This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
The weekend of the 15th and 16th of January saw the British Bouldering Championships take place at the Outdoors Show in London.
The top six results from each category are listed here.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59859
In reply to UKC News: Shocking atmosphere at this competition, I think the 3 people surrounding me, as well as a couple of scattered people throughout the crowd were the only ones shouting encouragement.... The commentator did nothing about this, merely giving facts about peoples favourite climbing areas, food and animals. Plus the music was terrible, acoustic ballads played etc. It didn't help that the people at the front were made to sit down, getting a bad view in the process, despite waiting there for over an hour to get the best view.... When has this happened before? When would this happen at any other sporting event? I know some of the competitors were a bit annoyed with the cringe worthy atmosphere. With regards to the setting, I think the route setters did remarkably well given the wall and time they had to work with - at least they managed to separate the groups. I think the BMC has to seriously think about what went wrong in that final.... The qualification worked well, although group B should have been in isolation. Rant over, sorry.
In reply to NJBrown:
We attended on Sunday with 4 of our junior squad and everything ran well and smoothly. The wall was fine and the routes worked well to split the finalist, with the crowd and commentary creating a good atmosphere for the climbers.
The only worrying aspect was the time it took to get medical assistance to the lad who hurt his arm/wrist.
Overall it seemed a job well done by everyone on Sunday - though I cannot comment on Saturday at all.
We attended on Sunday with 4 of our junior squad and everything ran well and smoothly. The wall was fine and the routes worked well to split the finalist, with the crowd and commentary creating a good atmosphere for the climbers.
The only worrying aspect was the time it took to get medical assistance to the lad who hurt his arm/wrist.
Overall it seemed a job well done by everyone on Sunday - though I cannot comment on Saturday at all.
In reply to NJBrown:
That's a shame, but hardly suprising given the 'none event' that is the Outdoors Show thesedays. It was brilliant in 2006 when they had the World Cup at the NEC and Mark Croxall won. But the Outdoors Show has shrunk massively since then.
That's a shame, but hardly suprising given the 'none event' that is the Outdoors Show thesedays. It was brilliant in 2006 when they had the World Cup at the NEC and Mark Croxall won. But the Outdoors Show has shrunk massively since then.
In reply to UKC News: i agree with the lack of atmosphere on saturday, there was so much noise and crowd encouragement for the bmxers nearby but seemingly none for the climbers. Maybe a separate climbing show would be better in another venue, the outdoor show area was tiny compared to the boats and bikes. Bit of a let down im afraid. However the DMM stall was like a sweet shop, i couldnt resist spending.....
Well done to all the climbers, hope your next competition has more ambience.
Well done to all the climbers, hope your next competition has more ambience.
In reply to NJBrown:
>I think the 3 people surrounding me, as well as a couple of scattered people throughout the crowd were the only ones shouting encouragement....
You must have been sitting next to us, at the right hand end then.
The atmosphere was a bit quiet a lot of the time, but there were plenty of people cheering them on now and then - not sure you can blame the organisers for the crowd not being vocal though?
As for having to sit down at the front - why the heck not? I could see fine - once all the people at the rail blocking everyone elses view had sat down. And we didn't have to wait for an hour either.
It would have been better if there were tiered seating, but until people are willing to pay a lot of money to go to these events and spectate that just aint going to happen, is it?
When you say "what went wrong in the final" are you referring to the commentator implying that a competitor had toppped out, arguably causing them to stop, when they hadn't? Or do you mean the lack of vocal support, poor music and making people sit down so others could see?
Si
>I think the 3 people surrounding me, as well as a couple of scattered people throughout the crowd were the only ones shouting encouragement....
You must have been sitting next to us, at the right hand end then.
The atmosphere was a bit quiet a lot of the time, but there were plenty of people cheering them on now and then - not sure you can blame the organisers for the crowd not being vocal though?
As for having to sit down at the front - why the heck not? I could see fine - once all the people at the rail blocking everyone elses view had sat down. And we didn't have to wait for an hour either.
It would have been better if there were tiered seating, but until people are willing to pay a lot of money to go to these events and spectate that just aint going to happen, is it?
When you say "what went wrong in the final" are you referring to the commentator implying that a competitor had toppped out, arguably causing them to stop, when they hadn't? Or do you mean the lack of vocal support, poor music and making people sit down so others could see?
Si
In reply to NJBrown:
True enough, there wasn't a lot of encouragement going on from the audience at the beginning, but it got a bit better through problems 3 and 4.
I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.
Although the 2/3 boys that were trying very hard to be encouraging should be applauded for not letting up for well over an hour, I do wish they'd stop shouting their catch phrases ("DROP THE HAMMER") every 3 minutes. It got a tad annoying and no one knew what on earth they were on about.
