UKC

NEWS: James Pearson - F8b Onsight & E7/8 in Morocco

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 UKC News 10 Jan 2011
James Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco, 4 kbJames Pearson is currently in Tafroute in Morocco.

Pearson, on good form after a recent trip to Spain is hitting the granite outcrops around Tafroute and has flashed two F8b routes...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59759

 niggle 10 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Thanks for that.

LOVE the photography with the article, the panorama of Napoleon's Cap is first class!
 Quarryboy 10 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Well done James,

Hope you are enjoying the tropic lifestyle.

 Jack Geldard 10 Jan 2011
In reply to niggle: Thank you Niggle, I got up at 4am to take that shot I remember.

And - nice one James! Be careful on that crumbly granite!

Jack
In reply to UKC News:

Nice photos, agreed.

Why do I think the painted boulders were in Chad, or at any rate the Jerry/OTE ones? Possibly those were different painted boulders.

jcm
 MJ 10 Jan 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I thought the Jerry/OTE ones were in Libya!

Must be more than one set, the "artist" was obviously a busy man!!!
In reply to MJ:

Well, here's some Chad evidence:

http://www.heason.net/Speakers/Jerry_Moffatt/

Was Liquid Ambar really Britain's first 8c? This surprises me, although as I know next to nothing about sport climbing it shouldn't do.

jcm
 MJ 10 Jan 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Might have the mag somewhere. Will have a look if I can motivate myself...
 Peter Walker 10 Jan 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Definitely the first route graded 8c at the time. That said, I 'think' Moon did Hubble before Moffatt did LA (and gave it 8c+, obviously).
In reply to Peter Walker:

Aha, 8c *exactly*. That surprises me less, then.

jcm
 TimB 10 Jan 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

The same guy painted the boulders in Chad and Morocco. His name is Jean Verame, and his website seems to be down but you can read some of the content in Googles cache :

"Jean Verame : Man of action, Man of contemplation, Man of peace.

It is the desert, its silence, its sheer cliffs and rocks, its tent of blue sky that calls to Jean Verame, visionary artist. He answers by creating archetypal mysteries with colors spread on rock formations and escarpments in arids an lonely lanscapes : in the mountainous Tibesti desert of northwestern Chad ; in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco near Tafraoute ; on a desolate plateau of the Sïnaï.The lifeless landscape of the Sïnaï’s Hallawi Plateau over which a few years earlier tanks had rolled in battle formation was animated by deep blues, flares of red like Moses’burning bush, and black as impenetrable as the curtain covering Islam’s sacred Ka’bah. Thus transformed in 1980- 1981 by Jean Verame’s colors and glyphic signs, the hostile environment was given the title " Sïnaï Peace Junction "

Following the cessation of fighting in war-ravaged Chad, the artist sought out the Tibesti region where sphinx-like rocks had been carved millenia ealier by streams that once flowed where today there is nothing but sand and stones. Here, from March to June 1989, Jean Verame and his assistants, disregarding still-active mine fields and surveillance planes flying overhead, painted twenty-nine groups of rocks with brilliant blues, red, violet, black, and white."

and so on.

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:n51gYr9nd6oJ:www.veram...
 Richard Hall 11 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Not wanting to be negative, I am sure James' routes are hard but he writes the following:

...Over the last few days I have begun to open up new trad routes, 3 routes so far, up to 7c, all trad, today I made (what I think!) is the FA of the hardest trad route in the area. Not sure on the grade yet, but around E7/8 7a."

If his routes are only upto 7c how can that possibly be E7/8 7a?

A safe(ish) 7c might be E6/7 6b/c and a dangerous one may get a higher E grade, maybe upto E9, but a fail to understand how any route with 7a moves on it could only be 7c.
 JLS 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

>"fail to understand how any route with 7a moves on it could only be 7c"

Yes, that does seem a bit odd.
 Adam Lincoln 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> ...Over the last few days I have begun to open up new trad routes, 3 routes so far, up to 7c, all trad, today I made (what I think!) is the FA of the hardest trad route in the area. Not sure on the grade yet, but around E7/8 7a."

The way i read it was he opened up some trad routes up to 7c, but also made the FA of an E7/8 7a. (This being separate to the ones up to 7c)
 Andy Farnell 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln: That's how I interpret it as well. The 7c's were done before the E7/8 7a.

Andy F
 Jack Geldard 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Yes, that is the case Adam, 3 routes up to 7c PLUS the E7/8 7a.

I have added a 'plus' in to James' comments to help clear this up.

Happy climbing.

Jack
 Blue Straggler 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

What does it mean, to "open up" a route? Seemingly it's different to getting an FA. Does it just mean finding that it's climbable, doing every move but not managing to link them or lead it?
 Adam Lincoln 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> What does it mean, to "open up" a route?

Its just a different way of saying making the first ascent. Though i guess you knew that already and are just playing devils advocate.
 Blue Straggler 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
I didn't and I wasn't - I don't mess around on proper threads! Thanks
 Richard Hall 11 Jan 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Ahh, makes sence now I have read it again. Thanks for clearing that up.
 USBRIT 12 Jan 2011
In reply to UKC News: I have climbed quite a few of FA's in the Tafroute area,mostly on the quartzite crags. However we did explore and put up some climbs on the granite closer to the town of Tafroute.One up an obvious Crack above the village of Aday. In a nutshell I personally think the granite in that area is rubbish. ,and it would be the last place I would travel to do bouldering,apart from as seen in the article for the nice views. However the trad crags of quartzite of the Jebel El Kest hills area outside Tafroute have many excellent climbs.

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