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My boyfriend has recently started climbing with me. He has been climbing for about 3 months and is getting frustrated that he hasn't yet lead a 6a or top roped a 6b clean. I honestly can't remember how long that took me, so I thought I'd ask the UK climbing minds what they thought.
In reply to Uluru:
i've been climbing (mostly indoors) for 3-4 years and i'm only just top roping 6a+ and comfortably leading 5+
i've been climbing (mostly indoors) for 3-4 years and i'm only just top roping 6a+ and comfortably leading 5+
In reply to Uluru:
I toproped a 6a on my first day of climbing, I started leading about 5 months later and then I led a 6a after about 10 previous routes.
I toproped a 6a on my first day of climbing, I started leading about 5 months later and then I led a 6a after about 10 previous routes.
In reply to Uluru: It'll take a while for him to gain enough strength to maintain a 6a lead, especially on an overhang.
Keep trying though and he'll get it soon enough
Took me about 4 years, but 3 of that was attending a kids club where no-one lead!
Keep trying though and he'll get it soon enough
Took me about 4 years, but 3 of that was attending a kids club where no-one lead!
In reply to Uluru: A few months, going 2-3 times a month.
I hate the way people associate climbing around grades so much. It is a good way to measure progress, but i'd be much more impressed if someone waltzed up a 5. Then heaved themselves grunting and groaning up a 6b.
Grades vary so much from centre to centre, i can climb 6a/6b at my local wall. Yet 6 months ago i went to a different centre and onsighted a 6c quite easily, and i've only been climbing for a year overall.
The point is that he's being a typical man, wanting to do everything at 100mph. What grade you can lead depends entirely on what your strengths are, who set the route, how harshly/softly it was graded etc etc...
There is no way to put timescales on achieving a certain grade, some people could onsight a 7a after 5 minutes, others take years of hard training.
I hate the way people associate climbing around grades so much. It is a good way to measure progress, but i'd be much more impressed if someone waltzed up a 5. Then heaved themselves grunting and groaning up a 6b.
Grades vary so much from centre to centre, i can climb 6a/6b at my local wall. Yet 6 months ago i went to a different centre and onsighted a 6c quite easily, and i've only been climbing for a year overall.
The point is that he's being a typical man, wanting to do everything at 100mph. What grade you can lead depends entirely on what your strengths are, who set the route, how harshly/softly it was graded etc etc...
There is no way to put timescales on achieving a certain grade, some people could onsight a 7a after 5 minutes, others take years of hard training.
In reply to Uluru: Thanks for your replies so far. I think it's making him feel a bit better knowing that it has taken most people longer than 3 months
In reply to Uluru: I understand where he's coming from..but a couple of points
A) he's not 'slow' in getting to that stage, it takes time, his technique needs time to devalop etc
B) the more you get grade obsessed the less likely you are to get there..climb you're current lead grade and step up when you're ready, forget 6a etc just let it come and you'll get there!
C) If progressing quickly is really important, maybe take a session or two a week to work on technique, at this stage it's almost certainly the reason 6a isn't attainable yet. OK maybe a powerful climber could power through a 6a but technique is usually the limiting factor for begginer/intermediate climbers, learn how to do precise footwork,fluid movement, clipping with a straight arm, flag moves, drop knee moves etc these are really important on steep indoor routes, a good flag move or knee drop can really make a move less hard on the arms and allow you to climber harder than you currently can! And make a concious effort not to power through moves!
Build up technique and let it come, it WILL come!
C
A) he's not 'slow' in getting to that stage, it takes time, his technique needs time to devalop etc
B) the more you get grade obsessed the less likely you are to get there..climb you're current lead grade and step up when you're ready, forget 6a etc just let it come and you'll get there!
C) If progressing quickly is really important, maybe take a session or two a week to work on technique, at this stage it's almost certainly the reason 6a isn't attainable yet. OK maybe a powerful climber could power through a 6a but technique is usually the limiting factor for begginer/intermediate climbers, learn how to do precise footwork,fluid movement, clipping with a straight arm, flag moves, drop knee moves etc these are really important on steep indoor routes, a good flag move or knee drop can really make a move less hard on the arms and allow you to climber harder than you currently can! And make a concious effort not to power through moves!
Build up technique and let it come, it WILL come!