Having not been to a live comp like this before, I'm confused about the grading of the routes. Should they have been increasing in difficulty? Mens' route 4 seems to be a bit easy, and none of them completed number 2 (or was it 3)?
True enough, there wasn't a lot of encouragement going on from the audience at the beginning, but it got a bit better through problems 3 and 4.
I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.
Although the 2/3 boys that were trying very hard to be encouraging should be applauded for not letting up for well over an hour, I do wish they'd stop shouting their catch phrases ("DROP THE HAMMER") every 3 minutes. It got a tad annoying and no one knew what on earth they were on about.
Having not been to a live comp like this before, I'm confused about the grading of the routes. Should they have been increasing in difficulty? Mens' route 4 seems to be a bit easy, and none of them completed number 2 (or was it 3)?
In reply to ChadTheInhaler:
This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger
> (In reply to UKC News) i agree with the lack of atmosphere on saturday, there was so much noise and crowd encouragement for the bmxers nearby but seemingly none for the climbers.
This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger
In reply to ben.davies:
This ALSO echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger (Natalija Gros did exactly this - smiling though! - struggling on the final problem, was getting no crowd support probably because she wasn't a contender for the podium but was just the last one in the running order)
>
>
> I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.
>
> I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.
This ALSO echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger (Natalija Gros did exactly this - smiling though! - struggling on the final problem, was getting no crowd support probably because she wasn't a contender for the podium but was just the last one in the running order)
In reply to UKC News: 'The atmosphere was a bit quiet a lot of the time, but there were plenty of people cheering them on now and then - not sure you can blame the organisers for the crowd not being vocal though?'
- I agree you can't completely blame the organisers for this, but a lot more could have been done to help the situation, for example, not once did the commentator say something along the lines of 'Come on give them some support!' Also, as there were a lot of people watching who didn't know what was going on, more should have been explained, such as making more of a deal out of the fact that Ned had to flash the last problem to win the competition - that should be enough to get the crowd going, instead it was a bit of an anti-climax.
'As for having to sit down at the front - why the heck not? I could see fine - once all the people at the rail blocking everyone elses view had sat down. And we didn't have to wait for an hour either.'
- When everyone stood at the end, I don't remember there being an issue with people being able to see. A lot of people couldn't see through the railings unfortunately and would have been far more comfortable standing up. Standing has never been an issue in previous BBC's or World Cups, so I don't see why everyone was made to sit down.
'When you say "what went wrong in the final" are you referring to the commentator implying that a competitor had toppped out, arguably causing them to stop, when they hadn't? Or do you mean the lack of vocal support, poor music and making people sit down so others could see?'
- All of the above
'I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.'
- That was Liam Halsey - legend
'This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger'
- Same commentator
- I agree you can't completely blame the organisers for this, but a lot more could have been done to help the situation, for example, not once did the commentator say something along the lines of 'Come on give them some support!' Also, as there were a lot of people watching who didn't know what was going on, more should have been explained, such as making more of a deal out of the fact that Ned had to flash the last problem to win the competition - that should be enough to get the crowd going, instead it was a bit of an anti-climax.
'As for having to sit down at the front - why the heck not? I could see fine - once all the people at the rail blocking everyone elses view had sat down. And we didn't have to wait for an hour either.'
- When everyone stood at the end, I don't remember there being an issue with people being able to see. A lot of people couldn't see through the railings unfortunately and would have been far more comfortable standing up. Standing has never been an issue in previous BBC's or World Cups, so I don't see why everyone was made to sit down.
'When you say "what went wrong in the final" are you referring to the commentator implying that a competitor had toppped out, arguably causing them to stop, when they hadn't? Or do you mean the lack of vocal support, poor music and making people sit down so others could see?'
- All of the above
'I think Jon Partridge (I think?) made a point at one stage by waving his arms up and down, asking for some support.'
- That was Liam Halsey - legend
'This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger'
- Same commentator
In reply to Blue Straggler: I am pretty sure that you were at a different Cliffhanger to me then
In reply to Blue Straggler: competitors waving their hands up and down happens at every Boulder World Cup that I have been to (and I have been to a few), it is nothing to do with lack of crowd noise, its about ramping up the noise from whatever to whatever +25%
In reply to UKC News:
Did the Leah get her hair dyed mid-comp ? She seems to have gone from blond to red...
Missed cliffhanger last year but the atmosphere at the previous 2 events was excellant
Did the Leah get her hair dyed mid-comp ? She seems to have gone from blond to red...
