UKC

question, re: the nose

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USbiscuitin 29 Dec 2010
Hi,

Anyone know the current fastest British ascent of The Nose?
 Bulls Crack 29 Dec 2010
In reply to USbiscuitin:

Dinas Mot? About 10 minutes?
USbiscuitin 29 Dec 2010
In reply to USbiscuitin: i was refering rather, to the El Cap route..
 UKB Shark 29 Dec 2010
In reply to USbiscuitin:

Leo Houlding is almost certainly the title holder but I can only find reference to him doing it in "low 3 hours" with Ueli Steck in "2001?" here: http://noseinaday.com/. Given that the date has a question mark, the exact time unknown and Houlding's name is misspelt that info is obviously sketchy.
 duncan 30 Dec 2010
In reply to shark:

Simon, you've got your lines (on the database) crossed. The low 3 hours refers to Alex Honnold and Uli Steck.

I can't think who else it would be other than Leo but I can only find a time of 7:02 (http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/2nd3rds.htm Jason Singer and Leo Houlding. May 2001) which would be a stroll in the park for him. I'd be surprised if he hadn't done it faster.

7 hours should be easily beatable by a competent and moderately fit team with some Yosemite experience. So get on it people!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Dec 2010
In reply to duncan:
>
>
> 7 hours should be easily beatable by a competent and moderately fit team with some Yosemite experience. So get on it people!

Really? I thought doing it in a day was still a reasonably big deal?


Chris
 jon 30 Dec 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I've a feeling Duncan did it pretty quickly nearly 30 years ago...
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Dec 2010
In reply to jon:

30+ pitches in sub 7 hours - I can't even imagine it. Half Dome (23 pitches??) took us 10 1/2 hours and most of that is pretty easy going compared to the Nose!


Chris
 jon 30 Dec 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to jon)
> Half Dome (23 pitches??) took us 10 1/2 hours and most of that is pretty easy going compared to the Nose!
>
>
> Chris

Took me a day and a half... I'd have said 10 1/2 was quite good going for HD. 24 pitches as I remember. Mind you, we set out to do it like that. And my partner was suffering from gout!
 london_huddy 30 Dec 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Pete Rhodes (sometimes of this parish) has a sub-12hrs for the Nose; not bad for a bloke with a 'real' job!
 jon 30 Dec 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thierry Renault managed it in under 13 hours in 1979.

Duncan with the late Romain Vogler did sub 10 hours in 1984 (sorry Duncan) so 27 years later a sub 7 hour time by mere mortals doesn't sound unrealistic...

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