C
In reply to Uluru: I achieved a 6a lead on my second visit at my local climbing wall, but the routes vary on level from the people who set them. I am happy to climb 6b on the majority of the top rope routes bar one and I gathered that this one is more representative of a 6b. At that point I realised that I shouldn't be climbing routes just to say I can climb that grade but rather work at the techniques and learn new skills that will allow me to climb better outside the wall.
As the saying goes, its not about winning, it is about playing.
As the saying goes, its not about winning, it is about playing.
In reply to Uluru: Everyone goes at their own pace, at least they should be doing.
I'm not a natural so have to work at the routes. I lead 6b+ & top rope 7's but that's not come without some form of commitment over the past 20 years.
I'm not a natural so have to work at the routes. I lead 6b+ & top rope 7's but that's not come without some form of commitment over the past 20 years.
In reply to Uluru: Depends on the 6a i lead 6a 3 days into my climbing career, after lots of falling blood etc etc, but i was pretty fit and have trained so hard since to get anywhere, my advice would be train hard, try 6a outdoors on lots of different routes as indoor routes are very selective!!
In reply to Uluru:
No idea how long it took me, it's a long time ago but I'd guess it was a couple of months. My girlfriend has not long started, she led her first 6a after 3 or 4 sessions but then she seems to have no fear of falling.
jk
No idea how long it took me, it's a long time ago but I'd guess it was a couple of months. My girlfriend has not long started, she led her first 6a after 3 or 4 sessions but then she seems to have no fear of falling.
jk
In reply to Uluru:
I can relate to your boyfriend. Not that I remember how long it took me, but I had a girlfriend who introduced me to climbing. It's wasn't nice to know that she was much better than me at a sport known for being physical and masculine. She had stronger fingers than me (and probably lats as well)and that knocked my masculinity a bit. I think it's quite a big motivator!
I can relate to your boyfriend. Not that I remember how long it took me, but I had a girlfriend who introduced me to climbing. It's wasn't nice to know that she was much better than me at a sport known for being physical and masculine. She had stronger fingers than me (and probably lats as well)and that knocked my masculinity a bit. I think it's quite a big motivator!
In reply to Uluru: It takes different lengths of time for each individuals to improve their grade. For example, I asked my climbing instructor (I'm 17) why I still couldn't climb a V3 after 3 months of being on V2 which I could climb no problem, he said that it just takes time and persistence.
My advice to your boyfriend would be to climb every single route on the grade he can do comfortably, and gradually his technique should get better and he will be surprised how easy he will find the next grade up when he tries it. Also, tell him not to feel pressured by those around him doing harder grade, they too were once in his position
Even though it's good to focus on the next grade, I think that he should just climb and enjoy, afterall that should be the main reason to climb!
My advice to your boyfriend would be to climb every single route on the grade he can do comfortably, and gradually his technique should get better and he will be surprised how easy he will find the next grade up when he tries it. Also, tell him not to feel pressured by those around him doing harder grade, they too were once in his position
Even though it's good to focus on the next grade, I think that he should just climb and enjoy, afterall that should be the main reason to climb!
In reply to coinneach:
I think 6a is a froggy grade to impress their females as we do trad and 5b is a lot of good climbers limit outside.
I am supposed to have done E3, 5c according to the guide but a lot of 5b routes have seemed a lot harder.
For thosewho think 5c is not hard I can point you at an E5 if you want on grit, or a few 5b's on Cloggy that will give you a tightened sphincter.
I think 6a is a froggy grade to impress their females as we do trad and 5b is a lot of good climbers limit outside.
I am supposed to have done E3, 5c according to the guide but a lot of 5b routes have seemed a lot harder.
For thosewho think 5c is not hard I can point you at an E5 if you want on grit, or a few 5b's on Cloggy that will give you a tightened sphincter.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I think you presumed right. Sport 6a indoors is normally more like HVS 5a in the real world.
In answer to the OP, around 6 months for the first clean lead but around a year to 18 months to get steady at the grade and it varies considerably from place to place.
I think you presumed right. Sport 6a indoors is normally more like HVS 5a in the real world.
In answer to the OP, around 6 months for the first clean lead but around a year to 18 months to get steady at the grade and it varies considerably from place to place.