Missed cliffhanger last year but the atmosphere at the previous 2 events was excellant
In reply to Chris the Tall:
It says 2010 in that caption by the way.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Did the Leah get her hair dyed mid-comp ? She seems to have gone from blond to red...
>
> Did the Leah get her hair dyed mid-comp ? She seems to have gone from blond to red...
>
It says 2010 in that caption by the way.
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
Graeme - apologies for my post looking critical. I thought the final last year was very good but the crowd WAS quite muted (there was applause on most of the top-outs, but it was all very "reserved"), this was commented upon in a thread at the time and someone compared it to the crowd at the MTB tricks/stunts demo area that was going on nearby, and that's the comparison _I_ was making there (i.e. bikes vs climbing at the Outdoors show and at Cliffhanger)
Ian Smith posted on that other Cliffhanger thread agreeing that his commentary was limited by the ruling that he was unable to "give anything anyway" to other competitors by really describing what was happening.
I didn't mean to criticise bouldering comps or their organisers. I wasn't at the Outdoors Show this year.
Graeme - apologies for my post looking critical. I thought the final last year was very good but the crowd WAS quite muted (there was applause on most of the top-outs, but it was all very "reserved"), this was commented upon in a thread at the time and someone compared it to the crowd at the MTB tricks/stunts demo area that was going on nearby, and that's the comparison _I_ was making there (i.e. bikes vs climbing at the Outdoors show and at Cliffhanger)
Ian Smith posted on that other Cliffhanger thread agreeing that his commentary was limited by the ruling that he was unable to "give anything anyway" to other competitors by really describing what was happening.
I didn't mean to criticise bouldering comps or their organisers. I wasn't at the Outdoors Show this year.
In reply to Blue Straggler:
>This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger
How do you work that one out ?
The BMX display was at the opposite end of the park from the comp at Cliffhanger - and they timed the displays not to clash with the climbing.
> (In reply to UKC News) i agree with the lack of atmosphere on saturday, there was so much noise and crowd encouragement for the bmxers nearby but seemingly none for the climbers.
>This echoes the experience during the bouldering final at Cliffhanger
How do you work that one out ?
The BMX display was at the opposite end of the park from the comp at Cliffhanger - and they timed the displays not to clash with the climbing.
In reply to Simon:
I was being a bit more loose with my comparison. MTB, not BMX. Same park, not adjacent stalls. Same day, not same minute.
As for the wider picture, see my reply to Graeme Alderson.
I was being a bit more loose with my comparison. MTB, not BMX. Same park, not adjacent stalls. Same day, not same minute.
As for the wider picture, see my reply to Graeme Alderson.
In reply to UKC News: Graeme, I totally agree, Cliffhanger is an amazing event, always superb and the World Cup had an enormous crowd. I think the only downside to the BBCs last year was that FIFA arrogantly thought they could hold a football match at the same time as the comp.
In reply to NJBrown:
I may be slightly misremembering Cliffhanger. There was a decent crowd but given that it was an international, I had expected more people and more enthusiasm. However I have not attended many comps (well, just Cliffhanger 2010 and Skymasters 2009) so my expectations are based upon a foundation of my own imagination. I'm also keenly aware that rousing applause and cheering across 5x 4 (or was it 5?) mens' problems plus 5x 4 (or was it 5?) womens' problems could be a bit contrived.
The only other live sports event I've attended has been Wimbledon so maybe my expectations were unrealistic!
I may be slightly misremembering Cliffhanger. There was a decent crowd but given that it was an international, I had expected more people and more enthusiasm. However I have not attended many comps (well, just Cliffhanger 2010 and Skymasters 2009) so my expectations are based upon a foundation of my own imagination. I'm also keenly aware that rousing applause and cheering across 5x 4 (or was it 5?) mens' problems plus 5x 4 (or was it 5?) womens' problems could be a bit contrived.
The only other live sports event I've attended has been Wimbledon so maybe my expectations were unrealistic!
In reply to Blue Straggler: You should go to CWIF this year - that's a competition...
In reply to UKC News: I have to agree with nick, I think the wall was very reserved and needed to be bigger, but the setters did a very good job with what they had. I was told they had a problem with space but in my opinion they shouldn't have held it at the show than. and if it's a question of money did they not notice the huge 20 meter almost blank climbing wall that had probably 300 peoples undivided attention for hours,which I'm sure lots of companies (not even climbing companies) would have payed to fill with advertising logos.
The atmosphere at the final was painful and I'm 90% certain this could have been fixed with good music and a better comentator which I'm sure wouldn't be that hard to sort out.
Also sitting on the floor for the whole final was very uncomfortable and that needs to e adressed.
