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Hard Very Swanage

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 The Ivanator 18 Oct 2010
Had an eventful day in the Ruckle on Saturday, great weather, challenging climbing (at my modest level) and a rockfall sting in the tail.
Most places I'm comfortable and confident on VS, but Swanage does unnerve me, the dubious rock, the steepness, the topouts, climbing on the big crags there is a mild form of insanity, but it draws you back like a moth to the flame. The Rockfax Dorset introductory rider about dropping your leading grade by two notches often rings true in my experience.

Anyone care to share their Swanage stories or thoughts on the gnarly Swanage trad experience. What is your opinion on Swanage grading?
Or perhaps you need to tell me I'm just being a Southern Softie!
 Tom Last 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

I've dropped gear in the sea, thrown up and broke a rib all in the space of a 20min, 20m HVS at Swanage. Most trips there are memorable.
 Reach>Talent 18 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man:
> I've dropped gear in the sea, thrown up and broke a rib all in the space of a 20min, 20m HVS at Swanage. Most trips there are memorable.

Accidentally abbed into an E4 instead of a VS because of an excess of cider the previous evening....



 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Can't remember the route one of the 'big' E1s in the middle somewhere. We we down as a team of four and I drew the short straw. Parky led it in one pitch, the two others followed it on one rope each whilst I sat at the bottom and waited. A single 9mm came snaking back down and I followed it on that - gripped out of my tree, it looked so thin disappearing through all the overhangs and pinging off those sharp flinty nodules - never again!


Chris
 Tom Last 18 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:

And to think I was so keen to get to the pub...
 ClimberEd 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Snapped off a big chunk of rock which had a sling clipped to my rope wrapped round it. I'll see if I can find the pic...
 JimR 18 Oct 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> A single 9mm came snaking back down and I followed it on that - gripped out of my tree, it looked so thin disappearing through all the overhangs and pinging off those sharp flinty nodules - never again!
>
>
> Chris

I can empathise with that!!!

 jamespilgrim 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:
Most days at the Ruckle seem to become eventful! I agree that the rock can be dubious in places, but I guess that comes with the nature of it being a sea cliff and also some of the longer lines in the Ruckle not getting climbed much. But at the same time the limited number of routes I have done on the bigger cliffs (Guillemot and the Ruckle) have all been excellent fun.

I reckon it is definitely true that a regular VS leader should be a bit cautious in some areas (notably our friend the Ruckle) as if you find you cant do something the best you can hope for is the unbridled joy that will come with a 30m ascent of your ab rope. Certainly explains why I havent led that much there yet as its not like there is an easy escape if things go wrong.
 ClimberEd 18 Oct 2010
 Reach>Talent 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:
I have decidedly unpleasant memories of standing in the sea at Swanage attempting to remove an ab rope that was jammed under a boulder.

Every time I go near the bigger cliffs something goes horribly wrong, my belayer getting his left and right confused which lead to me ending up on a rather loose bit of E3 being the one that sticks out!
OP The Ivanator 18 Oct 2010
In reply to ClimberEd: We did that one on Saturday, great route. It was on pitch 2 of Black Sunshine nearby that as I stepped up midway through the second pitch a shoebox sized chunk of rock came away and crashed down onto the belay ledge. Fortunately my belayer Jez was alert and managed to avert serious damage by batting the rock away, it still caught him on the ankle and left a nasty gash though, I felt pangs of guilt as he hobbled back to the carpark, if you are reading this Jez ...get well soon!
 Jonny2vests 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

I'm a bit of a roof junkie and I love the place. I go two grades up compared to the grit on my back door.

OP The Ivanator 18 Oct 2010
In reply to jonny2vests: At 15 stonish (mostly not lard) I prefer stuff where I can get my weight on my feet and hauling over roofs (rooves?) is a nightmare ...gimme a technical slab anyday!
 MarkRyder 18 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim: you forgot to mention the mini epic on our last trip to the big cliffs of Swanage - being slammed into the rock as you held my fall (thanks), stuck rope, shunting up the ab rope after gear retrieval...bloody briliant.
 jezb1 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: Well I'm sitting here with my ankle on ice again after working down Dancing Ledge today. Had my walking poles to help me hobble down there and back up!