In reply to Uluru:
Depend what's holding him back, could be technique, strength or psychological. I think i climbed 6a on my first visit to the wall. Though i stayed at that grade for months and months.
Most inspiring/frustrating thing i've seen so far is a guy who had climbed two indoor sessions. Came sport climbing with us, climbed one easy 5 to learn how to clip. The led as his second climb a funking scary, pumpy, sustained and technical 6b+, a real bench mark climb too. If someone wanted to upgrade it to 6c i wouldn't complain. The guy literally cruised it. He had one footslip AFTER The crux, didnt rest and just jumped back on and kept climbing. Almost and on sight too.
His only relevant training was being an endurance cyclist. Talented b*stard
I think your boyfriend could probably climb 6a now, i think it's a fairly achievable grade for anyone with average fitness. A little technique tweaking and he could probably cruise it. If it is fitness holding him back, a good motivation to get out training
Depend what's holding him back, could be technique, strength or psychological. I think i climbed 6a on my first visit to the wall. Though i stayed at that grade for months and months.
Most inspiring/frustrating thing i've seen so far is a guy who had climbed two indoor sessions. Came sport climbing with us, climbed one easy 5 to learn how to clip. The led as his second climb a funking scary, pumpy, sustained and technical 6b+, a real bench mark climb too. If someone wanted to upgrade it to 6c i wouldn't complain. The guy literally cruised it. He had one footslip AFTER The crux, didnt rest and just jumped back on and kept climbing. Almost and on sight too.
His only relevant training was being an endurance cyclist. Talented b*stard
I think your boyfriend could probably climb 6a now, i think it's a fairly achievable grade for anyone with average fitness. A little technique tweaking and he could probably cruise it. If it is fitness holding him back, a good motivation to get out training
In reply to Uluru:
Ineresting to see alot of people claim one grade for lead and one for top rope.
I can climb 8c on toprope, with lots of rests. Doesn't mean I can climb 8c.
Surely if your leading 6b and toproping 7s then your doing something wrong in the lead department.
Surely it's easier to lead routes in the 7s than it is to top rope them?
As for the op. Took me no time to lead 6a indoors but over a year outside. But then the pace quickened and 3 years after that first 6a I've just done my first 7c.
Ineresting to see alot of people claim one grade for lead and one for top rope.
I can climb 8c on toprope, with lots of rests. Doesn't mean I can climb 8c.
Surely if your leading 6b and toproping 7s then your doing something wrong in the lead department.
Surely it's easier to lead routes in the 7s than it is to top rope them?
As for the op. Took me no time to lead 6a indoors but over a year outside. But then the pace quickened and 3 years after that first 6a I've just done my first 7c.
In reply to mark_wellin:
How so?
Part of the difference in peoples' top roping and lead grades is the ability to let go with 1 hand long enough to clip. Then there's the fear factor of falling above the clip, some people deal with that very well, others don't.
> (In reply to Uluru)
> Surely if your leading 6b and toproping 7s then your doing something wrong in the lead department.
> Surely it's easier to lead routes in the 7s than it is to top rope them?
> Surely it's easier to lead routes in the 7s than it is to top rope them?
How so?
Part of the difference in peoples' top roping and lead grades is the ability to let go with 1 hand long enough to clip. Then there's the fear factor of falling above the clip, some people deal with that very well, others don't.
In reply to teflonpete:
Well the rope gets in the way for a start. And the swing on overhanging routes is scarier than any fall. What i was getting at is that you can't really claim to climb a grade if you top rope it. You might be able to do the moves on a 7 while topspin but you can't climb it in the sense of an ascent.
Well the rope gets in the way for a start. And the swing on overhanging routes is scarier than any fall. What i was getting at is that you can't really claim to climb a grade if you top rope it. You might be able to do the moves on a 7 while topspin but you can't climb it in the sense of an ascent.
In reply to mark_wellin:
Agreed.
> (In reply to teflonpete)
> What i was getting at is that you can't really claim to climb a grade if you top rope it. You might be able to do the moves on a 7 while topspin but you can't climb it in the sense of an ascent.
> What i was getting at is that you can't really claim to climb a grade if you top rope it. You might be able to do the moves on a 7 while topspin but you can't climb it in the sense of an ascent.
Agreed.
