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Jeff Lowe's Metanoia on the Eiger ..the climb, the film?

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 Dane1 22 Nov 2010
Metanoia on the Eiger, is still unrepeated.

Current links and trailers here:


http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/jeff-lowes-metanoia.html
 Damo 22 Nov 2010
In reply to Dane1:

Hope the movie is good, it would be nice to see Jeff's place in the game given its due recognition.

And good to see you reminding people of Carlos Buhler. His climbing career is the one by which I judge all others, yet now he seems so unknown. His achievements are unparalleled in American climbing, and probably in world climbing. So many corporate 'world class athletes' are a sick joke compared to his climbs. I often wonder how much noise we would have heard from Twight if he had climbed just half the things that Buhler has done. More noise, or less? An upcoming film will tout one of its 'guides' as 'one of the world's foremost high altitude climbers'. This person has never climbed a big mountain without Sherpa help and could not get off the ground on most of Carlos' climbs.

D

OP Dane1 23 Nov 2010
In reply to Damo:

This from Mr. Lowe himself..posted over on ST when asked about the project.

" Our plan from the beginning was to go over to Switzerland last winter and get helicopter footage of Ueli on the route, then come home and edit a teaser that would help us to raise more money to go back this winter to re-create some key scenes from my climb in the exact spots they occurred.

The weather was never good for Ueli to start up last winter, but we worked the Eiger and the surrounding peaks by helicopter and shot scenes with Ueli, Catherine and me that allowed us to cut a good teaser. Back home we also got key interviews with the Latok crew (thanks to Piton Ron!), and Malcolm Daly. We are currently raising money to go back late this coming winter, hopefully to capture Ueli on the second ascent, but definitely to do the re-creations from my climb. We still have a release date of autumn, 2011.

We will have a major presence at the OR show in January. The OR folks feel this film, which documents my career from the 50's to the 2000's, also reflects the evolution of the outdoor industry itself, so they are helping to sponsor it. Very soon, the website, jefflowemovie.com, will have major new features and information and will be a good place to find out what's happening with the film. I will also try to do better to keep ST informed.

Ueli actually did make a start on Metanoia in October, but loose snow over compact slabs in the First Band below the Hinterstoisser Traverse caused a big fall, so he rightly came down to wait for better conditions. Understandably, Ueli does not want us to make a big deal out of his "second ascent", until he's actually done it. Considering all the elements that have to come together for a climb of Metanoia, together with Ueli's full-packed schedule of other projects more central to his own vision, we sre ready to cut versions of the story with or without a second ascent.

Werner, it's actually a bit of a stretch to claim many people have tried to repeat Metanoia, although that is what it says on the trailer. Over the years I've been asked for info on the route by about a dozen different climbers, many of them hard-core eastern European climbers for whom the sort of "suffering" required seems to be more palatable than for more pampered types. None of them reported much progress in even finding the route through the First Band. I've made certain Ueli knows it, though, and that's been proven by the fact that he got through the key pitch which is A4 followed by unprotected free climbing to the next possible belay. This pitch is directly behind where Toni Kurtz was hanging on the rope when he died, and the five pitches through the First Band were my tribute to the spirits of the Eiger Pioneers of the 1930's.

My decision to climb without bolts is one of the things that defines the Metanoia experience. It's really analogous to trying to find a bolt-free line up El Cap somewhere in the vicinity of the Nose: it ain't easy!

-Jello"



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