Group B definatley shouldn't have been allowed to watch group A in the mens qualifiers, this was very unfair on the first climbers. Iwas told it was partly an issue with time and not being able to over run becuase the organisers of the show would simply make the comp stop if it over run, again if this was the case they should hold the comp somewhere else, at the end of the day this is the British championships not just a small wall comp.
The atmosphere at the final was painful and I'm 90% certain this could have been fixed with good music and a better comentator which I'm sure wouldn't be that hard to sort out.
Also sitting on the floor for the whole final was very uncomfortable and that needs to e adressed.
Group B definatley shouldn't have been allowed to watch group A in the mens qualifiers, this was very unfair on the first climbers. Iwas told it was partly an issue with time and not being able to over run becuase the organisers of the show would simply make the comp stop if it over run, again if this was the case they should hold the comp somewhere else, at the end of the day this is the British championships not just a small wall comp.
In reply to everyone:
It's impossible to please everyone. However:
When everyone sat down then EVERYONE could see (including shorter people).
The routes were good.
The competitors had great attitudes and their climbing was awesome. THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT!
It's impossible to please everyone. However:
When everyone sat down then EVERYONE could see (including shorter people).
The routes were good.
The competitors had great attitudes and their climbing was awesome. THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT!
In reply to NJBrown:
commentator isn't allowed too say such things as this would negate climbers not being allowed to watch each other during finals. And he has to rely on the information the climbers provide in their profile questionnaires to try and make things interesting.
I can only comment on Sunday Juniors comp but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Lots of noise from family and friends throughout the final especially when climbers were the first to top a problem or make the move everyone before had fallen off. Some great climbing on show, and for the winners prize money instead of the usual chalk bags - result.
The bike show did seem to have a better PA than the climbing as you really couldn't hear it outwith the immediate area which I think contributed to delay in medical help arriving.
> - I agree you can't completely blame the organisers for this, but a lot more could have been done to help the situation, for example, not once did the commentator say something along the lines of 'Come on give them some support!' Also, as there were a lot of people watching who didn't know what was going on, more should have been explained, such as making more of a deal out of the fact that Ned had to flash the last problem to win the competition - that should be enough to get the crowd going, instead it was a bit of an anti-climax.
commentator isn't allowed too say such things as this would negate climbers not being allowed to watch each other during finals. And he has to rely on the information the climbers provide in their profile questionnaires to try and make things interesting.
I can only comment on Sunday Juniors comp but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Lots of noise from family and friends throughout the final especially when climbers were the first to top a problem or make the move everyone before had fallen off. Some great climbing on show, and for the winners prize money instead of the usual chalk bags - result.
The bike show did seem to have a better PA than the climbing as you really couldn't hear it outwith the immediate area which I think contributed to delay in medical help arriving.
In reply to UKC News: Why no pictures of the juniors. Surely you had someone there on the Sunday?
In reply to silverstone:
- It was the last climb, none of the other competitors were still climbing and Ned, plus everyone else knew the situation
> (In reply to NJBrown)
>
> [...]
>
> commentator isn't allowed too say such things as this would negate climbers not being allowed to watch each other during finals. And he has to rely on the information the climbers provide in their profile questionnaires to try and make things interesting.
>
> [...]
>
> commentator isn't allowed too say such things as this would negate climbers not being allowed to watch each other during finals. And he has to rely on the information the climbers provide in their profile questionnaires to try and make things interesting.
- It was the last climb, none of the other competitors were still climbing and Ned, plus everyone else knew the situation
In reply to silverstone:
I thought the commentator let a few things slip about how certain routes were being done. The one that comes to my mind is when Leah used a bolt hold as a mono because the reach to the top of the hold was too far. He spelt it out how she managed the move.
Didn't matter though, as Shauna (only person behind Leah) could do the move without using the mono.
I thought the commentator let a few things slip about how certain routes were being done. The one that comes to my mind is when Leah used a bolt hold as a mono because the reach to the top of the hold was too far. He spelt it out how she managed the move.
Didn't matter though, as Shauna (only person behind Leah) could do the move without using the mono.
In reply to silverstone: I don't see why the comentator can't say things about the comp, the finalists are all sitting together 10 feet from the wall, and there not stupid they all know exactly what's going on, who's flashed problems or dine them quickly. fair enough giving away beta is a no no but a for scores and who's in what place etc there is really no reason to not use that info the competetors already know it all.
And if all the comentator has to go on is those sheets, than it might be usefull to get someone who knows the scene and has been a competitor or knows alot about climbing.
And if all the comentator has to go on is those sheets, than it might be usefull to get someone who knows the scene and has been a competitor or knows alot about climbing.