All adds to the fun!
OP The Ivanator 18 Oct 2010
In reply to jezb1: Glad it hasn't kept you off work at any rate, a sunny day at Dancing Ledge sounds like the perfect cure
 GrahamD 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Boulder Ruckle in January with a rising tide and falling sun was where I learnt how to prusik ! Non of us could start Sinbad so we managed to get a leader started with combined tactics. As the last of 3 it fell to me to jug up the rope for a bit. Only slightly wet and freezing cold by the end.
 Jonny2vests 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Yeah, not too many slabs down there. I know what angle I'd rather fall off any day though. And steep ground just feels more exposed / adventurous.
 nniff 18 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

In my early years, I touched a block on Tobacco Road. It was the size of a large old CRT TV set. It fell out of its hole, passed over me as I dropped a shoulder and plunged towards my cowering second. It hit the platform about 10 feet and exploded in a cloud of dust and flying fist-sized chunks. When the dust cleared, he was fortunately unscathed.

Boulder Ruckle remains the only place I have had to winch a free-hanging second out of his predicament.

Buccaneer is the worst three star route in the world. It is also the only three star route on which I have been reduced to a dry mouthed, whimpering and widdling nervous wreck.
 Reach>Talent 18 Oct 2010
In reply to nniff:
Boulder Ruckle remains the only place I have had to winch a free-hanging second out of his predicament.

I've had to do this on more occasions than I care to recall, do I need to change my choice of routes of my climbing partners?
 nniff 18 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:

I opted for the latter....
 Reach>Talent 18 Oct 2010
In reply to nniff:
> (In reply to mkean)
>
> I opted for the latter....

Well It has been a while since I've climbed with one mate who was affectionately refered to as "Hip hoist" because of how he needed to be belayed.
 Wilbur 18 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:
> (In reply to nniff)
> Boulder Ruckle remains the only place I have had to winch a free-hanging second out of his predicament.
>
> I've had to do this on more occasions than I care to recall, do I need to change my choice of routes of my climbing partners?

Strange; when I had to do that my climbing partner took care of the issue for me. Bit ungrateful, really. She seemed upset at the way I had to tie her off and leave her hanging while bringing up a third climber to add a bit of power to the hydraulics.

jcm
 jamespilgrim 18 Oct 2010
In reply to MarkRyder:
Ah yes Friends from the Deep... Climbing E3 while trying to free a stuck rope is the way forward. Need to get back on that route it was good fun, all of your points excepted!
 Al Evans 19 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim: Strophanthin. Was my Ruckle epic, at a move right from a roof on the second pitch (this seems to bear no relation to the guidebook description) I looked down to see my very inexperienced second peering up at me from the belay below a roof. I felt the good ledge on the right and it seemed solid, it was about the size of a dustbin, I moved to mantleshelf on it and the whole thing collapsed. Fortunately Dianne had ducked back behind the overhang and the half ton or so of rock cascaded past her.
When the dust died down she looked out smiling and said ¨that was impressive what are you doing´´ I replied that I was just trying to get up the bloody thing and climbed shakily to the top. Dianne followed without a worry, her usual smiling self, I ruminated how both or one of us could have been killed.
 Jonny2vests 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Al Evans:

Blimey. Perhaps you should have released the flying monkeys or something. Have you ever written your memoires Al?
 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Swanage is full of surprises.

Take Tensor II for example. Not a notorious part of Swanage by a long shot and deservedly one of the best VSs roundabout, but where else in the country would a belay like that pass without comment? One day someone will bridge up too hard behind it, or take a fall onto it before clipping the mega-peg and it will be messy death for all concerned.

In the Peak - the route would be routinely avoided, at Swanage it's given three stars!

Brings to mind the Heidelburg Creature. My mate got a bit lost and ended up belaying half way up on what can only be described as scree. I arrived at the belay just as it started snowing!

Definitely a memorable place
 Al Evans 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man: Indeed, Tensor 11 would be HVS in most places in the UK.
 jamespilgrim 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man:
Tensor II was on my hitlist for Guillemot - I shall keep my eyes peeled for this mega-peg... I presumed that the part of p2 described as slabby in the guide should read "almost vertical with no gear"
 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
> Tensor II was on my hitlist for Guillemot - I shall keep my eyes peeled for this mega-peg...

Don't worry, you can't miss it.

I presumed that the part of p2 described as slabby in the guide should read "almost vertical with no gear"

That's where your peg is. I remember being quite scared, but I am a massive wuss. Anyway, don't let me put you off, it is a very good route.
 Al Evans 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man: You are not a wuss, it is very scarey if you are expecting a VS.
 Michael Porter 19 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim: I've done Tensor 2, twice and have lead each pitch. You can't miss the 'mega peg' it is above the stance on P1, right at the start of P2. You can actually back up the belay with this peg and also a bomber medium wire above the peg. These are actually runners on P2 but make the belay very safe and you can still use them as runners. The boulder can be anchor point no.3. The crux of pitch 2 is passing the aforementioned wire and is therefore well protected by both the wire and peg. Enjoy, regards Michael.
 Michael Porter 19 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim: Sorry and yes it is a solid VS.
 staceyjg 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

I got spanked as a second on Thunderball. I can normally second 5a without a problem, however, this one had it in for me. We were climbing in a 3, Barra led it, then I was 2nd, I backed off the first couple of moves, then chris followed with very little effort. I was then given the following options:

1) Man up and get the f*ck on with it.
2) Climb up a route either side
3) wait until they had finished the route and have a rope lowered down an easier climb
4) prussik back up the ab rope.

