. I left after two hours with my hands completely shredded.
STG: Nadin's Traverse.
In reply to lrandall:
Forgot to mention:
VSTG (wkend 16th October) - Onsight Megalithic Man, Horseshoe. Onsight The Rasp.
Forgot to mention:
VSTG (wkend 16th October) - Onsight Megalithic Man, Horseshoe. Onsight The Rasp.
In reply to biscuit: Thanks again.
It look like the Lime routing season has come to an end, so I'm, changing my focus to bouldering. New goal - at least Font 7B+ this winter, if not harder.
Mon - rest
Tues -Volume bouldering at AW, touches and ladders on the Campus board.
Wed - Fingerboard, repeaters only 30 mins
Thurs - Fingerboard, pull-ups only 30 mins
Fri/Sat - family/rest
Sun - Rock-over in Manchester. First visit, won't be the last. Impressed with the place. Set a 3 attempt limit on every problem. Did most of the reds (V4-6) and the whites (V4-5) first or second go, still some to go back for, a fair few problems on the comp wall as well. Didn't try anything hard as I was there for the volume. Beasted after 2 and 3/4 hours.
Andy F
It look like the Lime routing season has come to an end, so I'm, changing my focus to bouldering. New goal - at least Font 7B+ this winter, if not harder.
Mon - rest
Tues -Volume bouldering at AW, touches and ladders on the Campus board.
Wed - Fingerboard, repeaters only 30 mins
Thurs - Fingerboard, pull-ups only 30 mins
Fri/Sat - family/rest
Sun - Rock-over in Manchester. First visit, won't be the last. Impressed with the place. Set a 3 attempt limit on every problem. Did most of the reds (V4-6) and the whites (V4-5) first or second go, still some to go back for, a fair few problems on the comp wall as well. Didn't try anything hard as I was there for the volume. Beasted after 2 and 3/4 hours.
Andy F
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers.
A gentle week recovering, will be setting about training for Snowdonia from midweek.
M: Rest
T: 6mile trail run 360m ascent
W: 4.5mile trail run 150m ascent
T: Rest
F: 7mile road run 200m ascent 6.55min/mile pace
S: 6mile trail run 360m ascent. 6.5mile walk Berwyns (camping trip)
S: 6mile walk Berwyns. 3mile trail run 240m ascent
Cheers.
A gentle week recovering, will be setting about training for Snowdonia from midweek.
M: Rest
T: 6mile trail run 360m ascent
W: 4.5mile trail run 150m ascent
T: Rest
F: 7mile road run 200m ascent 6.55min/mile pace
S: 6mile trail run 360m ascent. 6.5mile walk Berwyns (camping trip)
S: 6mile walk Berwyns. 3mile trail run 240m ascent
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks biscuit.
STG: Sort dodgy finger out, stay fit.
MTG: RP 6c then 7a.
LTG: Gnarly US cracks.
M: Light weights session.
T: Run, 2.6m at 8:53/m
W: Yoga class.
T: Rest.
F: Weights session, then slightly epic drive to Devon.
S: Wedding in Devon. Much eating and drinking.
S: Return to London. Run 2.45m at 9:38/m.
I've been on holiday this week, catching up with life and generally having a chilled time. Done lots of exercise and icing of the knackered finger. Started on a weights programme to gain a bit of strength whilst finger recovering, still feeling my way on that one.
Thanks biscuit.
STG: Sort dodgy finger out, stay fit.
MTG: RP 6c then 7a.
LTG: Gnarly US cracks.
M: Light weights session.
T: Run, 2.6m at 8:53/m
W: Yoga class.
T: Rest.
F: Weights session, then slightly epic drive to Devon.
S: Wedding in Devon. Much eating and drinking.
S: Return to London. Run 2.45m at 9:38/m.
I've been on holiday this week, catching up with life and generally having a chilled time. Done lots of exercise and icing of the knackered finger. Started on a weights programme to gain a bit of strength whilst finger recovering, still feeling my way on that one.
In reply to biscuit:
I wouldn't mind so much if it translated into effective and focused revision during the day, but it rarely seems to. I should be panicking/working a lot harder than I am now! Especially true since I really want this to be my last session of them - most people aren't daft enough to keep doing exams this long after uni!
Anyway, I cycled to work and back this week. Tried to keep in a higher gear on the uphills to build some ability to climb hills - my ability plummets as soon as the incline steepens at all. 47km round trip.
Hopefully have more exciting stuff to report from midweek next week - wall after exam and maybe a day outdoors after a wedding Saturday near Exeter...
AJM
> AJM - not much longer until you can get back to it. I think we all remember that horrible ‘can’t sleep because you can’t stop thinking about revision’ feeling.
I wouldn't mind so much if it translated into effective and focused revision during the day, but it rarely seems to. I should be panicking/working a lot harder than I am now! Especially true since I really want this to be my last session of them - most people aren't daft enough to keep doing exams this long after uni!
Anyway, I cycled to work and back this week. Tried to keep in a higher gear on the uphills to build some ability to climb hills - my ability plummets as soon as the incline steepens at all. 47km round trip.
Hopefully have more exciting stuff to report from midweek next week - wall after exam and maybe a day outdoors after a wedding Saturday near Exeter...
AJM
In reply to biscuit: Long term ambition is to send a 8a. That would be cool, but it's a long road to that.
M - Cragging, mostly putting up topropes for gf. Sent a 6b+ started some hard 7a slab projects.
T - Gym, rope. Sent 6c second go, STG done.
W - Rest
T - Gym, bouldering. Made new contacts, started one problem
F - Rest. Very sore from yesterday's session
S - Gym, bouldering. Worked problems and started three new ones
S - Gym, rope. Started one 7a project. New partner, low psyche.
STG - 7a on granite
MTG - Be able to work the campus board properly (open hand, all the way up and down)x4
LTG - Send 7b+ at Moon Hill, Yangshuo upcoming 2011 winter/spring trip
VLTG - 8a
Done:
STG - Send 6c indoors
Happy with the week. I'm getting back on form, and starting to feel very strong. Enjoying the boulder sessions very much
M - Cragging, mostly putting up topropes for gf. Sent a 6b+ started some hard 7a slab projects.
T - Gym, rope. Sent 6c second go, STG done.
W - Rest
T - Gym, bouldering. Made new contacts, started one problem
F - Rest. Very sore from yesterday's session
S - Gym, bouldering. Worked problems and started three new ones
S - Gym, rope. Started one 7a project. New partner, low psyche.
STG - 7a on granite
MTG - Be able to work the campus board properly (open hand, all the way up and down)x4
LTG - Send 7b+ at Moon Hill, Yangshuo upcoming 2011 winter/spring trip
VLTG - 8a
Done:
STG - Send 6c indoors
Happy with the week. I'm getting back on form, and starting to feel very strong. Enjoying the boulder sessions very much
In reply to biscuit: thanks as ever biscuit.
Weekly: gym x3. physio exercises and ice/heat treatment for achilles.
STG: go running in the park at least twice
MTG: stay healthy and get back to running 10 miles+. 19 minute 5k. get some 'wishlist' climbs ticked off.
LTG: (all 2011) road marathon, borrowdale fell race, yorkshireman marathon, lead some VS's
VLTG: long run, 16 june 2012
M - gym inc slowish 1 mile on treadmill
T - long drive, few drinks
W - long drive, exhausted
T - gym inc slowish 1 mile on treadmill
F - rest
S - 3 mile run in woods
S - gym
ice/heat treatment for achilles 6 days out of 7
no reaction from 3 mile run on saturday - need to get out a few times a week before increasing speed or distance.
Weekly: gym x3. physio exercises and ice/heat treatment for achilles.
STG: go running in the park at least twice
MTG: stay healthy and get back to running 10 miles+. 19 minute 5k. get some 'wishlist' climbs ticked off.
LTG: (all 2011) road marathon, borrowdale fell race, yorkshireman marathon, lead some VS's
VLTG: long run, 16 june 2012
M - gym inc slowish 1 mile on treadmill
T - long drive, few drinks
W - long drive, exhausted
T - gym inc slowish 1 mile on treadmill
F - rest
S - 3 mile run in woods
S - gym
ice/heat treatment for achilles 6 days out of 7
no reaction from 3 mile run on saturday - need to get out a few times a week before increasing speed or distance.
In reply to biscuit:
A really rubbish week for me involving only one run and no climbing. Was supposed to go for my 11mile run on Monday but my Grandfather passed away last Sunday and I was feeling pretty crappy so didn't run or climb.
Tues I did manage to get the gym. I had a couple of hours to spare at Uni so thought I'd see how long I could bear the treadmill for. Managed 6miles on the damn thing. I'm never doing that again! Anything other than 3mls is utterly soul destroying.
Wed I had to go to an award ceremony so had no time to climb or run.
I seem to have contracted some sort of Fresher's Lurgy. Feel utterly sh*t. Full of snot, sore throat, tummy upset blah blah blah. I havn't done much at all since Thurs.
Next week won't be much better as I have G/dad's funeral tomorrow
I miss 4hrs worth of very important lectures on radiographic imaging of the hip and pelvis so will need to spend time catching up. And I've got an intense work load at Uni for the next couple of weeks. Not sure if I'll make my Wed climbing session either.
Gah!
I should fit in some time for a half hr in the gym to do a 3miler here and there. Really regretting saying I'd do this half marathon as it's eating into precious hill time to get fit for winter.
RB as usual is a star. She was at a BLLC training event this weekend and onsighted 6c+, got a lot of the way up a 7b and about half way up a 7c!
A really rubbish week for me involving only one run and no climbing. Was supposed to go for my 11mile run on Monday but my Grandfather passed away last Sunday and I was feeling pretty crappy so didn't run or climb.
Tues I did manage to get the gym. I had a couple of hours to spare at Uni so thought I'd see how long I could bear the treadmill for. Managed 6miles on the damn thing. I'm never doing that again! Anything other than 3mls is utterly soul destroying.