In reply to UKC News:
I couldn't agree more with NJBrown, i feel the BMC needs to take a very close look at the decisions that were made surrounding the comp. I feel that there was massive potential with the space and time provided, with even a few small changes the event could have been even better and done a lot more to promote the sport and the competitive scene.
Possibly an open debate/suggestion session could be hosted for the BMC? I don't want to start a witch hunt, but could be good to use the possible large amount of knowledge and advice that could be generate by the climbing public?
I couldn't agree more with NJBrown, i feel the BMC needs to take a very close look at the decisions that were made surrounding the comp. I feel that there was massive potential with the space and time provided, with even a few small changes the event could have been even better and done a lot more to promote the sport and the competitive scene.
Possibly an open debate/suggestion session could be hosted for the BMC? I don't want to start a witch hunt, but could be good to use the possible large amount of knowledge and advice that could be generate by the climbing public?
In reply to UKC News:
I wasn't there but from the sounds of it the music annoyed people, this is understandable not just for the spectators but competitors also. When I did the Welsh climbing championships the music was sooooooo annoying, constant crap manufactured pop Justin bieber, Rihanna. It was really Bad to climb to and just made me feel agitated for the whole day, and to make it even worse they just played the same 10 songs over and over again constantly which was like torture.
I wasn't there but from the sounds of it the music annoyed people, this is understandable not just for the spectators but competitors also. When I did the Welsh climbing championships the music was sooooooo annoying, constant crap manufactured pop Justin bieber, Rihanna. It was really Bad to climb to and just made me feel agitated for the whole day, and to make it even worse they just played the same 10 songs over and over again constantly which was like torture.
In reply to UKC News: Sitting down was good. commentator had a nightmare. shauna coxsey was bloody good.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Hi Quarryboy
My name is simon and i run the Welsh Climbing Championships along side a colleague each year. The aim of the Event is to promote youth development in the area and to date has been very successful giving many young climbers in south wales the chance to compete in a fun, friendly enviroment.
We run this event in a entirely voluntary capacity, giving up alot of our own personal time, and in the two previous year our own cash (neither of us are rich we work in the climbing industry)we do this as we believe that it is making a difference in our region helping young climbers push on to great things - with Rhos Frugtniet competing in a world cup and many youngster pushing hard on her tails.
I am sorry that you felt agitated by the music on the day, which was a local Radio Station, and im sorry that it bothered you enougth to bring it up again on this forum. next year i will endevour to arrange for a Symphony Orchestra to play for your required taste?
if it was bothering that much why not mention to me or my colleague we would have tuned in to a more appropriate channel for you?
the day was well attended and I have had many emails reporting on having a great day from competitors and spectators alike so it does sadden me when I read a comment like yours on a national forum.
Hi Quarryboy
My name is simon and i run the Welsh Climbing Championships along side a colleague each year. The aim of the Event is to promote youth development in the area and to date has been very successful giving many young climbers in south wales the chance to compete in a fun, friendly enviroment.
We run this event in a entirely voluntary capacity, giving up alot of our own personal time, and in the two previous year our own cash (neither of us are rich we work in the climbing industry)we do this as we believe that it is making a difference in our region helping young climbers push on to great things - with Rhos Frugtniet competing in a world cup and many youngster pushing hard on her tails.
I am sorry that you felt agitated by the music on the day, which was a local Radio Station, and im sorry that it bothered you enougth to bring it up again on this forum. next year i will endevour to arrange for a Symphony Orchestra to play for your required taste?
if it was bothering that much why not mention to me or my colleague we would have tuned in to a more appropriate channel for you?
the day was well attended and I have had many emails reporting on having a great day from competitors and spectators alike so it does sadden me when I read a comment like yours on a national forum.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Just to add to Simon's comments. I belayed the competitors (probably belayed you if your profile is correct) all day and I couldn't have told what was playing from one minute to the next. I was concentrating on making sure you guys were safe. I think I pretty much talked to all the guys I belayed, can't remember any 'crap music' observations. If you need music to get psyched to climb, what do you do outside? Take a mobile disco?
Simon & Paul put so much of their own time, effort and cash into providing events for those around the South Wales area it really annoys me when I read asinine comments like yours.
Graham
Just to add to Simon's comments. I belayed the competitors (probably belayed you if your profile is correct) all day and I couldn't have told what was playing from one minute to the next. I was concentrating on making sure you guys were safe. I think I pretty much talked to all the guys I belayed, can't remember any 'crap music' observations. If you need music to get psyched to climb, what do you do outside? Take a mobile disco?
Simon & Paul put so much of their own time, effort and cash into providing events for those around the South Wales area it really annoys me when I read asinine comments like yours.