I tried 2 first and attempted to start Mighty Joe, this wasn't happening at all, so went for number 1, as 3 and 4 didn't seem that appealing late in the afternoon.

I got back on, and, after almost taking a swim and a lot of supportive hauling from my belayer, I eventually managed to make the move up. I didn't really enjoy the rest of the route as I had properly knackered my arms on those first few moves, needless to say, that was most defintely the hardest 5a route I have ever had to climb. Give me technical and slabby any day of the week.
 Owen W-G 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Mikey P:

What's wrong with the Tensor II belay? That giant flake is going nowhere slowly.
 SGD 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: Not quite on the Ruckle but still Swanage but my mate lead a straight forward VS and topped out to find there was no belay....only a crumbly dangerous ledge of loose blocks and cheese followed by 50-60 degree grass. All he could do was sit carefully down and untie one rope which he then threw down. I then ran up to the top and a couple of abseils later I eventually found him (couldn't see him as the ground dropped away. He then tied off to the now in place ab line and I ran back down to 2nd the route.... interesting day that one... we then decided to go and do Benny which was another giggle
 LucaC 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: Abb'ed down the ramp into the Ruckle to do Heidelberg Creature (didn't read the guide book propperly) so had an hour scramble across the boulder field to get to the bottom (should have used the Marmolata Buttress).

Fell off leading p1 as I spent to long faffing about with gear and tired myself out. Managed to belly flop over the fault line to the belay after about an hour and collapsed. Brought the second up nicely enough and then was surprised as a very spritely chap who was probably in his 60s raced up after without any problem. That made me feel good! I then proceeded to pull off a rock the size of horses head starting to second p2 (thankfully it was all clear and it just fell to the base and exploded).

This took all morning so we then walked over to Subliminal for some shorter routes. Got down in glorious sunshine and my partner started to lead an HSV 5b or something similar - the sun went in, the rock got soapy, and he had to aid-downclimb before we escaped up Highstreet.

It was a good day out really, but our usual Swanage trips are a little less eventful.
 Michael Porter 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Owen W-G: Nothing is wrong with it, but 2/3 points of contact is always advisable, espescially if on loose terrain like swanage and if unsure like our friends original enquiry about the route. I wouldn't describe it as a flake though, that implies its attached, it isn't. Its a boulder perched on a ledge. I wouldn't be worried about it going anywhere slowly either, 10m/second would be more concerning. Mike
 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Mikey P:
I wouldn't describe it as a flake though, that implies its attached, it isn't. Its a boulder perched on a ledge. I wouldn't be worried about it going anywhere slowly either, 10m/second would be more concerning. Mike

Absolutely. As I climbed up over it, it did actually rock quite a bit, it wouldn't take much to knock the block clean off the ledge and if you're attached to it, game over.
 Reach>Talent 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man:
Absolutely. As I climbed up over it, it did actually rock quite a bit, it wouldn't take much to knock the block clean off the ledge and if you're attached to it, game over.

If you moved it then I'm not going anywhere near it, I've eaten meals that weigh more than you!



 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
I've eaten meals that weigh more than you!
>
>
>

Well make sure you bring some lunch if we get on that route next year then!
 ianto 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:
swanage was one of the first places i ever climbed and i still love it - you need a sense of adventure to enjoy it, but if you have one, you'll love it!
 ianto 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: oh, and on the subject of 'Hard Very Swanage', on one of my first visits there i was spanked by a HVS and on commenting to someone about it the reply was something like, 'ah, yes, swanage HVS, that'll be anything between HVS and E4!'.

since then though, i've come to agree with the grades fairly well and more often than not, when i've disagreed with a grade, it's becasue it's been overgraded!
 matt perks 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: All the above just shows what a cracking venue Swanage is. Which other UK crags would generate such a rapid list of memorable outings - probably Gogarth is the only comparable crag.