Wed I had to go to an award ceremony so had no time to climb or run.
I seem to have contracted some sort of Fresher's Lurgy. Feel utterly sh*t. Full of snot, sore throat, tummy upset blah blah blah. I havn't done much at all since Thurs.
Next week won't be much better as I have G/dad's funeral tomorrow
I miss 4hrs worth of very important lectures on radiographic imaging of the hip and pelvis so will need to spend time catching up. And I've got an intense work load at Uni for the next couple of weeks. Not sure if I'll make my Wed climbing session either.
Gah!
I should fit in some time for a half hr in the gym to do a 3miler here and there. Really regretting saying I'd do this half marathon as it's eating into precious hill time to get fit for winter.
RB as usual is a star. She was at a BLLC training event this weekend and onsighted 6c+, got a lot of the way up a 7b and about half way up a 7c!
In reply to biscuit: Yea hope so
Mon/Thurs/Sat: Climbing lots of overhanging stuff, still nothing harder than 6b+.
My wrist seems to be continuing to improve slowly but surely.
STG: heal wrist/avoid freshers' flu
MTG: F7b indoors, F7a outdoors by July 2011
Mon/Thurs/Sat: Climbing lots of overhanging stuff, still nothing harder than 6b+.
My wrist seems to be continuing to improve slowly but surely.
STG: heal wrist/avoid freshers' flu
MTG: F7b indoors, F7a outdoors by July 2011
In reply to lrandall: Ha, that's so strange! My sister (also an L Randall) has just started up climbing and I thought for a second she'd got so keen she was posting on this forum in her first week of climbing!! Anyway, as I can see you're not my sister...
In reply to biscuit:
Got out on the grit for about the first time in a month this weekend. So happy to be out climbing again!! Did Rasp Direct, Block and Tackle, Bat out of Hell and Rowley Birkin QC which was very much a surprise. After all that time off the rock I thought I'd be total pants.
Other than that just lots of DIY and the odd bit of training in my cellar to keep the muscles going cold on me.
STG: 50 upside downers
MTG: 100 Upside downers
LTG: 200 Upside downers
PB: 45
M: 500 Dish-tucks
T: 250 Dish-tucks
W: 300 Basic core
Th: Rest
Fr: 200 Upside downers
S: 200 Upside downers
Su: 200 Basic core - oooh, too tired to do anything!
Got out on the grit for about the first time in a month this weekend. So happy to be out climbing again!! Did Rasp Direct, Block and Tackle, Bat out of Hell and Rowley Birkin QC which was very much a surprise. After all that time off the rock I thought I'd be total pants.
Other than that just lots of DIY and the odd bit of training in my cellar to keep the muscles going cold on me.
STG: 50 upside downers
MTG: 100 Upside downers
LTG: 200 Upside downers
PB: 45
M: 500 Dish-tucks
T: 250 Dish-tucks
W: 300 Basic core
Th: Rest
Fr: 200 Upside downers
S: 200 Upside downers
Su: 200 Basic core - oooh, too tired to do anything!
In reply to biscuit:
Many thanks Biscuit.
STG - 25:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 5/10 leads), 12st weight TICK, Onsight 5+ (with out any dogging)
MTG - 25:30 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs weight, Climb 6a
LTG - 25:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 7lbs, Climb 6b
VLTG - Lead E1, Climb 6c, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st TICK
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 7k run
Been on holiday so not got much exercise in. Got my weight down to 12st for the first time in a long time. I'm pretty chuffed about that all in, over the past two years I've managed to loose 4 stone in total and 12st was my original goal weight, so I'm glad to have finally got there. Now I've got to focus in on getting the body fat down. Hopefully won't put much on while I'm on holiday. Got to get a couple of more runs in next week, but doubt I'll do any climbing. Which is a pity as there's some nice climbing up in Oregon (I'm in Portland).
Many thanks Biscuit.
STG - 25:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 5/10 leads), 12st weight TICK, Onsight 5+ (with out any dogging)
MTG - 25:30 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs weight, Climb 6a
LTG - 25:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 7lbs, Climb 6b
VLTG - Lead E1, Climb 6c, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st TICK
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 7k run
Been on holiday so not got much exercise in. Got my weight down to 12st for the first time in a long time. I'm pretty chuffed about that all in, over the past two years I've managed to loose 4 stone in total and 12st was my original goal weight, so I'm glad to have finally got there. Now I've got to focus in on getting the body fat down. Hopefully won't put much on while I'm on holiday. Got to get a couple of more runs in next week, but doubt I'll do any climbing. Which is a pity as there's some nice climbing up in Oregon (I'm in Portland).
In reply to biscuit: Cheers
Mon-Wed: Very little. Felt achey and shivery - tried to run on Tue, but cut it off after about 2.5k when I started feeling like I was going to vomit.
Thu: 58k cycle, fairly flat route, moderate to hard effort.
Fri: Turbo Trainer sprint interval session, intervals between 200-800m.
Sat: 12k run, including 7.5k tempo effort. V hard, but good and could possibly have done a bit more distance if lower back hadn't twinged (I think the shoes I was in need retiring).
Sun: 23k run, steady pace, but entirely soaking conditions.
Apart from the loss of a few days earlier in the week, not a bad one with some decent sessions. Had hoped to do more on long run, but given the conditions just getting out was enough of a challenge.
I've entered the Newcastle Town Moor Marathon, so I've got about 7 or so weeks to get another few long runs in and some decent steady pace efforts.
Mon-Wed: Very little. Felt achey and shivery - tried to run on Tue, but cut it off after about 2.5k when I started feeling like I was going to vomit.
Thu: 58k cycle, fairly flat route, moderate to hard effort.
Fri: Turbo Trainer sprint interval session, intervals between 200-800m.
Sat: 12k run, including 7.5k tempo effort. V hard, but good and could possibly have done a bit more distance if lower back hadn't twinged (I think the shoes I was in need retiring).
Sun: 23k run, steady pace, but entirely soaking conditions.
Apart from the loss of a few days earlier in the week, not a bad one with some decent sessions. Had hoped to do more on long run, but given the conditions just getting out was enough of a challenge.
I've entered the Newcastle Town Moor Marathon, so I've got about 7 or so weeks to get another few long runs in and some decent steady pace efforts.
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
Great list of routes anytime nevermind for a month off. Are you planning on repeating pete's new routes soon?
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Got out on the grit for about the first time in a month this weekend. So happy to be out climbing again!! Did Rasp Direct, Block and Tackle, Bat out of Hell and Rowley Birkin QC which was very much a surprise. After all that time off the rock I thought I'd be total pants.
>
> Got out on the grit for about the first time in a month this weekend. So happy to be out climbing again!! Did Rasp Direct, Block and Tackle, Bat out of Hell and Rowley Birkin QC which was very much a surprise. After all that time off the rock I thought I'd be total pants.
Great list of routes anytime nevermind for a month off. Are you planning on repeating pete's new routes soon?
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit.
Another week with no (almost) climbing.
Monday - work
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - jog 30mins
Thursday - work
Friday - work
Saturday - Walk 3h, queue 15mins to buy some Nespresso capsule, get fed-up, leave shop.
Sunday - Due to expected bad weather had left my mat elsewhere, and planned to do a long mushroom picking walk around Font. Weather fantastic, climbed one orange problem and collected lots of mushrooms + chestnuts.
Plus: trying to do some antagonistic weight stuff + push-ups everyday.
oh and still squeezing pieces of foam.
Thanks Biscuit.
Another week with no (almost) climbing.
Monday - work
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - jog 30mins
Thursday - work
Friday - work
Saturday - Walk 3h, queue 15mins to buy some Nespresso capsule, get fed-up, leave shop.
Sunday - Due to expected bad weather had left my mat elsewhere, and planned to do a long mushroom picking walk around Font. Weather fantastic, climbed one orange problem and collected lots of mushrooms + chestnuts.
Plus: trying to do some antagonistic weight stuff + push-ups everyday.
oh and still squeezing pieces of foam.
Thanks biscuit
M: BM repeaters and max hangs, core (500) & elbow weights
T: Felt ill so rested
W: BM warm up (3*30 moves foot on), max hangs, cool down (3*30 moves foot on), run 4m, core (450) & elbow weights
T: 60 length swim (crawl)
F: rest
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & RHS, feeling close to the cave right-hand
S: 7m trail and road run & core (410)
Its been a farily good week, rubbish milleage again due to sore calf but its hopefully improving. I have been experimenting with max hangs on the BM and have been pleasently suprised. Felt good to be out on Sat although skin got sore very quickly.
M: BM repeaters and max hangs, core (500) & elbow weights
T: Felt ill so rested
W: BM warm up (3*30 moves foot on), max hangs, cool down (3*30 moves foot on), run 4m, core (450) & elbow weights
T: 60 length swim (crawl)
F: rest
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & RHS, feeling close to the cave right-hand
S: 7m trail and road run & core (410)
Its been a farily good week, rubbish milleage again due to sore calf but its hopefully improving. I have been experimenting with max hangs on the BM and have been pleasently suprised. Felt good to be out on Sat although skin got sore very quickly.
In reply to mattrm:
Losing 4 stone is pretty impressive - good on you!
I'm jealous you're in Portland though, lovely place.
>
> Weight - 12st TICK
>
> Weight - 12st TICK
>
Losing 4 stone is pretty impressive - good on you!
I'm jealous you're in Portland though, lovely place.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit. The Chasms route is safe at least (unless it topples over!) and looking back at my description it does sound unlikely but that's how it feels. Anyway, it's something to train for at least.
I've had a disjointed few weeks with lots of trips away and have been generally a bit lazy/unrealistic meaning all my STG have been missed. My MTG don't look any more realistic either. New (seasonally appropriate) goals have been set.
M: Indoor routes, Oaklands. Good long session working stuff taking lots of falls and ticking little. Feeling heavy and out of shape.