In reply to mark_wellin:
How? There's no extra clipping moves, no extra pump from pulling up rope, no anxiety and you're 3-4kg lighter without the rope hanging off you.
Ok, if you're wrestling with an upside-down roof taking the clips out as you go then I agree but that's not exactly common.
jk
> Surely it's easier to lead routes in the 7s than it is to top rope them?
How? There's no extra clipping moves, no extra pump from pulling up rope, no anxiety and you're 3-4kg lighter without the rope hanging off you.
Ok, if you're wrestling with an upside-down roof taking the clips out as you go then I agree but that's not exactly common.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
How many 7c or b do you know that aren't overhanging or have a roof of some sort?
There's probably a few but they will be the minority.
Anyways it's my experience with dogging 7s that it's harder top roping than bolt to bolt leading... Except if you can't do the moves and need to employ the assisted dyno.... Then a top rope is invaluable.
How many 7c or b do you know that aren't overhanging or have a roof of some sort?
There's probably a few but they will be the minority.
Anyways it's my experience with dogging 7s that it's harder top roping than bolt to bolt leading... Except if you can't do the moves and need to employ the assisted dyno.... Then a top rope is invaluable.
In reply to Fredt:
They are using pooves 6a, not OUR definition of it. Their 6a is apparently our 5a, must be something to do with lack of friction. Imagine smearing on your laptop just after you polished it.
They are using pooves 6a, not OUR definition of it. Their 6a is apparently our 5a, must be something to do with lack of friction. Imagine smearing on your laptop just after you polished it.
In reply to sutty:
Imagine smearing on your laptop just after you polished it.
Hahahahahahahaha i don't wantto know about you masturbation procedure!
Imagine smearing on your laptop just after you polished it.
Hahahahahahahaha i don't wantto know about you masturbation procedure!
In reply to Uluru: I see lots of climbers getting up 6a's and harder at my climbing wall. They seem to get up them with a combination of natural strength, adrenalin and nervous energy and taught ropes when seconding. I would not flatter them by saying that they "climbed" the route. Much better to go slowly and develop experience, technique and strength at the same time.
Al
Al
In reply to Uluru:
Been climbing 40 years,,,,still not there, do I care, not one bit. There's a diff, South chimney at Almscliff, that I've never been able to get up without a 6a struggle.
Pete
Been climbing 40 years,,,,still not there, do I care, not one bit. There's a diff, South chimney at Almscliff, that I've never been able to get up without a 6a struggle.
Pete
In reply to Uluru:
First 6a came after 8 years of trad climbing - or a couple of hours of sport climbing...
First 6a came after 8 years of trad climbing - or a couple of hours of sport climbing...
In reply to Pete Ford:
I doubt most people can do that now, a lost technique. Wonder if I can even get in it now?
Perhaps we should point aspiring '6a' climbers at some 3c thrutching horrors to see how they go on. Certainly a better work out than some of those gym machines.;-0
I doubt most people can do that now, a lost technique. Wonder if I can even get in it now?
Perhaps we should point aspiring '6a' climbers at some 3c thrutching horrors to see how they go on. Certainly a better work out than some of those gym machines.;-0
In reply to Uluru: In replay to the OP. The last one I led at the wall took me about 1 minute and 20 secs. Seriously I would imagine most keen people would get there in at least a year but body conditioning, diet, strength, pullups etc would be part of it. Better to use keeness for climbing as motivation to get generally healthy than worry about the grade being climbed
In reply to sutty:
Like that b*stard chimney on Gashed Crag on Tryfan. Horrible polished nightmare of a thing, doesn't matter what sport grade you can climb it's just desperate thrutching. HVD my ar*e! Never again! :0)
> (In reply to Pete Ford)
> Perhaps we should point aspiring '6a' climbers at some 3c thrutching horrors to see how they go on. Certainly a better work out than some of those gym machines.;-0
Like that b*stard chimney on Gashed Crag on Tryfan. Horrible polished nightmare of a thing, doesn't matter what sport grade you can climb it's just desperate thrutching. HVD my ar*e! Never again! :0)
In reply to Uluru: You are right I was talking only talking about inside. I haven't taken him outside yet. I am a total wimp in the cold.