I will donate £50 to the Dorset bolt fund (ooh now that's ironic perhaps it should be the British Heart Foundation) if anyone can push that detached flake off the belay on Tensor II. I bet you can't...
 nickdunn 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man: Absolutely agree. My climbing buddy slipped just as he was moving on to the ledge (he was leading) - the gear under the roof ripped and he took a big swing. It then fell to me to go in front. The climbing was great, but having to rely on the flake with the prospect of another fall gave me very little comfort...

More generally, I definitely think Swanages knocks you down a bit, personally it's more due to crashing waves etc. than technical difficulty.
 clipskipper 19 Oct 2010
In reply to ianto:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> swanage was one of the first places i ever climbed and i still love it - you need a sense of adventure to enjoy it, but if you have one, you'll love it!

Have to say I agree, but then it's where I first climbed trad and still do.
 gillp 19 Oct 2010
Ah Swanage - happy memories.

Fixed gear failing as soon as I weighted it on the first pitch of Traverse of the Gods, resulting in a fall into the freezing December sea, and leaving no escape for maybe 7 or 8 pitches.

Winching a second up Finale Groove.

Watching a huge rockfall - tons of rock collapsing somewhere not too far from where I had been standing not so long before. Can't remember where that was.

Fortunately I moved up to the Peak district and so I'm still alive.
 uncontrollable 19 Oct 2010
In reply to matt perks:

> I will donate £50 to

I tried real hard believe me... I abseiled of said flake and fell on it and it didn't butch...
OP The Ivanator 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Mikey P:
> (In reply to jamespilgrim) Sorry and yes it is a solid VS.

Not done it myself (Tensor II) ...it is on the "to do" list for sure, solid VS though? From all the comments on here it sounds like the route is far from solid!
Great to hear all the Swanage stories, keep them coming. Even at the relatively benign Subluminal I saw a full helicopter winch rescue earlier this year.

 MHutch 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

I only went a couple of times while we were living in Reading. Did a scary, poorly-protected VS (can't remember which one) and something else which felt desperate for the grade. The 45 degree grass topouts added something, too.

After that we pointed the car at friendly old Pembroke instead.
 GrahamD 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Tensor II is solid, with the added bonus of topping out onto a flat ledge rather than the usual bank of rubble ! It is top end VS.
OP The Ivanator 19 Oct 2010
In reply to GrahamD: Cheers, I have climbed at Guillemot a few times and the top outs into the little quarry are better than most at Swanage, some of the routes seem a little unstable though ...I know Ledgend suffered rockfall this year that has altered the route and across at Cormorant a climber I know pulled a big chunk off Quality St.
Solid is always a relative term when applied to the larger Swanage crags.
 GrahamD 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Solid is always a relative term when applied to the larger Swanage crags.

I was using it in that context

 jezb1 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: Always thought Tensor II was quite a solid route and ok for the grade. The little slab start to P2 had me fooled for a while the first time, but the holds are there and there is pro apart from the peg. Quality route.
In reply to The Ivanator:

No-one's mentioned the local wildlife yet. Although they don't puke on you, the Swanage seagulls can make things pretty exciting - my partner had the fun of mantling up on the crux section of P3 of Tatra to find a *very* angry gull in his face. He did triumph in the end but not before the seagull had drawn blood!
 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

Just to be clear. I wasn't suggesting thatthe climbing on Tensor II is loose, it's not. The issue I had was with the belay, which is a detached block of at a guess several tons, which whilst not exactly poised, would not take much to trundle; it visible rocks if you use it to climb the wall behind.

The rest of the route is quite solid, in both respects.
Cheers,
Tom
 AJM 19 Oct 2010
In reply to Southern Man:

I have to say I thought the slab on tensor 2 was living proof that people get too used to climbing in one area - I thought the move was one of the few slabby moves at swanage and a grade or two overgraded as a result. The route as a whole is VS, but I think all three of us felt the first pitch was the harder one at a steady VS grade, no more.

My main problem with swanage is I always used to get lost in the dark trying to get back up to Langton matravers in the dark in winter and end up in some bog or another clambering through fences and vegetation.
 Tom Last 19 Oct 2010
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Southern Man)

>
> My main problem with swanage is I always used to get lost in the dark trying to get back up to Langton matravers in the dark in winter and end up in some bog or another clambering through fences and vegetation.

Haha, true that. Camped for the first time at Woody Hide earlier this year and got confused with the topography of the area. It ended up quite close to the Square and Compass, but not before traversing several fields, woods and a fair share of barbed wire.
 jamespilgrim 19 Oct 2010
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
>

> My main problem with swanage is I always used to get lost in the dark trying to get back up to Langton matravers in the dark in winter and end up in some bog or another clambering through fences and vegetation.

Could that possibly be related to an excessive amount of cider in the square and compass?