T:
W: Indoor Routes, Harrogate. Good volume session with 7a and 7a+ flashes, near 7b flash (then failed to RP it).
T: Run 4.32mi (8:08 pace).
F:
S: Pished in Dublin
S: Hungover in Dublin
Coming week: Another slightly disjointed week in the pipeline unfortunately but hopefully I'll get an afternoon out on the rock at the weekend. Some running and some indoor climbing.
Old Goals:
*STG - By October:
Running 10+mi/week (~4mi/week. Missed)
7b+ RP (Does WYSYWIG count, probably not. Missed)
5 E3s in reasonable style (Nil. Missed)
*M/LTG - By 2011:
E5 (Still possible though probably RP)
V8 (Still possible)
F7c / Comedy / Bradda (Unlikely)
sub 1:45 1/2 (Very unlikely)
New goals:
STG (by 2011):
7c+ indoor pyramid [1x7c+, 1x7c, 2x7b+, 3x7b]
Run twice per week or better
MTG (by June):
E5
V8
7c
Aspiration:
8a
Divided Years
Thanks Biscuit. The Chasms route is safe at least (unless it topples over!) and looking back at my description it does sound unlikely but that's how it feels. Anyway, it's something to train for at least.
I've had a disjointed few weeks with lots of trips away and have been generally a bit lazy/unrealistic meaning all my STG have been missed. My MTG don't look any more realistic either. New (seasonally appropriate) goals have been set.
M: Indoor routes, Oaklands. Good long session working stuff taking lots of falls and ticking little. Feeling heavy and out of shape.
T:
W: Indoor Routes, Harrogate. Good volume session with 7a and 7a+ flashes, near 7b flash (then failed to RP it).
T: Run 4.32mi (8:08 pace).
F:
S: Pished in Dublin
S: Hungover in Dublin
Coming week: Another slightly disjointed week in the pipeline unfortunately but hopefully I'll get an afternoon out on the rock at the weekend. Some running and some indoor climbing.
Old Goals:
*STG - By October:
Running 10+mi/week (~4mi/week. Missed)
7b+ RP (Does WYSYWIG count, probably not. Missed)
5 E3s in reasonable style (Nil. Missed)
*M/LTG - By 2011:
E5 (Still possible though probably RP)
V8 (Still possible)
F7c / Comedy / Bradda (Unlikely)
sub 1:45 1/2 (Very unlikely)
New goals:
STG (by 2011):
7c+ indoor pyramid [1x7c+, 1x7c, 2x7b+, 3x7b]
Run twice per week or better
MTG (by June):
E5
V8
7c
Aspiration:
8a
Divided Years
In reply to mattrm:
Didn't realise you'd lost that much overall. Sounds like you've done it in a very healthy, steady way and i am sure it will now stay off long-term because of that and your attitude.
Awesome effort and a big congratulations.
Didn't realise you'd lost that much overall. Sounds like you've done it in a very healthy, steady way and i am sure it will now stay off long-term because of that and your attitude.
Awesome effort and a big congratulations.
In reply to biscuit: this is my first post so here goes.
I am really terrible at training and what makes it worst i have the majority of facilites free and available to me working at a wall! though this can have its motivation issues.
STG - Get into a regular routine that will start pushing me
MTG - Boulder v6 comfortably and route 7b rp
LTG - Onsight 7b boulder v9
Please feel free to berate me if i forget to post!
I am really terrible at training and what makes it worst i have the majority of facilites free and available to me working at a wall! though this can have its motivation issues.
STG - Get into a regular routine that will start pushing me
MTG - Boulder v6 comfortably and route 7b rp
LTG - Onsight 7b boulder v9
Please feel free to berate me if i forget to post!
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit,
Short version for this satisfying week, not sure if computers will feature in the rest of the week.
The question is when 2 publications differ in grade, should I take the hardest grade by default?
Mon:
Tues: Supposed to climb, but got tempted away.
Wed: Craggy Is - bouldered upto 6b - the 6b+'s I tried shut me down...boo. Lead too, onsite all tried, though nothing in 7's.
Thur: Indoor routes @ usual wall - still working one of the 5 hard routes I have targeted, feel the red will go soon, just need some luck.
Fri:
Sat: Cheddar - onsite 7a (shaking like a leaf), 2nd try redpoint of 7a+ (or 7a in my book - here comes the man) and on site attempt at a 7b (missed hold out & buggered sequence, might have gone clean otherwise)
Sun:
In Peak this weekend, weather fingers crossed an E point accumulation ambition.
Cheers! Kev
Cheers biscuit,
Short version for this satisfying week, not sure if computers will feature in the rest of the week.
The question is when 2 publications differ in grade, should I take the hardest grade by default?
Mon:
Tues: Supposed to climb, but got tempted away.
Wed: Craggy Is - bouldered upto 6b - the 6b+'s I tried shut me down...boo. Lead too, onsite all tried, though nothing in 7's.
Thur: Indoor routes @ usual wall - still working one of the 5 hard routes I have targeted, feel the red will go soon, just need some luck.
Fri:
Sat: Cheddar - onsite 7a (shaking like a leaf), 2nd try redpoint of 7a+ (or 7a in my book - here comes the man) and on site attempt at a 7b (missed hold out & buggered sequence, might have gone clean otherwise)
Sun:
In Peak this weekend, weather fingers crossed an E point accumulation ambition.
Cheers! Kev
In reply to Kevster:
Do you mean "get that man"? If so, it's given 7a these days (was my first 7a+ before the new guide came out).
Which was the 7b? Always nice to see people sampling the joys of cheddar. Trust you enjoyed shakin like a leaf?
Do you mean "get that man"? If so, it's given 7a these days (was my first 7a+ before the new guide came out).
Which was the 7b? Always nice to see people sampling the joys of cheddar. Trust you enjoyed shakin like a leaf?
In reply to biscuit:
STG: V6 indoors or outdoors (End of October 2010)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Monday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: rest
Thursday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Friday: rest
Saturday: visit family in Yorkshire, sadly no climbing
Sunday: visit family
Pootling along nicely at V5, just need to find some V6's that are not hideous. I got to the end jug on Mark's Roof Left Hand last week but couldn't hold the swing, so am wanting to get back on it. got 3 weeks before i go to Font and i really want a v6 in the forest!
STG: V6 indoors or outdoors (End of October 2010)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Monday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: rest
Thursday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Friday: rest
Saturday: visit family in Yorkshire, sadly no climbing
Sunday: visit family
Pootling along nicely at V5, just need to find some V6's that are not hideous. I got to the end jug on Mark's Roof Left Hand last week but couldn't hold the swing, so am wanting to get back on it. got 3 weeks before i go to Font and i really want a v6 in the forest!
In reply to biscuit: Food is still there but improving all the time. Stride is normal so was happy to enter the marathon and it wasn't a factor at all..
m: 5 mile run
t: rest working in Cambridge..
w: 6 mile run up Elidir Fawr
t: lunch: 6 x 800's, 2:31-2:39 so happy with those. off 90s rest. pm: 7 mile trail run
f: rest
s: 4 mile trail run along great glen way
s: Lochness Marathon. 2:53, bit gutted really. Was said to be a quick course but in reality there are several significant sharp climbs and the odd long one, even the down hill start doesn't help too much as you just trash yourself..anyway started OK 62 for 10 miles, 1:22 for the half, so 2:45 was on, but hot the undulations and over worked trying to hold 2:45 and blew, after food and a toilet stop I got going again towards the end, but for 4 or 5 miles I was going slower than I would in a 100k..harsh lesson to run the course and not your schedule..wife had a good one 3:06, 16 seconds off 2nd in a major marathon, still bagged £200 so she paid for our weekend away..
m: 5 mile run
t: rest working in Cambridge..
w: 6 mile run up Elidir Fawr
t: lunch: 6 x 800's, 2:31-2:39 so happy with those. off 90s rest. pm: 7 mile trail run
f: rest
s: 4 mile trail run along great glen way
s: Lochness Marathon. 2:53, bit gutted really. Was said to be a quick course but in reality there are several significant sharp climbs and the odd long one, even the down hill start doesn't help too much as you just trash yourself..anyway started OK 62 for 10 miles, 1:22 for the half, so 2:45 was on, but hot the undulations and over worked trying to hold 2:45 and blew, after food and a toilet stop I got going again towards the end, but for 4 or 5 miles I was going slower than I would in a 100k..harsh lesson to run the course and not your schedule..wife had a good one 3:06, 16 seconds off 2nd in a major marathon, still bagged £200 so she paid for our weekend away..
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit.
Great week for climbing. Climbed with new people and met up with some old friends, had great fun!
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Moving house
T: Bouldering at The Roaches for around 4 hours in the drizzle and fog. Mint session - strangely! I'm totally psyched about a boulder problem which I've done today for the first time. I've always just walked past it thinking 'I don't have the confidence to climb that' and mumbled on by. Well today I was climbing with someone who always pushes the right buttons with me, he's a great partner and always brings out my best side. So after warming up, we walked over to Three Pocket Slab (V3) up at The Roaches (Enclosure Boulders) and after working it for a while, first Si and then myself both climbed it. Woa what a top-out! Certainly had my heart going! To top it off it was drizzling too! I'm so happy about this and I've proved to myself that I can do committing moves in what I'd class as quite a dangerous position. Definitely a high-point in my climbing confidence and I handled it just fine :-D
W: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Mainly threshold in the cave and on the woody.
T: Rest
F: Working
S: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Strength and endurance. 20 min V1/2 ARC, 30 min on woody (small holds, directional and dynamic movement, double throws and footwork). Threshold bouldering in Cave and on V8 traverse.
S: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Mainly mid-level circuits up to around V4/5.
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Porridge (cooked with boiled milk, NOT microwaved) with chopped up fruit (1 apple and 1 banana / strawberries) / beens / eggs.
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on homemade wholegrain bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: 500mg Cod Liver Oil and 500mg Fish Oil (plus vits).
Cheers biscuit.