Graham
In reply to UKC News:
Anyone got anything to say about how the climbers performed? I will start you off!
Shaua Coxsey was in impeccable form crushing all the problems with ease to post the perfect score and steal the show as first place Senior Female...
Anyone got anything to say about how the climbers performed? I will start you off!
Shaua Coxsey was in impeccable form crushing all the problems with ease to post the perfect score and steal the show as first place Senior Female...
In reply to Steve Crowe: Shauna was brilliant, I thought the top 3 in men's all had a very good comp as well - Ned almost flashed every problem in the entire comp! Champion!!!!
In reply to ben.davies:
The commentator told the other competitors that a bolt hole was used as a mono and that gave them an advantage? Give them some credit for gods sake...
> (In reply to silverstone)
>
> I thought the commentator let a few things slip about how certain routes were being done. The one that comes to my mind is when Leah used a bolt hold as a mono because the reach to the top of the hold was too far. He spelt it out how she managed the move.
>
>
>
> I thought the commentator let a few things slip about how certain routes were being done. The one that comes to my mind is when Leah used a bolt hold as a mono because the reach to the top of the hold was too far. He spelt it out how she managed the move.
>
>
The commentator told the other competitors that a bolt hole was used as a mono and that gave them an advantage? Give them some credit for gods sake...
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Agreed Adam! Who got the fastest campus : P I know I didn't since I shaked out on every hold : P
Agreed Adam! Who got the fastest campus : P I know I didn't since I shaked out on every hold : P
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Thanks Adam, it was a good bit of fun and thanks to Gareth Parry two of our junior team are now going to Spain for some coaching.
and cheers Robbie for not crushing my time (I owe you one)
happy climbing
Simon
Thanks Adam, it was a good bit of fun and thanks to Gareth Parry two of our junior team are now going to Spain for some coaching.
and cheers Robbie for not crushing my time (I owe you one)
happy climbing
Simon
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
haha.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
>
> Agreed Adam! Who got the fastest campus
>
> Agreed Adam! Who got the fastest campus
haha.
In reply to Robbie_Phillips: The fastest times on the 2011 Skymasters course were Simon Rawlinson 43.28 seconds and Rhoslyn Frugtniet - minor 68.12 seconds.
Other climbers who completed the route in less than one minute were:
Jack Griffiths
Craig Bailey
Brendan Gallagher - minor
Luke Tilley - minor
Alex Pickard
Great effort!
Other climbers who completed the route in less than one minute were:
Jack Griffiths
Craig Bailey
Brendan Gallagher - minor
Luke Tilley - minor
Alex Pickard
Great effort!
In reply to simon rawlinson:
gramee:
Sorry if I offended you. Please don't take this as a personal insult. I can understand that my taste in music is very different to that of many other people and I'm sure if that if I chose what was played it would have annoyed others as well, I can understand that the music you picked is popular with the consumer and therefore was an obvious choice.
The music was my only nag, the wall and route setting was outstanding and overall a superb event. I have much respect for people like you who continue to insure that these events run year after year.
all the best
Quarryboy
gramee:
Sorry if I offended you. Please don't take this as a personal insult. I can understand that my taste in music is very different to that of many other people and I'm sure if that if I chose what was played it would have annoyed others as well, I can understand that the music you picked is popular with the consumer and therefore was an obvious choice.
The music was my only nag, the wall and route setting was outstanding and overall a superb event. I have much respect for people like you who continue to insure that these events run year after year.
all the best
Quarryboy
In reply to Quarryboy:
In the early days of climbing World Cups you used to be able to bring your own cassette (anyone remember those?) with music you wanted to be played while you climbed. Predictably this didn't last long, and was replaced in European comps by wall to wall Enya, punctuated by occasional bursts of Tina Turner (Simply the Best) whenever someone topped out. Hardly ever happened to me though
In the early days of climbing World Cups you used to be able to bring your own cassette (anyone remember those?) with music you wanted to be played while you climbed. Predictably this didn't last long, and was replaced in European comps by wall to wall Enya, punctuated by occasional bursts of Tina Turner (Simply the Best) whenever someone topped out. Hardly ever happened to me though
In reply to john arran: There was 2 tunes that were plyaed at loads of comps:
Simply the Best - as you say you never had this played for you very often
and
Another One Bites the Dust - I guess this one was played quite regularly after you climbed
Fliss spoilt it all by playing Enya and climbing so slowly that we had to listen to the whole track. The practise stopped soon after.
Adam Ondra would be good, he climbs so fast you might not even get a whole Undertones single (both sides) before he topped out.
Simply the Best - as you say you never had this played for you very often
and
Another One Bites the Dust - I guess this one was played quite regularly after you climbed
Fliss spoilt it all by playing Enya and climbing so slowly that we had to listen to the whole track. The practise stopped soon after.