 AJM 20 Oct 2010
In reply to jamespilgrim:

That sort of thing was usually the post-bog-clambering solution, not it's cause...!
 steve taylor 20 Oct 2010
In reply to matt perks:
> (In reply to The Ivanator) All the above just shows what a cracking venue Swanage is. Which other UK crags would generate such a rapid list of memorable outings - probably Gogarth is the only comparable crag.
>
> I will donate £50 to the Dorset bolt fund (ooh now that's ironic perhaps it should be the British Heart Foundation) if anyone can push that detached flake off the belay on Tensor II. I bet you can't...

I'll be heading down with a car jack on Saturday....
 uncontrollable 20 Oct 2010
In reply to steve taylor:
> (In reply to matt perks)
> [...]
>
> I'll be heading down with a car jack on Saturday....

Oi, all that trouble for a couple of lousy bolts ...
 big 22 Oct 2010
In reply to uncontrollable: IU made the mistake of climbing Aquascrotum 2 at Fishermans Ledge once... The entire butress moves as you bridge up it!
It must have fallen down by now.
jcb 22 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: Ah, swanage... I used to carry an ice hammer to get up the steep earth at the top of the climbs.
I remember landing on a ledge with dead seabirds writhing in maggots, my second was not so pleased when I threw them down.

Try Traverse of the Gods, a great day out, solid rock, we took a 6 pack of beer for the trip
 sasmojo 22 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator: The Ruckle is on my black list. There are plenty of nice areas down at Swanage and elsewere in the world.

Climbing with a friend, we made a slight route selection error and ended up on waht could only be described as an E2 4c, the gear and roack was suspect, the half height belay was, not great (that is being polite) and I got ran over topping out on the second on the last pitch by a rock that is best described as a f***off sized flag stone.

The scratches down my arm and over my helmet remind me not to climb there again.
Kane 22 Oct 2010
In reply to sasmojo: That's a shame you had such a bad experience but there are reasons why a lot of people, myself included, think the Ruckle is one of the best crags in the country. The exposure and adventure of the climbs, sitting on the mid ledge belay watching waves crash beneath your second and generally it is just always memorable.

 Andy Manthorpe 22 Oct 2010
In reply to sasmojo: Mmm. Sounds familiar. Which route was that ?

Andy
 Simon4 22 Oct 2010
In reply to Kane:
> think the Ruckle is one of the best crags in the country. The exposure and adventure of the climbs, sitting on the mid ledge belay watching waves crash beneath your second and generally it is just always memorable.

The Ruckle is a special place, to me it is what UK climbing (or sea-cliff climbing) is all about.

It takes no prisoners, sneers at excuses and treats weakness with derision. It is full, in-your-face serious, from the moment you start those imposing, free-hanging abseils in, to the point where you are cutting steps up 50 degree wet grass with your nutkey to finish.

But it is also fantastic, exhilarating, imposing and exciting. Nothing is finer than reclining at the cliff top, watching the evening draw in after a Ruckle big route, knowing that you WILL live till tomorrow after all.
 Al Evans 23 Oct 2010
In reply to Different Steve:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> No-one's mentioned the local wildlife yet. Although they don't puke on you, the Swanage seagulls can make things pretty exciting - my partner had the fun of mantling up on the crux section of P3 of Tatra to find a *very* angry gull in his face. He did triumph in the end but not before the seagull had drawn blood!

Tatra, now theres another route that was suicidally undergraded at VS.
 Simon4 23 Oct 2010
In reply to Al Evans:

> Tatra, now theres another route that was suicidally undergraded at VS.

Only done it once, but I remember it being well deserving of its listing in the "100 Greatest British Sandbags" book.

 uncontrollable 23 Oct 2010
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Different Steve)
> [...]
>
> Tatra, now theres another route that was suicidally undergraded at VS.

But on the otherhand if you look at the route you kind of need that "It's only VS, how bad can it be" to even consider attempting it...
In that way I'm appreciating it's grading very much as otherwise I would have mnissed out on a great route
 steve taylor 23 Oct 2010
In reply to The Ivanator:

I think the grading there is consistent within the crag, but HVS at Tremadoc, for instance, feels a whole lot easier than it does at Swanage. Once you can climb HVS steadily there, you can climb E1 anywhere else

Only had one bad experience there in 20+ years, and that was pulling a hold off one of the most well-known HVSs when not wearing a helmet (which happened, of course, seconds after my second stated loudly that it was one of the most solid routes at Swanage!!!).
 Chris_Mellor 23 Oct 2010
In reply to Al Evans: That Tensor II belay reduced me to a gibbering lets-get-the-hell-outa-here-quick wreck.

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