Great week for climbing. Climbed with new people and met up with some old friends, had great fun!
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Moving house
T: Bouldering at The Roaches for around 4 hours in the drizzle and fog. Mint session - strangely! I'm totally psyched about a boulder problem which I've done today for the first time. I've always just walked past it thinking 'I don't have the confidence to climb that' and mumbled on by. Well today I was climbing with someone who always pushes the right buttons with me, he's a great partner and always brings out my best side. So after warming up, we walked over to Three Pocket Slab (V3) up at The Roaches (Enclosure Boulders) and after working it for a while, first Si and then myself both climbed it. Woa what a top-out! Certainly had my heart going! To top it off it was drizzling too! I'm so happy about this and I've proved to myself that I can do committing moves in what I'd class as quite a dangerous position. Definitely a high-point in my climbing confidence and I handled it just fine :-D
W: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Mainly threshold in the cave and on the woody.
T: Rest
F: Working
S: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Strength and endurance. 20 min V1/2 ARC, 30 min on woody (small holds, directional and dynamic movement, double throws and footwork). Threshold bouldering in Cave and on V8 traverse.
S: Bouldering at Awesome Walls. Mainly mid-level circuits up to around V4/5.
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Porridge (cooked with boiled milk, NOT microwaved) with chopped up fruit (1 apple and 1 banana / strawberries) / beens / eggs.
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on homemade wholegrain bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: 500mg Cod Liver Oil and 500mg Fish Oil (plus vits).
In reply to biscuit:
Didn't really say anything apart from likely to be a fortnight before I noticed much of a difference (the day after it happened and thinking just bruising when I'm now pretty sure I broke something this time). But things are improving at last and I've started running again...
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: Short Grey Mare's, 2.6 miles/c.800 ft (jogging, really)
F: Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,200 ft (still pretty easy, but 'grabbed' by the ribs once afterwards)
S: Single big lap, 2.9 miles (little bit harder)
S: Single big lap, 2.9 miles (not exactly fast, but quicker again)
Now trying to juggle reestablishing the running habit with school show setting up/rehearsals these past three days and performances Tues, Wed, Thurs this week. So out for the 'single big lap' (for when any run is better than no run!) again just before dark tonight, but maybe no bad thing needing the discipline of squeezing in the runs without having time to make them much longer. Hopefully climbing again this weekend with my USA-based brother (no mega-physical roofs... not that I'd be climbing such things 100% fit), but need to see what the weather's doing where!
> petestack - how much longer has doc said it’s going to be ?
Didn't really say anything apart from likely to be a fortnight before I noticed much of a difference (the day after it happened and thinking just bruising when I'm now pretty sure I broke something this time). But things are improving at last and I've started running again...
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: Short Grey Mare's, 2.6 miles/c.800 ft (jogging, really)
F: Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,200 ft (still pretty easy, but 'grabbed' by the ribs once afterwards)
S: Single big lap, 2.9 miles (little bit harder)
S: Single big lap, 2.9 miles (not exactly fast, but quicker again)
Now trying to juggle reestablishing the running habit with school show setting up/rehearsals these past three days and performances Tues, Wed, Thurs this week. So out for the 'single big lap' (for when any run is better than no run!) again just before dark tonight, but maybe no bad thing needing the discipline of squeezing in the runs without having time to make them much longer. Hopefully climbing again this weekend with my USA-based brother (no mega-physical roofs... not that I'd be climbing such things 100% fit), but need to see what the weather's doing where!
In reply to Kevster:
Nice one in Cheddar! Sounds like a top weekend.
Depends, are you a glass half full or a glass half empty kind of guy?
Personally if there is any uncertainty in the grade I take the lower of the two unless I think it is obviously wrong. It feels harsh but I prefer the feeling of having a solid foundation of routes with no uncertainty than that continual nagging doubt...
Nice one in Cheddar! Sounds like a top weekend.
> The question is when 2 publications differ in grade, should I take the hardest grade by default?
Depends, are you a glass half full or a glass half empty kind of guy?
Personally if there is any uncertainty in the grade I take the lower of the two unless I think it is obviously wrong. It feels harsh but I prefer the feeling of having a solid foundation of routes with no uncertainty than that continual nagging doubt...
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Also if one of the sources is ukc I know some moderators (including Paul for cheddar) who won't regrade it anyway, even if they had time, in order that the votes remain intact.
Also if one of the sources is ukc I know some moderators (including Paul for cheddar) who won't regrade it anyway, even if they had time, in order that the votes remain intact.
In reply to biscuit:
OK sorted out this weeks targets.
Kendal wall - up, lower down and straight back up on big lead wall on 6b+/c
3 x circuits - work up to 9min on + 8min off X 4. One of these may be replaced with up down ups at Penrith
Core X 5 ( 300 movements )
Fatness down to 16%
Kaly getting close now. It's been a while since i've been to Kendal so i am interested to see how much fitness the circuits have given me. Fingers crossed.
OK sorted out this weeks targets.
Kendal wall - up, lower down and straight back up on big lead wall on 6b+/c
3 x circuits - work up to 9min on + 8min off X 4. One of these may be replaced with up down ups at Penrith
Core X 5 ( 300 movements )
Fatness down to 16%
Kaly getting close now. It's been a while since i've been to Kendal so i am interested to see how much fitness the circuits have given me. Fingers crossed.
In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):
Nice one man. Its an amazing problem (heres photo of me mate doing it: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4458369100_12b0f2dd83_b.jpg)
I try it every time I go to the Roaches. I came really close to doing it once but it started to rain and get really greasy so I dint get another try. Its my main aim next time I go to the roaches well that and manitee (and maybe elergy).
> (In reply to biscuit)
> So after warming up, we walked over to Three Pocket Slab (V3) up at The Roaches (Enclosure Boulders) and after working it for a while, first Si and then myself both climbed it. Woa what a top-out! Certainly had my
> So after warming up, we walked over to Three Pocket Slab (V3) up at The Roaches (Enclosure Boulders) and after working it for a while, first Si and then myself both climbed it. Woa what a top-out! Certainly had my
Nice one man. Its an amazing problem (heres photo of me mate doing it: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4458369100_12b0f2dd83_b.jpg)
I try it every time I go to the Roaches. I came really close to doing it once but it started to rain and get really greasy so I dint get another try. Its my main aim next time I go to the roaches well that and manitee (and maybe elergy).
In reply to IainRUK:
wife had a good one 3:06, 16 seconds off 2nd in a major marathon, still bagged £200 so she paid for our weekend away..
Nice one - well done.
Are you running Snowdonia now? They have finally decided on the new route - sounds like it may be a slightly faster course.
wife had a good one 3:06, 16 seconds off 2nd in a major marathon, still bagged £200 so she paid for our weekend away..
Nice one - well done.
Are you running Snowdonia now? They have finally decided on the new route - sounds like it may be a slightly faster course.
Thanks a million again biscuit for your efforts...
Another really good week for me with loads of goals achieved. The black snot has gone after a week of running in the country! I've even started some higher tempo stuff although pushing pace and mileage is definitely a bad idea with my history. Will take it easy this week as a reward.
Goal for last week - run 5 times with two equal longish runs at the weekend (30 miles for the week) 1 x cross training.
Status: Achieved - ran 5 times with a 9 mile and an 11 mile run at the weekend. Did a spin class too.
M: rest
T: Spin - 45 mins hard. Run - 4 miles. 2 miles before spin at pace and 2 miles home at easy pace.
W: Run, 6 miles at easy pace
T: Intervals, 6 x 800m at 6:15min/mile with 3min15 jogs. 10 minute warm up and warm down. Total distance 7.25 miles
F: rest
S: long run, 9 miles at 8:30min/mile
S: orienteering, 11 miles. 5th. Not really a long run, more fartleks really in thick undergrowth. Very tiring! (Only 5 finishers on my course!)
Goal for next week - Take it a bit easier than last week. No pace work. Run 5 times with two equal longish runs at the weekend (25-30 miles for the week) 1 x cross training
Short term goal (end Oct) - Keep training at consistent 25-30 miles per week. Finish OMM Long Score
MTG: Move training regime into an ultra shape (5 days a week, 1 cross training and two longish runs of reasonably equal length at the weekend) and run 100 miles in October, November and December. Do a race of half marathon or longer post-OMM
LTG (early 2011): Push training on towards 35 miles per week, run a marathon and an ultra
VLTG: Beat 40min 10k, 1:25 half and 3:00 marathon. Do 3 ultras and then do 100miles in 24 hours somewhere!
Another really good week for me with loads of goals achieved. The black snot has gone after a week of running in the country! I've even started some higher tempo stuff although pushing pace and mileage is definitely a bad idea with my history. Will take it easy this week as a reward.
Goal for last week - run 5 times with two equal longish runs at the weekend (30 miles for the week) 1 x cross training.
Status: Achieved - ran 5 times with a 9 mile and an 11 mile run at the weekend. Did a spin class too.
M: rest
T: Spin - 45 mins hard. Run - 4 miles. 2 miles before spin at pace and 2 miles home at easy pace.
W: Run, 6 miles at easy pace
T: Intervals, 6 x 800m at 6:15min/mile with 3min15 jogs. 10 minute warm up and warm down. Total distance 7.25 miles
F: rest
S: long run, 9 miles at 8:30min/mile
S: orienteering, 11 miles. 5th. Not really a long run, more fartleks really in thick undergrowth. Very tiring! (Only 5 finishers on my course!)
Goal for next week - Take it a bit easier than last week. No pace work. Run 5 times with two equal longish runs at the weekend (25-30 miles for the week) 1 x cross training
Short term goal (end Oct) - Keep training at consistent 25-30 miles per week. Finish OMM Long Score
MTG: Move training regime into an ultra shape (5 days a week, 1 cross training and two longish runs of reasonably equal length at the weekend) and run 100 miles in October, November and December. Do a race of half marathon or longer post-OMM
LTG (early 2011): Push training on towards 35 miles per week, run a marathon and an ultra
VLTG: Beat 40min 10k, 1:25 half and 3:00 marathon. Do 3 ultras and then do 100miles in 24 hours somewhere!