Adam Ondra would be good, he climbs so fast you might not even get a whole Undertones single (both sides) before he topped out.
In reply to St0neMonkey:
I bow to those with greater experience of bouldering comps as I was only quoting what I had been previously told. At the World Youth Lead Championships last year Robbie Phillips partnered Ian to great effect so I don't see why the BMC wouldn't welcome other volunteers to the commentators table that could fill in some background on the competitors. As you say adds to the interest.
> And if all the comentator has to go on is those sheets, than it might be usefull to get someone who knows the scene and has been a competitor or knows alot about climbing.
I bow to those with greater experience of bouldering comps as I was only quoting what I had been previously told. At the World Youth Lead Championships last year Robbie Phillips partnered Ian to great effect so I don't see why the BMC wouldn't welcome other volunteers to the commentators table that could fill in some background on the competitors. As you say adds to the interest.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Hey Quarryboy no worries, the truth of the matter was that i did not chose any music (it was a local radio station) and i certainly hadnt given it a lot of thought after 3 days of setting etc...
The funny point to this is that if i had have thought about music it probably would have been a lot worse than what you got and since you mentioned it the other day i have asked a few competitors from the day and they all agreed that the music was not brilliant. i will in future give it a lot more thought than just pressing the on button.
it was a great day thanks to the many volanteers that help out and make it possible and also because so many people make the effort to get involved and take part. i belive this year was a improvment on last and we shall hopefull improve agian next year (music is going on the list)
any way
happy climbing
Simon
Hey Quarryboy no worries, the truth of the matter was that i did not chose any music (it was a local radio station) and i certainly hadnt given it a lot of thought after 3 days of setting etc...
The funny point to this is that if i had have thought about music it probably would have been a lot worse than what you got and since you mentioned it the other day i have asked a few competitors from the day and they all agreed that the music was not brilliant. i will in future give it a lot more thought than just pressing the on button.
it was a great day thanks to the many volanteers that help out and make it possible and also because so many people make the effort to get involved and take part. i belive this year was a improvment on last and we shall hopefull improve agian next year (music is going on the list)
any way
happy climbing
Simon
In reply to silverstone:
I'm sure they would welcome any volunteers - but it ain't an easy job!! Robbie (and the other american guy) did a great job at ratho, but Robbie was competing, and Audrey Seguy (who has commentated before) was judging!
I'm sure they would welcome any volunteers - but it ain't an easy job!! Robbie (and the other american guy) did a great job at ratho, but Robbie was competing, and Audrey Seguy (who has commentated before) was judging!
In reply to Steve Crowe:
I watched the finals on saturday.
I realise the comp was fair and fine with regards to setting, but I couldn't help think the ladies problems were more whole body/volumes/ features than the mens. Anyone else think this too? Was there a reason or was it just the luck of the draw (or me?)?
Well done all.
K
I watched the finals on saturday.
I realise the comp was fair and fine with regards to setting, but I couldn't help think the ladies problems were more whole body/volumes/ features than the mens. Anyone else think this too? Was there a reason or was it just the luck of the draw (or me?)?
Well done all.
K
In reply to Kevster:
I wasn't at this comp so I can't comment on the routes you talk about, but funnily enough when I was at Cliffhanger last year, some of the womens' problems in the final looked harder than the mens', to me as an unknowledgeable punter. I don't doubt that the mens' problems were in fact harder, but the nature of the womens' problems was perhaps more subtle/delicate - it was simple to see what the men had to do, "just" a case of being able to do it, but the womens' problems had more potential wrong approaches. There may well be a reason for this.
I wasn't at this comp so I can't comment on the routes you talk about, but funnily enough when I was at Cliffhanger last year, some of the womens' problems in the final looked harder than the mens', to me as an unknowledgeable punter. I don't doubt that the mens' problems were in fact harder, but the nature of the womens' problems was perhaps more subtle/delicate - it was simple to see what the men had to do, "just" a case of being able to do it, but the womens' problems had more potential wrong approaches. There may well be a reason for this.
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Yeah, I know what you mean, harder to read in some ways. I also thought that because of the difference, the ladies was more interesting. This could also be because the ladies have less strength (generalisation) than the lads so visibly use a larger arsenal of techniques/intermediate moves. Would have liked to see the lads do the ladies problems too. then the differences would be plain to see, rather than simply hypothesising about it myself.
K
Yeah, I know what you mean, harder to read in some ways. I also thought that because of the difference, the ladies was more interesting. This could also be because the ladies have less strength (generalisation) than the lads so visibly use a larger arsenal of techniques/intermediate moves. Would have liked to see the lads do the ladies problems too. then the differences would be plain to see, rather than simply hypothesising about it myself.