I know grades aren't everything, to me they definitely aren't. I'd much rather have a brilliant day than worry about what grade I was climbing. But I guess when your starting out it is a good way of judging if you are improving or not.
I know grades aren't everything, to me they definitely aren't. I'd much rather have a brilliant day than worry about what grade I was climbing. But I guess when your starting out it is a good way of judging if you are improving or not.
In reply to teflonpete:
Man up Pete, we can show you dozens like that. There are even threads about them.
Man up Pete, we can show you dozens like that. There are even threads about them.
In reply to Uluru: Indoors doesn't count - it's all bollocks. I recently discovered when reading a "new" bouldering guide that we were climbing some 6c+ problems at Almscliffe back in the mid seventies as part of our routines. Back then they were just problems. Now they are big news.
In reply to Uluru:
I didn't lead anything above VS for the first 10 years of my climbing!
I didn't lead anything above VS for the first 10 years of my climbing!
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
Hhmm don't suck your own cock too much 6c+ isn't exactly setting the world ablaze.
Indoors does count if that's what you choose to do. Just like me calling you a tw*t counts. Stop bashing what other people do just because you don't get it.
Hhmm don't suck your own cock too much 6c+ isn't exactly setting the world ablaze.
Indoors does count if that's what you choose to do. Just like me calling you a tw*t counts. Stop bashing what other people do just because you don't get it.
In reply to sutty: I don't think he is talking trad 6c+ because it would be strange to put a + for a trad route. I think he is probably talking font 6C+ because he refers to them as problems and thats what a lot of almscliff is.
It took me 3 or 4 months to lead 6a.
It took me 3 or 4 months to lead 6a.
In reply to Uluru:
To your original question, probably a few months. But how long it takes your boyfriend will depend on how much he enjoys it and how much he wants to improve. And how hard he tries.
To your original question, probably a few months. But how long it takes your boyfriend will depend on how much he enjoys it and how much he wants to improve. And how hard he tries.
In reply to sutty:
Hmmm, no mate you watch your own neck. When did they start using + signs in trad then?
That's what I thought.
Anyways I was more trying to point to the fact that he should bash others achievements, be they indoor or out, when his are just as pointless. As that's just it isn't it, it's all pointless... Well unless you live in an eyrie atthe top of an e1.
Hmmm, no mate you watch your own neck. When did they start using + signs in trad then?
That's what I thought.
Anyways I was more trying to point to the fact that he should bash others achievements, be they indoor or out, when his are just as pointless. As that's just it isn't it, it's all pointless... Well unless you live in an eyrie atthe top of an e1.
In reply to Uluru:
Top-roped 6a at WICC when it was called Summit. Not convinced that it was a 'real' 6a as I've struggled to repeat 6as at other walls. So currently 18 months and climbing. On the flipside, I can climb HVS 5a comfortably when seconding and lead VS 4c / fr5+, which I'd bet that most 6a wall bred climbers would struggle with.
Top-roped 6a at WICC when it was called Summit. Not convinced that it was a 'real' 6a as I've struggled to repeat 6as at other walls. So currently 18 months and climbing. On the flipside, I can climb HVS 5a comfortably when seconding and lead VS 4c / fr5+, which I'd bet that most 6a wall bred climbers would struggle with.
In reply to mattrm:
I hate when people say that... Wall bred climbers can't do this and that... Moral high ground balh blah blah.
Yeah sure those that go to the wall once a moth and climb 6a would probably struggle on a vs but it's simple not true of regular indoor climbers. If they onsight 6a every time no sweat indoors they would piss up it.
I'm a 'wall bred climber', haven't found a vs that has given me any difficulty
I hate when people say that... Wall bred climbers can't do this and that... Moral high ground balh blah blah.
Yeah sure those that go to the wall once a moth and climb 6a would probably struggle on a vs but it's simple not true of regular indoor climbers. If they onsight 6a every time no sweat indoors they would piss up it.
I'm a 'wall bred climber', haven't found a vs that has given me any difficulty
In reply to mark_wellin: I agree it annoys me as well. Each to their own. I am happy to lead most E1's and the majority of times it's not a struggle. I'm not aiming to be a world class climber and neither is my boyfriend, I was really only asking to let him know that it will take time, even with visiting the wall twice a week and not to get too worried that he hasn't led one (except for one at Boulder's which was clearly overgraded).