Cheers Biscuit,
Thurs : trip to wall, not too bad, but finger sore on jugs, a bit 50/50, weak on crimps.
A wedding next weekend, and then I think it's time for my october/november withdrawal to get the finger better and as i can't stand walls at this time of year, need to renew the enthusiasm and do something else.
So, this year, one measly 7b+, two 7b's and one 7a+! I'm sure I did a lot more than that but not quite sure where the season went. Painfully close 80% of the way to my first 7c before weather, house move and tendons intervened.
2011 - the year of 7c!! and there's a minimum of two on the cards.
I'll post back in the new year I think, hasta la vista!
Thurs : trip to wall, not too bad, but finger sore on jugs, a bit 50/50, weak on crimps.
A wedding next weekend, and then I think it's time for my october/november withdrawal to get the finger better and as i can't stand walls at this time of year, need to renew the enthusiasm and do something else.
So, this year, one measly 7b+, two 7b's and one 7a+! I'm sure I did a lot more than that but not quite sure where the season went. Painfully close 80% of the way to my first 7c before weather, house move and tendons intervened.
2011 - the year of 7c!! and there's a minimum of two on the cards.
I'll post back in the new year I think, hasta la vista!
In reply to Thickhead: Cheers, she was happy, a big confidence boost, I'll submit an entry but its in the lap of the gods if it will still be accepted, will drop around tonight and see the organiser.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks biscuit. I can't help 'just going climbing' either - totally blew it this week! bouldering won - eye off the ball. oh well I had fun.
Trying to keep the endurance going but spending more time bouldering right now than is really necessary to keep strength gains up. It's fun but not what I need to be doing.
A couple of recent threads have made me think I need to up my bouldering strength significantly before next spring. Having a think about how to measure this - basically I would rather be doing short hard routes than outdoor boulder problems - but I need to be doing V6 fairly routinely and getting the odd V7 - any suggestions for short hard bouldery routes in Portland/Swanage around this level welcomed.
STG
Onsight/Flash 7a+
Finish 7c redpoint pyramid by Turkey (2x7a+) (ticked: 3x7a+, 2x7b, 1x7b+)
Redpoint 7c in Turkey
Hall of Mirrors autumn/winter 2010/11
Indoor - Flash 7a and RP 7b+
Indoor Bouldering - 'Tick over' at V5.
Endurance laps - 4x laps on 6c and 6c+, 6x laps on 6b+ and 6c
4x4 - v3,v3,v3,v3 and v4,v3,v2,v3 at Arch
MTG
Try a 7a every onsight day
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (3x6c+, 2x7a, 2x7a+)
60 pitches led at 6b + to 7a in 2010 (current total: 27)
Maintain 2010 project tick rate at 33% Currently: 39% (+3%)
7c+ Pyramid
BF to 10.0%. Currently: 11.6% (was 11.6%)
Boulder V7 and regularly (once per week) boulder V6 - Spring 2011
LTG
F8a in 2011
Onsight 7b+
Supercool
Goals for last week:
2x roped laps sessions. 4 hours doing laps and 2 hours working routes for lapping purposes. Aim for 4x laps at 6c. did the hours but the quality of the session needs to improve drastically
Circuits session - plus 1.5 hrs on Wave doing hard bouldering. Put together high intensity circuit - 15 to 20 moves OR 4x4 of easy problems. tick
Portland/weekend - go where the weather is. Any of: Finish Last Rose of Summer, o/s attempt on Pining for Glossop or other 7a, attempt 7a+ quick RP, work Hall of Mirrors. weather, as it turns out, was nowhere
Week 185
M:
T: Leading - laps session. 5 pitches incl 3x laps on the 6c on 28 (first lap not clean). Finished session early - Bouldered on Mezz. got V3 and V4 2nd go and spent a few goes on the green V5 and blue (V5?) on the steepest bit.
W: Bouldering. Ticked blue V5? and green V5 on mezz. Working on yellow V6. Wave - working on mirrors problem and the long crimpy V5?.
T: Leading - laps. 2.5x 6c on 28, 4x Tufas 6b? and 2.5x 6b+ on 17.5. Frenchies (2,1,1) and push ups.
F:
S: Bouldering. Ticked V3 on slopers, and spent a few hours on the wave wall. Made progress on long crimpy problem (getting to final move from ground) and the Mirrors problem (linked from start to big throw up). Intervals on wave circuit - 20 moves. 5x goes with 1.30 rest from 17 moves dropping to 10 moves on last lap.
S: Routing plans shelved due to tube strike. Bouldering at the Arch instead. Monster session ticking my way through Arch V5's - managed to get 5 done and 2x V4 flashes before running out of juice.
Goals for next week:
2x leading sessions - 4 hours doing laps on 6c and 6b+. Try 2m timed rests between laps. 2 hours on new routes.
Portland/weekend - go where the weather is. Any of: Finish Last Rose of Summer, o/s attempt on Pining for Glossop or other 7a, attempt 7a+ quick RP, work Hall of Mirrors.
Thanks biscuit. I can't help 'just going climbing' either - totally blew it this week! bouldering won - eye off the ball. oh well I had fun.
Trying to keep the endurance going but spending more time bouldering right now than is really necessary to keep strength gains up. It's fun but not what I need to be doing.
A couple of recent threads have made me think I need to up my bouldering strength significantly before next spring. Having a think about how to measure this - basically I would rather be doing short hard routes than outdoor boulder problems - but I need to be doing V6 fairly routinely and getting the odd V7 - any suggestions for short hard bouldery routes in Portland/Swanage around this level welcomed.
STG
Onsight/Flash 7a+
Finish 7c redpoint pyramid by Turkey (2x7a+) (ticked: 3x7a+, 2x7b, 1x7b+)
Redpoint 7c in Turkey
Hall of Mirrors autumn/winter 2010/11
Indoor - Flash 7a and RP 7b+
Indoor Bouldering - 'Tick over' at V5.
Endurance laps - 4x laps on 6c and 6c+, 6x laps on 6b+ and 6c
4x4 - v3,v3,v3,v3 and v4,v3,v2,v3 at Arch
MTG
Try a 7a every onsight day
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (3x6c+, 2x7a, 2x7a+)
60 pitches led at 6b + to 7a in 2010 (current total: 27)
Maintain 2010 project tick rate at 33% Currently: 39% (+3%)
7c+ Pyramid
BF to 10.0%. Currently: 11.6% (was 11.6%)
Boulder V7 and regularly (once per week) boulder V6 - Spring 2011
LTG
F8a in 2011
Onsight 7b+
Supercool
Goals for last week:
2x roped laps sessions. 4 hours doing laps and 2 hours working routes for lapping purposes. Aim for 4x laps at 6c. did the hours but the quality of the session needs to improve drastically
Circuits session - plus 1.5 hrs on Wave doing hard bouldering. Put together high intensity circuit - 15 to 20 moves OR 4x4 of easy problems. tick
Portland/weekend - go where the weather is. Any of: Finish Last Rose of Summer, o/s attempt on Pining for Glossop or other 7a, attempt 7a+ quick RP, work Hall of Mirrors. weather, as it turns out, was nowhere
Week 185
M:
T: Leading - laps session. 5 pitches incl 3x laps on the 6c on 28 (first lap not clean). Finished session early - Bouldered on Mezz. got V3 and V4 2nd go and spent a few goes on the green V5 and blue (V5?) on the steepest bit.
W: Bouldering. Ticked blue V5? and green V5 on mezz. Working on yellow V6. Wave - working on mirrors problem and the long crimpy V5?.
T: Leading - laps. 2.5x 6c on 28, 4x Tufas 6b? and 2.5x 6b+ on 17.5. Frenchies (2,1,1) and push ups.
F:
S: Bouldering. Ticked V3 on slopers, and spent a few hours on the wave wall. Made progress on long crimpy problem (getting to final move from ground) and the Mirrors problem (linked from start to big throw up). Intervals on wave circuit - 20 moves. 5x goes with 1.30 rest from 17 moves dropping to 10 moves on last lap.
S: Routing plans shelved due to tube strike. Bouldering at the Arch instead. Monster session ticking my way through Arch V5's - managed to get 5 done and 2x V4 flashes before running out of juice.
Goals for next week:
2x leading sessions - 4 hours doing laps on 6c and 6b+. Try 2m timed rests between laps. 2 hours on new routes.
Portland/weekend - go where the weather is. Any of: Finish Last Rose of Summer, o/s attempt on Pining for Glossop or other 7a, attempt 7a+ quick RP, work Hall of Mirrors.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Hey Nick, looks like they reset the Wave yesterday. Some holds still wet last night! If you want to get together and work out some new probs I'd be up for that!
Hey Nick, looks like they reset the Wave yesterday. Some holds still wet last night! If you want to get together and work out some new probs I'd be up for that!
In reply to catt:
argh dammit!
argh dammit!
In reply to eivindf:
Hi eivindf,
Welcome to fitclub. I live in Finland but have been across to Norway several times climbing. I had a quick browse of your logbook it looks like we've both done a few of the same routes, Vestpillaren, Lundklubben and Rage of Honor at Sandvikka for example. I'm quite jealous of you climbing at Eggum, it looks amazing but when I was in Lofoten two years ago, I was nowhere near good enough.
Good luck towards the 8a. It looks like your making great progress for someone who has only been climbing 2 years.
Tony
Hi eivindf,
Welcome to fitclub. I live in Finland but have been across to Norway several times climbing. I had a quick browse of your logbook it looks like we've both done a few of the same routes, Vestpillaren, Lundklubben and Rage of Honor at Sandvikka for example. I'm quite jealous of you climbing at Eggum, it looks amazing but when I was in Lofoten two years ago, I was nowhere near good enough.
