/ THE LOWDOWN: 8c+/9a FA by Gabriele Moroni

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 24 Oct 2010
Gabriele Moroni on La Gabi, 8c, 4 kbAs expected, Gabri Moroni has made the FA of the project I mentioned a few days ago. Il frutto del Diavolo at Trento is about 28 meters long, pretty steep and has many pinches. it's a 10 meters 7c/c+ to a 10 move 7C+/8A boulder then a good but awkward rest with a footjam in a big pocket, then 8A...

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Null on 24 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Presumably that was yesterday (Saturday) ? I noticed a gang of folk looking "animated" at the crag car park yesterday afternoon as I was driving past. Thought about stopping to see what was going on but there was a van nudging my back bumper so I let it go.
Poor belayer must have been cold in there, however I imagine Gabriele was buring enough calories to keep himself warm.

Now it just remains to see whether this will become Trento's favourite superman crag, or whether the local council will go ape when they find out and ban climbing there completely. The problem is that they have just spent a fortune renovating the old WWI fort as a museum (not open yet) and the bit of old road behind the fort (which the crag overhangs completely) would be an ideal doddering tourist attraction giving impressive views into the gorge and photo opportunities for the fort itself.
Some of the routes start literally from the roof of an old guardhouse, which is part of the fort complex (although not included in the renovation project).
Fingers crossed, but to be honest I was amazed that they had gone ahead with development without getting permission first.

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