K
Some observations I'd like to make too...
Viewing was an issue. Not just for the bouldering wall - the BMX/trials display next to Skymasters had the same problem. Absolutely no viewing area other than around the fencing.
Sitting down to watch the BBCs was fine, but not comfortable. At first when everyone was standing it was impossible to see the whole wall, especially for vaguely short people. I was with my mum (a short non-climber but interested) who was going to walk away when everyone was standing, but once seated could see and loved it.
Even once the crowd was seated/standing, it blocked all the walkways between the stalls - were the organisers utterly unaware that people wanted to watch? Or even how many people were going to watch.
I can't believe ExCEL doesn't have portable tiered seating - was this a budgetary consideration?
I can see the appeal of hosting it at a climbing-specific show next time, but I think this would be a shame as it got a lot of passing interest. So maybe just move the Outdoor Show to a seperate venue, where they have the space to themselves so can afford to put some seating in.
~~
The comp itself was awesome I thought. I was at the right end, giving it some whoops, we seemed to be the loud end, but it was pretty quiet...
The commentating rules seem a little odd, and the guy wasn't perhaps the greatest commentator. Perhaps some of the reason for the quiet was the amount of non-climbers watching?
I thought it was slightly odd havng men and ladies simaltaneously as sometimes a flash went un-noticed as the crowd was watching a 4th attempt, but then I couldn't have sat on the floor much longer.
I didn't really notice the music, other than it was possibly over-loud and not really "psyche-up" music.
I too thought the ladies problems were more interesting, perhaps eeking towards the women=technique, men=power cliche a little too much though. Would've been interesting to see the guys on the 2nd women's problem.
The wall itself was pretty tame - no crazy roof sections, or aretes, but the problems were ace.
Would it be possible (was it possible? I left soon after) to leave the routes up so punters could have a supervised go? Not that I could touch them, but would've liked to try, and likewise to give non-climbers an idea of just how hard it is!
Anyway - top marks to all those involved in the comps, slightly fewer marks to those involved in the logistics of it.
Will definitely like to see another BBC (or another bouldering comp) but would hesitate if it was at the Outdoor Show. If you'd got the cheap after 4pm ticket, you couldn't have gotten near the comp, and £13/17 is a lot to pay just to get a bit of hard floor to sit on...
Viewing was an issue. Not just for the bouldering wall - the BMX/trials display next to Skymasters had the same problem. Absolutely no viewing area other than around the fencing.
Sitting down to watch the BBCs was fine, but not comfortable. At first when everyone was standing it was impossible to see the whole wall, especially for vaguely short people. I was with my mum (a short non-climber but interested) who was going to walk away when everyone was standing, but once seated could see and loved it.
Even once the crowd was seated/standing, it blocked all the walkways between the stalls - were the organisers utterly unaware that people wanted to watch? Or even how many people were going to watch.
I can't believe ExCEL doesn't have portable tiered seating - was this a budgetary consideration?
I can see the appeal of hosting it at a climbing-specific show next time, but I think this would be a shame as it got a lot of passing interest. So maybe just move the Outdoor Show to a seperate venue, where they have the space to themselves so can afford to put some seating in.
~~
The comp itself was awesome I thought. I was at the right end, giving it some whoops, we seemed to be the loud end, but it was pretty quiet...
The commentating rules seem a little odd, and the guy wasn't perhaps the greatest commentator. Perhaps some of the reason for the quiet was the amount of non-climbers watching?
I thought it was slightly odd havng men and ladies simaltaneously as sometimes a flash went un-noticed as the crowd was watching a 4th attempt, but then I couldn't have sat on the floor much longer.
I didn't really notice the music, other than it was possibly over-loud and not really "psyche-up" music.
I too thought the ladies problems were more interesting, perhaps eeking towards the women=technique, men=power cliche a little too much though. Would've been interesting to see the guys on the 2nd women's problem.
The wall itself was pretty tame - no crazy roof sections, or aretes, but the problems were ace.
Would it be possible (was it possible? I left soon after) to leave the routes up so punters could have a supervised go? Not that I could touch them, but would've liked to try, and likewise to give non-climbers an idea of just how hard it is!
Anyway - top marks to all those involved in the comps, slightly fewer marks to those involved in the logistics of it.
Will definitely like to see another BBC (or another bouldering comp) but would hesitate if it was at the Outdoor Show. If you'd got the cheap after 4pm ticket, you couldn't have gotten near the comp, and £13/17 is a lot to pay just to get a bit of hard floor to sit on...
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...