Good luck towards the 8a. It looks like your making great progress for someone who has only been climbing 2 years.
Tony
In reply to biscuit:
STG: 7a+ indoors.
MTG: Few more 7a’s outside. Get back on trad and lead E1. Get back to 22min 5km indoor run. 7a+ in Kalymnos in November.
LTG: 7b outside. 7a onsight outside. E1 onsight.
M – Rest.
T – Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
W – Weights/5km indoor run.
T – Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
F - Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
S – Rest.
S – Indoor routes (checking out the new wall at MK, RPing a 7a+).
Bit of a slack week, been trying to take it easy on the advice of a friend that’s a Sports Therapist. Apparently I would benefit from resting my back as my Trapezius is inflamed and I should work my stabilisation muscles for better muscle balance. So that’s what I’ll be concentrating on along with some running this week. I need to work out a new training routine.
STG: 7a+ indoors.
MTG: Few more 7a’s outside. Get back on trad and lead E1. Get back to 22min 5km indoor run. 7a+ in Kalymnos in November.
LTG: 7b outside. 7a onsight outside. E1 onsight.
M – Rest.
T – Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
W – Weights/5km indoor run.
T – Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
F - Indoor routes (nothing special just having fun).
S – Rest.
S – Indoor routes (checking out the new wall at MK, RPing a 7a+).
Bit of a slack week, been trying to take it easy on the advice of a friend that’s a Sports Therapist. Apparently I would benefit from resting my back as my Trapezius is inflamed and I should work my stabilisation muscles for better muscle balance. So that’s what I’ll be concentrating on along with some running this week. I need to work out a new training routine.
In reply to biscuit:
You're most certainly right, there are more important things than climbing. My son was born on Wednesday morning (3.2kg, 48cm). I haven't had time to even think of climbing. I plan to enjoy my paternity leave and spend time with my family. I might not post for the next week or two and just enjoy being at home (annual rest?).
You're most certainly right, there are more important things than climbing. My son was born on Wednesday morning (3.2kg, 48cm). I haven't had time to even think of climbing. I plan to enjoy my paternity leave and spend time with my family. I might not post for the next week or two and just enjoy being at home (annual rest?).
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Suggestions (goes without saying they are all guesswork with more or less levels of "informed"):
Thoughts:
See how hard I'm working
AJM
> A couple of recent threads have made me think I need to up my bouldering strength significantly before next spring. Having a think about how to measure this - basically I would rather be doing short hard routes than outdoor boulder problems - but I need to be doing V6 fairly routinely and getting the odd V7 - any suggestions for short hard bouldery routes in Portland/Swanage around this level welcomed.
Suggestions (goes without saying they are all guesswork with more or less levels of "informed"):
- There's the obvious ones on the New Cuttings - Stomping with Bez and Sub Youth get V7 and V6 respectively as boulder problem grades but also have short wombles to the anchors at the top should you wish. Theres also Lats Babes and Bolts at V8 as well. Don't know whether by "short, hard route" you mean "boulder problem with 2 bolts" mind you - personally I'm not sure I could be arsed but different things suit different people.
- Leer of Beethoven is a 9m 7c just to the right of those ones - probably a boulder problem in the air rather than off the ground (the start looks easier and I've seen some people on it in the past and the top looks suitably sick as to probably be that sort of grade).
- If you rckon that low-in the grade 7c (Hall of Mirrors, going by the Portland guide) is V5 then Breathing Method at low 8a right next door might offer something since its a similar sort of structure (easy start, hard blank bit), but might be too hard, who knows
- I seem to remember Mick Ward saying some of the suff at Battleship is very cruxy. Might be worth putting a seperate thread up on this as we've no true locals any more on fit club but theres a few who still post on UKC more widely
- Some of the stuff at Winspit (which has lots of excellent routes more generally btw) has powerful boulder problem starts, can't recall the grades though. Dorset Rockfax is your friend.
- Otherwise, you might just have to start a mega project (I note that the 8a goal is only 14 months away now) on a "proper" route (i.e. something with harder climbing round a boulder problem, rather than the boulder problem with some far easier ground either side of it). From what Richard Hall was saying last week about Fornicator Simulator (Fr6b - V7 - Fr7b/+) and my friend has said about Right Hand Man (Fr7b - V6 - Fr7a/b), both at soft 8a, you probably need something thats 7c+ or above?
Thoughts:
- A very bouldery route will probably be immensely frustrating to redpoint in that if its really "harder moves than ever before" (which is probably what you want) rather than "doing another pretty hard move after some other pretty hard moves" (which is going to be more p-e than pure strength) you could end up falling off the same move for several days/weekends on the trot. I read Stu Littlefair's blog ad he had an entry about trying Revelations which sounded much like that. A more sustained route still featuring V6 moves could get you to see more incremental progress, but would still be a monstrously long seige.
- Hazel will have to have the patience of a saint!
- It instinctively feels like it might be less time efficient than bouldering (or using bouldering indoors for strength and working routes outdoors for p-e, stamina and technique) for strength gains per unit time, just because of the belay faff. On the other hand, its probably more specific than hitting the grit I suppose.
- On the other hand, if youre psyched for it it might work better, and could do wonders for your sport head with the amount of airtime off really hard moves you culd clock up
See how hard I'm working
AJM
In reply to catt:
God Dammit! I wish we would get some warning when they are about to do that. Two projects that I am close to! aargh.
Yes for sure let's get on it and set some new ones?
God Dammit! I wish we would get some warning when they are about to do that. Two projects that I am close to! aargh.
Yes for sure let's get on it and set some new ones?
In reply to TonyB: Congrats dude.
In reply to biscuit:
Managed to some training
Friday climbing wall for 1 hour bouldering easy
Sunday climbing wall for 1.5 hours up to V5
Now holidays and people visiting is over for a few more weeks I'll be able to some more climbing again.
Managed to some training
Friday climbing wall for 1 hour bouldering easy
Sunday climbing wall for 1.5 hours up to V5
Now holidays and people visiting is over for a few more weeks I'll be able to some more climbing again.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Some good thoughts there.
Yes, it was Richard Hall's post last week which made me think that I need to up my game a bit to stand a chance on an 8a or even the cruxier end of 7b+/7c, which makes me un-keen to jump directly into a mega-project. Breathing Method is also meant to be something like V7 so while something like that is the ultimate goal, I definitely feel like first I need to be able to a) pull that hard, and b) do it sufficiently reliably that a redpoint becomes a feasible proposition in a reasonable amount of time and not just immensely frustrating as you describe...
I think overall strategy will be trying to build strength gains from bouldering indoors on the wave (45 deg board) and supplementary strength work, but I feel I need route goals to a) actually apply the strength on rock, and b) measure what I'm doing as the grades at the castle yo-yo up and down so badly it's very difficult to tell whether or not you're actually getting stronger.
In that sense I suppose I'm looking for a progression of bouldery routes in the V5 - V7 ball park, generally aiming to get the moves on each in a session or two - rather than it being threshold bouldering and trying to make strength gains on them, which I agree is probably not a great use of time. (though in practical terms I'm sure it will be a bit of a grey area...)
The meaner stuff on the new cuttings seems a reasonable idea, and I'll have a flick through the shorter stuff at Swanage. Stuff like Stomping with Bez and Subyouth I had in my head as V8 and V7 (which they are in the Rockfax) so had discounted them as being a bit hard, but perhaps I will have a bit of a go at Subyouth - that sort of format is what I had in mind. (doing boulder problems with a couple of bolts in is logisically easier than moving boulder mats around by public transport
Leer of Beethoven - I've never actually worked out where it goes, between the CC/Rockfax they describe at least 3 variations, graded anywhere from 7a+ to 7c but I suppose it would become clear if I got on it. Looking through the guide, Sign of the Vulcan is an obvious bouldery 7b+ I'm keen to try this winter.
Hmm plenty of time to mull it over anyway.
Cheers Andy. Some good thoughts there.
Yes, it was Richard Hall's post last week which made me think that I need to up my game a bit to stand a chance on an 8a or even the cruxier end of 7b+/7c, which makes me un-keen to jump directly into a mega-project. Breathing Method is also meant to be something like V7 so while something like that is the ultimate goal, I definitely feel like first I need to be able to a) pull that hard, and b) do it sufficiently reliably that a redpoint becomes a feasible proposition in a reasonable amount of time and not just immensely frustrating as you describe...
I think overall strategy will be trying to build strength gains from bouldering indoors on the wave (45 deg board) and supplementary strength work, but I feel I need route goals to a) actually apply the strength on rock, and b) measure what I'm doing as the grades at the castle yo-yo up and down so badly it's very difficult to tell whether or not you're actually getting stronger.
In that sense I suppose I'm looking for a progression of bouldery routes in the V5 - V7 ball park, generally aiming to get the moves on each in a session or two - rather than it being threshold bouldering and trying to make strength gains on them, which I agree is probably not a great use of time. (though in practical terms I'm sure it will be a bit of a grey area...)
The meaner stuff on the new cuttings seems a reasonable idea, and I'll have a flick through the shorter stuff at Swanage. Stuff like Stomping with Bez and Subyouth I had in my head as V8 and V7 (which they are in the Rockfax) so had discounted them as being a bit hard, but perhaps I will have a bit of a go at Subyouth - that sort of format is what I had in mind. (doing boulder problems with a couple of bolts in is logisically easier than moving boulder mats around by public transport
Leer of Beethoven - I've never actually worked out where it goes, between the CC/Rockfax they describe at least 3 variations, graded anywhere from 7a+ to 7c but I suppose it would become clear if I got on it. Looking through the guide, Sign of the Vulcan is an obvious bouldery 7b+ I'm keen to try this winter.
Hmm plenty of time to mull it over anyway.
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers Biscuit. Finding the time to go climbing isn't a problem, so I feel I should make the most of the opportunity.
I sport climb and boulder. I find it more beneficial to boulder indoors, as I don't have to rely on anyone or hang around belaying.