In reply to mark_wellin:
Snap, well nearly, I've found a couple!
I'm a wall bred climber, generally onsight 6a indoors (unless it's a sandbag), get a 6a+ or 6b by the 3rd go and have onsighted 6c once. On trad I'm steady at VS, onsighted quite a few HVSs and a few E1s and 6a+ sport outdoors. Bearing in mind that at most walls the grades are about half a grade to a grade soft that makes my climbing ability about the same all round whether indoors or out. Most of my climbing partners are similar in their indoor or outdoor grades.
> (In reply to mattrm)
> I'm a 'wall bred climber', haven't found a vs that has given me any difficulty
Snap, well nearly, I've found a couple!
I'm a wall bred climber, generally onsight 6a indoors (unless it's a sandbag), get a 6a+ or 6b by the 3rd go and have onsighted 6c once. On trad I'm steady at VS, onsighted quite a few HVSs and a few E1s and 6a+ sport outdoors. Bearing in mind that at most walls the grades are about half a grade to a grade soft that makes my climbing ability about the same all round whether indoors or out. Most of my climbing partners are similar in their indoor or outdoor grades.
In reply to Uluru: My boyfriend was born to climb and sometimes I feel like I was born to sit in a comfy chair. If you want him to improve I would suggest giving him the support he needs rather than worrying him for not having achieved a 6a.
I can understand it's difficult when you want to climb with him. Why not join a club and each find people more at your level who can teach you something new without putting pressure on your relationship. Then when you do climb together make it a fun thing to do. I know that I perform better with my boyfriend if I've spent a few days with other people from our climbing group.
Also don't put too much pressure on him to belay you up big routes before he's ready. All aspects of climbing can be intimidating when you're learning.
And maybe it's not relevant as I'm a girl but I climb up to 4c outside and in (depending on the route/conditions etc. obviously) and I've been learning for a year and a half.
I can understand it's difficult when you want to climb with him. Why not join a club and each find people more at your level who can teach you something new without putting pressure on your relationship. Then when you do climb together make it a fun thing to do. I know that I perform better with my boyfriend if I've spent a few days with other people from our climbing group.
Also don't put too much pressure on him to belay you up big routes before he's ready. All aspects of climbing can be intimidating when you're learning.
And maybe it's not relevant as I'm a girl but I climb up to 4c outside and in (depending on the route/conditions etc. obviously) and I've been learning for a year and a half.
In reply to Uluru:
Tell him this from experience... Men are shit climbers when they start. Hey hunk it's all about muscle when it's not. Tell him to look at his feet and he will jump a grade. For 3 months there won't be any increase in strength, persevere and the tendons will start adapting and the gains will come at last. After the initial hump of no strength improvement is very fast and if he is keen and fit should get way past 6a within a year. It plateau's after this while technique and strength catch up with each other, but improvement will come if your willing to work.
As I said earlier after a year I got 6a outside. And now 7c, your body will find it's limit unless you push it.
Tell him this from experience... Men are shit climbers when they start. Hey hunk it's all about muscle when it's not. Tell him to look at his feet and he will jump a grade. For 3 months there won't be any increase in strength, persevere and the tendons will start adapting and the gains will come at last. After the initial hump of no strength improvement is very fast and if he is keen and fit should get way past 6a within a year. It plateau's after this while technique and strength catch up with each other, but improvement will come if your willing to work.
As I said earlier after a year I got 6a outside. And now 7c, your body will find it's limit unless you push it.
In reply to Uluru:
Just take him up a multi pitch v-diff outside and when he's mid way up and terrified remind him it's beginners grade route. Soon puts things into perspective. Most mens ego is their biggest enemy to progression in just about anything and the sooner you bash it out of them the better. He'll enjoy himself 200% more when he realises it's the climbing thats the most fun part, not reaching the top. Hopefully he's intelligent enough not to go into depression afterwards or something like that
Just take him up a multi pitch v-diff outside and when he's mid way up and terrified remind him it's beginners grade route. Soon puts things into perspective. Most mens ego is their biggest enemy to progression in just about anything and the sooner you bash it out of them the better. He'll enjoy himself 200% more when he realises it's the climbing thats the most fun part, not reaching the top. Hopefully he's intelligent enough not to go into depression afterwards or something like that
In reply to LottiePorter:
Ahh I'm not worried at all. He is worried about it that's all. I climb with a lot of different people and grades do not bother me. He was just worried that he wasn't progressing as fast as he thought he would.
