UKC

HI,
I was out climbing yesterday with a new partner. When we rechecked each others gear I saw the fig8 on his belay didn't look right.
Instead of tying a stopper knot he had rethreaded the end through a second time.
I've never seen it before, but it appeared to hold firm, and held when he took several falls.
When we we're finishing up he untied with ease where I was stuck fighting my way out of my standard fig8.
Anybody else got any experience trying this knot?
I'll post a phot once I find my camera

In reply to Mike_Gannon: Yes, I think it's called the Yosemite Finish. I read an article somewhere recently however that raised some doubts on its merits.

Al

In reply to Mike_Gannon:
http://www.putzl.com/~klew/f8x.shtml

In reply to Mike_Gannon:
Yes, I was shown how to do it at the wall the other day.
It makes it easier to keep the knot out of the way and to undo afterwards.
James

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

The Yosemite finish is a similar modification for the bowline. I'm not sure whether the Fig8 version really has a name.

In reply to James Oswald: Great, wasn't sure whether it would be acceptable at an indoor wall.

Thanks everyone

Isn't it called a "Figure of Nine" or is that something else?

In reply to charlieg0pzo: Nope, that's something else; it's the rethreaded/on a bight version of the Stevedore knot.

In reply to Mike_Gannon:

I use that finish a lot teaching kids, as it's smaller - they won't get a stopper knot in the face in a fall.

In reply to Mike_Gannon:

Fine to use on the wall or sport climbing - but if using the knot as the attachment point for your anchor krabs and belay krab when building a belay in trad climbing , there is a small chance that the knot can roll and invert. best stick with fig 8 and stopper in trad situations..

In reply to Mike_Gannon: Thanks for the advice.
May use this for winter at least.

Not sure how this type of fig8 would roll if the loop was tied into an acnhor. I assume you are refering to using it to tie two ropes together for longer abseils?

Mike