UKC

No rest for the wicked they say...

Ramon Julian Puigblanque, the current World Cup and European champion, has made the third ascent, after Chris Sharma and Iker Pou, of the pocket nightmare, or dream, Demencia Senil, 9a+, in the "laboratory" of Margalef, in Cataluña.

This is his fifth 9a+.


Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58307

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

sic is there any video footage?

and how come he beat Adam Ondra and yet he Doesn't seem to onsight many if any f8c routes

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Nice job Ramonet! My money is on him to make the 3rd ascent of Golpe de Estado.

In reply to Quarryboy: Onsighting in competitions is pretty different to onsighting out on the crag, the atmosphere and pressure must be ridiculous when your in front of a crowd. He's onsighted 4 8c's compared to ondras 15, according to 8a anyway.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: erm.....what's he ever done on grit?









[runs for cover]

In reply to Quarryboy:
>

ondra knackered his fingers up on demencia senil so dont hold your breath for an ondra ascent

In reply to beastofackworth:
I got three tendon injuries just watching the video of Iker Pou, that route looks horrible!

In reply to beastofackworth:

I know about that but statistically Ondra should be wiping the floor with him.

In reply to Quarryboy:

True enough, but I watched them both in a World Cup recently: maybe Julian just managed to read the route better, but he looked stronger than Ondra

In reply to Carless:

A lot probably depends on when they plan to be at their peak. Maybe Ramon trains specifically to peak for competitions and Ondra is more focused on doing well outdoors?

Also, indoor climbing and outdoor climbing, climbing on different angles and rock types - people have all sorts of different strengths and weaknesses. It's not as simple as just climbing at a certain grade.

In reply to Quarryboy:

since when have statistics been 100% trustworthy?

In reply to Quarryboy:

I don't know why we bother having competitions at all really when it would be much cheaper to assume before-hand that the favourite would win, and leave it at that.

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: if that was on facebook i would definately be clicking the like button!

In reply to Quarryboy:

Ramon has climbed a number of 9a+ routes outdoors, including the FA of Las Ramblas. But I get the impression he concentrates more on the WC circuit. If so, the real question may not be why he beat Ondra (who spent a lot of time and effort on bouldering this year). It might be how well could Ramon climb outside, if that is where he put his focus?

In reply to Quarryboy: Why should he? Ramonet is one of the strongest climbers out there, and has been for a long time. He beats Ondra in competitions, and has done a phenomenal amount of hard rock climbing. I don't think it comes as any surprise that he's done a route that Ondra couldn't do (or hasn't done yet)

In reply to Quarryboy:


Odd question! I'm not sure I see the connection between being able to do something very specific (redpoint a route with endless swinging mono pull-ups) and how many routes at a specific grade someone has or hasn't onsighted. Some people get on with a particular route/style, others don't, that's the way it works.

Anyway, impressive effort on a disgusting route! Just watching the video has knackered my fingers

jk

In reply to beastofackworth:

100% of the time