Thanks for your reply though. I can see it wouldn't be good if I ever put that kind of pressure on him. He puts enough pressure on himself I would never add to it. For me climbing is about having fun not chasing grades.
> (In reply to Uluru) If you want him to improve I would suggest giving him the support he needs rather than worrying him for not having achieved a 6a.
>
> I can understand it's difficult when you want to climb with him. Why not join a club and each find people more at your level who can teach you something new without putting pressure on your relationship. Then when you do climb together make it a fun thing to do. I know that I perform better with my boyfriend if I've spent a few days with other people from our climbing group.
>
> I can understand it's difficult when you want to climb with him. Why not join a club and each find people more at your level who can teach you something new without putting pressure on your relationship. Then when you do climb together make it a fun thing to do. I know that I perform better with my boyfriend if I've spent a few days with other people from our climbing group.
Ahh I'm not worried at all. He is worried about it that's all. I climb with a lot of different people and grades do not bother me. He was just worried that he wasn't progressing as fast as he thought he would.
Thanks for your reply though. I can see it wouldn't be good if I ever put that kind of pressure on him. He puts enough pressure on himself I would never add to it. For me climbing is about having fun not chasing grades.
In reply to sutty:
There's that bloody awful thing behind the Pulpit at Almscliff too, might be given 4a or possibly 4b. Without word of a lie that as the hardest fight I had last year, I nearly vomited!
> Perhaps we should point aspiring '6a' climbers at some 3c thrutching horrors to see how they go on. Certainly a better work out than some of those gym machines.;-0
There's that bloody awful thing behind the Pulpit at Almscliff too, might be given 4a or possibly 4b. Without word of a lie that as the hardest fight I had last year, I nearly vomited!
In reply to mark_wellin:
>I'm a 'wall bred climber', haven't found a vs that has given me any difficulty
In that case I suspect you need to broaden your horizons.
jcm
>I'm a 'wall bred climber', haven't found a vs that has given me any difficulty
In that case I suspect you need to broaden your horizons.
jcm
In reply to mark_wellin:
>If they onsight 6a every time no sweat indoors they would piss up it.
Rubbish. Honestly.
jcm
>If they onsight 6a every time no sweat indoors they would piss up it.
Rubbish. Honestly.
jcm
In reply to Uluru:
Frankly if your boyfriend has been going to the wall regularly (say a couple of times a week) for three months and can't lead 6a yet then he's probably never going to be particularly good, depending on motivation. But then most of us aren't; it's nothing to worry about.
jcm
Frankly if your boyfriend has been going to the wall regularly (say a couple of times a week) for three months and can't lead 6a yet then he's probably never going to be particularly good, depending on motivation. But then most of us aren't; it's nothing to worry about.
jcm
In reply to Uluru:
From starting to climb to leading 6a (indoors): 4 months
From starting to lead to leading 6a (indoors): 2 hours.
First lead was a 4 to get comfortable with clipping bolts on lead, then did a few 5's, then a couple of 6a's that I liked the look of. Grades were just a rough guide. I picked the routes that I thought looked challenging, then looked at the grade. Completed the climbs a bit pumped, but the moves were solid, and I didn't have to scrabble for clips. I'd far rather climb a route dynamically and cleanly than thug my way up something out of my 'grade', constantly sitting on the rope.
As for outdoors, I'll let you know mid-march, not had a chance to get outside yet!
From starting to climb to leading 6a (indoors): 4 months
From starting to lead to leading 6a (indoors): 2 hours.
First lead was a 4 to get comfortable with clipping bolts on lead, then did a few 5's, then a couple of 6a's that I liked the look of. Grades were just a rough guide. I picked the routes that I thought looked challenging, then looked at the grade. Completed the climbs a bit pumped, but the moves were solid, and I didn't have to scrabble for clips. I'd far rather climb a route dynamically and cleanly than thug my way up something out of my 'grade', constantly sitting on the rope.
As for outdoors, I'll let you know mid-march, not had a chance to get outside yet!
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