M: 2.5 hours indoor bouldering around V4/V5
T: 2 hours indoor bouldering - mentally drained, nothing above V4
W: Too tired, need sleep
T: 2 hours indoor bouldering - poor session, too concerned with the following day
F: Holiday
S: Holiday
S: Holiday
STG: Make more effort for the following week. Sleep more. Go running on rest days.
Cheers Biscuit. Finding the time to go climbing isn't a problem, so I feel I should make the most of the opportunity.
I sport climb and boulder. I find it more beneficial to boulder indoors, as I don't have to rely on anyone or hang around belaying.
M: 2.5 hours indoor bouldering around V4/V5
T: 2 hours indoor bouldering - mentally drained, nothing above V4
W: Too tired, need sleep
T: 2 hours indoor bouldering - poor session, too concerned with the following day
F: Holiday
S: Holiday
S: Holiday
STG: Make more effort for the following week. Sleep more. Go running on rest days.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
I'd forgotten you're always on the trains...
Sounds like a pretty sensible plan. I'm probably going to be using the outdoors to build a baseline level this winter, so I'll hopefully be doing some bouldery stuff mixed in there somewhere too. Goal rethink is coming up for next week once exams are done and I've been back to Gloucester wall with an eye for winter training ideas. I seem to recall they hVe a features 7b which could be a good p-e project and a good strength measure since it won't change.
By the way, my soon-to-be-swanage-based friend has eyes on hall of mirrors this winter, so I may end up getting sucked into that too. And I forget when youre in turkey but I'll be in London 13th and 26th of November weekends if you are around and fancy an arch session.
I'd forgotten you're always on the trains...
Sounds like a pretty sensible plan. I'm probably going to be using the outdoors to build a baseline level this winter, so I'll hopefully be doing some bouldery stuff mixed in there somewhere too. Goal rethink is coming up for next week once exams are done and I've been back to Gloucester wall with an eye for winter training ideas. I seem to recall they hVe a features 7b which could be a good p-e project and a good strength measure since it won't change.
By the way, my soon-to-be-swanage-based friend has eyes on hall of mirrors this winter, so I may end up getting sucked into that too. And I forget when youre in turkey but I'll be in London 13th and 26th of November weekends if you are around and fancy an arch session.
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit. What got me through finishing the V6? Stubborness I think. You have to fight to get things done sometimes and I really didn't want to fall off the top bit for a third time!
STG: V6 in Font.
MTG: F7b / weight to 68k / Get some more E2s done.
almost no cycle commuting and no run after getting food poisoning on Monday/Tuesday and chucking my guts up.
1 x boulder session at the castle - flashed a couple of V4s which is good especially after being ill!
Weight was a bit lower this wk due to illness(!) 70.5k this wk.
Fingerboard - NA.
Need to concentrate on training and ensure I get 2 sessions down the wall
, 1 fingerboard session in AND a run...
Cheers biscuit. What got me through finishing the V6? Stubborness I think. You have to fight to get things done sometimes and I really didn't want to fall off the top bit for a third time!
STG: V6 in Font.
MTG: F7b / weight to 68k / Get some more E2s done.
almost no cycle commuting and no run after getting food poisoning on Monday/Tuesday and chucking my guts up.
1 x boulder session at the castle - flashed a couple of V4s which is good especially after being ill!
Weight was a bit lower this wk due to illness(!) 70.5k this wk.
Fingerboard - NA.
Need to concentrate on training and ensure I get 2 sessions down the wall
, 1 fingerboard session in AND a run...
In reply to catt:
I'm game and have a pass for this Thursday
> (In reply to plexiglass_nick)
>
> Hey Nick, looks like they reset the Wave yesterday. Some holds still wet last night! If you want to get together and work out some new probs I'd be up for that!
>
> Hey Nick, looks like they reset the Wave yesterday. Some holds still wet last night! If you want to get together and work out some new probs I'd be up for that!
I'm game and have a pass for this Thursday
In reply to viking:
PLEASE NOT BLOODY Jet Set again?! Let's get on Egoiste at Apremont and rude boy etc at 95.2..
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> STG: V6 indoors or outdoors (End of October 2010)
> MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
> LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
>
> Monday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
> Tuesday: rest
> Wednesday: rest
> Thursday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
> Friday: rest
> Saturday: visit family in Yorkshire, sadly no climbing
> Sunday: visit family
>
> Pootling along nicely at V5, just need to find some V6's that are not hideous. I got to the end jug on Mark's Roof Left Hand last week but couldn't hold the swing, so am wanting to get back on it. got 3 weeks before i go to Font and i really want a v6 in the forest!
>
> STG: V6 indoors or outdoors (End of October 2010)
> MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
> LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
>
> Monday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
> Tuesday: rest
> Wednesday: rest
> Thursday: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
> Friday: rest
> Saturday: visit family in Yorkshire, sadly no climbing
> Sunday: visit family
>
> Pootling along nicely at V5, just need to find some V6's that are not hideous. I got to the end jug on Mark's Roof Left Hand last week but couldn't hold the swing, so am wanting to get back on it. got 3 weeks before i go to Font and i really want a v6 in the forest!
PLEASE NOT BLOODY Jet Set again?! Let's get on Egoiste at Apremont and rude boy etc at 95.2..
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit
M - Nil
Tu - Climbing. Worked my fingers hard on some crimpy routes.
W - Nil
Th - Climbing. Good session, climbed a lot of walls at a grade or so below my max. level for endurance.
F - Nil
Sat/Sun - Unwell, some sort of mild flu.
Overall it was a "keeping it going" sort of week.
This week - depends when I get over this flippin" flu thing!
Thanks Biscuit
M - Nil
Tu - Climbing. Worked my fingers hard on some crimpy routes.
W - Nil
Th - Climbing. Good session, climbed a lot of walls at a grade or so below my max. level for endurance.
F - Nil
Sat/Sun - Unwell, some sort of mild flu.
Overall it was a "keeping it going" sort of week.
This week - depends when I get over this flippin" flu thing!
In reply to biscuit:
Hello,
I'd like to get involved in the fit club if that's ok? I was away last week so will begin next week with what I did this week (if that makes sense).
I purchased a beastmaker the day before I tore two finger pulleys at the cromlech boulders so it has been gathering dust until I was convinced my finger has healed. I think it's ok now so I'd like to get some motivation to use it in anger through the fit club.
Spent the summer focusing on trad for the first time ever so have lost fitness for indoor climbing and a bit of bouldering strength. Now the evening daylight has gone I'm back indoors hoping to get fit/stronger.
STG(By April 2011): Lead 7b indoors regularly
MTG(By September 2011): Get to Malham regularly and be that annoying guy project-ing the warm ups - Free and even easier, seventh ardvark, Something stupid and Wasted Youth are on the tick-list.
LTG: Do all of the above without picking up injuries.
Thanks!
Hello,
I'd like to get involved in the fit club if that's ok? I was away last week so will begin next week with what I did this week (if that makes sense).
I purchased a beastmaker the day before I tore two finger pulleys at the cromlech boulders so it has been gathering dust until I was convinced my finger has healed. I think it's ok now so I'd like to get some motivation to use it in anger through the fit club.
Spent the summer focusing on trad for the first time ever so have lost fitness for indoor climbing and a bit of bouldering strength. Now the evening daylight has gone I'm back indoors hoping to get fit/stronger.
STG(By April 2011): Lead 7b indoors regularly
MTG(By September 2011): Get to Malham regularly and be that annoying guy project-ing the warm ups - Free and even easier, seventh ardvark, Something stupid and Wasted Youth are on the tick-list.
LTG: Do all of the above without picking up injuries.
Thanks!
In reply to biscuit: cheers biscuit. Struggling this week with work/life/health. My goals at the mo are to get this in hand. THURS - leeds wall -TR some 4/5/5+ and my first 6a since my op which i did clean first go. SAT - Bouldering at huds wall 1hr. Thoughts for this week. Im concentrating on good footwork &technique to avoid jarring my scar which is going well but pulling on overhangs still results in the loss of my voice for a day or 2. The things we sacrifice for climbing! Hoping my hospital app next week will tweak my thyroxine meds and improve my tiredness. Im spending 2/3 days a week at my mums due to my dads illness, this probably wont change for the near future so i have to work round this. Thinking of rock rings set up there but my fingers are seriously tweaked at the mo (probably due to big increase in weight, thanks wonky thyroid) so im reluctant to do anything to make that worse. Need to look at cv work to control weight. Feel like im way back at the start again fitness wise, lots of work to do!
In reply to biscuit:
Eagle river - welcome.
AJM & P'Nick - Grade wise for the 2 publications thing, I think I shall go for what it says in my book at the time of climbing. It said 7a, so 7a it is.
The 7b was "Still waters run deep" - I am hopeful on a quick clean ascent for that bad boy, there are others on that section of wall which appeal too. Any recommendations?
Plex nick - on your bouldering thing. I have come to the same conclusion, bouldering is needed as I rope climb too much for power/strength building at the moment. Although stamina is good. Is a 45 degree board appropriate for Breathing method?
Have you considered some of the short and V bouldery stuff at rubicon? You can boulder the starts and it'd compliment a steeper training regime.
Good luck at the New cuttings, i'd like to hear your findings, having tried some of the routes you mention....
On a seperate note, strength building arms on a fingerboard. Is a slow pull up during the 7 sec hang with 3 sec rest between best or should I go for frenchies?
Cheers for the replies and input, Kev
Eagle river - welcome.
AJM & P'Nick - Grade wise for the 2 publications thing, I think I shall go for what it says in my book at the time of climbing. It said 7a, so 7a it is.
The 7b was "Still waters run deep" - I am hopeful on a quick clean ascent for that bad boy, there are others on that section of wall which appeal too. Any recommendations?
Plex nick - on your bouldering thing. I have come to the same conclusion, bouldering is needed as I rope climb too much for power/strength building at the moment. Although stamina is good. Is a 45 degree board appropriate for Breathing method?
Have you considered some of the short and V bouldery stuff at rubicon? You can boulder the starts and it'd compliment a steeper training regime.
Good luck at the New cuttings, i'd like to hear your findings, having tried some of the routes you mention....
On a seperate note, strength building arms on a fingerboard. Is a slow pull up during the 7 sec hang with 3 sec rest between best or should I go for frenchies?
Cheers for the replies and input, Kev
In reply to Kevster:
Hi mate
for strength you hypertrophy which is what you initially need as you have no meat to recruit you need to go to failure at about 3 sets of 12 reps so add or subtract weight to get this after you get the foundations let's say 4 to 6 weeks of 3 sessions a week you should see some guns and back development. Move to recruitment strength where you lower the reps but increase the weight I do this through a pullup pyramid at max pulls adding weight and then subtracting coming back down the pyramid example: 5 reps at 5kg, 4 reps at 10 kg, 3 reps at 15 kg, 2 reps at 20 kg, 1 rep at 25 kg and then back down the pyramid, hope that makes sense, I srat at 25 and go up to 45 now find it works well but is hard rest 2 mins between each set! Try introducing one arm lock and slow lowers and once these feel easy do a one arm pyramid where you start with 0 kg x 1 rep/attempt and add 0.25 kg and a rep each tome up to 5 kg and then back up the pyramid to finish on a one armer again. I have found great result from these and they are easy to measure progress. If you don't have a pulley system use pinky for assistance on first two and then index for the next and middle for the 5 reps. I find these are great for warming up before max hangs or repeaters. Do this for about three to 4 weeks and then move onto power which can be done bouldering and campussing this is where you develop the muscles to explode so concentrate on this type of movement. If you stick to this you will see good gains I promise oh and drink less
beer and sleep lots your body will
need the rest!
Hi mate
for strength you hypertrophy which is what you initially need as you have no meat to recruit you need to go to failure at about 3 sets of 12 reps so add or subtract weight to get this after you get the foundations let's say 4 to 6 weeks of 3 sessions a week you should see some guns and back development. Move to recruitment strength where you lower the reps but increase the weight I do this through a pullup pyramid at max pulls adding weight and then subtracting coming back down the pyramid example: 5 reps at 5kg, 4 reps at 10 kg, 3 reps at 15 kg, 2 reps at 20 kg, 1 rep at 25 kg and then back down the pyramid, hope that makes sense, I srat at 25 and go up to 45 now find it works well but is hard rest 2 mins between each set! Try introducing one arm lock and slow lowers and once these feel easy do a one arm pyramid where you start with 0 kg x 1 rep/attempt and add 0.25 kg and a rep each tome up to 5 kg and then back up the pyramid to finish on a one armer again. I have found great result from these and they are easy to measure progress. If you don't have a pulley system use pinky for assistance on first two and then index for the next and middle for the 5 reps. I find these are great for warming up before max hangs or repeaters. Do this for about three to 4 weeks and then move onto power which can be done bouldering and campussing this is where you develop the muscles to explode so concentrate on this type of movement. If you stick to this you will see good gains I promise oh and drink less
beer and sleep lots your body will
need the rest!
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks I was pleased with it.
M: Had another go at Fornicator but was destroyed from previous attempt on day before. Still did all the moves quickly but no way I was going to link it today.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Party
S: Party
S: Hangover
Not a very productive week! Probably time to start going to the wall as I can no longer climb after work.
Goals: Same as before.
Thanks I was pleased with it.
M: Had another go at Fornicator but was destroyed from previous attempt on day before. Still did all the moves quickly but no way I was going to link it today.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Party
S: Party
S: Hangover
Not a very productive week! Probably time to start going to the wall as I can no longer climb after work.
Goals: Same as before.
In reply to Kevster:
The latest guide which is the one that gives it 7a is based on a concensus from a lot more ascents, since the first guide was the one produced at the start of the big summer access improvement.
Still waters is my first and only 7b to date. Shangri-la I'm quite keen to try. I do like the climbing on that wall.
The latest guide which is the one that gives it 7a is based on a concensus from a lot more ascents, since the first guide was the one produced at the start of the big summer access improvement.
Still waters is my first and only 7b to date. Shangri-la I'm quite keen to try. I do like the climbing on that wall.
In reply to Goonie:
I should have guessed G. Only trouble is the beer tastes sooo good!
Gotta try, will give it a bash. Good luck in font..... What's the plans for the weeeknd after? I'm looking to go a day bolt clipping.
AJM will look at shangri la next time. I have done "All hands to the pump" which is bouldery but not overly difficult if you're average height and OK flexibility wise. have a pop at it maybe?
I should have guessed G. Only trouble is the beer tastes sooo good!
Gotta try, will give it a bash. Good luck in font..... What's the plans for the weeeknd after? I'm looking to go a day bolt clipping.
AJM will look at shangri la next time. I have done "All hands to the pump" which is bouldery but not overly difficult if you're average height and OK flexibility wise. have a pop at it maybe?
In reply to Kevster:
Will check it out sometime. So many things to do there though - I have never gotten on with arch rock so well, but I should get into it and tackle the weaknesses I suppose...
First wall session in a while tonight - no skin left, no stamina and easily worn down. The only way is up!
Will check it out sometime. So many things to do there though - I have never gotten on with arch rock so well, but I should get into it and tackle the weaknesses I suppose...
First wall session in a while tonight - no skin left, no stamina and easily worn down. The only way is up!
In reply to biscuit:
Audit finished today so quick trip to Wall - very nice night'
Hockey Saturday
Next week back to the gym....
Didn't get the job I went for in Marazion - bugger
Audit finished today so quick trip to Wall - very nice night'
Hockey Saturday
Next week back to the gym....
Didn't get the job I went for in Marazion - bugger
In reply to biscuit:
hey cheers biscuit! I really wasn't expecting to climb anything after destroying myself at trowbarrow so iit was a nice surprise!
M-indoors
T-indoors
W-rest
T-llandudno pen trwyn
F-rest/work
S-work
S-work
hey cheers biscuit! I really wasn't expecting to climb anything after destroying myself at trowbarrow so iit was a nice surprise!
M-indoors
T-indoors
W-rest
T-llandudno pen trwyn
F-rest/work
S-work
S-work
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
hey Nick....good to see you pulling hard. Had a fairly productive trip to Kalymnos which was more of a mileage trip than anything, whereas prior ones have been about hard projects. Didn't get the 7b's i was trying very quickly so never really tried anything harder. One of the things i noticed was that i seemed to struggle retro-flashing things i had previously comfortably ticked eg Dike and Kastor.....which got me thinking i had better overall climbing fitness 2-3 yrs ago, one side of which is being able to "climb through the pump". One thing i haven't done for a while is weighted laps....only talking about 5 pounds (2 argos ankle weights in a bumbag) on castle 6b+ 2-3 times in a row but i think it helped somewhat. Anyway something to consider?
hey Nick....good to see you pulling hard. Had a fairly productive trip to Kalymnos which was more of a mileage trip than anything, whereas prior ones have been about hard projects. Didn't get the 7b's i was trying very quickly so never really tried anything harder. One of the things i noticed was that i seemed to struggle retro-flashing things i had previously comfortably ticked eg Dike and Kastor.....which got me thinking i had better overall climbing fitness 2-3 yrs ago, one side of which is being able to "climb through the pump". One thing i haven't done for a while is weighted laps....only talking about 5 pounds (2 argos ankle weights in a bumbag) on castle 6b+ 2-3 times in a row but i think it helped somewhat. Anyway something to consider?
In reply to Steve John B:
Thanks for that both of you. I'm back now and yes Portland a lovely place. Too much food and too much beer (they have utterly amazing pubs and bars, puts 99% of UK pubs to shame!) has rather destroyed the progress tho. Put on about 5lbs. Erk! It happened last time I went to America, put on 7lbs, that was last year, went back up to 13st 10lbs, so just need to dig in and hit the running and dieting again.
I started upping my running and dieting after one christmas when I'd hit 15st 12lbs (Christmas 2008) starting climbing last year made a massive difference as well, as it was something to push me to loose weight. I'd been mtbing and running for about 2 years prior to that (stopped mtbing when at uni, then didn't restart for a few years). I'd probably been hovering around 15st for a couple of years and really hating it. I've never been a massively thin or fit person, but even I knew that over 15st at 5ft 10ins wasn't great. I'm generally eating much better now than I used to, very few takeaways, brown bread for white bread, fruit instead of chocolate, a lot less crisps etc etc. It's been quite hard all in and I've shown how easy it could be to put it back on (eg 7lbs in one fortnights holiday in USA). I really feel sorry for people who have large amounts of weight to loose, it's bloody hard to do. Hopefully I'll keep it up.
Thanks for that both of you. I'm back now and yes Portland a lovely place. Too much food and too much beer (they have utterly amazing pubs and bars, puts 99% of UK pubs to shame!) has rather destroyed the progress tho. Put on about 5lbs. Erk! It happened last time I went to America, put on 7lbs, that was last year, went back up to 13st 10lbs, so just need to dig in and hit the running and dieting again.
I started upping my running and dieting after one christmas when I'd hit 15st 12lbs (Christmas 2008) starting climbing last year made a massive difference as well, as it was something to push me to loose weight. I'd been mtbing and running for about 2 years prior to that (stopped mtbing when at uni, then didn't restart for a few years). I'd probably been hovering around 15st for a couple of years and really hating it. I've never been a massively thin or fit person, but even I knew that over 15st at 5ft 10ins wasn't great. I'm generally eating much better now than I used to, very few takeaways, brown bread for white bread, fruit instead of chocolate, a lot less crisps etc etc. It's been quite hard all in and I've shown how easy it could be to put it back on (eg 7lbs in one fortnights holiday in USA). I really feel sorry for people who have large amounts of weight to loose, it's bloody hard to do. Hopefully I'll keep it up.
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